Annke WZ500 info
- Thread starter tedly
- Start date
Hello friends, I am sending my working link to the camera, maybe it will be useful to someone.
'ass'- your own or blank password
To reboot
To main stream
To sub stream:
led light off:
Beautiful !!!!
btw with mine when the CBR is set after reset the bit rate does not increase to the value set. First you must set to VBR and then back to CBR.
To set to VBR change the BitRateControlSelect=1 to BitRateControlSelect=0
eg
VBR Set
curl -s --user 'admin
ass' '192.161.10.241/form/ExtVideoparaCfg?ie6need=on&Payload=0&resolution=37&framerate=25&IPRate=50&BitRateControlSelect=0&quality=4&BitRate=6048000&_=1703415212493' then CBR Set to get correct bitrate.
curl -s --user 'admin
ass' '192.161.10.241/form/ExtVideoparaCfg?ie6need=on&Payload=0&resolution=37&framerate=25&IPRate=50&BitRateControlSelect=1&quality=4&BitRate=6048000&_=1703415212493'
Last edited:
Thanks ya'll for this thread. Found this when searching why my camera was resetting every day at 1am and why the spotlight would keep turn on even when I turned it off via app and set timers to keep them off.
To the point I outright painted over all the lights.
Sometimes it'll automatically recall to my previous ptz preset not just 0. Kept trying to fix the video view for it but the plugin is out of date.
Outside of the daily 1am camera reinit and sometimes when shifting between ptz locations the view sometimes shifts left of what it's supposed to be. Other than these issues I feel it's a good one,
I love this one more than the others I've gotten.
Kind of afraid to check out other options at this point.
To the point I outright painted over all the lights.
Sometimes it'll automatically recall to my previous ptz preset not just 0. Kept trying to fix the video view for it but the plugin is out of date.
Outside of the daily 1am camera reinit and sometimes when shifting between ptz locations the view sometimes shifts left of what it's supposed to be. Other than these issues I feel it's a good one,
I love this one more than the others I've gotten.
Kind of afraid to check out other options at this point.
Some times ago, I updated to V3.2.13-Tuya.
Changes I found so far:
Does anyone have an idea how to overcome that issue?
Changes I found so far:
- PTZ works now in the correct manner, if the camera works upside down (vertical and horizontal mirror).
- Using the mobile App, switching on the IR lights at night is not longer possible (only white lights for color mode).
This may have something to do with the settings in the web UI. But I did not dive into that issue. - Using the Web UI, switching off the IR lights at night is not longer possible. This includes the usage of curl.
Does anyone have an idea how to overcome that issue?
Last edited:
I have electrical tape over all the lights. When it first started automatically turning on even when I had it off, I couldn't risk it turning on by itself so even though I fixed it in the setting via the Luminence setting, or think it did, I rather be sure it's covered.
SO yeah maybe somewhere one of the settings let you regain control.
I made sure there was no light bleed through. The only problem is IF you haves coming on, it will get hot, so unless you don't mind that or can solve it and turn it off, that's one way to do it.
Thank you very much. I have tried this before. But even 3 layers of adhesive tape melted. As far as I know, there is also metal adhesive tape. But then the heat is reflected back into the camera. I don't think that would be so good for the camera. It's a shame that there's no simple solution. As a last resort, I will probably cut the wires.
Problem for me too because mine is out in a field and runs off solar and battery. With the previous Reolink I had in that place I could turn off the IR to save battery and just have it trigger the IR on when another camera elsewhere alerted.
Mine also does not ever return to the same PTZ position .. its useless.
All in all a very poor experience with my first Annke which will be my last. I've got 17 other cameras running and while not one is perfect the Annke is the worst and almost entirely useless. It does have a good zoom and reasonible optics and is low priced. You could say you get what you pay for but the best PTZ I have so far was a $150 from Aliex Express .. a very generic looking PTZ with 30x zoom and awesome IR .. also has endless 360 rotation.
Mine also does not ever return to the same PTZ position .. its useless.
All in all a very poor experience with my first Annke which will be my last. I've got 17 other cameras running and while not one is perfect the Annke is the worst and almost entirely useless. It does have a good zoom and reasonible optics and is low priced. You could say you get what you pay for but the best PTZ I have so far was a $150 from Aliex Express .. a very generic looking PTZ with 30x zoom and awesome IR .. also has endless 360 rotation.
Last edited:
Yup. I was avoiding cutting things if possible.
I have just 1 layer covering it with the cheap duck brand electrical tape off amazon and I check at usual times to see if the light is on or not since it does still show through the center ambient sensor.
If you are afraid of the heat issue that you're not checking on them periodically then yes, you need to be able to turn it off or use a metal kind of cover to dissipate it.
Something like this 1-1/4 in. Chrome-Plated Steel Iron Pipe Size Split Flange Escutcheon Plate from Home Depot.
But I didn't measure the diameter for it but that would had been my next attempt. I'd paint it over black and then tape that over it.
Or folded sheets of aluminum foil cut to size with the camera side painted black if I couldn't find a prefab solution.
Which one is that? All the ones I have seen or consider are 355 degrees or mispresented values in terms of zoom.
Right now I'm toying with a Ctronics 550C which seems to be better than this because I can control but doesn't have as much options and needs more tinkering and not sure if it has the same exact position alignment issues on calls like this one.
I fix this on the Annek with a preset that forces it straight down and to the furthest left or right.
That one was brandless, I bought it about 3 years ago. It was advertised as a 30x but it is possible that it's 20x times optical. It's a bit of a lucky dip finding a good one. I then bought 2 more that had brand names for $299 (Vimal) and they are not as good as my original one as they suffer from soft images and poor focusing.
I have good news and bad news regarding the lights that can't be turned off. I accidentally found out that if you press the "private mode" button in the app at night and then re-activate the camera, the lights will stay off completely.
Unfortunately, I am not a network expert and am unable to research whether this approach may be possible via a curl command or some other trick.
It would be nice if someone could research this.
Unfortunately, I am not a network expert and am unable to research whether this approach may be possible via a curl command or some other trick.
It would be nice if someone could research this.
Pogo
Getting the hang of it
Good day folks.
Not much useful information out there on these cameras except what has been so unselfishly contributed here. Many thanks to all for at least keeping me from going totally nuts trying to figure out the V1.04.11-230511 version I recently acquired.
My platform is Blue Iris. Having read somewhere (probably an Amazon review..., ahem...) that the app wasn't necessary to get one of these working, I tried every way I could think of and every RTSP MRL address I could find and every port i discovered from a port scan with zero joy.
Then I tried ONVIF Device Manager to see what the hell was going on. No ONVIF. Hmmmm....
It then occured to me that Hik, Dahua and others occasionally implement an additional security layer via an 'ONVIF User' authorization step that enables ONVIF -- if ONVIF is selected along with RTSP -- both of which seem like ridiculous 'feature control options' in the first place, let alone requiring an additional user auth layer to be activated.
Interestingly, the option doesn't exist in the above firmware. I tried just adding a second user but that didn't work.
Ok, then. Let's see if actually registering the device via the Annke Smart app opens things up. Bingo! I mean..., ONVIF!!! RTSP!!! Blue Iris discovers and configures(?) all of the PTZ stuff automagically!.., (to the limited and erratic extent of the firmware itself as described here previously). The coolest discovery was the on screen PTZ control via the mouse without any pre-configuration of anything..., just the default ONVIF (OXML) protocol automatically selected in the PTZ/Control section of the camera configuration during Inspect/Disvover. I'll take it and worry about presets later.
Long and short is registration of the device seems to be required before full functionality is realized, or perhaps more accurately put, possible. On one hand this is an aspect I hadn't read anything about and seems like a fairly valuable piece of information to get one of these things up and running like any normal camera with an otherwise better webUI and firmware platform. On the other hand, the whole cloud thing is in all probability responsible for the 'mind of its own' behaviour in the first place, so 'Catch-22' there.
Just deleting the device from the app seems to kill its ONVIF functionality at the next reboot and you're back to square one unless a workaround is implemented or the device is re-added to the app (re-registered). The easiest approach would obviously be the ability to just establish the required authorization in the firmware and be done with it. Then again, I may have killed the auth via a factory reset as well. I haven't circled back to check how that actually played out.
Oddly, Tuya is the active p2p link selected. Maybe the Tuya app itself has a better interface than Annke Smart for managing this? Haven't checked that yet either.
FWIW, not having an active p2p connection resulted in zero reboots or timestamp issues. Intentional reboots retained settings and returned the camera to its previous position prior to reboot. This was going on 48hrs. before I logged the camera back in to the p2p session to see if doing so would fix the ONVIF/PTZ issue, which it did.
Next experiment will be saving/exporting the cam config and settings to see if the PTZ stuff is retained in BI without cloud support, unless the .reg config posted earlier does the same thing but better. Still don't quite have my head wrapped around that and the curl stuff yet.
Also, it turned out that RTSP is functional without registration using '/1/h264major' as the address string for main regardless of the encoding setting in the firmware. '/1/h264minor' is the sub.
As far as the basic performance of the camera goes otherwise, I'm impressed with both the image and the available feature set..., at least the features that actually work and don't disappear when the browser is closed. Too bad someone hasn't been handed this project to clean up the broken glass from such an abomidible preliminary effort that doesn't appear to have ever been completed.
Not much useful information out there on these cameras except what has been so unselfishly contributed here. Many thanks to all for at least keeping me from going totally nuts trying to figure out the V1.04.11-230511 version I recently acquired.
My platform is Blue Iris. Having read somewhere (probably an Amazon review..., ahem...) that the app wasn't necessary to get one of these working, I tried every way I could think of and every RTSP MRL address I could find and every port i discovered from a port scan with zero joy.
Then I tried ONVIF Device Manager to see what the hell was going on. No ONVIF. Hmmmm....
It then occured to me that Hik, Dahua and others occasionally implement an additional security layer via an 'ONVIF User' authorization step that enables ONVIF -- if ONVIF is selected along with RTSP -- both of which seem like ridiculous 'feature control options' in the first place, let alone requiring an additional user auth layer to be activated.
Interestingly, the option doesn't exist in the above firmware. I tried just adding a second user but that didn't work.
Ok, then. Let's see if actually registering the device via the Annke Smart app opens things up. Bingo! I mean..., ONVIF!!! RTSP!!! Blue Iris discovers and configures(?) all of the PTZ stuff automagically!.., (to the limited and erratic extent of the firmware itself as described here previously). The coolest discovery was the on screen PTZ control via the mouse without any pre-configuration of anything..., just the default ONVIF (OXML) protocol automatically selected in the PTZ/Control section of the camera configuration during Inspect/Disvover. I'll take it and worry about presets later.
Long and short is registration of the device seems to be required before full functionality is realized, or perhaps more accurately put, possible. On one hand this is an aspect I hadn't read anything about and seems like a fairly valuable piece of information to get one of these things up and running like any normal camera with an otherwise better webUI and firmware platform. On the other hand, the whole cloud thing is in all probability responsible for the 'mind of its own' behaviour in the first place, so 'Catch-22' there.
Just deleting the device from the app seems to kill its ONVIF functionality at the next reboot and you're back to square one unless a workaround is implemented or the device is re-added to the app (re-registered). The easiest approach would obviously be the ability to just establish the required authorization in the firmware and be done with it. Then again, I may have killed the auth via a factory reset as well. I haven't circled back to check how that actually played out.
Oddly, Tuya is the active p2p link selected. Maybe the Tuya app itself has a better interface than Annke Smart for managing this? Haven't checked that yet either.
FWIW, not having an active p2p connection resulted in zero reboots or timestamp issues. Intentional reboots retained settings and returned the camera to its previous position prior to reboot. This was going on 48hrs. before I logged the camera back in to the p2p session to see if doing so would fix the ONVIF/PTZ issue, which it did.
Next experiment will be saving/exporting the cam config and settings to see if the PTZ stuff is retained in BI without cloud support, unless the .reg config posted earlier does the same thing but better. Still don't quite have my head wrapped around that and the curl stuff yet.
Also, it turned out that RTSP is functional without registration using '/1/h264major' as the address string for main regardless of the encoding setting in the firmware. '/1/h264minor' is the sub.
As far as the basic performance of the camera goes otherwise, I'm impressed with both the image and the available feature set..., at least the features that actually work and don't disappear when the browser is closed. Too bad someone hasn't been handed this project to clean up the broken glass from such an abomidible preliminary effort that doesn't appear to have ever been completed.
Pogo
Getting the hang of it
The camera needs cloud server contact for ONVIF authorization/functionality, so just opening up the firewall without actively re-initiating server contact afterward would still leave it relatively lifeless.
And I know this is an old post, but I'm wondering if your efforts ever established actual ONVIF communication between the camera and Blue Iris without the app in the middle of everything..., if you happen to still check in from time to time.
Hi all!
I have bought 2 x wz505, (actually the box says sx504??) it is the 5x zoom variant, they came loaded with V3.2.9-Tuya_230803. I use them both as indoor camera's and since i needed the zoom function there wasn't another option.
I,ve been trying for days to save my settings, but as everyone here apperently after a reboot or power disconnect i'm back to low quality. On top of that, i can't get higher framerate's then 15 fps.
So the "powerdisconnect = resets quality settings" is kinda a problem for me. I have all the indoor camera's on a ESP relay that switches them automaticly off when i'm at home, i don't want running cams in the house when at home. So this is useless for me.
I wish i saw this threath before buying these cams, anyway i had contact with annke and they aknowledge these problems and offered me to switch them for c500 cams ( i told them i've been using there c500 without problems and that cam is actually good for the money) But ofcourse that is a cam without pan, tilt and 5x zoom so it won't help me. I asked them if they can make new firmware and i am awaiting there answer (problably the answer will be no) Even the same firmware with better default quality settings would be good enough for me.
I've been reading a little about the curl-s command, but that is something i don't have any knowledge about. Can i put those commands in a file on a sd card so the camera always reboots with high quality settings? That would be awesome!
I have bought 2 x wz505, (actually the box says sx504??) it is the 5x zoom variant, they came loaded with V3.2.9-Tuya_230803. I use them both as indoor camera's and since i needed the zoom function there wasn't another option.
I,ve been trying for days to save my settings, but as everyone here apperently after a reboot or power disconnect i'm back to low quality. On top of that, i can't get higher framerate's then 15 fps.
So the "powerdisconnect = resets quality settings" is kinda a problem for me. I have all the indoor camera's on a ESP relay that switches them automaticly off when i'm at home, i don't want running cams in the house when at home. So this is useless for me.
I wish i saw this threath before buying these cams, anyway i had contact with annke and they aknowledge these problems and offered me to switch them for c500 cams ( i told them i've been using there c500 without problems and that cam is actually good for the money) But ofcourse that is a cam without pan, tilt and 5x zoom so it won't help me. I asked them if they can make new firmware and i am awaiting there answer (problably the answer will be no) Even the same firmware with better default quality settings would be good enough for me.
I've been reading a little about the curl-s command, but that is something i don't have any knowledge about. Can i put those commands in a file on a sd card so the camera always reboots with high quality settings? That would be awesome!
I don't have these problems, i can always use onvif. My wx505 camera's are blocked from the wan port, didn't use any annke manual suggested android/ios app and had no problems setting up the onvif connection to synology surveillance station.
Also after i gave one camera internet access and use one of the suggested apps to see if there was a newer firmware, it didn't had onvif problems.
Pogo
Getting the hang of it
Hi there,
And I didn't have your problems when online with a p2p connection to their cloud servers using the Annke Smart app.
Please post some screenshots of the method you used to access the camera firmware and a few shots of the configuration screens themselves.
As posted earlier, my firmware is a completely different variant than what you seem to have, though the p2p connection is still what appears to be a Tuya source.
And I didn't have your problems when online with a p2p connection to their cloud servers using the Annke Smart app.
Please post some screenshots of the method you used to access the camera firmware and a few shots of the configuration screens themselves.
As posted earlier, my firmware is a completely different variant than what you seem to have, though the p2p connection is still what appears to be a Tuya source.
Thanks for your reply,
I use the utp cable connection to connect to the camera for the first time, then in the camera's its webinterface i set up the wifi and video quality settings and it's done. That is how i always do these things, i never use cloud, apps or whatsoever. Everything smart here is disconnected from the internet.
In the last screenshot, the upper right cam is the wz505, as you can see the bitrate (variable) is higher then default and the framerate is 14. No matter what i do, every fps setting higher then 15 doesn't work. It stays on 14/15. Only lower fps settings work.
Also, if i set the codec to H.265 on this wz505 camera, i can't choose that codec for the wz505 in the synology surveillance station camera settings. Where as with the annke c500 i can choose H.265, i'm using the same onvif template for both camera's.
By the way, also when i gave the one cam internet acccess so i could use the app to see if there was another firmware, i had the same problems with the quality settings reverting to default after a reboot or power loss.
After i saw there was a new firmware, i googled the v3.2.13 firmware and stumbled on this forum. So since everyone experienced the same problems with this newer firmware i didn't update yet.
Both cam's are still on v3.2.9
I use the utp cable connection to connect to the camera for the first time, then in the camera's its webinterface i set up the wifi and video quality settings and it's done. That is how i always do these things, i never use cloud, apps or whatsoever. Everything smart here is disconnected from the internet.
In the last screenshot, the upper right cam is the wz505, as you can see the bitrate (variable) is higher then default and the framerate is 14. No matter what i do, every fps setting higher then 15 doesn't work. It stays on 14/15. Only lower fps settings work.
Also, if i set the codec to H.265 on this wz505 camera, i can't choose that codec for the wz505 in the synology surveillance station camera settings. Where as with the annke c500 i can choose H.265, i'm using the same onvif template for both camera's.
By the way, also when i gave the one cam internet acccess so i could use the app to see if there was another firmware, i had the same problems with the quality settings reverting to default after a reboot or power loss.
After i saw there was a new firmware, i googled the v3.2.13 firmware and stumbled on this forum. So since everyone experienced the same problems with this newer firmware i didn't update yet.
Both cam's are still on v3.2.9
Attachments
Last edited:
I read here that some people are putting tape on the lights and are thinking of cutting the wires.
I have just opened up the device and it's pretty simple to just unplug the circuitboard with the lights, without the need to cut cables. I've actually disconnected the speaker, camera, red/blue light and the whitelight/IR circuitboard. The device started up without any additional issues. Of course the whole thing reset itself xD, but that's apparently normal behaviour for this ridiculous firmware.
I have just opened up the device and it's pretty simple to just unplug the circuitboard with the lights, without the need to cut cables. I've actually disconnected the speaker, camera, red/blue light and the whitelight/IR circuitboard. The device started up without any additional issues. Of course the whole thing reset itself xD, but that's apparently normal behaviour for this ridiculous firmware.
anetbanned
n3wb
Hi just found this forum cos I notice 2 of my cameras had different firmware on them.
So I have a Sannce NVR CCTV system. but cameras werent great at catching car number plates
Sannce recommended one of their 20x zoom cameras.
I found that Sannce and Annke are the same company and bought an Annke I51CK camera.
So I guess Hankvision are the same cameras as well.
I want to use the camera indoors cos I dont want neighbours knowing. Obviously the IR LEDS and White LEDS are a problem here.
So like most from the quick read I've done on this thread, I've covered the LEDs with a few layers of duct tape.
Just bought a faulty camera as well, so I can open it up and find out if there was a connection I could remove, and as brtsq has pointed out, yes there is!
For those who need an image, the cable you need to pull out is shown in the attached photos, its the ply with IR1 IR2 IR3 IR4 written next to it.
For those interested the CDS is the Cadmium Sulphide sensor which tells the camera to turn the IR LEDs on at night.
And whilst it's open also taken photos of the Mic and Speaker cables you can unplug if you want to.
Remember to seat the rubber seal back properly when closing it back up!
Note below the MIC plug is another plug with LED written next to it.
I've got one camera which a plug attached, and the faulty camera which has no plug attached, not even the cable!
I dont want to open the first camera to test which LEDs these are, I just noticed this when I put a SD car in the first camera.
OK onto my issue if anyone can help.
The faulty camera has an issue rotating, it'll just jam and stutter. Turned right but not left.
I thought I'd spray some WD40, maybe that would loosen and grime.
Now it wont rotate left or right at all
Have I shorted the motor with WD40?
Also does anyone know how to get into the white housing section? I can get the lid open to see the motor and gears, but how do you get into the top housing?
see photo
Also anyone know how to stop these cameras from rebooting at 1am?!
And for those who are newbs to CCTV systems, I was also able to connect my Annke camera to by Sannce NVR using the ONVIF port, but you have to make sure the camera and NVR are set to the same port number to use.
My NVR was on 8899, whilst camera was 8999; setting them both to 8999 allowed the NVR to connect to the camera. So I got recording on SD car and my NVR's drive.
So I have a Sannce NVR CCTV system. but cameras werent great at catching car number plates
Sannce recommended one of their 20x zoom cameras.
I found that Sannce and Annke are the same company and bought an Annke I51CK camera.
So I guess Hankvision are the same cameras as well.
I want to use the camera indoors cos I dont want neighbours knowing. Obviously the IR LEDS and White LEDS are a problem here.
So like most from the quick read I've done on this thread, I've covered the LEDs with a few layers of duct tape.
Just bought a faulty camera as well, so I can open it up and find out if there was a connection I could remove, and as brtsq has pointed out, yes there is!
For those who need an image, the cable you need to pull out is shown in the attached photos, its the ply with IR1 IR2 IR3 IR4 written next to it.
For those interested the CDS is the Cadmium Sulphide sensor which tells the camera to turn the IR LEDs on at night.
And whilst it's open also taken photos of the Mic and Speaker cables you can unplug if you want to.
Remember to seat the rubber seal back properly when closing it back up!
Note below the MIC plug is another plug with LED written next to it.
I've got one camera which a plug attached, and the faulty camera which has no plug attached, not even the cable!
I dont want to open the first camera to test which LEDs these are, I just noticed this when I put a SD car in the first camera.
OK onto my issue if anyone can help.
The faulty camera has an issue rotating, it'll just jam and stutter. Turned right but not left.
I thought I'd spray some WD40, maybe that would loosen and grime.
Now it wont rotate left or right at all
Have I shorted the motor with WD40?
Also does anyone know how to get into the white housing section? I can get the lid open to see the motor and gears, but how do you get into the top housing?
see photo
Also anyone know how to stop these cameras from rebooting at 1am?!
And for those who are newbs to CCTV systems, I was also able to connect my Annke camera to by Sannce NVR using the ONVIF port, but you have to make sure the camera and NVR are set to the same port number to use.
My NVR was on 8899, whilst camera was 8999; setting them both to 8999 allowed the NVR to connect to the camera. So I got recording on SD car and my NVR's drive.
Attachments
Last edited:
Pogo
Getting the hang of it
It would appear from the pic there are several possibilities for separating that housing given the angle of the shot and no detail about what's down in the recesses. The slots on each side may well be access to a simple snap/tab fastener method that holds it together.
Are you able to log directly into the working camera(s) WebUI or is access totally dependent on the NVR interface? And out of curiosity, which Sannce NVR do you have?
I've put my WZ500 on the shelf due to the firmware being pure shit without cloud proxy connectivity. I had it working well with Blue Iris and actual direct PTZ control via mouse pointer on the image and it all went south after a reboot. Was never able to recover that capability again and haven't touched it since.
Anyone else have one of these working dependably without needing the constant P2P connection for ONVIF authentication? Everything I've tried suggests cloud connectivity is required for ONVIF authentication to allow certain levels of functionality.
Are you able to log directly into the working camera(s) WebUI or is access totally dependent on the NVR interface? And out of curiosity, which Sannce NVR do you have?
I've put my WZ500 on the shelf due to the firmware being pure shit without cloud proxy connectivity. I had it working well with Blue Iris and actual direct PTZ control via mouse pointer on the image and it all went south after a reboot. Was never able to recover that capability again and haven't touched it since.
Anyone else have one of these working dependably without needing the constant P2P connection for ONVIF authentication? Everything I've tried suggests cloud connectivity is required for ONVIF authentication to allow certain levels of functionality.
I did take mine apart and now I can't remember how seeing it has been a while and I take so many different cameras and PTZs apart I forgot.. I did have 2 of them but I gave one away so I can't even look at one that isn't installed..
Next why are people pulling wires? I mean there is a Enable and Disable in the camera webui for the IR and Lights
The camera is kind of so so and if anyway to get a better one I wouldn't buy it again even with 20x zoom lens..
I have my Router setup to Block the IP of this camera after I setup. That is because of all the things that go on with the thing I felt like it was being controlled from Annke.. I loose connection to NVRs and Blue Iris after a few months so I have to un block in the router delete the camera from app and do a factory reset to get it to work a few months longer. Not something people should have to do from a PTZ but the price of these cameras it is as said, You get what you paid for. Low Cost Low Quality.
Be Safe.
Next why are people pulling wires? I mean there is a Enable and Disable in the camera webui for the IR and Lights
The camera is kind of so so and if anyway to get a better one I wouldn't buy it again even with 20x zoom lens..
I have my Router setup to Block the IP of this camera after I setup. That is because of all the things that go on with the thing I felt like it was being controlled from Annke.. I loose connection to NVRs and Blue Iris after a few months so I have to un block in the router delete the camera from app and do a factory reset to get it to work a few months longer. Not something people should have to do from a PTZ but the price of these cameras it is as said, You get what you paid for. Low Cost Low Quality.
Be Safe.