Question about A/V closet Ethernet terminations

[ProjectGuy111]

Little by little I'm planning for my IP camera install and have another question.

I did some research and it seems that RJ45 plugs are the least reliable type of termination and accepted practices dictate to terminate the in-wall wiring at a punchdown, then use a patch cable from there.

I see a lot of people here use rack mounted punch down panels but I am severely limited on space in the closet and don't think I can fit it (unless there is a wall mount option?).

Is the next best thing to use wall plates with keystones? My wires will be coming in from the ceiling in the closet.

I want to avoid using plugs on the in wall wiring (except probably at the cameras) and am looking to clean up my existing rats next of BNC cables and not replicate it with Ethernet.

Thanks!

ps: I'd share a pic of the existing mess but would probably get banned

 

[ludshed]

I’d say the opposite. Even if you used punch down blocks you’re still using 45 cords to connect the cameras and from blocks to nvr. More attenuation loss like adding a dozen couplers in a 325’ run would make a usable cable not.

 

[saltwater]

For space reasons, you could consider a vertical wall mounted patch panel rack system. Example here.

 

[saltwater]

FWIW, I terminated all my lines with RJ45's and they plug into the patch panels. I have not had any issues with the setup in over 3 years when I first set up my system. The beauty is that I can remove them at will, if they were punched down I couldn't, well, not easily anyway.

 

[ProjectGuy111]

Thanks for the info! I’m also going to be running some network cables but perhaps the cams aren’t as sensitive

 

[tigerwillow1]

I went with an in- wall box and surface-mount patch panels. It's flush with the wall when the door is closed. The box is kind of busy, besides network connections there's TV antenna distribution, landline telephone distribution, and some security alarm stuff in there. There are 42 punchdown RJ45s.

 

[samplenhold]

Data centers use patch panels. I have terminated all of my runs myself and have had no issues for years. My LPR and a few other cams run to a punch-down patch panel in one part of the attic that runs to another punch-down patch panel in a different part of the attic that then runs to a rack mounted rj45 patch panel. In this example, it just was not feasible for me you run full length runs throughout the separate attics.

 

[ProjectGuy111]

I’d say the opposite. Even if you used punch down blocks you’re still using 45 cords to connect the cameras and from blocks to nvr. More attenuation loss like adding a dozen couplers in a 325’ run would make a usable cable not.

I agree that more is not better, but my research has found that the punch downs have impedance matching circuit boards which helps with crosstalk and that plugs are just plastic with gold contacts. Patch cords are, apparently, better constructed than what one can do at home.

For space reasons, you could consider a vertical wall mounted patch panel rack system. Example here.

Will check it out - thanks!

FWIW, I terminated all my lines with RJ45's and they plug into the patch panels. I have not had any issues with the setup in over 3 years when I first set up my system. The beauty is that I can remove them at will, if they were punched down I couldn't, well, not easily anyway.

I agree - I'm sure running plugs would be fine for IP Cams but I am also thinking about network runs. Specifically I am planning to replace 5e cables with a 6a and hope to maximize my internal network speed. Because I'll also be running wires for cams at the same time I just want to make sure I'm doing it right.

I went with an in- wall box and surface-mount patch panels. It's flush with the wall when the door is closed. The box is kind of busy, besides network connections there's TV antenna distribution, landline telephone distribution, and some security alarm stuff in there. There are 42 punchdown RJ45s.

View attachment 192082

I started seeing these boxes after I posted and I'm interested. Not sure if I could fit one but I will look into this as an option.

Data centers use patch panels. I have terminated all of my runs myself and have had no issues for years. My LPR and a few other cams run to a punch-down patch panel in one part of the attic that runs to another punch-down patch panel in a different part of the attic that then runs to a rack mounted rj45 patch panel. In this example, it just was not feasible for me you run full length runs throughout the separate attics.

View attachment 192095

How far does this stick out from the wall? I may do something similar as I want to do the accepted method even if it doesn't change performance. I've got issues about going "by the book"

Well, since we are playing show and tell, here is my current setup. The BNC pile is a labyrinth of wires and annoys the S out of me. That said, this is far better than it looked before and I moved my router and NAS (and power) into the closet cleaning up the rat's nest of wires that were on my office floor so def an improvement.

I also mounted the monitor in there for NVR/future IP Cam PC. The appeal of a patch panel or wall plates is I can remove everything if I needed to do other work in there and have all the wires gone.

I'm sure I am over engineering this but that's who I am lol.

 

[The Automation Guy]

Punch down connections have one less component to fail than a network plug. They are also quicker to terminate. I don't think either of these factors matter in a residential setting, but you can see why businesses and data centers would use punch down connectors when they have hundreds or even thousands of connections to make.

Long story short, use whichever method works best for your situation. Whatever your choice however, make sure the components you choose are rated for the network cabling you are using. For example, if your cable is Cat7, don't accidentally purchase Cat5e connectors or patch panels. Make sure the rating of your connectors matches your wire.

 

[ProjectGuy111]

Punch down connections have one less component to fail than a network plug. They are also quicker to terminate. I don't think either of these factors matter in a residential setting, but you can see why businesses and data centers would use punch down connectors when they have hundreds or even thousands of connections to make.

Long story short, use whichever method works best for your situation. Whatever your choice however, make sure the components you choose are rated for the network cabling you are using. For example, if your cable is Cat7, don't accidentally purchase Cat5e connectors or patch panels. Make sure the rating of your connectors matches your wire.

Good advice - thanks.

 

[tigerwillow1]

use whichever method works best for your situation

Amen to that! There are other things to consider beside the electrical specs, like physical space, ease of reconfiguration, how badly you hack up your house, where the wires can be run, and other similar but different details.

 

[Teken]

Lots of good information provided thus far so will only reinforce the following:

Cable Length: Always try to keep the run as short as possible.

Service Loop: There should be a service loop on both ends where possible. That can span 5-15 feet depending upon the environment and needs. The cable should not be bent or have tight bends.

Termination: The biggest impact is not keeping the pairs twisted right at the punch down / RJ45 coupler / RJ45 connector.

RJ45 Connector: Purchase and use the RJ45 connector with the correct wire diameter. Everyday there are professional and consumers struggling and wondering how come a specific Ethernet cable won’t go in smoothly! ‍♂

Because you’re literally using the wrong one!

If the installation / location is salty / humid only use RJ45 connectors that dead end and not the pass through type. Even though you Should be using dielectric grease and the water tight glands. Using dead end connectors removes another failure point in the installation. ☝

Pull String: It goes without saying besides running extra pairs of wire. If you can’t because of limited supply on hand or budget.

Run a pull string with the first run so it can be used later to pull the next cable if and when you’re ready. The time invested to do so will save what little hair is on your head.

18-2 / 22-4 Cable: Running either or both cables opens the door and future proofs you from needing the same. It can power a non POE camera, speaker, microphone, sensor(s) etc.

Marking: Always identify all of the runs prior to laying the cable. It will save you time and help identify the same in the future if required. The first one is using a sharpie. Next is using nylon ID tape or better yet heat shrink labels even if you make your own.

Holes: It’s pretty rare to find the exact grommet / gasket to protect the hole made in the building. But you can use some common things to do the same if needed in a pinch.

Almost every one has some kind of rubber material from mouse pad, garage gasket, silicone. You can cut out say a mouse pad or buy a few from the dollar store! Cut them the same size as the hole that’s in the soffit. This will protect the wire should it begin to rub against the panels.

Worst case you simply wrap some electrical tape a few inches above and below the exiting cable. Any small screw holes that are not used apply some semi transparent silicon to prevent ants / bugs getting in.

Testing: Always test the cable run for continuity and correct pairs before you zip everything closed.

It goes without saying as others noted only 23 AWG Solid Copper wire that is so rated.

 

[mat200]

Lots of good information provided thus far so will only reinforce the following:

Cable Length: Always try to keep the run as short as possible.

Service Loop: There should be a service loop on both ends where possible. That can span 5-15 feet depending upon the environment and needs. The cable should not be bent or have tight bends.

Termination: The biggest impact is not keeping the pairs twisted right at the punch down / RJ45 coupler / RJ45 connector.

RJ45 Connector: Purchase and use the RJ45 connector with the correct wire diameter. Everyday there are professional and consumers struggling and wondering how come a specific Ethernet cable won’t go in smoothly! ‍♂

Because you’re literally using the wrong one!

If the installation / location is salty / humid only use RJ45 connectors that dead end and not the pass through type. Even though you Should be using dielectric grease and the water tight glands. Using dead end connectors removes another failure point in the installation. ☝

Pull String: It goes without saying besides running extra pairs of wire. If you can’t because of limited supply on hand or budget.

Run a pull string with the first run so it can be used later to pull the next cable if and when you’re ready. The time invested to do so will save what little hair is on your head.

18-2 / 22-4 Cable: Running either or both cables opens the door and future proofs you from needing the same. It can power a non POE camera, speaker, microphone, sensor(s) etc.

Marking: Always identify all of the runs prior to laying the cable. It will save you time and help identify the same in the future if required. The first one is using a sharpie. Next is using nylon ID tape or better yet heat shrink labels even if you make your own.

Holes: It’s pretty rare to find the exact grommet / gasket to protect the hole made in the building. But you can use some common things to do the same if needed in a pinch.

Almost every one has some kind of rubber material from mouse pad, garage gasket, silicone. You can cut out say a mouse pad or buy a few from the dollar store! Cut them the same size as the hole that’s in the soffit. This will protect the wire should it begin to rub against the panels.

Worst case you simply wrap some electrical tape a few inches above and below the exiting cable. Any small screw holes that are not used apply some semi transparent silicon to prevent ants / bugs getting in.

Testing: Always test the cable run for continuity and correct pairs before you zip everything closed.

It goes without saying as others noted only 23 AWG Solid Copper wire that is so rated.

and .. then there's the N+1+ rule ..

Run one extra cable for each location while it is cheap, as this cost is typically just the cable cost as the labor is nearly the same as running N cables .. ( of course, this depends on who is installing, as some install per "drop" charges .. if DIY you are basically looking at not much more labor time for most American Homes / Businesses ..

 

[mat200]

I like to terminate in the patch panel with punch downs ..



for in house ethernet jacks .. I went with Keystones from Monoprice


also picked up wall plates from them .. tho right now they seem to be out of the smaller ones .. ( I typically go with the 2, or 4 port plates for in house eth
ernet drops )

 

[mat200]

Little by little I'm planning for my IP camera install and have another question.

I did some research and it seems that RJ45 plugs are the least reliable type of termination and accepted practices dictate to terminate the in-wall wiring at a punchdown, then use a patch cable from there.

I see a lot of people here use rack mounted punch down panels but I am severely limited on space in the closet and don't think I can fit it (unless there is a wall mount option?).

Is the next best thing to use wall plates with keystones? My wires will be coming in from the ceiling in the closet.

I want to avoid using plugs on the in wall wiring (except probably at the cameras) and am looking to clean up my existing rats next of BNC cables and not replicate it with Ethernet.

Thanks!

ps: I'd share a pic of the existing mess but would probably get banned

1) I did some research and it seems that RJ45 plugs are the least reliable type of termination and accepted practices dictate to terminate the in-wall wiring at a punchdown, then use a patch cable from there.

Yes. Ideally you do not want to minimize the movement of solid wires from the cat5e/6 in a manner that may break them. ( this is why patch cables are using stranded copper wires and why we really dislike CCA wiring )

you can terminate in a keystone or patch panel .. always leave some extra cabling length in the attic / basement so you have enough cable if you need to re terminate the cables

2) I see a lot of people here use rack mounted punch down panels but I am severely limited on space in the closet and don't think I can fit it (unless there is a wall mount option?)

can also go with termination to the RJ45 keystones and put those in a wall plate .. works ok if you only have a few cables imho .. ( say < 12 as that would be 2x 6 port wall plates ) .. if more, then that gets messy imho

 

[samplenhold]

How far does this stick out from the wall?

The rack is 12" deep.