tripwire not triggered during night?

[bertnl]

Hi ,
This week while in bed there was a 'funny guy' that ring the bell and run away while we where in bed.
I got up dut did not see anyone
I went to the PC to look wat actually happened.
To my surprise there was not a trigger in the stream of the frontdoor cam. Dahua camera: l IPC-T5442T-ZE 4MP Starlight Ir Varifocal
I have two tripwires defined and active.



If people walk normal the seem to trigger but when running towards the door and back the action is missed.
I have object filter Human and Vehicle enabled
There is quite some light at night from streetlight and my doorlight that are both on and the image is bright and colorful.
The conditions I have are:


And in profile management I have the fullltime profile day selected to make sure I keep the color image.

did I do something wrong?
Are my tripwires to complex? I made the zigzag the make sure that if one line is missed the next occasion wil trigger.

I forgot to mention, in the recorded stream I saw a man running to the door and back

 

[wittaj]

You cannot run on auto/default settings - this results in motion blur ghost instead of a human. Your camera is a little high, but it should work.

Once you dial it in to your field of view, and do the global config to calibrate the camera, then you will start to see results.

I have got IVS to work in a blizzard:




and this crazy shot where I will preface this with this camera is dialed in to this location for when the flood lights come on, so that is why the picture is so dark. One of the big issues people do not account for is what happens when a floodlight comes in - if the camera is on auto/default settings, the image will look ok when the floodlights are off, but then the camera gets temporarily blinded when the floodlights turn on or the image is too bright and it misses IVS motion. So the best option is to dial it in for when the floodlight is on knowing that they will kick on and you will get a great capture once they do.





It comes down to configuring your camera and dialing it in to your field of view and using a test subject to walk around while you are adjusting with the IVS rules on during live view to see when and why it is triggering.

Auto/default settings are usually going to be problematic. Auto shutter at night was probably a motion blur ghost and didn't look like a human.

And some field of views will be problematic as well. YMMV.

In my opinion, shutter and gain are the two most important and then base the others off of it. Shutter is more important than FPS. It is the shutter speed that prevents motion blur, not FPS. 15 FPS is more than enough for surveillance cameras as we are not producing Hollywood movies.

Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.

Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-30 (day)for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared.

Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night image results in Casper during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?

So if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 16.67ms (but certainly not above 30ms) as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter.

You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image.

You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.

But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.

Do not use backlight features until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. And if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible.

 

[bigredfish]

Hi ,
This week while in bed there was a 'funny guy' that ring the bell and run away while we where in bed.
I got up dut did not see anyone
I went to the PC to look wat actually happened.
To my surprise there was not a trigger in the stream of the frontdoor cam. Dahua camera: l IPC-T5442T-ZE 4MP Starlight Ir Varifocal
I have two tripwires defined and active.
View attachment 99051
View attachment 99052

If people walk normal the seem to trigger but when running towards the door and back the action is missed.
I have object filter Human and Vehicle enabled
There is quite some light at night from streetlight and my doorlight that are both on and the image is bright and colorful.
The conditions I have are:
View attachment 99053
View attachment 99054
And in profile management I have the fullltime profile day selected to make sure I keep the color image.

did I do something wrong?
Are my tripwires to complex? I made the zigzag the make sure that if one line is missed the next occasion wil trigger.

I forgot to mention, in the recorded stream I saw a man running to the door and back

Can you show a clip of the guy running to the door? Extra credit if you can display the tripwire I the video playback so we can see what went wrong.

Are you certain the IVS rule is enabled for that time?

 

[bertnl]

I forgot to mention, in the recorded stream I saw a man running to the door and back

Can you show a clip of the guy running to the door? Extra credit if you can display the tripwire I the video playback so we can see what went wrong.

Are you certain the IVS rule is enabled for that time?

I try to find the clip but it is hard when there is no evet in the stream and I do not remember wicht day . I only know I was in bend so night time
The immage is not that bad I tink due to the bright street light and the light near the door.
there is no floodlight or so.

 

[wittaj]

Even a cheap crap camera on auto settings will give a nice bright static image. You are not taking advantage of the capabilities of this camera.

I can make a camera look like noon at midnight, but motion will be complete crap and a blur.

You missed the motion because you are on default settings and probably haven't performed the global config.

It doesn't do you any good to have this nice bright static image if it doesn't trigger due to default auto settings that saw a ghost instead of a person....

Once you dial this in off of default/auto shutter, the image will get darker, but then it will also be of more benefit...

 

[bertnl]

I found the part of the clip and try to upload it.
I will try to play with the settings. I already left the automatic exposure.
But I do not understand the global config you are referring to

Even a cheap crap camera on auto settings will give a nice bright static image. You are not taking advantage of the capabilities of this camera.

I can make a camera look like noon at midnight, but motion will be complete crap and a blur.

You missed the motion because you are on default settings and probably haven't performed the global config.

It doesn't do you any good to have this nice bright static image if it doesn't trigger due to default auto settings that saw a ghost instead of a person....

Once you dial this in off of default/auto shutter, the image will get darker, but then it will also be of more benefit...

 

[wittaj]

You should have under the IVS rules above the image is a tab for Global Setup?

 

[bertnl]

You should have under the IVS rules above the image a tab for Global Config?

Thanks for helping with this.
uploading the clip stops at 5% The clip size is to large I guess I tried saving in MP4
I only need 30 seconds to show but with the scissor tool I seem only to be able to set the start point? How to set the endpoint?
But what is the benefit of that global setup?
I understood that was this was to have some relation to dimensions, but maybe I understood completely wrong.
I only used theRule config as I only want trpwires

 

[sebastiantombs]

Set the end point by clicking on the red dot on the right side of the playback line.

You'd be better off, IMHO, using an intrusion box rather than complex trip lines. If you have not "calibrated" for IVS it may not work well or as you expect. If you do switch to an intrusion box be sure to leave space around all edges so the camera has time to "see" things enter or exit the box.

 

[bertnl]

Set the end point by clicking on the red dot on the right side of the playback line.

You'd be better off, IMHO, using an intrusion box rather than complex trip lines. If you have not "calibrated" for IVS it may not work well or as you expect. If you do switch to an intrusion box be sure to leave space around all edges so the camera has time to "see" things enter or exit the box.

Thanks Sebastian,
But what does this calibration do?
Ik got inthe past a feeling thus was used to in some detail add contours of fourniture in a room?

 

[wittaj]

The calibration calibrates the camera to your field of view.

Since your camera is higher, a 6 foot tall person will look different than a 6 foot tall person on my camera that is installed lower. Yours is a more up and down because the camera is higher.

The calibration requires you to set an known object length at three different vertical spots in your field of view and one horizontal so that it calibrates your camera heights.

That, along with the other stuff we are telling you, will get this to work. If you skip any of it, then it may not work.

 

[bertnl]

The calibration calibrates the camera to your field of view.

Since your camera is higher, a 6 foot tall person will look different than a 6 foot tall person on my camera that is installed lower. Yours is a more up and down because the camera is higher.

The calibration requires you to set an known object length at three different vertical spots in your field of view and one horizontal so that it calibrates your camera heights.

That, along with the other stuff we are telling you, will get this to work. If you skip any of it, then it may not work.

OK I will look if that makes the difference.
About the manual setting of light I will need 3 timezones. Day , Start of night. Deepnight.
A start of night my garden ilumination is switched on when the sun goes down and the light gets low until 2AM and is then switched of.
But I see only possibility for day and night.So that can be a problem to get that solved with a manual setting. But I need to try that when it really gets dark which is currently quite late here.