help with fishing line through vaulted ceiling

[amrogers3]

I am looking for advice on how to fish two ethernet cables through Hardie board into the attic. The space where I am trying to fish the cables is a vaulted ceiling. If this isn't too difficult, I may try to do this myself, otherwise I will probably have to hire this out.

I have never fished cables so this is new to me and I am not sure the best way to go about this. Any helpful recommendations on how to do this would be most appreciated.

Camera locations

picture of roof

inside picture (don't mind the plastic tarp, we are doing some painting)

 

[sebastiantombs]

Keep in mind you're not actually over the ceiling in that location. Make sure you have access to the front soffit from inside the attic would drill a 1/2" hole through the soffit then use a standard, 1/8", electrical snake and push it up toward the peak. Hopefully there is no "blocking" between the rafters. You'd need to pay attention to the natural curl of the snake and insert it so the curl is "up" to avoid getting tangled in any insulation that may be in there.

An alternate plan, if there is blocking in the front soffit, would be to drill up from the side soffit between the second and third rafters and use the same snake technique. On the outside the cable could be routed and painted or you could use either flex r rigid conduit and paint that as well.

You can test for blocking by trying to push a snake down from inside the attic and by looking at how it's done inside the attic, IE did they use blocking or just extend the ridge and eave framing.

In my case I have access ports that were left when the house was built and I've been able to snake using them with no real problems.

 

[Smilingreen]

I would hire it out. Have them pull in whatever you need now and have them pull in a spare to boot and leave it coiled up just inside the soffit. Never know when you might want to add something else or if you have a cable that goes bad, you have an extra cable available. Never hurts to have them attach a spare pull string also. They do come in handy.

 

[looney2ns]

These come in very handy for this type of work.
From the ground, run the rod from the soffit into the attic, then in the attic attach the cable and pull it back down to the soffit.
A helper in the attic to feed the cable, can make this a lot easier.

Klein Tools 12 ft. Lo-Flex Fish Rod Set 56312 - The Home Depot

Visit The Home Depot to buy Klein Tools 12 ft. Splinter Guard Fish Rod Set 56312

www.homedepot.com

 

[looney2ns]

 

[sebastiantombs]

^^^ Those can work, too, but are not as flexible as a standard snake, That can be a disadvantage or an advantage depending on each specific situation.

 

[dudemaar]

Give the guy in the attic a couple rods with the hook attachment. Then you can try feeding your fish tape into hole hopefully working it’s way up. If not it will start coiling up inside, but then maybe attic guy can fish it with his hook. But now already your over a $150 for tools.

 

[sebastiantombs]

I use a DiversaBit with a coat hanger to extend my reach when needed. The advantage of getting the tools is that you have them for the next time you want to install a camera or anything else that needs a low voltage cable. If you're a DIYer it's a no brainer.

 

[looney2ns]

^^^ Those can work, too, but are not as flexible as a standard snake, That can be a disadvantage or an advantage depending on each specific situation.

I;ve used it all, with a vaulted ceiling, a properly aligned hole drilled in the soffit, or a piece of the soffit removed, rod aligned with the rafter cavity, aim it correctly to that it goes under the insulation, or to the side of the insulation, and most times it can be golden in short order.

 

[Smilingreen]

Oooh....I like the "Whisk" attachment. Didn't know that one existed. That would have saved me thousands of cuss words in my younger years if that had been invented........

 

[looney2ns]

Oooh....I like the "Whisk" attachment. Didn't know that one existed. That would have saved me thousands of cuss words in my younger years if that had been invented........

Yep, it works well in the right circumstance.

 

[BORIStheBLADE]

Have you been up in your attic to see how close you can physically get to this location? If you're trying to do this yourself you need to know how the wood is ran before you start drilling holes. Looking at your house I have a feeling you're in Texas? But I feel where my yellow cloud is will be the closest you can physically go.

If you can verify that roof vent while up in the attic and get close you have a chance of doing this without too many issues.

 

[CCTVCam]

Doesn't look like Hardie Backer Board as it's usually tiled upon. However, wear a mask. Hardie board is a cement board and contains silica. Silica can do nasty things to your lungs. Drilling will send dust airborn. Sorry can't help with the fishing part.

 

[amrogers3]

Have you been up in your attic to see how close you can physically get to this location? If you're trying to do this yourself you need to know how the wood is ran before you start drilling holes. Looking at your house I have a feeling you're in Texas? But I feel where my yellow cloud is will be the closest you can physically go.

If you can verify that roof vent while up in the attic and get close you have a chance of doing this without too many issues.

I am in Texas. Actually down in Houston. How did you know? I will see how close I can get. If I can only get in the yellow cloud area, would I drill from the outside and use the fish rods like @sebastiantombs and @looney2ns recommended?

Maybe try here?

 

[amrogers3]

An alternate plan, if there is blocking in the front soffit, would be to drill up from the side soffit between the second and third rafters and use the same snake technique. On the outside the cable could be routed and painted or you could use either flex r rigid conduit and paint that as well.

You can test for blocking by trying to push a snake down from inside the attic and by looking at how it's done inside the attic, IE did they use blocking or just extend the ridge and eave framing.

Hey Mr Tombs! I like your suggestion on running it outside but I need to check attic space first like you recommended to see how it is laid out.

You have a link for that "flex r rigid" conduit? I tried a google search but came up with 0.

I would hire it out. Have them pull in whatever you need now and have them pull in a spare to boot and leave it coiled up just inside the soffit. Never know when you might want to add something else or if you have a cable that goes bad, you have an extra cable available. Never hurts to have them attach a spare pull string also. They do come in handy.

I may have to end up hiring this out (bad back) but the other problem is, I dont trust anyone to do a good job. It would be great if people advertised on here.

From the ground, run the rod from the soffit into the attic, then in the attic attach the cable and pull it back down to the soffit.
A helper in the attic to feed the cable, can make this a lot easier.

A sidekick would help, good idea. Question, should I attach the RJ45 connector to one end before running through hole or what is the correct sequence for running cable?

 

[dudemaar]

[/QUOTE]

I am in Texas. Actually down in Houston. How did you know? I will see how close I can get. If I can only get in the yellow cloud area, would I drill from the outside and use the fish rods like @sebastiantombs and @looney2ns recommended?

Maybe try here?

yes that's correct. Rafters would go up and tie into that hip in that location. Also in this location they would

 

[BORIStheBLADE]

I am in Texas. Actually down in Houston. How did you know? I will see how close I can get. If I can only get in the yellow cloud area, would I drill from the outside and use the fish rods like @sebastiantombs and @looney2ns recommended?

Maybe try here?

Your house looks like all the homes being built in North Texas.

Ideally if you can drill a hole and send a fishing rod up to where another person can reach you got it. But access and wood layout can make it easy or impossible for that location. Thats why I would get a dust mask and jump in that attic.

That area with the white arrow will probably be the easiest location to get the job done.

 

[sebastiantombs]

I should have described it by its' real name, liquid tight conduit -

https://www.amazon.com/Southwire-55094221-Ultratite-Type-Non-Metallic-Flexible/dp/B000BQ7R0O/ref=sr_1_1?crid=VQKK5W0BPWRY&dchild=1&keywords=liquid+tight+conduit+1%2F2+inch&qid=1633956483&sprefix=liquid+tigh%2Caps%2C168&sr=8-1

 

[Mike A.]

Maybe try here?

That would be my first attempt. If you can get there, then you'll be good to go across in the soffit or use conduit.

Don't bother with the RJ45 until you've got it all pulled and ready. Be sure to leave yourself plenty of extra cable to work with and you may even end up wanting to move some a little once you live with it so good to have already there. As above, pull two (or however many extra) while you're there.

 

[looney2ns]

No, don't attach the RJ45 until after you have the cable ran.
Be sure to test your proposed location for at least 24hrs prior to permanent mounting of your camera.
You can do so with a 8ft 2x4, 5gal bucket and rocks for ballast.
Remember, for facial ID's you don't want to mount the camera higher than 8ft off the ground. Lower is better.