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Got the lockout message again today using IE and chrome on Win10, except the first message said 21 minutes, instead of 30. I can log in fine with iOs. I logged in a couple of days ago without getting locked out, so not sure what the 21 minutes is today. Everything else works fine, shrug. Maybe...

Don't you have to use the password on the front of the device (under the front panel near the QR code) to activate it first?

same version iOS app as TimTech, but my doorbell firmware is 1.4.62 180515. i can't see any supplemental light settings either (sorry, was just going off the update notes for that one), but the settings page has a few more items, including Custom Audio Management, which I assume means you can...

just a quick note to say hit-connect received an update today, and amongst the new settings is one called "Auto Answer" that initiates the connection with the doorbell without giving you the chance to view who is there. this is enabled by default for some reason, so i switched it back to off...

updated iOS last week, my LTS app got updated yesterday, and lo-and-behold, just a black screen when the post was delivered this morning, so once again i can't see whose at the door before actually answering the phone. have to do the switcheroo back to Hik-Connect or Uniden and see if they...

nah I just switched the account over to the LTS app using the same method you described previously...the doorbell press notifications can only go to one application (havent tried sharing...), and you have to 'unbind' any other app that was previously registered to receive doorbell notifications...

yes, after getting the doorbell working with the uniden app, i found it did stop sending notifications through after i missed a delivery. i installed the LTS Connection version of the app and switched the doorbell account over to that, and it has been working fine since. its really bugging me...

sorry for the late update - finally got around to this, and YES!! it is working again as described above. took a bit of effort to reset the device and delete it from my hik-connect, but finally back to how it was. thanks muchly for the advice - until another update borks it again I guess...!

this is usually a wifi problem - your phone (app) and doorbell need to be on the same ssid. did you change your phone's wifi ssid or the house wifi name recently?

had a knock at the front door today, and yup, still no video on the iPhone Hik-Connect app. its just a black call screen similar to a normal phone call. wtf is this...the video is the whole frigging point of having the camera doorbell, and they remove that function? smh...going to try some of...

Seems like the HikConnect app received an update recently... Do people still get the option of live view when someone presses the door bell, before actually accepting their 'call'? These days I'm just getting a black call screen liked a normal phone call without any live video... I'd like to...

its been a couple of months so i thought i might update this. the doorbell is going fine and the image is great. night is fine too, as there is a sensor porch light so video is hardly ever in IR mode. notifications also seem to work via hikconnect (although other than my own testing, Ive only...

all connected up in parallel with the alarm plug pack, seem to be no adverse effects (alarm is reading normal voltage, doorbell is fully operational) now just to sort out the other little quirks with this doorbell, like "No platform access" when i hop onto another ssid with my phone, and not...

cheers for the reply - will try connecting it up in parallel and see how it goes. yes, i used the resistor included in the hik box and had that wired up in series on the test bench. alarm plug pack is definitely AC. wonder what the current draw with a chime would be...wont be adding one...

recently picked up the original hik AC version of this and got it running on a 24V 1.0A test bench. all seems good and connected to wifi, receiving incoming call notifications through hik-connect when on mobile data. couldn't seem to record motion events to my nvr, but haven't tinkered around...

thanks for this - had to turn the Telnet function on in Windows (relatively easy, google it). which columns are we actually looking out for? Obviously cpu% is cpu load; what is VSZ etc?

5 at 1080, 3 at 720 from memory. Quite extensive motion detection so it's not like all of them are recording constantly. i would say at any given time 2-3 might be recording something.

same WD purpx (3TB) drive and 3MP cams connected to all 8 inputs here, but no real correlation to what is happening in the videos. under "operation" the log shows "abnormal shutdown" but the system never goes into a coma as such. it stops responding, and then half a minute later it is back up...

mine does this everynow and then, figure it was from the heat cos it is located in the pantry. might add some vents up there. coincidentally, it mostly happens when i'm blasting through the menu options too fast, it's like the system can't keep up. that said, I was having dinner the other day...

Just had a 3332 turn green during day mode a few days ago. remove cables/reboot unit didn't fix it, contacted aliexpress seller and they suggested reset to default by logging into the camera itself. that seemed to fix the issue and it is fine now. just had to reconfigure motion, time, name etc...

in iMVS 4500, there is an icon along the bottom dock where you can select "balanced" "fluent" "clear" or "custom". click custom and make sure it is on the sub stream. you could also drop the resolution and frame rate from the same config box for smoother playback P20 in the manual (Android)...

use the "main stream" and "sub stream" settings in the NVR or cam image settings to configure different resolution/frame rate etc for each mode. make sure your phone is set to sub stream, otherwise a 3MP feed will most likely bog your phone down.

what's "VT"?

I'm not too savvy with this stuff (wanted to keep it simple with router-NVR-cams) so others might be able to chime in, but I would have thought your last image would be the best for your situation? And you should be able to log directly into the cams because they aren't behind the NVR. As long...

Not entirely sure, but it looks like the cameras ARE behind NVR (in effect) with what you have proposed. If you get an NVR with POE outputs, there's no need for the switch (unless you are talking about a huge number of cameras?) Surely this would be better if your switch has enough ports...

It has been explained pretty clearly elsewhere on the forum - the NVR let's you access the cameras behind it by punching a hole through its own NAT with a different set of ports. If you want to access cameras behind the NVR, use the appropriate port number and Virtual Host will let the data...

The above method works for accessing cameras. It's just a bit of work if the NVR is located elsewhere, in my case at the top of the pantry, so I have to take my laptop there and rearrange cables. I don't need to do it often though. Note that you obviously loose a POE port while plugging your...

What steps would you recommend for remote access to prevent unauthorized access? At the moment I am using a no-ip dynamic DNS host with a long name, non-standard HTTP port and a long password. I have read about setting up a VPN into the router to enhance security even more. Woud you recommend...

The config screen on my NVR says V3.0.5 build 140508

Sure, its been in the news everywhere over the last week. Some examples from today: http://money.cnn.com/2014/11/20/technology/security/hacked-web-cameras-russia/index.html?hpt=hp_t3...