Just to be clear, I'm interpreting this statement to say that the shield should be grounded at only one end.
I've been following the earth grounding and bonding debates for about 10 years after having a solar electric system installed. I ended up with 2 grounding points about 80 feet apart that are bonded together with a dedicated conductor. The installer explained that he does the grounding a few different ways depending on which inspector is assigned to the permit. This subject has many similarities to a group of engineers figuring out how to split the lunch check.
I'm going to over generalize for just a moment with respect to both sides of a shielded cable being grounded. If everything was equal both sides of the shielded Ethernet cable would be grounded. This assumes both ends of the Earth ground share the same potential (resistance) from point A to Point B. That is rarely the case and thus one side of the Ethernet cable is grounded to the buildings electrical (Earth) ground.
The key is that all components are connected to the same ground plane . . .
In this case the ground strap provided by the POCO which is tied (bonded) to the electrical service panel, water pipe, etc.
The most reliable and consistent grounding method known to man is called uFer grounding which my home also uses. It should be noted that the difference between component ground, chassis ground, and Earth ground can and will vary depending upon soil type, moisture present, building envelope, and all of the thousands of electrical items in a home. One example of how a ground loop can be created is say a person installs a camera and uses the OEM metal junction box.
The side of the building if made of metal / concrete / brick acts like a ground plane. Meanwhile the camera's component ground & chassis ground is tied to the building electrical Earth ground.
When such a condition exists a ground loop can be seen and the typical black bar is displayed on the image. To resolve such a problem an isolator is installed in its place and the easiest and effective solution is to mount the camera using a plastic junction box. This decuples the camera chassis from the buildings structure and allows the entire camera to simply use the electrical Earth ground provided by the POE / 12 VDC.
Now lets change gears for a moment as it pertains to an isolated solar IP camera system. In such a system if the camera is mounted to a metal pole one would think grounding is done - wrong! No matter what type metal pipe the internal resistance is much higher than a piece of copper wire. As such this is why a dedicated minimum of 6 ~ 12 AWG is used depending upon the length of the pipe, expected current, and surface area to be protected.
It goes without saying the type of accessories used to secure the grounding cable is just as important to allow a solid physical connection and long term conductivity: Clear Bare Metal Surface, Star Washer, SS Bolt, Conductive Nyogel, Copper ground rod / Multiple in parallel if ground soil resistance exceeds 25 ohms.