2MP 1/2.8" sensor camera

yikes there is this cam in 2.8mm / 3.6mm / 6mm....is it like they say bigger is better??
That is focal length. This is when the original questions come into play.

2.8mm only sees so far and is wider angle.
3.6mm sees further, but is usually about 90* FOV.
6mm sees even further, but again, has a narrower FOV.

Here is one of my threads with different cameras and FOVs that can hopefully show the difference and when each is ideally used.
 
For instance, here is a 2.8mm focal length vs a 3.6mm focal length.

2.8mm lets you see more, but you lose detail.
Deck 2023-03-30 02.10.14.743 PM.jpg

3.6mm narrows the FOV, but you get much better detail.
Back_Yard 2023-04-03 03.24.21.348 PM.jpg
 
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2.8mm only sees so far and is wider angle.
3.6mm sees further, but is usually about 90* FOV.
6mm sees even further, but again, has a narrower FOV.
do you have a number on the FOV for the 6mm or does it vary depending on exact model purchased?
and wow your grass is amazing!!...please give your neighbors some pointers ;)
 
do you have a number on the FOV for the 6mm or does it vary depending on exact model purchased?
and wow your grass is amazing!!...please give your neighbors some pointers ;)
You can see the specs if you scroll down in the details. This is also why it is recommended to go with a varifocal (T54IR-ZE) unless you know the focal length you need. With the -ZE you are able to adjust between 2.7mm and 12mm.

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Varifocal set to 2.7mm
Alley 2023-03-27 09.19.30.533 PM.jpg


Varifocal set to 12mm
Alley 2023-03-27 10.45.51.299 AM.jpg


And, yes. I have a thing for my lawn.
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I like big sensors not really into the little ones.
was reading about not chasing MP's and thought the 2MP 1/2.8" was the "best"

2MP on the 1/2.8" may be the best based on distance to IDENTIFY. A 2MP varifocal optically zoomed to a distance of 80 feet with a focal length of 40mm will outperform an 8MP on a larger 1/1.2" sensor with a 2.8mm focal length at 80 feet.

If night performance is your criteria, then you need to select a camera on the proper MP/sensor ratio. It needs to be green if you want nighttime performance.


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Sensor sizing can confuse a lot of people LOL. Manufacturers probably have the sensor size the way they do to confuse people.

It is simple division:

1 divided by 3 equals 0.333

1 divided by 2.8 equals 0.357

Is a 1/2.8" sensor bigger than a 1/1.8" sensor? Most people say yes LOL. But it is a fraction, so the 1/1.8" sensor is the bigger of the two. A 1/2.8" sensor is smaller than a 1/2.7" sensor.



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do you have a number on the FOV for the 6mm or does it vary depending on exact model purchased?
Look in the camera specs for the FOV. It varies according to the focal length and sensor size, as well as the exact model.
 
You can see the specs if you scroll down in the details. This is also why it is recommended to go with a varifocal (T54IR-ZE) unless you know the focal length you need. With the -ZE you are able to adjust between 2.7mm and 12mm.

Varifocal set to 2.7mm
oh wow huge difference in the FOV....so its a give or take situation...either you get more FOV or more clarity....pick one
 
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oh wow huge difference in the FOV....so its a give or take situation...either you get more FOV or more clarity....pick one

If you are not yet sure what lens (2.8mm, 3.6mm, 6mm) is best for you. He offers a 2.7mm–12mm Vari-focal model that allows your to adjust the setting from the web interface.

The vari focal model is aprox $30 more
 
oh wow huge difference in the FOV....so its a give or take situation...either you get more FOV or more clarity....pick one
Bingo.

The mentality a lot of people have is they want to see everything, but when it comes time to use their capture as evidence they lack the detail. It also doesn't help that most Box systems will come with 2.8mm cameras and only exacerbates the problem.

One camera cannot do it all.

You cannot see everything and still see details. Getting good details does not allow you to see everything; it is a give and take.

This is why a good system will have cameras that complement each other. This is also why a PTZ is a complement to a good, already established system and should not be heavily relied on by itself.

When planning your system and layout start by focusing on choke points and set up fields of view to capture details and give the ability to ID. This means all this camera will be able to do/see is the very narrow scope of its job. You can then deploy a more general overview cam to give context to the details. This overview cam can support one or more of your choke point ID cams.

For instance, as an extreme example. I am deploying this camera. It's only job is to see people walking down the path behind my house. This is what I see 99% of the time when I look at the feed.
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However, this is what I see when someone walks down the path, 95' feet away.
1734455126325.png

I then have these two cameras I can use to get a better idea/context of what they were doing and where they may have come from or gone to. The kill zone is between the green lines and the camera is on the fence at the bottom, center of the picture. You can see someone just entering the KZ and the 3.6mm focal length of this cam gives absolutely no details other than it might be a person.
1734455155012.png

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This is the person in the above wide angle shot, and there is no way you would have been able to tell it was a male, in a red, flannel shirt, with sunglasses, and a receding hairline.
1734455175390.png


You should look at your system as an investment.

Many here will say that the 5442 / 54IR mentioned/linked above is the best bang for the buck and I would need to agree with them.

I started with Lorex (they use Dahua cameras). I bought and installed a Lorex analog MPX system. They were 2MP cameras in 2.8mm focal lengths. I then won a Lorex giveaway and was sent a 2K IP camera system with 2 turrets and 4 bullets and ran the two systems in parallel.

I managed to get a usable capture of a neighborhood vandal, but it wasn't all that great. It mainly confirmed the suspect, but wasn't good enough to search someone down.

What ultimately pushed me to using Blue Iris and Loryta/Empiretech cameras was when my house was struck by lightning; it took out my Lorex systems and I needed to start over. Cameras multiply like rabbits; once you can see part of your property you will want to see all of your property. This is especially true when something happens and you realize there is a hole in your coverage.

A properly spec'd Loryta/Empiretech camera and system may increase your budget a little, but the goal is to have usable footage. I look at my camera system as an investment; let's say the whole thing has cost me $5000. That is a lot of money, but I now have a higher chance of catching the vandals, thieves, stranger dangerers, etc that come around my house and, because of this, have a greater chance of recovering my loss. If I had not made the investment I would likely be out my loss PLUS adding on the cost of the system for the next time it might happen. We get posts all of the time with people reacting to a loss Stolen Lawn Equipment and Tools

I have had a couple friends get interested in putting in a system, but it never goes anywhere once I tell them it's more than just slapping up a couple cameras from Costco. It does take work, but once set up with quality equipment you should be good to go. One of them recently had a tractor stolen and still has not put a proper system in place.

Buy once, cry once, and get experience and knowledge along the way.
 
Bingo.

The mentality a lot of people have is they want to see everything, but when it comes time to use their capture as evidence they lack the detail. It also doesn't help that most Box systems will come with 2.8mm cameras and only exacerbates the problem.

One camera cannot do it all.


What ultimately pushed me to using Blue Iris
lots of good stuff in this post thank you!!
on BI let's say i go this route...ok I have 5 cams running POE those ethernet cables all get plugged into a POE switch ---> Computer running BI
 
Correct. The zoom and focus will be adjusted by going to the camera's IP and using the interface, the same with all of the other exposure and image settings.
ugghh its such a pain using the IP....i finally get everything correct running into my NVR then of course the IP range is diff so cant access the web then if i change to view the web then i have to change back....and EVERY time i screw something up here
 
ugghh its such a pain using the IP....i finally get everything correct running into my NVR then of course the IP range is diff so cant access the web then if i change to view the web then i have to change back....and EVERY time i screw something up here
I believe with newer NVRs you can access the camera's UI through a link within the NVR that opens a web browser.

With Blue Iris, you will always open a web browser manually, enter the IP, and then log in to the camera.