1U POE Switch/AC Searge Suppressor Combo Install?

Mike K

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[FONT=&amp] Here is a very interesting and space saving switch, (Tripp-Lite), for a rack enclosure as illustrated below. This 1U built-in operates with 120volt on the power side and Cat6a cable on the Ethernet side (front). However, as you can see from the installed photo below, (the POE side showing), in the application with a door that will cover the front side, of the enclosure, the cables would likely be crushed.

The exception would be:

If there is a right angle cable end/Plug?

OR, if the entire switch is recessed in the rack? This case is desired and in fact the [/FONT][FONT=&amp]depth of the unit is about 11" and the depth of my desired rack is 14". My question here; is there hardware available that will accommodate a mid point relocation of the [/FONT][FONT=&amp]switch? Spacers?


[/FONT][FONT=&amp]24-Port Gigabit Ethernet Switch w/ 12 Outlet PDU, 2 [/FONT][FONT=&amp]SFP and 8 POE+ Ports
AC Switch combo for rack - front.jpg
AC Switch combo for rack - back.jpg

AC Switch combo for rack - Installed .jpg


[/FONT]
 
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TechBill

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It look cool but what the total watt on that PoE+ ? The total watt is what you want to look for in PoE switches not the "features".

Lots of rack are built with a gap between the door and the mounting brackets so the cables coming from the units will just bend sideway/downward/upward slightly and the door should be able to shut fully without harming the cables.

Bill
 

Mike K

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This is what the maker says:

Features 8 POE+ ports, which support up to 30W per port and a POE budget of 120W, using standard Cat5e or better cabling

1.44kW 12A 120V Basic Power Distribution Unit (PDU) with 12 NEMA 5-15R AC outlets


I have no idea if this is good or not? I suppose it relates to heat in the enclosure.
 

Mike K

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It look cool but what the total watt on that PoE+ ? The total watt is what you want to look for in PoE switches not the "features".

Lots of rack are built with a gap between the door and the mounting brackets so the cables coming from the units will just bend sideway/downward/upward slightly and the door should be able to shut fully without harming the cables.

Bill
I think it would be a pretty sharp bend for most Ethernet cables. I'm worried that it could force the ends out of the interface. I'm thinking worst case i could saw some spacers using some metal pipe and longer bolts..... maybe. It would be iffy.
 

TechBill

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I think it would be a pretty sharp bend for most Ethernet cables. I'm worried that it could force the ends out of the interface. I'm thinking worst case i could saw some spacers using some metal pipe and longer bolts..... maybe. It would be iffy.
Have you purchase the rack yet? I have a half size rack (about 5' tall) and my mounting brackets are adjustable it can go deeper inside or move up closer to the door. It slide and bolts on a rail once I am comfortable with the gap between unit and door.

If I needed more gap, I just loosen 4 bolts and slide it deeper into the rack then tighten up it giving more gap up front.

If you haven't purchase it yet, try download the manual on it and measure how deep it is and check to see if mounting bracket on both side sits on a rail and are adjustable.

Bill
 

TechBill

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Here what mine look like, it hold a server, router, modem, switches, Two DirectTV boxes, and a HDHomeRun. I use extenders to playback media at each TVs in the house.

Two photos attached, one with door open and other with door closed. You probably noticed there 2' of unused spaces on the bottom, it sit in my basement and sometime during heavy rain it will flood a couple of inches down there so I am keeping it all high as possible :D

Bill
 

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TechBill

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Bill, Are you able to adjust the depth of each shelf you put in the rack??

Some shelves are only half of the length of rack and some shelves are adjustable. I have both adjustable and fixed shelves installed in my rack.

Bill
 

Mike K

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It looks like all your equipment is mounted at the same depth??


"Adjustable shelf" ill look for that
 

nayr

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the mounting rails on most racks can be moved forwards/backwards to accommodate various configurations.. your not mounting any deep servers, so you should be able to scoot them back and accommodate room for cabling up front.
 

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It looks like all your equipment is mounted at the same depth??


"Adjustable shelf" ill look for that

The mounting rails there are one on each sides which is about the same height as the rack itself and normally are brass in color (it not actually brass but steel plated in nickle and brass) that you can see in my photo is where all the shelves and units are bolts onto.

The mounting rails can be slide back deeper into the rack if I need more gap in front behind the door so it slides everything that is bolted on it deeper into the rack or you can slide it back up front closer to the door if you get what I am saying.

Bill
 

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nayr

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and if you look closely at that image near the ground strap you see there are mounting bosses on the horizontal bottom brace, they are also on the top brace and what hold those mounting rails, hence they can be put at any position you desire.. right on the friggin door.. or half way back or 2 inches or whatever works.

what ever you do figure out where you want those mounting ears first, because to change it later means you gotta tear everything down..
 

Mike K

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I'm still not getting it. if the equipment is not bolted in place and just sits on a shelf that moves foreword or back, why not just put it on a fixed shelf and slide the equipment back and forth on the shelf?? or is that what you are saying?
 
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TechBill

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I'm still not getting it. if the equipment is not bolted in place and just sits on a shelf that moves foreword or back, why not just put it on a fixed shelf and slide the equipment back and forth on the shelf?? or is that what you are saying?
No I thought you were asking question about shelves, it an entirely a different subject.

All equipment that have rack mount ears (U1 switches/routers, U2,U3,U4 servers/storage etc) which are bolted on directly to that rails that you see on each side of the rack cabinet. Most rack cabinet are designed that you can move that rails further back into the cabinet or closer to the door but it have to set and bolted down first before you start putting equipment on the rails.

If you put the equipment on the rails and decided you need more gaps, then you will have to unbolt all the equipment off the rails and adjust the rails then bolt it all back on the rail again.

The shelves are for equipment that does not have rail mount ears like modem, portable storage etc. Since those equipment does not have mounting ears to bolt on that rails then you will need to add a shelf in there to put those equipment on.

Bill
 

Mike K

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This is what the maker says:

Features 8 POE+ ports, which support up to 30W per port and a POE budget of 120W, using standard Cat5e or better cabling

1.44kW 12A 120V Basic Power Distribution Unit (PDU) with 12 NEMA 5-15R AC outlets


I have no idea if this is good or not? I suppose it relates to heat in the enclosure.
Did anybody think this switch combo was any good?


I finally got the adjustable rack feature through my thick head.
 

nayr

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the switch looks fine, it combines a few things you want into a single unit.. but it also combines a few points of failure.. but it should be pretty good equipment, I have alot of TrippLite PDU' and they never let me down..
 
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