I have a pull from the basement up an insulated wall, then 6' horizontal between insulated floor joists. I have plans for 6 runs, and I'm planning to run 4 futures. It is all shielded cat6.
Is there any downside to using a shielded patch panel in the basement and attic so I don't have to guess lengths or pull so much through.
Nothing wrong with patch panels assuming they're good and you get things punched down right. Most all larger networks have a bunch.
That said, don't want unnecessary panels. Easier and cleaner in most cases to just pull the cable. Still need the same cables either way. Usually you'd want a panel where you need/want to break things out, have other equipment to patch in, or otherwise transition for whatever reason. I prefer to use a panel at the main termination where most of the equipment is and patch over from there. Keeps the premise wiring in/on the wall and separate from the hardware/rack. Easier to punch all of that down vs terminating a bunch of cables, stranded patch cables are easier to manage, and you can relocate things easier. With just 10 runs not a lot of difference either way.
I have a pull from the basement up an insulated wall, then 6' horizontal between insulated floor joists. I have plans for 6 runs, and I'm planning to run 4 futures. It is all shielded cat6.
Is there any downside to using a shielded patch panel in the basement and attic so I don't have to guess lengths or pull so much through.
I like to run the bulk cat5e/6 from the camera position to a central patch panel which I will put the PoE switch either above or below the patch panel in a location which I can access without too many challenges ( trouble shooting can be a real pita if you have to go into a hot attic or ..
Been there, done that....more than once. Now I check with a stud finder and drive a long screw or 16d finish nail through the floor where I want the hole to be. Saves a lot of cussing.
I was going to use a patch panel where my switch is but ended up not using it as I didn’t see the point as each cable is labelled and once plugged into the switch I probably will never ever move it.
why the shielded Cat6? Going near 3phase motors?
Patch Panel vs Modular Plug Crimp-on Ends:
Mod Plugs win for time of termination. At least for me, it's faster.
Patch Panel win for ease of termination. Patch panels come with color coded paper on the backside to assist with color code punch down.
Mod Plugs win for physical labor. Sit on your stool and terminate. Patch panel, you have to sometimes do gymnastics to get behind the patch panel to terminate, especially weeks/months down the road when you add more drops. Easier if patch panel is on a swing gate.
Patch Panel wins for how things look in the end. Mod Plug termination can easily get out of hand and really look ghetto.
Patch Panel wins for organization. You have space on the patch panel to label ports, easily readable. Mod plugs you have to flag which sometimes falls off. Can add wire managers under the patch panels to hide the patch cords. Just looks more professional.
In this situation, especially a house environment...I'd go Patch Panel.
I prefer patch panel that is not populated. Terminate the Cat6 on a jack and then seat it in the patch panel. No gymnastics needed, plus can have colored jacks.
Been there, done that....more than once. Now I check with a stud finder and drive a long screw or 16d finish nail through the floor where I want the hole to be. Saves a lot of cussing.
I didn't think a stud finder would work through the floor sheathing and the 2x6 bottom plate. Definitely not enough room to swing a hammer even if I could see the nail. There was no easy point of reference, and it took a while to get all of my measurements lined up for all 3 levels.
I pulled through the garage attic 6' horizontal to the wall drop
I laid it out on paper the find the elevation of a gang box that would let me get two ¾" holes through the double top plate. Obviously had to do 1 pull of 5 through each hole. I couldn't get it to turn the corner very well so I pulled 30' into the closet, then back down the wall.
Then an easy pull to the basement
This is how I laid out my access elevation. The 2x6 wall made it pretty easy, and I just hoped it was actually a double plate and not something weird.
I just need to find some cord to leave in the wall in place of the green wire.
That wasn't much fun, but holy hell do I have options now!
My house is limited on cable routing and I do some ham radio stuff. I just figured for the price I'd rather just run the best I can and hope to not have problems.
Hmm... just thinking of future folk who run cable that come across this post and think they have to put shielded cable in their home.
We wired 400+ Cat6 cables for the local radio station here. No mention of the need of cat6 shielded and no complaints (7 years going).
Granted, their transmitter would be hundreds of feet away. Never investigated how a ham radio nearby transmitter would affected un-shielded Cat6
I haven't either, I was just a precaution for me. It really is nothing like a broadcast station. There can be common mode current on the shield of the coax that can, and will radiate. Being in an HOA community, I need to hide my coax and antennas.. For the amount of money I'm going to have in this system, the better cable is nearly irrelevant to me. I could very likely run the cheapest clad cat5e on Amazon and never have a problem.
When I said to use a stud finder I meant on the wall above where you want to drill, then drive a nail or screw down through the floor for a locator from below.
When I said to use a stud finder I meant on the wall above where you want to drill, then drive a nail or screw down through the floor for a locator from below.
I was trying to drill inside the wall from below. I knew where the studs were upstairs. I measured from to toilet water line to the closet wall, then from the other side of the wall to my location upstairs. I then measured from the water line, and cheated away from the floor joists a bit. I cheated a bit too far.
I'm disappointed about the hole in the closet, even though I'll run a cat6 there too. I'm sure if I hired someone to do it they would have just knocked holes everywhere and conduit because it would be easier.
:Noodle Tube" would work for the conduit rather than traditional PVC. Flexible and on a roll, but you'd want to use 1" or larger so that also means bigger bits for bigger holes making location very important. I fished from the attic down through a wall into the basement without too much trouble. I lined things up as best I could between the two, then use a three foot piece of toilet chain on the end of a pull string dropped down from the attic. Went into the basement with a neobednuim(SP) magnet taped to the end of a coat hanger and fished it right out in less than a minute.
:Noodle Tube" would work for the conduit rather than traditional PVC. Flexible and on a roll, but you'd want to use 1" or larger so that also means bigger bits for bigger holes making location very important. I fished from the attic down through a wall into the basement without too much trouble. I lined things up as best I could between the two, then use a three foot piece of toilet chain on the end of a pull string dropped down from the attic. Went into the basement with a neobednuim(SP) magnet taped to the end of a coat hanger and fished it right out in less than a minute.
If I had to do it again, I would probably pull the carpet back 6' in the upstairs bedroom and cut an 8" hole in the floor. A straight wall drop and 6' fish would have been so much easier.
It can be done. Just treat it as a cable. Maybe cut the end your pulling into a taper and tape it so it's smoot and will be easier to get through holes, but it certainly can be done.
