Make sure you also pick up a second (low profile, if I remember correctly) Intel based NIC from eBay (or a local second hand/ recycling source)...read the "two NIC" thread on that subject if you don't know what I am referring to.
OK. Yeah, I stumbled into that thread the other day. Thanks for the heads up.
Something like this?
Also, i’m planning on using my 4k living room television as the monitor. Anything to be aware of when pairing it with this g4?
Update: 4k tv is running fine with this. 9 cameras, all substreamed except one large window at full resolution. Averaging about 10%cpu
Can't seem to run codeproject without taxing out the specs though, but I don't really mind running with just the generic alerts
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I have this for my 7 cameras on the way from Andy
Lenovo m80q 3rd gen.
12. Gen Intel® Core™ i5-12500T vPro®-processor (P-cores 2,00 GHz up til 4,40 GHz)
16 GM Ram
Win11
Inet in house 1000/1000
Would I need better?
Lenovo m80q 3rd gen.
12. Gen Intel® Core™ i5-12500T vPro®-processor (P-cores 2,00 GHz up til 4,40 GHz)
16 GM Ram
Win11
Inet in house 1000/1000
Would I need better?
No, it'll work.
I suggest a clean install of Win 11 using a USB flash drive created with the MS Media Creation Tool.
Put Windows, BI and BI's "db" folder on a SSD and BI's video clips on a spinning HDD such as a WD Purple or other brand of surveillance-rated HDD.
Oops, didn't think you'd go for one of those after reading other recommendations...that's a poor assumption on my part. I have no personal experience with using an external USB 3.0 drive in that role but I've read enough to try my best to avoid it.
It's certainly your call.
Just pc's we use at my workplace for office employees etc. so I thought it would suffice
Well I will have to just leave 1 open and attach the drive directly to the SATA. Will be hidden anyways so should be fine
Thx for feedback
Yeah stay away from the USB drive. While in theory USB drives are fast enough, real world shows that is instantaneous speeds and not working speeds.
These cameras never buffer, so eventually the dropped packets and have to resend catch up and lock up the PC.
I tried a USB drive as a test once and monitored the write speed and after 30min I could see it start choking on sending just 2 cameras to the USB drive.
It probably has a CD drive = who needs that - you can unplug that and use its SATA to add another drive and duct tape in the box. It isn't like you are lugging this around LOL.
Keep in mind the T on the processor means the processor is designed for a Power optimized system, so this thing will throttle power and may impact performance of the computer. Hopefully with substreams it won't tax the CPU, but it is something to be aware that this computer will favor saving power over performance.
These cameras never buffer, so eventually the dropped packets and have to resend catch up and lock up the PC.
I tried a USB drive as a test once and monitored the write speed and after 30min I could see it start choking on sending just 2 cameras to the USB drive.
It probably has a CD drive = who needs that - you can unplug that and use its SATA to add another drive and duct tape in the box. It isn't like you are lugging this around LOL.
Keep in mind the T on the processor means the processor is designed for a Power optimized system, so this thing will throttle power and may impact performance of the computer. Hopefully with substreams it won't tax the CPU, but it is something to be aware that this computer will favor saving power over performance.
Come to think of if anyone tried recording locally on pc to fast SSD and then ---> NAS over LAN?
Would that be terrible?
Would that be terrible?
If you want to run the risk of killing the SSD faster...better to have video on a drive just for video so you don't lose your entire operating system.
But if you do, get a quality one that has several TB of memory and high TBW rating.
SSD HD Failure 2nd time :(
Unfortunately, my main sytem SSD has failed again. It failed april 2022 and I replaced it. What am I doing wrong? It is a Sandisk 240GB SSD. On a Dell Optiplex. I inserted the drive to another computer and also can't get past the windows screen with a loading circle. I have unplugged it a few...
No, much more desirable than external USB drive and works well, I'm told. Send clips directly to it.
Might have to mount 2 of my t54ir-ze-s3’s on this angled place under my roof. Would that be at all possible to angle? I have not bought any accessories as I prefer to mount flat on surfaces and for “looks” . Another option is flat on my garage 2 m further back so I can film entrance of house for identification.
Attachments
but yellow x is also possible for flat surface
You can mount the camera at any angle. The ball of the turret allows rotation to allow it to be mounted at any angle.
The bigger concern is if you mount too far back and get IR bounce from the soffit above.
@wittaj thx for response. Hmm I’m also worried the lamp in the pic will somehow create glare issues as the camera would have to be app above it. I take it you would go with the yellow x for view. As it is varifocal I could zoom in just a pinch so guests 4 m away at door stand out clear. Or if that is even needed at that distance.
Reg. IR bounce I’ll make sure to go near edge. Just also don’t want water running down it if can be avoided
Reg. IR bounce I’ll make sure to go near edge. Just also don’t want water running down it if can be avoided
Yeah no two situations are the same when it comes to mounting a camera in close proximity to an outside light.
I do think that fixture having glass on top allowing light to hit the soffit will be problematic. You may need to cover that.
Best recommendation would be to temp mount it at different locations at night to figure out the ideal place that won't get too much lens flare from the light.
I do think that fixture having glass on top allowing light to hit the soffit will be problematic. You may need to cover that.
Best recommendation would be to temp mount it at different locations at night to figure out the ideal place that won't get too much lens flare from the light.
This is live just now from my Arlo Essential 1080p that is currently sitting at the yellow x. This camera was what came with the alarm system I have now cancelled as I decided quality and costs didn’t go together. Placing the new t54ir-ze-s3 here would be ok for id’ing ppl at the door I guess . The light from Windows I would expect the better camera to handle better ? Any suggestions to if that mounting location would work
Door is app 4-5 m away app. next to the door lamp.
Door is app 4-5 m away app. next to the door lamp.
Attachments
This is live just now from my Arlo Essential 1080p that is currently sitting at the yellow x. This camera was what came with the alarm system I have now cancelled as I decided quality and costs didn’t go together. Placing the new t54ir-ze-s3 here would be ok for id’ing ppl at the door I guess . The light from Windows I would expect the better camera to handle better ? Any suggestions to if that mounting location would work
Door is app 4-5 m away app. next to the door lamp.
Wow that arlo quality LOL.
If you have the light to run in color, then the concern with infrared bounce off a soffit is a moot point.
I would probably optically zoom in to somewhere around the red box
I would hope the streetlights and the lights under the suffit would be enough for at 100000 times better camera from Andy to do color at this hour
And your red square suggestion is exactly what I want to cover from either this mounting position or the red x from the initial picture .
Yea Arlo at least this basic model is totally inadequate
And your red square suggestion is exactly what I want to cover from either this mounting position or the red x from the initial picture .
Yea Arlo at least this basic model is totally inadequate
Just keep in mind that any object between the camera and the light source results in a backlit condition where the face would be dark/black.
And keep in mind ANY camera can do color at night if you slow down the shutter and crank up the gain.
Andy's cameras can look like high noon at night that way, but then motion is a blur.
If you want to minimize blur with motion, you need faster shutters. The faster the shutter, the more light that is needed.
And that is where the better cameras come in because you can't set shutter speed on an arlo, so you are stuck with whatever it gives you.
But with Andy's cams, you can set shutter speed. And while that looks like enough light and should be enough light to run a 1/120 shutter, you won't know until you try. And you may find that the light is coming from the wrong direction or actually isn't as bright as it looks and the light can't get to the sensor and you then you need to run infrared.
And keep in mind ANY camera can do color at night if you slow down the shutter and crank up the gain.
Andy's cameras can look like high noon at night that way, but then motion is a blur.
If you want to minimize blur with motion, you need faster shutters. The faster the shutter, the more light that is needed.
And that is where the better cameras come in because you can't set shutter speed on an arlo, so you are stuck with whatever it gives you.
But with Andy's cams, you can set shutter speed. And while that looks like enough light and should be enough light to run a 1/120 shutter, you won't know until you try. And you may find that the light is coming from the wrong direction or actually isn't as bright as it looks and the light can't get to the sensor and you then you need to run infrared.