Review: EZVIZ DB1C

David L

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Finally found some compatible screws in my "bag of computer screws". I have it installed with the side wedge, which also helps tuck the wire nuts by providing more depth.

One thing that is odd is I wish mine had HIGHER sensitivity. It triggers both in human detection and motion detection around 10-12 feet from the camera. Since I live in the sticks where nothing happens I wish I could monitor the parking lot for driving cars. I have sensitivity set to the max. I'm running V5.3.0 build 200509. I says there is an upgrade available (build 201106). Wondering which build is more "sensitive". Is there an easy way to preserve the old firmware and re-install it should the new one prove disappointing?
So here is the Nov. 17, 2020 firmware: Not sure if it is the 201106 build but I would assume it is. Not sure if anyone downloaded the previous build...


I just checked and it is still showing the Nov. date so now I am 99% sure this is the latest firmware 201106

1609265505926.png
 

mangler

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So here is the Nov. 17, 2020 firmware: Not sure if it is the 201106 build but I would assume it is. Not sure if anyone downloaded the previous build...


I just checked and it is still showing the Nov. date so now I am 99% sure this is the latest firmware 201106

View attachment 78069
Thanks David, I saved a copy of Nov 17 firmware (201106). This is my first camera (wifi no less) so the firmware upgrade/preservation process is still unknown to me. I would like to preserve the 200509 build currently running on the camera as it seems to have the lower sensitivity that a lot of people seem to be looking for.

I am having some real trouble with the EZVIZ app. It will not let me log back in if I log out without changing the password. It will not allow 2 people to log in at the same time (would be nice to have the view/notifications on 2 phones). Is there any other app that could give me video and notifications?
 
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David L

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Thanks David, I saved a copy of Nov 17 firmware (201106). This is my first camera (wifi no less) so the firmware upgrade/preservation process is still unknown to me. I would like to preserve the 200509 build currently running on the camera as it seems to have the lower sensitivity that a lot of people seem to be looking for.

I am having some real trouble with the EZVIZ app. It will not let me log back in if I log out without changing the password. It will not allow 2 people to log in at the same time (would be nice to have the view/notifications on 2 phones). Is there any other app that could give me video and notifications?
So I am from the DB1 world :), since this is a Hikvision Camera I am sure many things still apply. We created a Doorbell 101 with a lot of info in it. You may want to review it. I know Guarding Vision App also for Apple is used in our world...Also if you have not already, be sure and get Batch Config. Tool, but I think several here has said to use an older version, since the newer version removes CCD Menu , I am running 3.0.2.6 which you can get at Nelly's

You should be able to share your login on a second phone, I believe you have to add a member, I am not sure what it is referred to or called but it is like sharing an account with different credentials with a second user...I have not done this sharing, I have 2 phones both logged in to the same account on the EZVIZ App on each phone for our LaView DB. I know EZVIZ changed mid-year on us, not allowing two logins in two different Apps.

Also, not aware of how to export a firmware, you can export your config...

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HTH
 

mangler

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David,

Thanks for the very helpful reply. Very good video doorbell 101 thread, hopefully we get something as good for the DB1C. I will be downloading batch config today. Looking forward to finding an alternative to the EZVIZ software, truth is I don't trust it.
 

planetix

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My only complaint is you cannot set a Static IP on the device, your Router has to assign one via DHCP, you can of course Static Map an IP via the board's MAC address. I don't like the fact the board is dependent on a router for it's IP. Though I have been told by a few it will be fine :) Guess I am Old School.
I also read IT guys like managing IPs this way, instead of hunting down devices IPs. Being an old IT guy, I do remember IP conflicts when an old device got turned on (like a printer), hunting it down, so maybe I need to get with the times :) Back then you were only as good as your IP list :)
You're worrying over nothing. If you assign a fixed ip via MAC and the router/dhcp server later goes away, the device doesn't lose the ip address, even if you reboot it. Assuming the rest of your LAN is in order you'll still have access. That, and it's just much easier to manage IPs this way. I use DHCP for everything and set fixed ip reservations for the devices that need them.

If it's (properly) reserved another device won't steal the address either. Ironically the most likely source of conflicts would be where you configured a static ip directly on a device that accidentally overlaps your reserved range. Hence the reason to manage everything together.
 

David L

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You're worrying over nothing. If you assign a fixed ip via MAC and the router/dhcp server later goes away, the device doesn't lose the ip address, even if you reboot it. Assuming the rest of your LAN is in order you'll still have access. That, and it's just much easier to manage IPs this way. I use DHCP for everything and set fixed ip reservations for the devices that need them.

If it's (properly) reserved another device won't steal the address either. Ironically the most likely source of conflicts would be where you configured a static ip directly on a device that accidentally overlaps your reserved range. Hence the reason to manage everything together.
No worries :), setting a Static IP on the device itself is still the most secure way to run a network. Devices depending on a DHCP server network can lead to downtime issues if a rogue DHCP server gets introduced. Now a days switches have DHCP servers, turn one of those on accidently and see what happens to your network :) You would be surprised what Novice IT guys do these days. I understand it is easier to let the DHCP Server manage your IPs, but I guess after many decades of running small, medium, large to very large networks, last one being 25,000+ nodes, I will always assign a Static IP to any device deemed important; routers, servers, switches, etc. also Alarm systems...:) Plus having a Static IP is much easier to configure a device.


 

mangler

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My DB1C seems to go offline quite a bit. More so at night, with IR lights on. I have the worlds cheapest doorbell, with a 16V 10VA transformer, but it is on the recommended list. I measured 21.6 V! at the terminals with standard doorbell button, 20V with the DB1C installed (daytime) and 18.6V at night with IR lights on. Seems like it should be sufficient. Anyone else experiencing random reboots?
 

flynreelow

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My DB1C seems to go offline quite a bit. More so at night, with IR lights on. I have the worlds cheapest doorbell, with a 16V 10VA transformer, but it is on the recommended list. I measured 21.6 V! at the terminals with standard doorbell button, 20V with the DB1C installed (daytime) and 18.6V at night with IR lights on. Seems like it should be sufficient. Anyone else experiencing random reboots?

what type of router and internet connection do you have?
 

planetix

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No worries :), setting a Static IP on the device itself is still the most secure way to run a network. Devices depending on a DHCP server network can lead to downtime issues if a rogue DHCP server gets introduced. Now a days switches have DHCP servers, turn one of those on accidently and see what happens to your network :) You would be surprised what Novice IT guys do these days. I understand it is easier to let the DHCP Server manage your IPs, but I guess after many decades of running small, medium, large to very large networks, last one being 25,000+ nodes, I will always assign a Static IP to any device deemed important; routers, servers, switches, etc. also Alarm systems...:) Plus having a Static IP is much easier to configure a device.


I don't disagree but context is king - we're in a doorbell thread for home users. I've also managed large network deployments but not all lessons learned in the Enterprise map downstream to homelabs. Anyway, if it works for you I'm not gonna argue.


My DB1C seems to go offline quite a bit. More so at night, with IR lights on. I have the worlds cheapest doorbell, with a 16V 10VA transformer, but it is on the recommended list. I measured 21.6 V! at the terminals with standard doorbell button, 20V with the DB1C installed (daytime) and 18.6V at night with IR lights on. Seems like it should be sufficient. Anyone else experiencing random reboots?
If you are able to rule out network issues (check for errors from your WAP, etc.) I would certainly focus on that 16v 10VA transformer. It may technically be in spec, and meter out ok, but that is right on the fringe for these kind of wireless doorbells, or it could just be the transformer is slowly on its way out - that happens more than you'd think. From your description it certainly sounds like a power issue though we'd need more detail to be sure.

Better, stronger, new transformers are cheap, easy to get, and easy to install assuming you have good access to it.
 

David L

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My DB1C seems to go offline quite a bit. More so at night, with IR lights on. I have the worlds cheapest doorbell, with a 16V 10VA transformer, but it is on the recommended list. I measured 21.6 V! at the terminals with standard doorbell button, 20V with the DB1C installed (daytime) and 18.6V at night with IR lights on. Seems like it should be sufficient. Anyone else experiencing random reboots?
This was a known issue with the DB1 and it's rebrands, actually most Smart VDBs. I can tell you with over a year and a half experience with mine, if you plan on streaming, I would most definitely increase your amperage, the general rule is if you have a Mech. Chime and have a existing 16v 10va trans., it is best to go 16v 30va, if 24v then stick with 24v, it is all about how hard the hammer rods hit the bell bar, those who went to 24v from 16v noticed a much louder bell, also I can see where it could over time damage the Chime. We have a big write up about this issue in the Install section of our 101

Happy New Year
 

biggen

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I put in a brand new 16V transformer when I installed my DB1C. I've not noticed any reboots or anything strange on my end. Are you sure they are reboots and not just wifi signal issues?
 

David L

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I don't disagree but context is king - we're in a doorbell thread for home users. I've also managed large network deployments but not all lessons learned in the Enterprise map downstream to homelabs. Anyway, if it works for you I'm not gonna argue.




If you are able to rule out network issues (check for errors from your WAP, etc.) I would certainly focus on that 16v 10VA transformer. It may technically be in spec, and meter out ok, but that is right on the fringe for these kind of wireless doorbells, or it could just be the transformer is slowly on its way out - that happens more than you'd think. From your description it certainly sounds like a power issue though we'd need more detail to be sure.

Better, stronger, new transformers are cheap, easy to get, and easy to install assuming you have good access to it.
Agreed.

Have a Happy New Year!!!
 

David L

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I put in a brand new 16V transformer when I installed my DB1C. I've not noticed any reboots or anything strange on my end. Are you sure they are reboots and not just wifi signal issues?
With these Hiks it is common that low voltage will reboot, cause network disconnects, random loss of RTSP streaming, etc. IR and Chime require more amperage/load drain on the transformer. All Smart wired Video Doorbells encounter this issue. I ran with a builder grade 10v 16va trans. for a few months with no problem, but when I set up two streams I noticed issues. I actually already bought a trans. but when I setup the DB in BI it made me install it. :)

Happy New Year
 

mangler

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With these Hiks it is common that low voltage will reboot, cause network disconnects, random loss of RTSP streaming, etc. IR and Chime require more amperage/load drain on the transformer. All Smart wired Video Doorbells encounter this issue. I ran with a builder grade 10v 16va trans. for a few months with no problem, but when I set up two streams I noticed issues. I actually already bought a trans. but when I setup the DB in BI it made me install it. :)

Happy New Year
Thanks this is confirmation for me. Doorbell goes offline every 20 minutes with IR lights on at nights definitely looking like a power issue. The internet connection is quite solid, doorbell is about 10 feet away, just on the other side of the door. I did get a few messages saying the connection was dodgy and asking me to lower the resolution, but very uncommon. May also be related to power issue. Transformer is at eye level on the side of the electrical panel, so replacement should be within my skill set. Is 16V 30VA enough? If I am replacing it I want to do it only once. I see some 40VA, but availability is much lower...

Happy New Year!
 

David L

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Thanks this is confirmation for me. Doorbell goes offline every 20 minutes with IR lights on at nights definitely looking like a power issue. The internet connection is quite solid, doorbell is about 10 feet away, just on the other side of the door. I did get a few messages saying the connection was dodgy and asking me to lower the resolution, but very uncommon. May also be related to power issue. Transformer is at eye level on the side of the electrical panel, so replacement should be within my skill set. Is 16V 30VA enough? If I am replacing it I want to do it only once. I see some 40VA, but availability is much lower...

Happy New Year!
30va should be fine, the 40va or higher is usually used for two Doorbells plus I think they mainly come in at 24v. Just match your voltage. I know the Edwards Trans. were very popular in our Thread. Do you know where your existing trans. is? Ours was in our Attic attached to to the side of our attic light junction box. I had to drag a ladder up in our attic to get to it, but it was a very easy exchange...

1609510746172.png



I always share this video to better help explain the Load needed for these Doorbells...

 
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mangler

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30va should be fine, the 40va or higher is usually used for two Doorbells plus I think they mainly come in at 24v. Just match your voltage. I know the Edwards Trans. were very popular in our Thread. Do you know where your existing trans. is? Ours was in our Attic attached to to the side of our attic light junction box. I had to drag a ladder up in our attic to get to it, but it was a very easy exchange...

View attachment 78317



I always share this video to better help explain the Load needed for these Doorbells...

Thanks for the video, the small change in voltage is what you want. The fact it goes down 3V at night for me with IR lights is a red flag... My transformer is right at the electrical panel, one of the only things the electrician did right. Should be less than 15 minutes to swap out even with my skills. :)

Nice old timey bulb btw :)
 

flynreelow

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for those who have upgraded to this new DB1C .. are you happy with the results?

worth the upgrade?
 

kklee

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for those who have upgraded to this new DB1C .. are you happy with the results?

worth the upgrade?
It's definitely a nice upgrade from the old DB1. Wider angle view and clearer video than the DB1.

I'm having Wifi dropout issues which are likely due to the transformer (Unifi AP sits within 10 feet of the doorbell and no other devices are having Wifi issue using that AP). I had upgraded from the wimpy 16v 10VA stock transformer that came with my door chime to a 16V 20VA, but it doesn't seem to be enough. I bought a 16V 30VA from Amazon, so that should resolve the issue.

One other minor issue is the IR emitter on the DB1C has a wider dispersion angle than the DB1, so I'm getting an IR reflection from the frame of my screen door which is very close to the DB1C. Since I have a Turret camera with IR covering the front yard, I turned off the IR on the doorbell and rely on the Turret IR to illuminate things.
 

flynreelow

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It's definitely a nice upgrade from the old DB1. Wider angle view and clearer video than the DB1.

I'm having Wifi dropout issues which are likely due to the transformer (Unifi AP sits within 10 feet of the doorbell and no other devices are having Wifi issue using that AP). I had upgraded from the wimpy 16v 10VA stock transformer that came with my door chime to a 16V 20VA, but it doesn't seem to be enough. I bought a 16V 30VA from Amazon, so that should resolve the issue.

One other minor issue is the IR emitter on the DB1C has a wider dispersion angle than the DB1, so I'm getting an IR reflection from the frame of my screen door which is very close to the DB1C. Since I have a Turret camera with IR covering the front yard, I turned off the IR on the doorbell and rely on the Turret IR to illuminate things.

i have mine, its still in the box, wondering if i should install it or not.
 

mangler

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It's definitely a nice upgrade from the old DB1. Wider angle view and clearer video than the DB1.

I'm having Wifi dropout issues which are likely due to the transformer (Unifi AP sits within 10 feet of the doorbell and no other devices are having Wifi issue using that AP). I had upgraded from the wimpy 16v 10VA stock transformer that came with my door chime to a 16V 20VA, but it doesn't seem to be enough. I bought a 16V 30VA from Amazon, so that should resolve the issue.

One other minor issue is the IR emitter on the DB1C has a wider dispersion angle than the DB1, so I'm getting an IR reflection from the frame of my screen door which is very close to the DB1C. Since I have a Turret camera with IR covering the front yard, I turned off the IR on the doorbell and rely on the Turret IR to illuminate things.
This has got me a little worried, since I have the same cheapo 16V 10VA transformer that is giving me reboots on the DB1C. I thought that 30VA would fix it for sure(just about to order), but now I see stories of people that had to go to 24V 40VA to get stable performance from other products (Ring Pro). Always a bit iffy on upping the voltage on a 16V chime, even though people say it's fine, just a little louder, more wear and tear. No one ever rings the doorbell here so that should not be a problem. I do want to avoid burning out anything though, for both hassle and safety reasons.
 
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