New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

carlo13

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I also wanted to capture the button press in openhab. My plan is/was to use also Homematic sensor - but a newer one: HmIP-DSD-PCB.

Best to go passive with an external to doorbell circuit switch.

1 - use a current sensor
2 - use a reed switch in the mechanical chime that triggers from the magnets in the chime.

I also tried using the hardware PIR in the doorbell and could never adjust it just right so went to an external PIR facing the door.

The old way (from early 2000's) was using an Optex Combo PIR / camera facing the door from the side.

My original configuration with the Elk 960-930 circuit boards worked with the Ring Doorbell and did not work with the Hikvision doorbell.

Both methodologies are hardwired to a zone on the Leviton OmniPro 2 alarm panel.

Another user posting here had issues with a defective power kit.
Thank you very much Pete,
I think I will try it with current sensor. I read through lot of your posts. I have two questions. I read about you connected the doorbell directly to the transformer and switched the mode to "electronically chime". But you didn't connect the "Fuze" that is part of the doorbell package and ezviz advices to put it in if you don't use a chime. Is that correct?

And second, I assume I don't need to attach some 12v transformer to the k1/2 ports of the current sensor. I can also attach a potential free switch eg the HMIp-FC1 from homematic?
 
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pete_c

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Only tested the DB with a transformer on the workbend for function. Later on moved it in to production with the chime using the power module and no fuse.

I can also attach a potential free switch eg the HMIp-FC1 from homematic?

It is whatever you want to switch on and off with the K1/2 ports on the current sensor.
 

carlo13

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Only tested the DB with a transformer on the workbend for function. Later on moved it in to production with the chime using the power module and no fuse.

I can also attach a potential free switch eg the HMIp-FC1 from homematic?

It is whatever you want to switch on and off with the K1/2 ports on the current sensor.
Thank you again! Works like a charm (at least since 24h)!
 

haku

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Guessing here that the draw of the M&S system is too much for the EzViz Doorbell.

Originally used the Ring Doorbell with no modifications and it worked well. Using the Hikvision DB I had to change transformer et al.

I would separate the Video doorbell wiring from the M&S wiring such that there are no dependencies of the DB to the M&S system.

Wire the doorbell with PS and configure the EZViz app to work as an electronic chime with no connection to anything but the power supply for the Video Doorbell.

Test it to make sure it works.

Here tested the Video Doorbell and transformer on the workbench with an extra transformer first to make sure it worked.

Then add the M&S system indirectly by using a current sensor switch on the power transformer wires of the Doorbell. The current sensor adjusted for sensitivity closes or opens a switch which would be connected to the common and 3 note post terminals.

EZViz DB ===> 2 wires ==(current sensor)===> AC Transformer *

* current sensor is just a pass through for the AC DB wires which triggers with a change in amperage draw then closes a switch.

View attachment 115803

2 wires of current sensor (K1 and K2) ==> common and 3 note post terminals of M&S panel.

Guessing if you shorted the common and 3 note terminals a chime would sound.

Hi Pete

Thanks for the reply

I connected my doorbell directly to the 24v (40va) transformer and it lit up and worked as it should (I was able to access the doorbell from the Ezviz app on my phone)

when I tried integrating the relay back into it, the same thing happens, the speaker keeps chiming non stop (without the doorbell being pressed). Interestingly, when I tested the voltage to the 2 wires prior to connecting it the doorbell it reads 25v, but when I connect it to the EZViz, the voltage drops to 6V and it keeps chimining)

I think I am not connected the relay up properly despite following the instructions that I have attached.

Can you shed any more insight?

Unfortunately I didn't have the tool you mentioned to test the M&S system out of circuirt.
 

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pete_c

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connected my doorbell directly to the 24v (40va) transformer and it lit up and worked as it should (I was able to access the doorbell from the Ezviz app on my phone)

Good news. This proves that there is nothing wrong with the doorbell.

Looked again at the install.pdf file. It relates to using the RIng doorbell. The power draw from the Ring doorbell is totally different than the Hikvision DB.

The Ring doorbell uses the two wires to trickle charge the doorbell and the doorbell can work with it own battery. The Hikvision DB only works with the two AC powered wires connected to it and will not power up with its built in battery.

My old db connectivity using the Elk 930 and Elk 960 boards (installed in the early 2000's) worked with the Ring doorbell. The Elk 930 is a current sensor and the Elk 960 is a debounce circuit board.

Here is a discussion using the combo circuit (Elk 930/ Elk 960) with the Sky HD doorbell in 2018 on a DIYer forum with Leviton OmniPro and Elk M1 combination alarm panels (and automation panels).

ELK 930/960 Combo and SkyBell HD integration

The Elk 930 current sensor did not work with the Hikvision doorbell.

Don't use the relay as it is drawing too much power to make the Hikvision DB work versus using the Ring Doorbell.

Right now, I have 2 (of 4 original) wires from the EZVIZ power module connected to pins 13/14 of the relay (not sure if orientation matters), the second of wires from the EZVIZ power module (there are 4 in total, 2 white, 2 black), 1 set is connected to the '3-note' wire from my M&S system, the other set is connected to the to the "R" terminal of the 24v transformer.
The M&S "common" wire, I connected to the "C" terminal of the 24v relay.
Terminal 5 of the relay is connected to the "common" on the M&S PCB

Terminal 12 of the relay is connected to the "3 note" on the M&S PCB (I originally tried terminal 8 of the relay per the install instructions I was following, but it didn't work and kept chiming non-stop)
Have the current sensor switch enable power with a separate transformer using the passive contact switch.

Autonomous transformer ==> passive current sensor switch ==> two terminals on intercom. One common from the transformer and one switched from the passive current sensor.

Watch this video to use a resistor for a chime less connection.


Then do the passive current sensor one one of the two power wires for your intercom connection. This will be two autonomous circuits which will trigger your intercom chime and not affect the voltage to make the video doorbell work.

Testing in vivo...

Your app / video doorbell will work fine. Your passive circuit sensing switch will work fine to trigger your intercom chime.
 
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haku

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connected my doorbell directly to the 24v (40va) transformer and it lit up and worked as it should (I was able to access the doorbell from the Ezviz app on my phone)

Good news. This proves that there is nothing wrong with the doorbell.

Looked again at the install.pdf file. It relates to using the RIng doorbell. The power draw from the Ring doorbell is totally different than the Hikvision DB.

The Ring doorbell uses the two wires to trickle charge the doorbell and the doorbell can work with it own battery. The Hikvision DB only works with the two AC powered wires connected to it and will not power up with its built in battery.

My old db connectivity using the Elk 930 and Elk 960 boards (installed in the early 2000's) worked with the Ring doorbell. The Elk 930 is a current sensor and the Elk 960 is a debounce circuit board.

Here is a discussion using the combo circuit (Elk 930/ Elk 960) with the Sky HD doorbell in 2018 on a DIYer forum with Leviton OmniPro and Elk M1 combination alarm panels (and automation panels).

ELK 930/960 Combo and SkyBell HD integration

The Elk 930 current sensor did not work with the Hikvision doorbell.

Don't use the relay as it is drawing too much power to make the Hikvision DB work versus using the Ring Doorbell.




Have the current sensor switch enable power with a separate transformer using the passive contact switch.

Autonomous transformer ==> passive current sensor switch ==> two terminals on intercom. One common from the transformer and one switched from the passive current sensor.

Watch this video to use a resistor for a chime less connection.


Then do the passive current sensor one one of the two power wires for your intercom connection. This will be two autonomous circuits which will trigger your intercom chime and not affect the voltage to make the video doorbell work.

Testing in vivo...

Your app / video doorbell will work fine. Your passive circuit sensing switch will work fine to trigger your intercom chime.

for the passive sensor current switch do i need a normally closed or open switch (or does not matter)?

also since i will be putting the switch in the wall, is there any concern with over heating or heat issues? do I need a UL rated one for insurance purposes?
 

pete_c

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for the passive sensor current switch do i need a normally closed or open switch (or does not matter)?

The passive current sensor is a switch. It is not a current transformer (CT). I purchased one that is normally open and with current draw closes.

also since i will be putting the switch in the wall, is there any concern with over heating or heat issues? do I need a UL rated one for insurance purposes?

None. The doorbell wire just passes through. Loop it a three times like so.

current sensor.jpg

This current sensor is on Amazon for ~ $17 USD. There might be smaller ones available. Will post a picture of my set up here in the US (near Chicago).

Dimensions of a 4 X 4 metal electrical box are typically 4 X 4 X 1.5 inches. I am a bit old fashioned here and prefer metal conduit / boxes for electric over plastic and romex. That is me though.

I have my set up (current switch) mounted in the basement rafters next to the doorbell transformer with wires going to the doorbell chime in metal conduit up to the first (main) floor and wires going to the doorbell button (now Hikvision DB).

Note Input is just a shielded wire that runs though the whole. Are you in the United States?

I have seen some UL approved current sensors. That said I would say that the above mentioned current sensor would fit in the "limited energy" (low voltage) classification like HVAC controller boards and Alarm systems stuff. (IE: doorbell wires and Thermostat to HVAC wires).

Here installed LED lighting under and over kitchen counters and not see the 120VAC to 12VDC transformers used. I custom built LED tracks for the lighting. I put the transformers in 4X4 electrical in wall boxes adjacent to the 120VAC 4 X 4 switch box. The LED lighting is switched on and off with a regular wall switches. I then wanted to be able to manually dim and automate the lighting. I used a MagicHome 5 channel controller (used one channel) / Espurna / digital pot. Tiny all in one controller fitted next to the 12VDC output.
 
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hpadmin

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Hi,
i have still problem with flash my EZVIZ DB1C, FW 5.3.0 - 211208, Batch Conf Tool 3.0.2.5 ... target FW Hikvision DS-HD1 200321.
When i upgrade it, still same error Upgrade Failed (when upgrade).
Help pls, THX
 

pete_c

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I do not know about flashing the newer EZVIZ DB1C video doorbell. I would not flash this device with Hikvision Video Doorbell FW posted here.
 

David L

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Hi,
i have still problem with flash my EZVIZ DB1C, FW 5.3.0 - 211208, Batch Conf Tool 3.0.2.5 ... target FW Hikvision DS-HD1 200321.
When i upgrade it, still same error Upgrade Failed (when upgrade).
Help pls, THX
It is best to post on this Thread:


You will see me in that Thread, I am not aware of build 211208 for the DB1C, I only have seen two builds, 201106 (Nov. 17, 2020) and 211011 (Nov. 03, 2021), when did you get this newer build?

Our Thread is for the older DB1 and variants...
 

flynreelow

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It is best to post on this Thread:


You will see me in that Thread, I am not aware of build 211208 for the DB1C, I only have seen two builds, 201106 (Nov. 17, 2020) and 211011 (Nov. 03, 2021), when did you get this newer build?

Our Thread is for the older DB1 and variants...
I've got build 211208 on my db1c. Think it was downloaded and installed automatically
 

David L

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I've got build 211208 on my db1c. Think it was downloaded and installed automatically
You did not get a prompt? I don't like that, we used to be prompted.

Well I downloaded it to add to my DB1C firmwares. I keep all the ones for all the DB1 variants here too.

I bought a DB1C when is was on sale, of course you did too. I figure I would keep these builds when I ever install mine. Always good to be able go back if needed.

So any new New features? The EZVIZ App used to list what's new. Maybe just fixes since a few were complaining about 211011 build...
 

David L

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Hi,
i have still problem with flash my EZVIZ DB1C, FW 5.3.0 - 211208, Batch Conf Tool 3.0.2.5 ... target FW Hikvision DS-HD1 200321.
When i upgrade it, still same error Upgrade Failed (when upgrade).
Help pls, THX
I do not know about flashing the newer EZVIZ DB1C video doorbell. I would not flash this device with Hikvision Video Doorbell FW posted here.
Pete is right, Do Not try to use a firmware for the old DB1 on your DB1C...they are two completely different hardware.
 

flynreelow

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You did not get a prompt? I don't like that, we used to be prompted.

Well I downloaded it to add to my DB1C firmwares. I keep all the ones for all the DB1 variants here too.

I bought a DB1C when is was on sale, of course you did too. I figure I would keep these builds when I ever install mine. Always good to be able go back if needed.

So any new New features? The EZVIZ App used to list what's new. Maybe just fixes since a few were complaining about 211011 build...
Haven't noticed any differences
 

flynreelow

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Did you experience the dropped connections others were mentioning on the DB1C 211011 build? Just curious...
Zero dropped connections. Some stuttering during playback but that could be a wifi issue or a failing SD card
 

David L

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Zero dropped connections. Some stuttering during playback but that could be a wifi issue or a failing SD card
Kewl, maybe one day I will jump ship :), these are the firmwares I have collected for the DB1C:

1644117928957.png
 
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JB_Sullivan

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This thread has become soooo long that I'm having a hard time finding the information I'm looking for. Specifically, I have an EzViz DB1 1C doorbell.

I have now picked up the rtsp stream with the extension 101, which gives me a fisheye preview. In the EzViz app, however, there is the option to switch between fisheye and horizontal image.

Is this horizontal image also output as an rtsp stream? If so, what would the call be? Or is this just a software story that is generated exclusively in the EzViz app?
 

David L

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This thread has become soooo long that I'm having a hard time finding the information I'm looking for. Specifically, I have an EzViz DB1 1C doorbell.

I have now picked up the rtsp stream with the extension 101, which gives me a fisheye preview. In the EzViz app, however, there is the option to switch between fisheye and horizontal image.

Is this horizontal image also output as an rtsp stream? If so, what would the call be? Or is this just a software story that is generated exclusively in the EzViz app?
It is best to post in the DB1C Thread:


This is the DB1 Thread
 

m4ha7m4

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For anyone with the LaView One Halo version of this cam having issues making the a doorbell chime work make sure you are using firmware from LaView and initialize the camera using LaView's App.

My mechanical doorbell chime would not work using other firmware, regardless of the app or if set up using a manual connection.

I was trying to avoid any cloud based apps by manually connecting my camera using the Nelly's "Windows LAN" instructions but the mechanical chime would not work, even if I connected the camera to the LaView app (hit or miss with different firmwares).
 
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