Funning 12 volt devices with a POE switch for electricity only.

mackmadera

mackmadera

Pulling my weight
Jul 22, 2022
102
190
United States
I'd like to do it by using the POE switch for electricity only. You get very little energy loss vs 12v when you run 48 volts and then step it back down to 12v with a splitter. Not to mention that the cabling is a lot more friendly than running wires for 110v. This is for long runs across my property. The POE switch wouldn't be connected to my computer network. I wouldn't need the ethernet cable part of the splitter, just the 12-volt connector. Do they make an adapter with a 12v connector only?
 
I wonder if I could just wire an ethernet cable to take power only from the splitter. Then you'd use the step down with the POE splitter on the device end. The data pins wouldn't be connected, just the 12v barrel connector.
 
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TonyR said:
Consider this => TRENDnet Gigabit PoE Splitter, 1 x Gigabit PoE Input Port, 1 x Gigabit Output Port, Up to 100m (328 ft), Supports 5V, 9V, 12V Devices, 802.3af PoE Compatible, PoE Powered, Black, TPE-104GS

or this and just tape up or cut off the RJ-45 "data out" cable => Waterproof 802.3af PoE Splitter, PLUSPOE 12V Power Over Ethernet for Non-PoE Devices IP Cameras up to 328 Ft from PoE Switch & Injector, 10/100Mbps
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That;'s pretty much all I've been finding. I was hoping someone would make a cheap, dedicated "power only" splitter. It's just not the best, imo if you're cutting and taping. I was hoping someone would just have a barrel connector only on the other end. If you do find it, it's going to be overpriced. At any rate, since it's just an isolated switch with no uplink, there's not a lot to go wrong except losing a $20 poe switch.
 
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mackmadera said:
At any rate, since it's just an isolated switch with no uplink, there's not a lot to go wrong except losing a $20 poe switch.
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Where did you find a "$20 poe switch" ? Do you mean a "POE injector"? :idk:
 
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TonyR said:
Where did you find a "$20 poe switch" ? Do you mean a "POE injector"? :idk:
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I have several of these.

Also bought some on closeout from Amazon for $16, 4 POE ports at 65 watts. So you could run two 30 watt led lamps with one of those. They put out an amazing amount of light. Mine have motion sensors on them. I also have IR illuminators. Very convenient to do it with ethernet cable vs 110 volt wire. If it doesn't work, it won't break the bank: :).
 
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Amazon has 20 pages of 48 volt DC to 12 volt DC converters. Most will not have the type of connector your are looking for. Pick a device that is suitable for your current (power) range, voltage requirements and price range. However, not sure how well regulated these devices are but for running a DC LED lamp voltage regulation is not of great importance.

When working with these types of devices cut the wires, strip, tin and use a wire nut to complete the connection. For a better connection solder the wires together, but in the long run that will make it more difficult to remove the connection. However, it is much better for outdoor use.

If you are experiencing a voltage drop in the Ethernet cable because of it length, then tie 4 wires together to make up one pair of conductors that consists of 4 wires. A good color combination is tie the blue/green (4 wires) for the negative side and the orange/brown (4 wires) for the positive side. Strip, twist together and solder together. This will decrease the overall run resistance and I squared R losses.

Many POE switches will only provide power when properly connected to a load. Make sure your wiring scheme is correct for this application. Just plugging in an open ended RJ-45 to the switch will most likely not result in any power being delivered to that circuit.\
 
Alaska Country said:
Amazon has 20 pages of 48 volt DC to 12 volt DC converters. Most will not have the type of connector your are looking for. Pick a device that is suitable for your current (power) range, voltage requirements and price range. However, not sure how well regulated these devices are but for running a DC LED lamp voltage regulation is not of great importance.

When working with these types of devices cut the wires, strip, tin and use a wire nut to complete the connection. For a better connection solder the wires together, but in the long run that will make it more difficult to remove the connection. However, it is much better for outdoor use.

If you are experiencing a voltage drop in the Ethernet cable because of it length, then tie 4 wires together to make up one pair of conductors that consists of 4 wires. A good color combination is tie the blue/green (4 wires) for the negative side and the orange/brown (4 wires) for the positive side. Strip, twist together and solder together. This will decrease the overall run resistance and I squared R losses.

Many POE switches will only provide power when properly connected to a load. Make sure your wiring scheme is correct for this application. Just plugging in an open ended RJ-45 to the switch will most likely not result in any power being delivered to that circuit.\
Click to expand...
That may be the case. It could also mess up the switch. But it's worth the $20 to me if it works ok in a stable way. You figure I would wire a few things to one switch. I have everything here, I'm gonna try it. The advantage, of course, is you can run the cables a lot farther with thinner wire at 48v, vs dealing with thick wires to deliver the same energy at 12 volts..
 
Alaska Country said:
Many POE switches will only provide power when properly connected to a load.
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FWIW, no truly compliant 802.3af/at POE switch or POE injector (PSE) will power a device (PD) that is non-compliant with 802.3af/at. :cool:
 
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TonyR said:
Understood.

What about the device I mentioned in post #7 ?
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Pricey for me. Figure I've got a total of $16 + 4.5 per cheap active splitter in this for 65 watts of devices in 4 locations (plus ethernet cables). I'm sure your choice is better quality. I'll see how long it lasts, if at all.
 
This is a 30-watt LED motion light. I got the $16 POE switch and the $4.50 power splitter from Amazon. I could do a second light. I can't find 10-watt LEDs with motion detectors for reasonable prices. The very cheap 10-watt motion lights cost as much as these 30-watt one of much better quality,..






IMG_3018.jpgIMG_3018.jpg
 
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So basically you had everything to accomplish your goal when you created this thread this morning and when on to do so..... :wtf:
 
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TonyR said:
So basically you had everything to accomplish your goal when you created this thread this morning and when on to do so..... :wtf:
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Unsure of exactly what to do, I wanted to see other's experiences. Just started thinking seriously about it and wondering if anyone knew a better way before I tried this. Does that bother you? If so, you might be spending too much time online for your mental health. wink.
 
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looktall said:
How much are they?
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They're both at $25 a light. When I bought these 3 or 4 years ago, they where like $6 each. If you look on Ebay, the 110 volt 10 watt lights are still cheap. All of these lights last about 2 years. You just have to accept it if you want 12 volt motion lights.
 
I was wondering because you can buy a POE motion floodlight from Reolink.
They're AUD$99 (no idea what that is in freedom units) which is a lot more than your lights but they will just run straight off a POE switch without having to figure out what other parts you might need to purchase and have the added bonus of being controllable.

reolink.com

Reolink Floodlight | IoT Device for Smart Home Security | Reolink Official

Reolink Floodlight is an IoT device that can work with Reolink cameras and NVRs to illuminate monitored areas at night. It has motion detection and audio alerts and is available in PoE and WiFi versions for different security needs.
reolink.com reolink.com
 
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