Front door install with video clips

[TheE]

The camera is a 4231F-AS (3.6 mm lens). It's mounted right at 5 feet, 5 inches high from the ground.









As always, a special thanks to @aristobrat and everyone else here on the forum that helped with my questions. This was my very first IP cam install and setup, and I could NOT have done it without all your time and help... Thank you again. Now, just have about 4-5 more cameras to go

 

[handinpalm]

Good clean install. You may want to rotate your video (FOV) 90 degrees so you have better view of the entryway instead of the brick walls. May even be able to see packages sitting there.

 

[TheE]

Good clean install. You may want to rotate your video (FOV) 90 degrees so you have better view of the entryway instead of the brick walls. May even be able to see packages sitting there.

Thank you very much for your suggestion. I didn't even think of that -- do you do this through BI or manually by twisting the lens?

 

[mat200]

The camera is a 4231F-AS (3.6 mm lens). It's mounted right at 5 feet, 5 inches high from the ground.



..

Excellent job @TheE - looks great.

Do feel free to share a bit on how you cabled that location.

 

[TheE]

Excellent job @TheE - looks great.

Do feel free to share a bit on how you cabled that location.

Will do! I’m fixing to head out for a few hours. Later today I’ll try to provide some pictures of the cabling. It really wasn’t that bad; just some sweat, scratched hands, and a bit of determination.

 

[handinpalm]

Thank you very much for your suggestion. I didn't even think of that -- do you do this through BI or manually by twisting the lens?

Rotate the lens, then change the orientation in the Dahua software, so the video displays correctly.

 

[TheE]

Excellent job @TheE - looks great.

Do feel free to share a bit on how you cabled that location.

I drilled a 3/4 inch hole into the mortar of the brick wall to fit the camera's pigtails into the wall. Using a wire pull rod I bought on Amazon made this run somewhat easy... Just some patience and a bit of luck to fish the rod through the 3/4 inch hole, up the wall, and into the attic.

Here's the space between the wall where the cable comes into the attic:



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Then over here to our 2nd-floor room:



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Up and over:



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Into our bedroom closet. Using a hole saw, I drilled a 1-3/4-in hole into the wall plate to fit all the cables I'm going to use:



Hopes this helps and let me know if you have any other questions.

 

[YYZed]

I’m in the middle of figuring out the cabling run for this exact camera. Much appreciated for the video using the 3.6 lens as that’s likely what I’m going to go with since my other cameras will cover the ground area around the door.

 

[CCTVCam]

If it's not possible to alter the metering mode away from the centre alone, I'd be tempted to try putting a light with sensor in there, maybe with the sensor on the outside of the passage way so it activates before the visitor gets there. If you're worried about using a spot in such a small area, then maybe an ordinary wall mounted lamp mounted next to the door with an LED bulb would give enough fill in without glare. You could always jury rig something with an extension lead to see if it works before drilling and committing.

The issue I see atm, is you get a great view of the vehicle on the road, but the drivers face is lost when he comes into the dark passageway, which is the point at which you have most chance of making good identification. Trouble is if you adjust brightness for the passageway, you'll blow out the outside, and I'm guessing you'll probably want to see the van / his behaviour before reaching your door.

 

[looney2ns]

If it's not possible to alter the metering mode away from the centre alone, I'd be tempted to try putting a light with sensor in there, maybe with the sensor on the outside of the passage way so it activates before the visitor gets there. If you're worried about using a spot in such a small area, then maybe an ordinary wall mounted lamp mounted next to the door with an LED bulb would give enough fill in without glare. You could always jury rig something with an extension lead to see if it works before drilling and committing.

The issue I see atm, is you get a great view of the vehicle on the road, but the drivers face is lost when he comes into the dark passageway, which is the point at which you have most chance of making good identification. Trouble is if you adjust brightness for the passageway, you'll blow out the outside, and I'm guessing you'll probably want to see the van / his behaviour before reaching your door.

That's attempting to do too much with one cam.
Concentrate on getting the best face shot as possible at the door, don't worry about blowing out the scene outside the entryway. Separate cams should be covering those area's anyway.

 

[YYZed]

That's attempting to do too much with one cam.
Concentrate on getting the best face shot as possible at the door, don't worry about blowing out the scene outside the entryway. Separate cams should be covering those area's anyway.

I agree. You just need to get a solid face shot. The FOV is too wide to worry about what they're doing at the street. It's that <10ft mark that's important.

 

[CCTVCam]

Yeah I was trying to figure out a way to get you the best of both worlds. However, I agree with Looney, given the choice, the more important brightness area is inside the passage where the pixel density is the highest.

 

[jcreynoldsii]

This is a great alternative to smart doorbells. Great job and nice clean install.