About to run interior Cat6 cables. What else should I run for alarm/home automation?

Holbs

Holbs

IPCT+ Member
May 1, 2019
2,254
3,563
Reno, NV
I'm about to start Dremel+drywall bit cutting into my interior house drywall this coming week to add cat6 cables for interior cameras and adding LED lights and ceiling fan outlet. I have things that I have blown off for years but now I'm ready to tackle. My head hurts after jamming so much info in regards to cameras and Blue Iris stuff, that I'm sort of at a loss when it comes to alarm wiring and home automation wiring. I figure, since I will have multiple 4-5" ceiling holes for the LED ceiling lights, might as well run all types of cabling that I can before patching up and painting. I'll be adding 3 interior cameras (living room, kitchen, stairwell) + 1 2 car garage camera (IPC-HDW4231EM-ASE). 2 Cat6 cables to each location. It has a built in MIC to record audio (which I have not tested how great it is). I'll also be doing the same for future outside doorbell camera location.
My main question is more so in regards to future alarm and future home automation cabling, I guess would be called future proofing. As I understand it so far, I should home run 22/2 wire from each door & window back to a central location for window/door contacts. But the access pad/control pad (if I go that route) needs to be 22/4? And then there is glass break detectors wiring, motion detector wiring, etc. Is everything basically 22/2, except for keypad?
And then there is home automation. Any recommendations? :)
Only reason why I post this is because of the remodeling starting soon so now is best time to run all types of wires before drywall repair/paint.
My day job is low voltage wiring dude so I have all the tools to make this happen.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mat200
  1. Window contacts involve a LOT more wiring. A single glass break sensor in a room handles multiple windows very well with a LOT LESS wiring effort. Place AC power near large expanses of exterior windows if you want automated shades/blinds in the future.
  2. Door contacts are absolutely worth it. Pull two wires there, to allow sensors at the top and bottom or middle of the door. After years of rain, doors can warp and impact a top-mounted or bottom-mounted sensor.
  3. For every room, run a minimum of TWO network cables, arranged on opposite sides or corners of the room. If you can wire all four sides/corners, that is the best solution.
  4. Same goes for coax/video and sound. Minimum of TWO drops per room, four is best.
  5. Everything should be home-run to a wiring closet or utility room where the alarm is located. If the router/network gear is in a different room from the alarm, be certain to wire a network cable (or two!) to the alarm panel.
  6. Include pull strings or wires in the most difficult drop locations, to allow for future replacement of the wire. You'd be amazed at the damage rodents will inflict on wiring.
  7. Use solid-copper Cat-6 cable or better. DO NOT use copper-clad aluminum wire.
  8. Installing a network patch panel in your network/utility room is an extremely nice touch and grants you a LOT of future flexibility.

I'm not a low-voltage guy, but someone who ran Cat-5E throughout my house fifteen years ago during a major remodel. These are things I've found in hindsight that would have made huge improvements in flexibility and Wife Acceptance Factor (WAF, it's a thing.)
 
Last edited:
VorlonFrog said:
  1. Window contacts involve a LOT more wiring. A single glass break sensor in a room handles multiple windows very well with a LOT LESS wiring effort. Place AC power near large expanses of exterior windows if you want automated shades/blinds in the future.
Click to expand...
Luckily, only 2 windows in the living room, 1 window in kitchen. AC power near the windows? hmph...ok...that's advanced :) Though, will be running 14/2 romex for the new LED lights. Hmm....might have to research this a bit.
 
Holbs said:
Luckily, only 2 windows in the living room, 1 window in kitchen. AC power near the windows? hmph...ok...that's advanced :) Though, will be running 14/2 romex for the new LED lights. Hmm....might have to research this a bit.
Click to expand...
Somfy blinds are the high-end automated solution, home-grown ESP8266 or ESP32 devices can be cobbled together to provide automation.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mycatjest
took a quick look at automatic blinds. They would intefere with my existing plantation shutters. So blinds would be out. Going to look at the automatic shades next....
 
Holbs said:
..
And then there is home automation. Any recommendations? :)
Only reason why I post this is because of the remodeling starting soon so now is best time to run all types of wires before drywall repair/paint.
My day job is low voltage wiring dude so I have all the tools to make this happen.
Click to expand...

Hi @Holbs

I found this video useful:
 
Who knew Channing Tatum's older brother did smart homes!
Thanks mat...this is what I needed to know about slapping in wire and what type of wire and how many.
 
  • Like
Reactions: smole and mat200
Holbs said:
took a quick look at automatic blinds. They would intefere with my existing plantation shutters. So blinds would be out. Going to look at the automatic shades next....
Click to expand...
I didn't realize anyone outside of the Southern US would have plantation shutters. That was a pleasant surprise. :)
 
being a wood worker, I wanted to try out a project for plantation shutters for my 5'x5' main window. Came out really well :) Charred basswood. But as I read up on glass break detectors, shutters/drapes dampen & mess with the sound so might have to go with stickons.
1937105-438x.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: mat200
Holbs said:
Who knew Channing Tatum's older brother did smart homes!
Thanks mat...this is what I needed to know about slapping in wire and what type of wire and how many.
Click to expand...

Happy to help @Holbs

I do like the N+1 / N+1+ for network drops - as I often find that I just need one more cat5e/6 drop in a location.
 
I'm just a little surprised that alarm items requiring 22/2 and 22/4 wires are not yet converted to the universal cat6 cabling. Maybe one day.
Should this post be relocated to alarm or home automation subforum? Is getting away from IP camera wiring I initially was asking about.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mat200
You could run 22/4 to all the windows and use a pair for the glass break sensor.

Funny I know those blinds as "California Shutters"

Since it has not been mentioned, DSC has some very homeowner friendly install alarm systems.
 
yep, we have a bunch of 22/2 and 22/4 around the work place I'll be asking my bossman about. I have 6 LED light holes to do in the living room and some various other places. Being a 2 story home, more holes the better so that I can run a bunch of cabling now before patching up the drywall in the end. This will also be the time to add 2 x Cat6 at various locations as well, even if will not be initially used.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mat200
Lots of patching to do in my living room ceiling :) Holes drilled out, learning about "code" in relation to where and how many holes are aok to drill through joist (2" from bottom of joist...each hole to be 3-4" apart).
I'll be running romex for LED lighting and another romex for new ceiling fan bracket/outlet. Also, 2 more romex's for setting up electrical outlets near ceiling line for possibility of future crown molding led light strips.
Will run 22/6 for possible future glass breakage device. 22/4 (dont have any 22/2) for 2 windows/1 door. 2 cat6 for 1 spot in living room, 2 cat6 for outdoor doorbell station, both 22/6 and 2 cat6 for interior side of doorbell station for any alarm consoles.

It occurred to me...what about speakers? How many folk use ceiling speakers? Reading up on them... seems they are becoming less and less popular because of technology, pain to upgrade to different models with smaller/bigger circumference, odd surround direction.
 
Holbs said:
It occurred to me...what about speakers? How many folk use ceiling speakers? Reading up on them... seems they are becoming less and less popular because of technology, pain to upgrade to different models with smaller/bigger circumference, odd surround direction.
Click to expand...
I'd route speaker wires in-wall to a box two or three feet above the floor, then use banana plugs to wire them from the box to the speakers. Don't cheap out on speaker wire. 16 gauge minimum, stranded copper, with a relatively tough/resilient outer jacket.
 
plan in the growing need for wifi access points - eg ceiling via POE , especially if you are using wifi in automation
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom