Rough In brackets or wall plate for Dahua or maybe universal

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I'm in the middle of construction of a single family residence. There are a handful of exterior and interior cameras that will likely be Dahua that will be a combination of bullet and dome. I see that Dahua has some ceiling and pole mounting brackets but I'm wondering what the solution is for exterior wall mounted cameras. Are there any generic or universal brackets or wall brackets that I install during rough-in stage? Do I simply just leave the ethernet cable dangling outside of the house and the stucco guys just punch a hole in their system and let it dangle outside of that as well? It seems weird to just have an ethernet cable hanging outside for many months waiting for the final camera to be mounted.
 

TonyR

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If you don't know the exact camera model number so you can have the matching junction box mounted and the CAT cable (2 to 3 ft.) coiled up inside, consider then roughing in a 2"x3" handy box and mount the following Dahau Gangbox Adapter:


Dahua_2x3_adapter.png
 
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If you don't know the exact camera model number so you can have the matching junction box mounted and the CAT cable (2 to 3 ft.) coiled up inside, consider then roughing in a 2"x3" handy box and mount the following Dahau Gangbox Adapter:


View attachment 189428
Does any Dahua (or even maybe other brands) mount to this gangbox adapter?

Maybe the first step would be figuring out which Dahua cameras to use for the exterior. I need Identify atleast 25 feet. This is for a single family residence and will be side wall mounted so I suspect a bullet is the best product over dome. I see a lot of dome for residences though. Any thoughts or suggestions?
 
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wittaj

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The problem though is maybe the mount works for this camera, but in a few years you replace the camera and the new camera doesn't fit that box. That is why @TonyR comment makes the most sense.

Stay away from domes outside. Either turret or bullet form.

See this thread for the commonly recommended cameras (along with Amazon links) based on distance to IDENTIFY that represent the overall best value in terms of price and performance day and night.

The Importance of Focal Length over MP in camera selection
 

Oldtechguy66

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My technique was, when prewiring LV for security (or whatever), mount a standard DEEP J box, coil wire inside. TIP - cut some foam or cardboard to fit snug inside the box to protect the cable while house being finished. Else your cable ends up being covered in paint, drywall mud, stucco, or who knows what. For areas where drywall will be installed, I like to tie the cable in a knot or put a clump of tape around the end, then push as much as possible back into the wall (don't do this with the blue PVC boxes that have tension slots, else you'll never get the wire pulled back in. Cut out any tension slot tabs for full access first). If you cannot do that, then use thick cardboard or even thin plywood to fit in the box tightly. If you don't, you're apt to find your cables cut or ruined from drywall hangers using long bit Rotozip tools. Ask me how I know.... Nothing like finding only 2" of usable cable left after an overzealous drywall hanger with too long Rotozip bit cuts right though your handiwork. I liked to coil a few extra inches of cable in the wall, just in case. Sometimes building inspectors don't like it... but it can always happen after the rough-in inspection.. just sayin' ;)
 

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Does the linked PFA200G gang box adapter get installed outside of the house on the plywood or inside of the house inbetween studs? Right now the house is plywood exterior but will be getting stucco (foam, mesh and then stucco) on top so at what point do I install the PFA200G gang box adapter? Sorry for my ignorance: always learning!
 

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My technique was, when prewiring LV for security (or whatever), mount a standard DEEP J box, coil wire inside. TIP - cut some foam or cardboard to fit snug inside the box to protect the cable while house being finished. Else your cable ends up being covered in paint, drywall mud, stucco, or who knows what. For areas where drywall will be installed, I like to tie the cable in a knot or put a clump of tape around the end, then push as much as possible back into the wall (don't do this with the blue PVC boxes that have tension slots, else you'll never get the wire pulled back in. Cut out any tension slot tabs for full access first). If you cannot do that, then use thick cardboard or even thin plywood to fit in the box tightly. If you don't, you're apt to find your cables cut or ruined from drywall hangers using long bit Rotozip tools. Ask me how I know.... Nothing like finding only 2" of usable cable left after an overzealous drywall hanger with too long Rotozip bit cuts right though your handiwork. I liked to coil a few extra inches of cable in the wall, just in case. Sometimes building inspectors don't like it... but it can always happen after the rough-in inspection.. just sayin' ;)
Do you have a specific model J box you use that you can post or PM me? Any pics of your work? I'm very curious because I also fear the Rotozip!! :) :)
 

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Does the linked PFA200G gang box adapter get installed outside of the house on the plywood or inside of the house inbetween studs? Right now the house is plywood exterior but will be getting stucco (foam, mesh and then stucco) on top so at what point do I install the PFA200G gang box adapter? Sorry for my ignorance: always learning!
You "rough-in" the 2x3 box; the Dahua adapter is the last thing you install right before you mount the cam; brick, stucco, siding, etc. all on and the adapter onto the finished wall. Contractor should now how much to recess it based on thickness of the intended final product so that it is flush with the exterior.

It allows a multitude of Dahua cams of all form factors to be mounted on a cheap, standard box available at Lowes, Home Depot, etc.
 

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Do you have a specific model J box you use that you can post or PM me? Any pics of your work? I'm very curious because I also fear the Rotozip!! :) :)
There are numerous type standard electrical junction boxes ("J boxes"), used for line and low voltage applications. They normally are nailed to the studs. But, there are metal boxes, mostly used in commercial or exposed (but interior) applications (basements etc), or attached to metal studs where those are employed. The boxes come in various depths and volumes, typical 16-22 cubic inch. I prefer the larger ones when working with RG6 or multiple LV cabling, because it obviously allows more room inside the box. But, sometimes the large boxes won't fit a given location, so I use biggest that will fit.
Here's a typical PVC box, sold at Home Depot, Lowes and many building supply stores everywhere. Note this type has knockout plugs for cable entrance. It allows you to reposition the cable (slide back & forth as needed). There is a similar type box with pinch clamp type slots in the back, acting as a one way check to prevent cables from pulling out of the box. That's fine for most use (Romex), but I don't like them for LV cabling because they're apt to cut/tear the cable jacket and make it hard to push back any excess cable into the wall. But, there are many ways to do things and this is only one. Any home improvement or building supply store should have these boxes. In the US, many code jurisdictions require use of "2 hour rated" boxes, even for low voltage cable boxes. Make sure any box you choose is min 2 hr rated, if required codes in your area. Note - mounting boxes for stucco can be challenging because the actual finished dept from substrate is unknown or variable. Many J boxes have markings on the side for various common set-out depths, IE 3/8, 1/2, 5/8 etc. On stucco, unless very smooth, often the box will end up being somewhat recessed below the stucco finish surface. It's a challenge sometimes mounting wall plates in this case. Foam gaskets and caulk are often needed for weather sealing in such cases.
1710471400056.png
 

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+1^^^.
These and the original metal ones are what I'm referring to as a generic 2x3 or handy box.
The contractor should know them and their variants and subsequently which one to pick and how to properly rough them in.
These boxes have been around for a VERY long time so If his eyes glaze over when you mention this, hire a different contractor because it'll just go downhill from there if you don't. :cool:
 
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So are you saying to install one of these plastic or metal 2x3 junction box at the location where the ethernet cable is hanging out of the exterior side wall as well as the gangbox adapter? Sorry for my ignorance.
 

TonyR

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So are you saying to install one of these plastic or metal 2x3 junction box at the location where the ethernet cable is hanging out of the exterior side wall as well as the gangbox adapter? Sorry for my ignorance.
Yes.

The 2x3 box, likely next to a 2" x 4" stud, goes inside the wall, flush with whatever the exterior layer is.
You wind the final 3 ft. of your CAT cable run up in a coil inside the box and cover the box with a lid or even duct tape to protect it from mud, stucco, rain, etc.
In the picture shown in my post #2, imagine that the pink foam board is that exterior, be it brick, stucco, siding, etc.

Otherwise you have what you mentioned in your very first post: "It seems weird to just have an ethernet cable hanging outside for many months waiting for the final camera to be mounted." :cool:
 

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"It seems weird to just have an ethernet cable hanging outside for many months waiting for the final camera to be mounted."...

Most of the time, that's what I dealt with in new construction. Many electricians in my area for whatever reason treat LV cabling as not real electrical work, and they hate to do it. No idea why, they get paid the same. So, when I came onto the job, there was usually just Cat5, RG6, or whatever LV cabling sticking out of the wall.. if they ran any LV at all. Some would install J boxes, others not. Some would coil up a few inches wire in the box, but most just left it hanging out to get cut or mangled by drywall crews, or whoever happened to be working in the area. Countless times had cables cut, buried and lost in walls, boxes covered up, or cables damaged. Learned to always have a plan B, backup cables or access just in case.

It gets really interesting on log homes, which was my specialty.. Long auger bits, oscillating saws, chisels and routers are your best friends. Even more fun when electrician just pulls the cable out of the log, then leaves it for someone else to cut in a box into the log wall - working around the cable. But, I actually prefer they do that, vs them butchering the logs cutting in boxes... Electricians are generally not known for carpentry prowess, or neatness... Ah the joys of custom home building. It was fun.. I think. :rofl:
 

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Yes.

The 2x3 box, likely next to a 2" x 4" stud, goes inside the wall, flush with whatever the exterior layer is.
You wind the final 3 ft. of your CAT cable run up in a coil inside the box and cover the box with a lid or even duct tape to protect it from mud, stucco, rain, etc.
In the picture shown in my post #2, imagine that the pink foam board is that exterior, be it brick, stucco, siding, etc.

Otherwise you have what you mentioned in your very first post: "It seems weird to just have an ethernet cable hanging outside for many months waiting for the final camera to be mounted." :cool:
Much appreciated for the help and response. I totally didn't look at that image close enough but indeed you can see that the bracket is screwed into the junction box screw holes! Brilliant!
 

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@TonyR - I am planning on using Dahua bullet cameras that are mounted to a stucco exterior side wall. Does that change your recommendation? I see from the specs and review that the PFA200G is not water proof and also from the specs it looks like it only supports Dome and Eyeball cameras and not Bullet. Any thoughts or experience with bullet exterior wall mounting?
 
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