Review: Dahua SD5A425XA-HNR 4MP 25x Starlight IR PTZ

How far can I detect and identify person using sd5a425xa, SD4A425DB, and sd49225 ? My house is in darkness. I want buy a few 5442 cams and one ptz, but I can't decide. Is is worth add money to 5a425 if I want identify person from 15metres ?
 
How far can I detect and identify person using sd5a425xa, SD4A425DB, and sd49225 ? My house is in darkness. I want buy a few 5442 cams and one ptz, but I can't decide. Is is worth add money to 5a425 if I want identify person from 15metres ?

The 49225 does not come with autotracking anymore, so if that is a feature you want, you can forget that one unless you find an old one.

The SD4A425DB needs a lot of infrared, so for total darkness at 15 meters it would be a stretch.

The 5a425 would be the best PTZ.

The 5442-Z4E would be the best 5442 series camera.
 
Thank you for your recommendation. Do you think identify from 7-8 metres will be possible using SD4A425DB? On back side house I have fewer requirements.
 
The SD4A425DB is on a less than ideal MP/sensor ratio so it really suffers without enough of any kind of light. And also without enough light the focus is soft.

One should only get it because they need the smaller form factor and is willing to sacrifice a little bit of performance.

See this comparison:

 
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Thank you. Now It is easy choise. Does camera need nvr to work with other cameras? To support own work.

Many people use Blue Iris or some other VMS system.

But many will just use SmartPSS or DMSS app to view cameras. From my own experience is it ok that way with one or two cameras, but once I got 3, trying to manage and use them for things like sync playback and stuff is a nightmare without some sort of VMS system.
 
Water and bio matter got into my junction box for this and messed up the pins in the PoE socket. I need to replace it.

I've chopped off the old socket and there's the full 8 wires, which is odd as all the vids I just watched on replacing sockets on smaller non PTZ cams seem to usually have less.

Can anyone confirm the order I should wire them into the new socket?

Normally I use T-568B for my cables, should I rewire the camera like that or is it some unusual order as per some of the vids I've watched?

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...Can anyone confirm the order I should wire them into the new socket?...

You should match what was there previously which was T568B.

It doesn't matter if you use A or B on a cable provided that both ends of that cable are the same. If you have A on one end of the cable segment and B on the other you have made a Crossover Cable which is mostly anachronistic these days as they used to be specifically for connecting networking devices together (e.g. hub to hub or switch to hub etc). As all modern networking equipment has auto-crossover detection you can use a normal A/A or B/B cable to connect networking devices instead of needing a Crossover A/B cable specifically.

You can also mix cable segments across a run. For example if you have a A/A patch cable connected to a B/B in wall permanent cable and another B/B patch cable at the far end that run will work fine.

The official spec calls for a stranded AWG24 patch cable of 5 meters, a solid core AWG23 permanent cable of 90 meters and a stranded AWG24 patch cable of 5 meters. Stranded cable cores are meant for patch cables and are thinner conductors that are meant to tolerate being moved or jostled. The solid core cables are thicker and meant to remain static in place once installed. The spec is for a maximum of 100 meters total length, any system that claims distances beyond that might work but are not following the industry standard.
 
Thanks for the info @smoothie, I added an RJ45 socket to the camera's cut cable end today in the T-568B config to try and match the previous socket and it booted straight up on testing. So thankfully it wasn't fried!

Only had it connected for a few minutes, but seemed fine.

Sealed up the holes and sealed around the mounting screws in the junction box on the tree today with some CT1, also replaced the RJ45 connect on the end of the cable in the junction box and the long run under the drive tests all good, so will give the CT1 24 hours to dry and try to remount tomorrow, fingers crossed :)