Night Vision adjustments for starlight dahua cams.

hmjgriffon

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I started trying to tweak settings to get the best image day and night and running different profiles for each. What is the best way to sharpen up faces in images at night with night vision? Played around with a few different things, didn't help much. Always seems like the auto settings do the best anyways. Is running external IR the way to really kick up the sharpness on night vision? I'm sure these methods count for any cam but I'm working with starlights so I put it here.
 

nayr

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for the starlights its really hard to beat auto on latest firmware; if your doing LPR reading you can max out the sharpness but other than that your going to have to a very unique environment to top it IMHO

Adding external IR thats a wider angle than the camera really gives it a punch, auto will crank up the shutter speeds and reduce gain even further.
 

hmjgriffon

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for the starlights its really hard to beat auto on latest firmware; if your doing LPR reading you can max out the sharpness but other than that your going to have to a very unique environment to top it IMHO

Adding external IR thats a wider angle than the camera really gives it a punch, auto will crank up the shutter speeds and reduce gain even further.
pretty much what I thought LOL just seein if there was any tweaks i could do to squeeze anything else out of it lol, image is good though, I think I can identify someone still.
 

Camit

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Wouldn't adding more sharpness add more noise to the image ?
 

NoloC

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I still wonder if the night image on faces being a bit soft is related to shutter speed. If the exposure is too long and the subject is moving, you will get a blurred image. Not really sure what the cam does in auto but I would assume it extends the exposure time and adds gain to maintain a video level. The other thing I think is going on is that the majority of the picture (raster) at night is very dark. So the camera is exposing for that level. A face pops into view illuminated by ir and can hit the white clips of the camera and "wash out". Kind of the same as a license plate at night. With lpr it is generally given that the camera used to read plates at night won't be useful for much else due to exposure. But we want it to be exposed for that plate reflecting light so we can read it.

We want to see the poorly illuminated areas and adjust the camera with wdr, shutter, gamma and whatever to see in the shadows but maybe that is hurting the faces at night. So I guess that is what Nayr said about adding a wide angle of light. It would create a more evenly lit scene. Less dynamic range for the auto stuff in the camera to have to respond to. Also the internal ir seems to create a hot spot on a face. Need to play with disabling internal and using wide external ir.

On the shutter thing for example, I have some 2032 Hiks. At night I can make a scene really quiet and bright in the shadows by lowering the shutter speed. I run 10 fps so I can go down to 1/10 in theory. But makes the camera useless for anything moving. And a face is just a blob. That is a great advantage to these starlights. Their low light ability makes moving images much sharper at night.

Might be fun to play with the settings a bit but so far, yup - Auto.

Or am I FOS?
 

hmjgriffon

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I still wonder if the night image on faces being a bit soft is related to shutter speed. If the exposure is too long and the subject is moving, you will get a blurred image. Not really sure what the cam does in auto but I would assume it extends the exposure time and adds gain to maintain a video level. The other thing I think is going on is that the majority of the picture (raster) at night is very dark. So the camera is exposing for that level. A face pops into view illuminated by ir and can hit the white clips of the camera and "wash out". Kind of the same as a license plate at night. With lpr it is generally given that the camera used to read plates at night won't be useful for much else due to exposure. But we want it to be exposed for that plate reflecting light so we can read it.

We want to see the poorly illuminated areas and adjust the camera with wdr, shutter, gamma and whatever to see in the shadows but maybe that is hurting the faces at night. So I guess that is what Nayr said about adding a wide angle of light. It would create a more evenly lit scene. Less dynamic range for the auto stuff in the camera to have to respond to. Also the internal ir seems to create a hot spot on a face. Need to play with disabling internal and using wide external ir.

On the shutter thing for example, I have some 2032 Hiks. At night I can make a scene really quiet and bright in the shadows by lowering the shutter speed. I run 10 fps so I can go down to 1/10 in theory. But makes the camera useless for anything moving. And a face is just a blob. That is a great advantage to these starlights. Their low light ability makes moving images much sharper at night.

Might be fun to play with the settings a bit but so far, yup - Auto.

Or am I FOS?
I'm running all auto settings at night, I recently added 20 WDR to the day settings on this cam because part of the frame is shade from the house and part is sunlight on the driveway, 20wdr seems to even it out nicely and make faces and stuff more visible in the shade. I kicked sharpness up to 75 and everything else auto at night and compared it to sharpness of 50 and it made details sharper of course, which seemed good for faces, I did not notice any blurring when I moved around, I think it added a tiny bit of noise but nothing I could really notice, in the help thing on the web interface they recommend a sharpness range of 40-60 to avoid noise, so I've kicked it down to 60, I will test tonight. Faces with sharpness at 50 really weren't much different, in the grand scheme of an ID it probably wouldn't matter much. External IR might help.
 

NoloC

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I'm going to try those settings as well tonight.

Thanks
 

framednlv

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I would really like to see some of the night pictures along with the camera model.
 

hmjgriffon

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That is one I've been looking at, just wanted to see some more night shots with objects in motion. When you upload can you comment on any additional lighting?
we just got really bright LED street lights if that is what you mean, otherwise I've got zero other light in the area of this cam and no external IR to play with, I'd love to get an IR emitter to play with though and see how much it helps, when finances allow.
 

hmjgriffon

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Dude, it looks like you live in a mansion, we know your cable/Internet bill is really low, and you don't have any HOA fees. Get to playing! ;) (I jest, I jest...) :D
ha haaaa, I keep my bills and expenses down on purpose, it makes living easier and leaves more money for hobbies like IP cameras. Unfortunately after 2 years of being miserable and my mental and physical well being going down the shitter, I decided to quit my job, so I have to try and not spend any money at the moment lol.
 

hmjgriffon

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Here are 3 shots @ sharpness 50, 60, and 70. Now that I look at it I think I can see a little noise coming in at 70, I think I will stick with 60, huge improvement over 50, and I see why they say 60 is the highest they recommend.

50
50.jpg

60
60.jpg

70
70.jpg
 

NoloC

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That's him officer. He's the one that did it!

It is a huge difference going up from 50. That first shot looks pretty soft on your face. Nice test!
 

Camit

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