New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

[David L]

Is it possible not to get a compressed image from the RTSP stream.. can I change the resolution somehow or use a stream command line to fix? guess what I really want to do is change the Aspect Ratio when viewing using FFMPEG / Home Assistant

You have those options in Hikvision's Batch Config. Tool

Full Frame = 30 FPS

 

[EricLEE]

Well, the DB1c you lose resolution so that isn't good. The main thing I would gain would be able to capture the button presses for home assistant. In the context of this forum, I wouldn't gain much in terms of the actual camera and that is why I keep cancelling my order for the amcrest. In terms of quality life improvements through the 180 VFOV is super nice for its intended purpose of seeing the ground. Outside of the app though that does lead to some viewing issues. Screens are 16x9 so you end up with big black bars on every display you use the camera on outside of their app which is annoying. I have home assist send the video feed to my google home hubs when frigate detects a person, which on the 7in means the video feed is really small so if it detected someone in the yard and they don't come close to the door it does make it hard to see. Also since the video to my tv which again even on a 55in tv means the actual video is 1/3 of the screen. The way my front door is to I think would actually benefit from the wider HFOV as my door faces straight out but the stairs come from the right. 105 hFov vs 164 hfov.

Capturing the button presses would let me disable the chime and use my google homes to announce someone is at the door. That alone would allow me to disable the announcement when I am working or asleep. Alternatively, it would allow me to turn on lights, play louder alarms at night too. I also use deep stack on top of frigate to do facial recognition, this would allow me to run the recognition when the person actually presses the button vs hoping to get lucky with a good capture in the yard or on the stairs, again this allows me to announce different things on the google homes depending on who it is. I tend to get the same, USPS, and UPS person so I can have it tell me it is a package vs someone unknown. Some of this I am doing already just letting frigrate control all the notifications vs using the button but the button would add an extra dimension to it and make it more accurate.

The canned response also sounds really nice especially if I can access them in home assistant too. Even in the app that sounds nice as it does take a while for Ezviz to spin up the two-way talk. 99% of the time I use the two-way talk it is to tell doordash to leave the food and f**K off. Salespeople just get the f**k off part of the conversation and 99% of the time I say the same thing. Thank you for bringing me food please leave it and I will grab it in a second, especially since covid is a thing and I don't feel like being face to face with these people. The image I am getting from my ezviz also isn't the greatest unless the person is directly at my door which is expected but more resolution never hurt nobody.

I managed to strech the output from frigate to fill the 16x9 screen from my DB1 and get rid of the black bars on the sides, but still not happy with the image format. Anyone want to buy a used EZVIZ DB1

 

[MAHV]

This should be the step-by-step procedure, based on my experience:

Use camera's vendor app to upgrade to the latest official version of the official firmware
Use Batch Config v3.0.2.6 (not the latest one) to upgrade Firmware (SYSTEM->SYSTEM MAINTENANCE->Remote Upgrade)
Use Batch Config v3.0.2.6 (from main screen) to Reset the config of the cam (check the following screenshot)
View attachment 62050
The camera should reboot automatically after this reset, if not, reboot it
Using the PC, connect to the AP of the camera softap_serial#, the wifi password is softap_authcode (seria#: s/n of the cam - authcode: 6 char authcode)
Reboot
Connect to the camera again (like in step #5)
Use Batch Config v3.0.2.6 to change default SSID from softap_serial# to EZVIZ_serial# and the password to EZVIZ_authcode (expected values for EVIZ app, mind the uppercase)
Reboot
Check with the PC the list of available wifi APs:

If you see the softap_serial# AP, it means you didn't change the SSID, so go back to step #8
if you see the EZVIZ_serial# AP, proceed with next step

Start the mobile app (EZVIZ on android playstore or Hik-connect available here: Hikvision App Store) and configure it like a brand new camera

I hope I didn't miss any step, let me know in case I did. This is the procedure I used some days ago, but I just wrote it out of my head now, so it has to be validated by someone who's doing the upgrade now so we can correct it. Please let me know.

NOTE: This is a general procedure for upgrade to another vendor's firmware, I don't know if Laview/Nelly's firmwares have differente AP names, you just need to adapt it to their specific differences but procedure is the same. If someone with Nelly/Laview firmware can tell me what AP they see after the upgrade, we can generalize the procedure.

(tag for @David L for 101 update)

Today I've gone through your procedure to change firmware for EZVIZ DB1 to Hikvision's firmware. A few things were different, indicated below for each of your steps:
2. Good to know that Username=admin and Password=<Verification code>
6. Reboot did not work, I had to disconnect the power to DB and restart BCT. Device is visible as "not activated" and should be Added using IP=192.168.8.1 and above login-info (read somewhere else: don't activate, because then you have to provide a new password)
8. After Adding the device, the menu-option "Batch Configuration" is greyed out. Instead use the option "Remote Configuration" (gear-icon behind the device) should be selected, giving a popup where you go to Network -> Wi-Fi to change SSID and password as indicated above.

Apart form this, THANKS for the great info.

 

[gnuB]

I’m using Camect in addition to NVR so I’m going to do some testing this week to see if this is what is causing my issue. I’ve been running this setup for several months and this issue only started happening recently.

Did some experimenting to see if I could fix the issue. Completely powered down both NVR & Camect, then rebooted db and tested playback through GuardingVision and Hik-Connect apps, both still give error.

 

[MAHV]

So today I was also able to get my chime working, my steps were similar but slightly different, so posting here for completeness...

Hardware: Hik-Vision DS-HD1
Prior Firmware: Hikvision 200321
Previously configured via BCT only and placed on restrictive IOT VLAN.
Was unable to configure via any phone app, and in addition to the chime, no DNS calls etc were being made on doorbell press.

Step 1: Uploaded EZVIZ firmware 200220
Step 2: Hard Reset, to include removal of power, holding in reset button while re-applied (resets admin PWD as well)
Step 3: Added temporary firewall rule to IOT VLAN to allow all outbound connections

[At this point, attempted to add device using an iPhone SE-2 running iOS 14.2 and the EZ-Viz app and Hik-Connect app... all failed at the "Connect to device wifi" step, even when I manually joined to network]​

Step 4: Using an iPad Mini running iPad OS 13.4.1, ran setup successfully at least partway.

[This reached the "Device Setup" stage, and then it would not progress past a "Light Linkage" page, as when I pressed save it would merely go back to the previous page... but at the previous page I could get the device QR code]​

Step 5: Switching to the iPhone, finished adding the device using the QR Code from the iPad.
Step 6: Under "Device Settings" was able to select the chime type and set to mechanical (was set to "No Chime). Viola... at this point the doorbell is working, and also is sending notifications back to the app
Step 7: Connected via BCT and saved configuration file
Step 8: Took full packet capture of bootup and chime press, saw DNS call to alarm.use.s3.amazonaws.com as others have reported, followed by a port 443 connection.

[Confirmed ONVIF unavailable as expected, also noted inability to change admin password or add additional users from BCT]​

Step 9: Updated to firmware 200321 from within the EZVIZ app [Note that this is EZVIZ 200321, not Hikvision 200321 as there is an EZVIZ logo superimposed on the ONVIF video stream]
Step 10: Added "viewer" user using BCT, confirmed ability to now connect via ONVIF, and adjust motion detection zones. Note that the secondary video stream must have it's resolution set to CIF before the main stream can be edited as the 200220 firmware used resolution not supported under 200321 apparently and so you'll get an error when you try to save.
Step 11: Confirmed chime still working, and that EZVIZ app still showed the option to set mechanical/electronic/none.

[Note somewhere in here my viewer account permissions disappeared and so my NVR was suddenly unable to start recording... but since it was a valid user/pass, the "test" feature still reported success... this took longer to figure out than it should have... but adding the permissions in again via BCT worked fine an all is well again on the ONVIF front]​

Step 12: Add firewall rule blocking all outbound traffic except port 443 to the applicable amazon regions
Step 13: Changed encryption password in EZVIZ app.
Step 14: Saved Config File.

So now I have a working chime, working ONVIF recording on the local LAN with camera-driven motion detection zones for event recording, and doorbell presses cause notifications in the phone and I can tap a button or two and see the doorbell video/audio. The only thing that won't work is the ability to see video after button presses when my phone is not on the local LAN, but that's my preference. Also all the "dial home" packets are being blocked as confirmed by the firewall.

I can definitely redirect the cam's port 443 traffic to a local IP using (outbound) port forwarding, which would then make local notifications outside the EZVIZ app environment easier, but then the app notifications break. I did see in the packet capture a reference to MQTT, so I would suspect that's the protocol in use for the doorbell.

I would like to get this working on EZVIZ DB1, but can't find EZVIZ firmware 200321, I can only see 200220 or 211011 as latest firmware. Also it looks like you've got EZVIZ firmware working with ONVIF, although page 101 states that EZVIZ firmware does not support ONVIF functionality. Can you please let me know where I can find EZVIZ firmware 200321 and confirm that this firmware does support ONVIF.

THANKS!!

 

[David L]

I would like to get this working on EZVIZ DB1, but can't find EZVIZ firmware 200321, I can only see 200220 or 211011 as latest firmware. Also it looks like you've got EZVIZ firmware working with ONVIF, although page 101 states that EZVIZ firmware does not support ONVIF functionality. Can you please let me know where I can find EZVIZ firmware 200321 and confirm that this firmware does support ONVIF.

THANKS!!

200321 is Hikvision's firmware not EZVIZ's. Most here use 200321 since it does support ONVIF where EZVIZ's firmware does not.

HTH

 

[MAHV]

200321 is Hikvision's firmware not EZVIZ's. Most here use 200321 since it does support ONVIF where EZVIZ's firmware does not.

HTH

Thanks for reply, according to step 9, @misally is convinced that EZVIZ firmware is running on the doorbell, and that simply by adding a new user (step 10, apart from admin), the ONVIF functionality is working.

 

[David L]

Thanks for reply, according to step 9, @misally is convinced that EZVIZ firmware is running on the doorbell, and that simply by adding a new user (step 10, apart from admin), the ONVIF functionality is working.

Yeah I see where you caught him labeling build 200321 as EZVIZ firmware when in fact it is Hikvision's, maybe it was the EZVIZ Logo that through him off.
Adding to the confusion, Hikvision owns EZVIZ and the Doorbells are the same yet they both have different firmware's and Apps, we assume this is for marketing since EZVIZ markets to consumers more.

To date the only firmware's we found that support ONVIF are the Hikvision, LaView and Nelly's
LaView was the firmware of choice until Hikvision released their version of the Doorbell.

200321 works fine on the DB1...

 

[pete_c]

Here noticed some changes to the configuration which appear to work well with no freezing of the DB over a period of time.

Using Hikvision Batch Configuration....Image ==> Video and Audio

NOTE: here do not utilize the cloud app (no Android app is running), BI and Zoneminder and touchscreen views only.
ONVIF PIR to MQTT is no longer used. Put a PIR facing the door outside for motion detection and to trigger captures.
Doorbell button to chime also triggers events.

I also edited the Monocle Monocam proxy server to Alexa Show with same settings and Alexa Show pop up is much faster these days.

 

[TechBill]

I am not sure how long it been in the app store but there a app for EZVIZ that I haven't see before called EZVIZ for desktop. I started a new thread on about it over at EZVIZ Mac Tablet/Desktop version software in app store - new?

 

[MAHV]

Using the HikVision Batch configuration application here have disabled audio and motion detection. It seems to be working. For a long time I was using the Onvif to hardware motion detection but it was way too sensitive and I could never reallCany adjust it.

I also installed a tiny 433Mhz outdoor PIR facing the doorbell on the front porch. This device connects to a Sonoff 433Mh hub converted to Tasmota to produce MQTT messages on motion. Works great.

Video wise using BI on a Windows 2016 server and Zoneminder on an Ubuntu 20.04 server. Working most of the time. Video out goes to the above servers. I do direct connects from the OmniPro Touch screens and indirect connects to tabletop combo touchscreens. I also have a Kodi plugin that will pop up video that works OK but I do not like the interruptions.

Relating to a physical push on the doorbell button and chime connection this still works just fine. Digitally here using a current sensor and debounce circuit board to the alarm panel zone which triggers chime sounds and TTS on the automation servers and TTS on the Amazon Alexa devices.

Can you please elaborate a little bit more on you hardware setup indicated by "Relating to a physical push on the doorbell button and chime connection this still works just fine. Digitally here using a current sensor and debounce circuit board to the alarm panel zone which triggers chime sounds and TTS on the automation servers and TTS on the Amazon Alexa devices."?

I don't get the EZVIZ Chime to work with DB1 with Hikvision firmware, so now trying to use powerkit over relais, but that starts flippering as soon as IR-leds turn on...

Thanks!!

 

[pete_c]

Will look for the schematic I posted. Its just an Elk-960 debounce board and current sensor which triggers a zone on the alarm panel. An event is triggered by the alarm panel zone which talks to Homeseer / Home Assistant. Homeseer does a doorbell announcement with Microsoft SAPI and HA does the same using Alexa (Alexa Media Player plugin).

so now trying to use powerkit over relays

The current sensor is adjustible.

 

[MAHV]

Will look for the schematic I posted. Its just an Elk-960 debounce board and current sensor which triggers a zone on the alarm panel. An event is triggered by the alarm panel zone which talks to Homeseer / Home Assistant. Homeseer does a doorbell announcement with Microsoft SAPI and HA does the same using Alexa (Alexa Media Player plugin).

so now trying to use powerkit over relays

The current sensor is adjustible.

I found your detailed post here: Hikvision Doorbell and OmniPro panel to Elk 960 and Current sensing switch - HomeSeer Message Board

With "so now trying to use powerkit over relays" I mean that if you can use the powerkit parallel on a mechanical chime, it should theoretically also work if I use the PK parallel to a relays to steer a second circuit. However this is not stable, the DB1 fluctuates it's power consumption too much depending on e.g. IR-leds on/off.

 

[pete_c]

Ahh....

Yes here have been using the original power kit that came with my Nelly DB. At the time I did up the original AC transformer. Ended up with a "gong" instead of a chime and then replaced my old chime with a higher voltage chime to get chime sound back. This has continued to work fine.

I do not recall what size transformer I purchased. It is much larger than the old transformer.

I did notice the voltage amperage fluctuations when adjusting the voltage sensor to get the "sweet spot". I do have the DB set not to turn on the IR-Leds / change to black and white while the porch light is on here. After 1-2 AM the porch light switches off.

Personally I would get the basics going...basics ==> mechanical chime with DB working...

Then once this is done and working leave it alone and go with a non invasive methodology of an adjustable current sensor to trigger automation. Even easier is just to put a reed switch next to the magnet in the doorbell chime (2 extra wires) and use the chime magnets to trigger the reed sensor.

I did also tap in to the built in DB hardware PIR using ONVIF to MQTT. It was much too sensitive. I then installed a wireless outdoor 433Mhz PIR facing the door. It is doing MQTT for motion detection and works well outside.

Personally the schematic shown comes from around 20 plus years ago getting the doorbell integrated to the OmniPro 2 alarm panel. It was a combination of an Elk 930-960 circuit panel with an aux 12VDC power supply (from the alarm panel). Done in the days before the video doorbell in the early 2000's. I did have an Optex combo camera facing the front door at the time. Trigger sensors were the doorbell, Optex PIR and Geophone sensors under the front walk. For outdoor motion detection it has always been difficult to use video algorithms outside no matter what was done to tweak it. (insects, birds, trees, sun always get in the way -

90% of the doorbell rings are due to motion and not presses of the doorbell these days.

 

[haku]

hi

i have a ezviz db1 with a MS intercom (MS MC170).

I purchased a transformer that does 8, 16 and 24v, i hooked it up to the 24v 20va option, a 24v relay, and connected everything up, when i measure the voltage at the door bell, it reads 24-27, however the relay LED is constantly lit, and the video doorbell keeps chiming non-stop as if someone was repeatedly pressing on the video doorbell

i followed the connection instructions i found off reddit to connect everything, but i am not sure what i am doing wrong

is it possible that the transformer is not strong enough? (only 20va, not 40va)?

relay: URBEST HH52P AC 24V Coil DPDT 8 Pins Electromagnetic Power Relay w DYF08A Base : Amazon.ca: Automotive
transformer:

https://www.lowes.ca/product/doorbell-parts-accessories/utilitech-wired-door-chime-transformer-63548

if anyone can shed some light, i would be grateful (maybe the instructions arent correct?)

thank you

 

[pete_c]

Can you make a quickie drawing of your connectivity?

I purchased a transformer that does 8, 16 and 24v, i hooked it up to the 24v 20va option, a 24v relay, and connected everything up, when i measure the voltage at the door bell, it reads 24-27, however the relay LED is constantly lit, and the video doorbell keeps chiming non-stop as if someone was repeatedly pressing on the video doorbell.

So the intercom functions as a chime eh? Do you also have a doorbell chime in place?

Guessing right now that the relay is drawing too much power on the circuit to function with the doorbell.

is it possible that the transformer is not strong enough? (only 20va, not 40va)?

You are OK with current transformer of 20 VA.

I would do an alternative methodology for the function of the 24v relay function to the intercom. Do you have a schematic of MS MC170?

I recall playing / tinkering with my father's home intercom / Nutone master system in his home in the 1980's. The master controller provided intercom functions throughout the home and outside deck and music via a built in tuner plus aux audio which I tinkered with at the time.

 

[haku]

Can you make a quickie drawing of your connectivity?

I purchased a transformer that does 8, 16 and 24v, i hooked it up to the 24v 20va option, a 24v relay, and connected everything up, when i measure the voltage at the door bell, it reads 24-27, however the relay LED is constantly lit, and the video doorbell keeps chiming non-stop as if someone was repeatedly pressing on the video doorbell.

So the intercom functions as a chime eh? Do you also have a doorbell chime in place?

Guessing right now that the relay is drawing too much power on the circuit to function with the doorbell.

is it possible that the transformer is not strong enough? (only 20va, not 40va)?

You are OK with current transformer of 20 VA.

I would do an alternative methodology for the function of the 24v relay function to the intercom. Do you have a schematic of MS MC170?

I recall playing / tinkering with my father's home intercom / Nutone master system in his home in the 1980's. The master controller provided intercom functions throughout the home and outside deck and music via a built in tuner plus aux audio which I tinkered with at the time.

Hi

So I have an original doorbell at the front door, and when pressed, the intercom speaker makes a chime noise (ding dong). I assume this is electronic as ther eis no mechanical things that move.

I tried looking for a schematic but to no avail (perhaps too old)?

I didn't know, but I ended up ordering a 24v 40va and still I am having the same issue.

Right now, I have 2 (of 4 original) wires from the EZVIZ power module connected to pins 13/14 of the relay (not sure if orientation matters), the second of wires from the EZVIZ power module (there are 4 in total, 2 white, 2 black), 1 set is connected to the '3-note' wire from my M&S system, the other set is connected to the to the "R" terminal of the 24v transformer.

The M&S "common" wire, I connected to the "C" terminal of the 24v relay.
Terminal 5 of the relay is connected to the "common" on the M&S PCB
Terminal 12 of the relay is connected to the "3 note" on the M&S PCB (I originally tried terminal 8 of the relay per the install instructions I was following, but it didn't work and kept chiming non-stop)

Originally, the "common" wire is green on the PCB and "3 note" is yellow (there is actually another 1-note yellow wire that I dont know what to do with).
Those 2 wires go to the existing front door, door bell button.
I tested the yellow and green wires at the front of the door bell button and it read 24V, I connected these 2 wires to the EVIZ (no particular orientation). Right now the EZVIZ only has 2 red lights, and reads 7V when connected

thanks for taking the time to reply, I really want to get this going and I see others have had success, but not sure what I'm doing wrong. I think it's the way I hooked up the wires to the relay? perhaps I don't even need the EZVIZ power module (the instructions I followed talk about a NEST chime, which I assume is similar to the EZVIZ powermodule?))

 

[pete_c]

Guessing here that the draw of the M&S system is too much for the EzViz Doorbell.

Originally used the Ring Doorbell with no modifications and it worked well. Using the Hikvision DB I had to change transformer et al.

I would separate the Video doorbell wiring from the M&S wiring such that there are no dependencies of the DB to the M&S system.

Wire the doorbell with PS and configure the EZViz app to work as an electronic chime with no connection to anything but the power supply for the Video Doorbell.

Test it to make sure it works.

Here tested the Video Doorbell and transformer on the workbench with an extra transformer first to make sure it worked.

Then add the M&S system indirectly by using a current sensor switch on the power transformer wires of the Doorbell. The current sensor adjusted for sensitivity closes or opens a switch which would be connected to the common and 3 note post terminals.

EZViz DB ===> 2 wires ==(current sensor)===> AC Transformer *

* current sensor is just a pass through for the AC DB wires which triggers with a change in amperage draw then closes a switch.



2 wires of current sensor (K1 and K2) ==> common and 3 note post terminals of M&S panel.

Guessing if you shorted the common and 3 note terminals a chime would sound.

 

[carlo13]

I've installed my new Ezviz DB1 last weekend and I'm really happy with my setup. I had a Ring 1 before, but without the subscription (I don't want to pay 30€ per year only for recording). I'm running openHAB with many different devices and thought it would be really cool to integrate the camera too. My Ring Doorbell was also integrated, but only via ifttt. I've configered the doorbell button to send a signal to openhab via ifttt to trigger my chime (Google Home speakers). There is also a hue bulb at the frontdoor which were triggered by the motion detection inside my Ring (also via ifttt). This setup was sometimes very slow and for sure...it doesn't work without internet.

The Ezviz DB1 worked very well out of the box (fast, stable, good image), but also doesn't have any open interface for the doorbell button or motion detection. Thanks to you guys here! I've found my perfect solution:

First of all i've flashed the hikvision firmware to get ONVIF support. That makes it possible for me to 1.) get motion detection working with onvif2mqtt, 2.) add the camera easily to my synology surveillance station, 3.) get a live jpg snapshot to view on my openHAB UI. The next thing was the doorbell button. I've seen many different solutions in this thread, but most were not possible in germany. I couldn't find the devices (with shipping to germany) or the shipping fee was very high. But i've found a Homematic doorbell sensor (HM-Sen-DB-PCB) which is working with 2 x AAA batteries for 5 years and costs about 25€ for a building kit. You have to solder some parts, but nothing difficult. This device needs a Homematic bridge, which I already own because my heater thermostats are also from homematic. And now comes the cabeling. I could use my 28 year old 8V transformer. Two lines from the transformer came out of the wall where my chime hung before (not working since years) and two lines go from there to my doorbell. I've used the fuse, to bridge one line directly to the doorbell. I've connected the other two lines to the power pack und the power pack in parallel with the homematic module. I've used my old mechanical chime as a housing (cutted out all unnecessary parts like the magnet) so that I wasn't necessary to drill new holes and it looks like before.

My result is that I have still information about motion and doorbell rings in my openHAB system to ring my chimes (Google Home Speaker and lights) and turn the light outside on and it is much faster now then before (no more ifttt). I have live snapshots in my smart home UI and can record everything to the internal SD or to my surveillance station with pretty good quality.

Just wanted to let you guys know how I solved my problems and maybe the homematic sensor should be listed in the 101, to help others with the same problem. If you have questions, just ask

Ah...and one last thing. It would be really great if I could add my Ezviz DB1 to Google Home. It was integrated before i've flashed the hikvision firmware. After flashing i've disconnected it from Google Home to reconnect it again, but now I'm getting an error, that the settings could not be saved. Does anybody know if this is a general issue on ezviz's site at the moment or does it have to do with the hikvision firmware? Does anybody got it to work on a Ezviz with Hikvision firmware before? I've tried to find such an information in this thread, but couldn't find something useful with the search function.

@Riza-Aslan and others,

I bought an Eziviz DB1 this week. I also wanted to capture the button press in openhab. My plan is/was to use also Homematic sensor - but a newer one: HmIP-DSD-PCB.
I have an issue that I don't know how to figure out. Attached is the connection plan.
The transformer is an Ezviz 12/24V. As the sensor only allows 12V, I connected the the 12 V port of the transformer.
So, the issue is, when I plug in the the transformer, the doorbell boots up and after some seconds it goes off again. Then I can only unplug and plug the transformator again to make it work again (for another few seconds). The sensor seems to work, I make it listening to voltage drop by corresponding switch on the sensor's board and configured the Ezviz DB1 for mechanical chime. If I have the chance to press the button, the sensor communicates successfully with openhab.
Sometimes, it doesn't power off and seem to stay on continuesly. I can not really say why and what is different when it stays alive.
If I directly connect the Doorbell with the transformer without sensor and power kit, it always works and stay alive.
Is anybody having an idea what I could try ?

BTW, I went to the hikvision firmware. But the same behavior was already existing with Ezviz' before the flashing.

 

[pete_c]

I also wanted to capture the button press in openhab. My plan is/was to use also Homematic sensor - but a newer one: HmIP-DSD-PCB.

Best to go passive with an external to doorbell circuit switch.

1 - use a current sensor
2 - use a reed switch in the mechanical chime that triggers from the magnets in the chime.

I also tried using the hardware PIR in the doorbell and could never adjust it just right so went to an external PIR facing the door.

The old way (from early 2000's) was using an Optex Combo PIR / camera facing the door from the side.

My original configuration with the Elk 960-930 circuit boards worked with the Ring Doorbell and did not work with the Hikvision doorbell.

Both methodologies are hardwired to a zone on the Leviton OmniPro 2 alarm panel.

Another user posting here had issues with a defective power kit.