observant1
Getting comfortable
If it's plugged into a smart switch, you may need to make sure the port it's plugged into is configured properly. - just a shot in the dark.
Unable to modify camera IP
- Thread starter Sailboater410
- Start date
In regard to your IP Confog Tool question i believe the answer is no, except for an uninitialized camera on DHCP rather than static.
Its hard to find cams on another net for basic users.
I can see why they buy Blink and Reoklink and wyze
Its hard to find cams on another net for basic users.
I can see why they buy Blink and Reoklink and wyze
Ip config is on my task bar. It's good if your tinkering around with cameras. It's sort of like "find inspect" in BI. For instance, I bought this 4116 Amcrest used from a guy on IPCT. No idea what IP it had, but Config tool found it sitting at .0.178
Yes!
I can't promote ConfigTool too strongly here or I'll get voted off the island. I always use it for new cameras and think it's a lot easier than messing with the windows settings. It does have one major gotcha in that after you initialize a camera you have to change the ConfigTool password to match what you set in the camera, before changing the camera's IP address. It's not an obvious step and can waste a lot of time until you learn about it the hard way.
Flintstone, I change my PC IPv4 settings exactly as you say above in your Step 1. I think I see the problem: I'm plugging the cam into the switch (which is both PoE and Ethernet) and the switch is still (maybe?) configured to my .10 subnet. Me changing the PC IPv4 to .1 subnet doesn't affect the switch. So I need a 12v injector and direct connect to the PC it sounds like. Note: the TP link injector I tried previously is 24v. I have a Unifi injector that is 48v so that's no good either. Hmmm, nice set of standards for this stuff. Need to look in my box of electrical goodies, I did this before last year!
Need to fill in some blanks: I did do a factory reset as some earlier posts suggested, and I did use Angry IP to search from both 192.168.1.1 to .255, no hits. Did the same with .10 subnet and it did indeed show my cams and other gear. The new cam is invisible!
Similar result using config tool: shows all my .10 cams but no .1 cam, despite specifying .1.1 to .1.255 in the search criteria.
I'm off to go find a 12v PoE injector.
Similar result using config tool: shows all my .10 cams but no .1 cam, despite specifying .1.1 to .1.255 in the search criteria.
I'm off to go find a 12v PoE injector.
Wow, it fixed itself. After taking a break for 3 hours I gave it one more shot by (again) changing Ethernet IPv4 to .1, opened Config Tool, and up came all my cameras including the new one. Oddly, even though I've never had an opportunity to manually change the camera IP, it came up with a .10 subnet all by itself. It was listed as Unitialized but initializing was easy. And this was with the cam plugged into the Unifi switch same as before.
Thank you everyone for replying, I appreciate all of your suggestions.
Thank you everyone for replying, I appreciate all of your suggestions.
Glad it all worked out. I vaguely recall having an uninitialized camera do just that. It was such an anomaly ( like seeing a UFO) that I figured I'd be better off not mentioning it here.
No, you do not need a "12v PoE injector", you need either a 12VDC wall wart OR a 802.3af/at-compliant POE injector.
What is the part number of that "Unifi injector that is 48v" ?....it may work OK for you.
Just to clarify the terms, an "injector" , in the IP camera realm at least, implies a device that puts voltage and data on the Ethernet cable to a POE camera.
The device you need is a device that plugs in to the wall, converts AC (usually 120VAC) into DC, in this case 12VDC. For these IP camera's power connector the coaxial male connector measures 5.5mm on the outside collar (the DC negative) and 2.1mm for the inside female (the DC positive).
For most IP camera this power supply (I call them "wall warts") does not need to provide more than 2.0 Amps of current, usually 1.5A is sufficient. If in doubt, check the camera specs.
The most import considerations are, IMO:
1) Be UL-listed
2) The connector conform to the size above
3) The DC polarity conform to the above
4) Be capable of supplying no less than 1.5A
Same here....I must have 2 dozen or so from Linksys routers and AT&T and CenturyTel modems, all 12VDC with the correct connector, polarity and UL listing, just different current capability. If you were closeby I'd give or send you one but it sounds like you're all set any way.
