New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

Funny you mentioned pfSense, this is the Big project I mentioned earlier. I love my new pfSense Router. So, So many options now. Got an Asus AC3200 for sale :) Also went with TP-Link for managed switches (My network is so much faster now), only 2 more left to install :), Got a 24 port for my Main off the pfSense Box, one 16 port of my Office and four 8 ports for the rooms. My pfSense box is running on a fanless Qotom i5 Mini PC. Check out Qotom. All of this thanks to @pete_c (Thanks Pete, I am now broke :)), no actually very reasonably priced for a home Enterprise Network...You don't have to go 4 port like I did, I plan to have our home Website hang off of one of the extra OPT ports.
List of my Switches:

T1600G-28TS 24 port
TL-SG1016PE 16 port
TL-SG108PE 8 port (Very popular switch for VLANs)

I did buy some managed TP-Link Access Points too:

EAP245
EAP225

You can have 16 SSIDs on each of these, 8 per band. So far I like their Guest SSID, quick way to separate traffic, they also support VLAN. So far the EAP245 that is installed has a very good range. I have not tested it fully though. If these do not work out I can always go with a better AP.

I have to add TP-Link support, both phone and Chat has been outstanding. I have asked many questions during my install.

Doorbell 101 should help you with some of your config questions.

I have not decided if I am going to do pfsense or just get a Ubiquity Edgerouter PoE yet. The Edgerouter would allow me to ditch the Google Fiber Network Box so that’s a plus. I already have a TP-Link TL-SG1016PE 16-Port Gigabit PoE+ Managed Switch.
 
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Incidentally, I saw a wiki somewhere (can't find it now) about collected links for DB1 (and its variants). Thought I'd add some more info:

a) If you want to connect this camera to ZoneMinder, the settings are:
a.1) General->Source Type -> FFMPEG
a.2) Source->SourcePath -> rtsp:/admin:<VERIFICATION_CODE>@<IP>:554/Streaming/Channels/101 (note: two slashes after rtsp:, one keeps getting removed, even if I put it in a code block)
a.3) Source->ColorPath -> 32 bit color
a.4) Source->Capture Resolution -> 1536x2048

This is for the primary stream


b) If you don't want your NVR to take the load of processing the regular FPS of the doorbell (I think its 15, I forgot), the best option is to reduce the FPS in-camera (not in the NVR) to avoid audio/video sync/delay issues. To do this, I had to follow instructions posted here. I use a mac, but this software needs windows. They don't have a windows port of this software, so had to do it in a VM. I'm not sure if the other apps like IVMS-4200 also do this - I haven't started looking into the common tools between all these cameras. The EZViz windows app also allows you to tweak brightness/color etc - something that really should have been part of the app.

Finally, my ultimate goal is to discover some sort of an API that I can latch on to when the bell rings (like this hook - I worked with the DBell folks to get this added in) so I can trigger an Alexa announcement. Their skill today only shows video.
 
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BTW those folks using MACs only in their homes you can install Oracle Virtual Box and a Windows XP, W7, W8, W8.1 or W10 virtual box on the MAC.

I did this a couple of years ago helping an automation peer connect to their security panel.

I use an Android Virtual box on my Linux laptop or Windows laptop. I run MS Office Visio on my Linux laptop using PlayOnLinux and it runs pretty good for my needs.

Today you run many Windows only programs on PlayOnLinux (a concocation of Wine stuff).
 
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@David L thank you so much for the follow up. So it looks like based on the diagram, a single power kit can handle both chimes! Unfortunately, I don't think I can do that wiring as all the wiring runs inside our walls so I can't really rewire them to connect F to T between the chimes as shown. In my case, I have 3 sets of wires going out from my transformer, first one to Chime 1, second to Chime 2 and the third to the Doorbell.

The good news is so far the system with 1 chime on, fuse and power kit installed and my 30VA 34V trans, the system is working well and no buzz yet. I'm fine with not enabling chime 2 (it's in the basement and it doesn't matter as much if it doesn't ring). One of the side effects of the 24V 30VA trans is the first floor bell seems to be ringing louder, so we can hear it from everywhere :-D

Do you work for EZViz or Hikvision? I've noticed you mentioned "our bell" several times - not sure if you mean the bell you've installed, or the whether that means you work for Hik/EZViz?
So you could wire the second one, you would have to identify each wire then where they all come together wirenut them accordingly. Most two wire cable have a strip on one cable jacket that you could follow, but if yours does not you could use a Ohm meter.

The reason your Chime is louder is you went from 16v to 24v. If you would of bought a 16v 30va instead of a 24v 30va your Chime would not be louder :) By increasing the voltage the hammer hits harder. As you get older you will appreciate the increased loudness :)

:) No I don't work for either, funny but I refer to OUR since we seem to all be part of a DB family :) Think my wife taught me to use "OUR" a lot in my statements, lol.

Glad you are a happy Hik DB owner...
 
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I have not decided if I am going to do pfsense or just get a Ubiquity Edgerouter PoE yet. The Edgerouter would allow me to ditch the Google Fiber Network Box so that’s a plus. I already have a TP-Link TL-SG1016PE 16-Port Gigabit PoE+ Managed Switch.
So this guy has a pfSense box using a POE Injector to the pfSense box, eliminating Google Fiber box. Not putting Ubiquiti down but pfSense is Free. Just run it from an unused PC with two NICs. You could always try this first and always go the Ubiquiti route later.


1586552214563.png
 
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As recommended by VOXX Support I've requested a replacement unit. I got it today from Amazon today.

The new HSDB2A doesn't work differently from the previous one. I tried the RCA Security app at first followed by the Guarding Vision App.

The installation process fails with the error text "Configuration Failed" in the RCA Security App a minute after that the HSDB2A has spoken "Platform registration successful" and the LED ring has turned solid blue.

After the failed setup, I have checked that there is no connectivity problem between my Android phone and the HSDB2A by pinging it and also by opening the RTSP stream in VLC rtsp:/admin@XXXXXX@192.168.1.39:554/ (using my Android phone). So no problem with that.

I still don't know what firmware the HSDB2A ships with but there is a stamp on the product box: SD C-10285 # 194211086 v1.1 (Maybe you guys with working HSDB2A units can check your boxes in case you've kept them?)

Cheers!

EDIT:
I've contacted VOXX support to follow up on the support case. I noticed that the status of the support ticket has been changed to "closed".


@ Buttan Butt,

I knew that this is an old post, but I have a HSDB2A with the same stamp on the product box: SD C-10285 # 194211086 v1.1. that I plan to install this week.
Is this the RCA firmware version (190124 (2019-01-30) ) that comes with the camera and supports RTSP streaming?

Have you tried to update the RCA firmware from 190124 (2019-01-30) to other Brand's firmwares listed in 101?
 
I did go with the Nelly’s version. Unfortunately the Skybell is the only db cam compatible with Honeywell Total Connect 2.0. Ideally I’d like to get the Nelly’s off the cloud using my Synology and/or incorporate it into Hubitat Elevation Hub. I was looking at the Batch Configuration tool but unfortunately I’m a Mac user (I didn’t see any Mac version).
After looking again I see a MAC version of the Batch Config Tool, can you please verify this Batch Config program works, it will be very similar to the iVMS-4200. Also here is another link: Batch Configuration. If they are the same please let us know.

I do not have a MAC but would like to include the links in the 101 for future MAC users.

Thank You...
 
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@ Buttan Butt,

I knew that this is an old post, but I have a HSDB2A with the same stamp on the product box: SD C-10285 # 194211086 v1.1. that I plan to install this week.
Is this the RCA firmware version (190124 (2019-01-30) ) that comes with the camera and supports RTSP streaming?

Have you tried to update the RCA firmware from 190124 (2019-01-30) to other Brand's firmwares listed in 101?
Here is a list of other RCA owners who have successfully upgraded to other brand firmware that you might want to reach out to, they may have your same stamp on their box.
 
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Yup, I did read going to 24V might have that effect :-) Hopefully the Mjölnir can take the hit.
Thanks for the clarification as well - our always sounds better and wives are thusly always right :)

The reason your Chime is louder is you went from 16v to 24v. If you would of bought a 16v 30va instead of a 24v 30va your Chime would not be louder :) By increasing the voltage the hammer hits harder. As you get older you will appreciate the increased loudness :)

:) No I don't work for either, funny but I refer to OUR since we seem to all be part of a DB family :) Think my wife taught me to use "OUR" a lot in my statements, lol.

Glad you are a happy Hik DB owner...
 
Well, Well. I spoke too soon.
Tranformer busted again. This is the 3rd.

Interestingly, it happened just when we put on our basement TV - my wife said she heard a single "ding" on the first level chime and my EZViz blinked out. The TV, plugs and doorbell are on the same breaker. Breaker is fine, TV, plugs are fine.

At this stage, I'm thinking this is a faulty DB1. Plan to replace it.
 
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Oh good news. Transformer is fine. The chime busted. I guess the hammer hit too hard - that black plastic it hits - that broke right off and I could smell the burn inside. I've now disabled both chimes and my doorbell works again. Obviously, the "power kit" did not dampen much. So what next? Use the 10ohm 1/2 W resistors? I need a chime that won't burn out with 24V. And that power kit seems umm, useless?

Well, Well. I spoke too soon.
Tranformer busted again. This is the 3rd.

Interestingly, it happened just when we put on our basement TV - my wife said she heard a single "ding" on the first level chime and my EZViz blinked out. The TV, plugs and doorbell are on the same breaker. Breaker is fine, TV, plugs are fine.

At this stage, I'm thinking this is a faulty DB1. Plan to replace it.
 
Oh good news. Transformer is fine. The chime busted. I guess the hammer hit too hard - that black plastic it hits - that broke right off and I could smell the burn inside. I've now disabled both chimes and my doorbell works again. Obviously, the "power kit" did not dampen much. So what next? Use the 10ohm 1/2 W resistors? I need a chime that won't burn out with 24V. And that power kit seems umm, useless?
Ah heck. Now transformer blown. No power. How does a doorbell blow out a 24V 30VA transformer? It came on for all of 5 mins and then out.
 
Oh good news. Transformer is fine. The chime busted. I guess the hammer hit too hard - that black plastic it hits - that broke right off and I could smell the burn inside. I've now disabled both chimes and my doorbell works again. Obviously, the "power kit" did not dampen much. So what next? Use the 10ohm 1/2 W resistors? I need a chime that won't burn out with 24V. And that power kit seems umm, useless?
Wow first I read/heard of this. I only read where if you go from 16v to 24v the Chime gets louder. Did your fuse survive? Glad it just threw a breaker and nothing else got damaged.

This is from EZVIZ site, I would start your Chime search here:
1586638427028.png

I am going to leave your resistor/power kit questions to the experts here.

Sorry you are going through this...
 
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Sounds like maybe you have a short in your wiring circuit causing an excessive power draw I doubt the DB is the cause

Interestingly I never had this issue with the DBell door bell. It only started happening with this EZVIZ. I've already spent upwards of $300 with electricians on this. Yeesh!
 
Interestingly I never had this issue with the DBell door bell. It only started happening with this EZVIZ. I've already spent upwards of $300 with electricians on this. Yeesh!
Check that you don't have a pinched wire behind your DB where the wiring could be making contact with aluminum siding Etc.
 
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Best may be to disconnect all wires.

1 - doorbell
2 - chime
3 - transformer

Use a VOM to check each wire.
 
Interestingly I never had this issue with the DBell door bell. It only started happening with this EZVIZ. I've already spent upwards of $300 with electricians on this. Yeesh!
That stinks. Do you think there is something on the circuit breaker that is drawing a large load? I remember once I had to unplug everything off one breaker and found a bad power supply on a PC that caused our problems. It was weird, just random, took awhile to determine the cause. It did not damage the PC just would throw breaker. Difference is, the PC power supply has a lot more wattage.
 
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Here is a list of other RCA owners who have successfully upgraded to other brand firmware that you might want to reach out to, they may have your same stamp on their box.
Thanks David!

Just installed my RCA brand Doorbell (bought from ebay early this year with the stamp on the product box: SD C-10285 # 194211086 v1.1 ) + power kit for the mechanical chime and so far everything works. It came with the RCA firmware version 180809, which has been updated to the latest RCA version 190124 in RCA Security app. Later, upgraded to the LAVIEW firmware 190716 with Batch Tool to enable the ONVIF feature, which didn't brick the RCA brand Doorbell.
RCA Security app seems still to work with the RCA Doorbell with the LAVIEW firmware on, but what is the step if I want to switch to other compatible apps. Any recommendations?
 
Ah heck. Now transformer blown. No power. How does a doorbell blow out a 24V 30VA transformer? It came on for all of 5 mins and then out.
Just some observations:
The DB1 is in essence just a switch like your old doorbell. It should not and probably can not short out a transformer.
I don't know the situation in the US but in EU we use so called doorbell transformers. When the doorbell is pressed you practically short out the transformer. The transformer should be suitable for this.
As you shorted out 3 transformers already there has to be something else going on. I agree with Pete_c; disconnect the wires and start measuring and start checking your components.
As your basement TV has something to do with it, maybe you experiencing a ground loop?