Question on bulk cat 6 cable

[Jamson]

Hi, I would like to get 1000 fwet of white cat 6 cable and had a question. I noticed on Mononprice some of the cable say "in wall rated"and some dont. What's the difference as I imagine most cables would be run inside some part of the wall. Also some somen are 23awg and 23awg and 350 and 500mhz. So not sure which to get , I was thinking this one. Product Details for PID 8108 but also saw this one Product Details for PID 12787

And these are "in wall rated"
Product Details for PID 12804

Product Details for PID 12731

So not sure which to get.

Thanks

 

[Fastb]

Jamson,

I wouldn't use 12731:
- skinny at 26 ga. Esp if you're using poe cams.
- stranded. more resistance than solid (not good for poe). Stranded is trickier to terminate, not all RJ45 are compatible.

12804:
- stranded

12787:
- rated to 350MHz. Low. The other cables were rated to 500 or 550MHz.

8108:
- 23 AWG. Bigger than the others at 23 and 24 AWG.
- 500MHz rated. Good.
- Of the 4, I personally like this the best.

I noticed on Mononprice some of the cable say "in wall rated"and some dont.

CMR cable is fine. R=Riser. It can be put in walls. Whether the descrip says "in wall" or not. But can't be put into air ducts, air returns, etc.
CMP (p=plenum) is needed for use in ducting.

Fastb

 

[Jamson]

Is there any other cable that would be recommended that I didn't list? Want to make sure I use that correct one. It will be used for poe also. Thanks

 

[Fastb]

23ga, solid copper (not copper clad aluminum or steel), cat 6, for risers (plenum for for air ducts only if needed - $$), utp (vs stp, s=shielded, u p'bly don't need that for a home)

Get a termination tool and RJ45 connectors compatible w/ 23 Ga. And i like to use connn boots for strain relief

Maybe an patch cable tester , to check connections, shorts, opens, miswiring, etc

Have fun!

 

[phydeaux]

STP = Shielded Twisted Pair
UTP = Un-Shielded Twisted Pair

Go for the STP

The lower the # in Wire Gage means larger Wire Diameter.... Go for the 23 Gage

Unless your Going to make up jumper cables that will be connected or Disconnected on a continual basis OR you have to make very tight bends, go for the SOLID wire.

Mono part # 13560 you selected would be my Choice.

Check Ebay, Mono price sells on Ebay under their own name and is a few dollars less expensive than buying direct.

 

[Fastb]

good guidance from phydeaux.
I might quibble w/ shielded vs unshielded.
Minor point.
Shielded is good for long runs, if the wire crosses fluorescent lights, motors, RF noise sources, or runs parallel to AC wiring for a long stretch, then shielded is the way to go.
For cams in a home, with wires run thru attics, basements, or inside walls, then shielded might be overkill. It comes down to the money for the cable. And the hassle of dealing with shielded cable (braided shield 360 degrees, just under the jacket). And then terminating the shield to shielded RJ45)
Shielded connectors are absolutely necessary - you can still benefit along the run w/ STP.

We're getting into territory that's almost philosophical for a home install... For industrial, shielded is the way to go.

YMMV

Fastb

 

[Jamson]

I think I will go with 8108 as the shielded might make terminating the ends a lot harder.

 

[randytsuch]

FYI, the 23 gauge solid monoprice wire is pretty stiff, and kind of a pain to terminate. That said (knock on wood), all of my terminations have been fine, working with no trouble.
The 24 gauge stranded is much flexible, and easier to terminate.
I'm using monoprice ethernet connectors, and their terminating tool. FWIW, I only bought the in wall rated stuff.

I'm using the 23 gauge for the long runs, and 24 gauge for everything else.

 

[Jamson]

Thanks guys, I just ordered the 23 gauge as I have some long runs and POE. I also ordered the rj45 ez connectors and crimp tool.

 

[randytsuch]

The very first cable I made didn't work because I tried to make it without reading their instructions lol.
So when it didn't work, I found the monoprice instruction pdf online, and re-terminated and have been fine ever since.

I started marking one end of the insert and one end of the body, so I know how to orient the insert when I put it together.
Otherwise, I had to figure it out every time, makes it easier with the markings.

 

[drew91101]

This may be a silly point but make sure you get cat6 rj45 connectors, not the cat5e. I got the cat5e connectors for cat 6 cable when I first started; they worked but were a PITA. The cat6 connectors have a little more room for the bigger cable and are much easier to work with.

 

[looney2ns]

If you are in a lightning prone area (I am) the shielded cat 6 can save your bacon from induced surges. Ask me how I know.

 

[nayr]

This may be a silly point but make sure you get cat6 rj45 connectors, not the cat5e. I got the cat5e connectors for cat 6 cable when I first started; they worked but were a PITA. The cat6 connectors have a little more room for the bigger cable and are much easier to work with.

and vice versa; if you try to use cat6 connectors on cat5e cabling you'll rarely get a good enough crimp because they are designed for heavier gauge wiring..

You can get cat5 connectors and you can get cat6 connectors, you can also get connectors for solid copper and stranded.. vast majority of times when someone is having trouble getting a good termination its because they have the wrong connectors or some wrong got mixed up w/the right ones..

If you only ever buy solid copper cat6 cable and connectors you can save your self alot of grief..