Camera placement recommendations?

chuckfinn

n3wb
Aug 18, 2021
11
9
District of Columbia, DC
I'm a first time home-buyer, I just moved into a new 1800 sq house with a newborn and my wife is rightly concerned about security. I've put together our floorplan with my planned camera locations, entrances and fence gates are marked in red. I would love to get some feedback on my planned placement and I'm also looking for specific camera recommendations. I've been hearing good things on this forum about the Dahua 2MP starlights but am confused which models I should be getting. I think our needs for the type of camera is somewhere between general observation and close-range recognition(for the entrances). I don't plan on getting a dedicated LPR camera as we're only about 15' from the street and we live in a cul-de-sac (we'll get 2 views of any vehicles).

I've also ordered some CAT6 from Monoprice and will be running it through the soffits in the eaves of our roof, but still need to find a reputable NVR (will look into Blue Iris later down the line), and a good doorbell camera.

Thanks in advance for the feedback!

cameralocs.PNG
 
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I'm a first time home-buyer, I just moved into a new 1800 sq house with a newborn and my wife is rightly concerned about security. I've put together our floorplan with my planned camera locations, entrances and fence gates are marked in red. I would love to get some feedback on my planned placement and I'm also looking for specific camera recommendations. I've been hearing good things on this forum about the Dahua 2MP starlights but am confused which models I should be getting. I think our needs for the type of camera is somewhere between general observation and close-range recognition(for the entrances). I don't plan on getting a dedicated LPR camera as we're only about 15' from the street and we live in a cul-de-sac (we'll get 2 views of any vehicles).

I've also ordered some CAT6 from Monoprice and will be running it through the soffits in the eaves of our roof, but still need to find a reputable NVR (will look into Blue Iris later down the line), and a good doorbell camera.

Thanks in advance for the feedback!

View attachment 98889

Hi @chuckfinn

I like to have more cameras covering the front ..
 
Is there an angle I'm not covering? I have #1 and #2 on the corners facing towards center, and a doorbell camera looking out from the door.

Hi Chuckfinn ..

suggest buying one camera and learning more .. see the cliffnotes .. see the DORI section .. see others who have asked similar questions .. remember it is also about pixels on target, angle to face, ..

get the test camera and try acting as a prowler at night.. test out the placements you have posted ..
 
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:welcome:

It's not a question of angles, it's a question of being able to identify who is doing what and when. Nice broad overviews are fine, once you have established good identity cameras, that means longer focal lengths and focused in closer. Also remember that identifying means the camera has a straight-on face shot, not from above 7 to 7.5 feet.
 
:welcome:

It's not a question of angles, it's a question of being able to identify who is doing what and when. Nice broad overviews are fine, once you have established good identity cameras, that means longer focal lengths and focused in closer. Also remember that identifying means the camera has a straight-on face shot, not from above 7 to 7.5 feet.
Thanks for the welcome!

So luckily in this house all of my planned soffit mounts are right around 7' above ground, do you think I have chosen good positions to get the straight-on face shots? That was the idea with #3 and #6 at least to capture anyone coming into the backyard.
 
Hi Chuckfinn ..

suggest buying one camera and learning more .. see the cliffnotes .. see the DORI section .. see others who have asked similar questions .. remember it is also about pixels on target, angle to face, ..

get the test camera and try acting as a prowler at night.. test out the placements you have posted ..
Great idea for the test camera, I hadn't seen that recommended yet. Do you think in my setup I should try out a varifocal lens or is there a specific lens size I should go for?
 
OK, here's my standard welcome to cover more territory -

Welcome to the enchanted land of video surveillance lunatics, good guys, nut jobs and miscreants (yes, I fit into at least three categories). There are a lot of knowledgeable people on here and knowledge and experience are shared constantly. That's how I got to be a lunatic (already a nut job and miscreant).

Start out by looking in the WiKi in the blue bar at the top of the page. There's a ton of very useful information in there and it needs to be viewed on a computer, not a phone or tablet. The Cliff Notes will be of particular interest although the camera models listed there are a generation old at this point. The best way to determine what kind of camera you need in each location and where each location should really be is to buy one varifocal camera first and set up a test stand for it that can be easily moved around. Test using that, viewing using the web interface of the camera, during the day and at night. Have someone walk around behaving like a miscreant and see if you can identify them. There is also information for choosing hardware and securing the system along with a whole bunch of other good stuff.

Don't chase megapixels unless you have a really BIG budget. Chase sensor size and bigger is better. To confuse you more sensor sizes are listed in fractions so do the basic math to be sure, 1/2.7 is bigger than 1/2.8 or 1/3. General rule of thumb is that a 4MP camera will easily outperform an 8MP camera when they both have the same sensor size. Reason being that there are twice as many pixels in the 8MP versus the 4MP. This results in only half the available light getting to each pixel in an 8MP that a pixel in the 4MP "sees".

A dedicated PC doesn't need to be either expensive to purchase or to run. A used business class machine can be had from eBay and various other sources. The advances made in Blue Iris make it easily possible to run a fairly large system on relatively inexpensive hardware which also makes power consumption low, as in under 50 watts in many cases. The biggest expenses turn out to be hard drives for storing video and a PoE switch to power the cameras and, of course, the cameras themselves.

The three basic rules of video surveillance cameras-

Rule #1 - Cameras multiply like rabbits.
Rule #2 - Cameras are more addictive than drugs.
Rule #3 - You never have enough cameras.

Quick guide -

The smaller the lux number the better the low light performance. 0.002 is better than 0.02
The smaller the "F" of the lens the better the low light performance. F1.4 is better than F1.8
The larger the sensor the better the low light performance. 1/1.8" is better (bigger) than 1/2.7"
The higher the megapixels for the same size sensor the worse the low light performance. A 4MP camera with a 1/1.8" sensor will perform better than a 8MP camera with that same 1/1.8" sensor.

1/3" = .333"
1/2.8" = .357" (think a .38 caliber bullet)
1/1.8" = .555" (bigger than a .50 caliber bullet or ball)
1/1.2" = .833" (bigger than a 20mm chain gun round)

Don't believe all the marketing hype no matter who makes the camera. Don't believe those nice night time captures they all use. Look for videos, with motion, to determine low light performance. Any camera can be made to "see" color at night if the exposure time is long enough, as in half a second or longer. Rule of thumb, the shutter speed needs to be at 1/60 or higher to get night video without blurring.

Read the reviews here, most include both still shots and video.

Avoid Reolink, Foscam, SV3C, Nest, and all the other consumer grade cameras. They all struggle mightily at night and never get anything useful on video. Here's a link to a whole thread debunking Reolink in particular.

Compiled by mat200 -

Avoid WiFi cameras, even doorbell cameras. WiFi is not designed for the constant, 24/7, load of video that a surveillance camera produces. At best, with two cameras on WiFi, they will still experience dropouts multiple times daily. Murphy's Law says that will happen at the worst possible moment.

Lens size, focal length, is another critical factor. Many people like the wide, sweeping, views of a 2.8mm lens but be aware that identification is problematic with a lens that wide. Watch this video to learn how to analyze each location for appropriate lens size and keep in mind that it may take two cameras to provide the coverage you need or desire. Another factor that effects view angles is the sensor size. Typically larger sensors will have a larger field of view in any given lens size.

The 5442 series of cameras by Dahua is the current "king of the hill". They are 4MP and capable of color with some ambient light at night. The 2231 series is a less expensive alternative in 2MP and does not have audio capabilities, no built in microphone, but is easier on the budget. The 3241T-ZAS has similar spcs as the 2231 and has audio. There are also cameras available from the IPCT Store right here on the forum and from Nelly's Security who has a thread in the vendors section.

5442 Reviews

Review - 8MP 1/1.2" sensor full color camera

Review - Loryata (Dahua OEM) IPC-T5442T-ZE varifocal Turret

Review - OEM IPC-B5442E-ZE 4MP AI Varifocal Bullet Camera With Starlight+

Review-OEM 4mp AI Cam IPC-T5442TM-AS Starlight+ Turret

Review IPC-T5442TM-AS-LED (Turret, Full Color, Starlight+)

Review: IPC-HDBW5442R-ASE-NI - Dahua Technology Pro AI Bullet Network Camera

2231 Review
Review-OEM IPC-T2231RP-ZS 2mp Varifocal Turret Starlight Camera

3241T-ZAS Review

Less expensive models -

VPN Information Thread
 
OK, here's my standard welcome to cover more territory -

Welcome to the enchanted land of video surveillance lunatics, good guys, nut jobs and miscreants (yes, I fit into at least three categories). There are a lot of knowledgeable people on here and knowledge and experience are shared constantly. That's how I got to be a lunatic (already a nut job and miscreant).

Start out by looking in the WiKi in the blue bar at the top of the page. There's a ton of very useful information in there and it needs to be viewed on a computer, not a phone or tablet. The Cliff Notes will be of particular interest although the camera models listed there are a generation old at this point. The best way to determine what kind of camera you need in each location and where each location should really be is to buy one varifocal camera first and set up a test stand for it that can be easily moved around. Test using that, viewing using the web interface of the camera, during the day and at night. Have someone walk around behaving like a miscreant and see if you can identify them. There is also information for choosing hardware and securing the system along with a whole bunch of other good stuff.

Don't chase megapixels unless you have a really BIG budget. Chase sensor size and bigger is better. To confuse you more sensor sizes are listed in fractions so do the basic math to be sure, 1/2.7 is bigger than 1/2.8 or 1/3. General rule of thumb is that a 4MP camera will easily outperform an 8MP camera when they both have the same sensor size. Reason being that there are twice as many pixels in the 8MP versus the 4MP. This results in only half the available light getting to each pixel in an 8MP that a pixel in the 4MP "sees".

A dedicated PC doesn't need to be either expensive to purchase or to run. A used business class machine can be had from eBay and various other sources. The advances made in Blue Iris make it easily possible to run a fairly large system on relatively inexpensive hardware which also makes power consumption low, as in under 50 watts in many cases. The biggest expenses turn out to be hard drives for storing video and a PoE switch to power the cameras and, of course, the cameras themselves.

The three basic rules of video surveillance cameras-

Rule #1 - Cameras multiply like rabbits.
Rule #2 - Cameras are more addictive than drugs.
Rule #3 - You never have enough cameras.

Quick guide -

The smaller the lux number the better the low light performance. 0.002 is better than 0.02
The smaller the "F" of the lens the better the low light performance. F1.4 is better than F1.8
The larger the sensor the better the low light performance. 1/1.8" is better (bigger) than 1/2.7"
The higher the megapixels for the same size sensor the worse the low light performance. A 4MP camera with a 1/1.8" sensor will perform better than a 8MP camera with that same 1/1.8" sensor.

1/3" = .333"
1/2.8" = .357" (think a .38 caliber bullet)
1/1.8" = .555" (bigger than a .50 caliber bullet or ball)
1/1.2" = .833" (bigger than a 20mm chain gun round)

Don't believe all the marketing hype no matter who makes the camera. Don't believe those nice night time captures they all use. Look for videos, with motion, to determine low light performance. Any camera can be made to "see" color at night if the exposure time is long enough, as in half a second or longer. Rule of thumb, the shutter speed needs to be at 1/60 or higher to get night video without blurring.

Read the reviews here, most include both still shots and video.

Avoid Reolink, Foscam, SV3C, Nest, and all the other consumer grade cameras. They all struggle mightily at night and never get anything useful on video. Here's a link to a whole thread debunking Reolink in particular.

Compiled by mat200 -

Avoid WiFi cameras, even doorbell cameras. WiFi is not designed for the constant, 24/7, load of video that a surveillance camera produces. At best, with two cameras on WiFi, they will still experience dropouts multiple times daily. Murphy's Law says that will happen at the worst possible moment.

Lens size, focal length, is another critical factor. Many people like the wide, sweeping, views of a 2.8mm lens but be aware that identification is problematic with a lens that wide. Watch this video to learn how to analyze each location for appropriate lens size and keep in mind that it may take two cameras to provide the coverage you need or desire. Another factor that effects view angles is the sensor size. Typically larger sensors will have a larger field of view in any given lens size.

The 5442 series of cameras by Dahua is the current "king of the hill". They are 4MP and capable of color with some ambient light at night. The 2231 series is a less expensive alternative in 2MP and does not have audio capabilities, no built in microphone, but is easier on the budget. The 3241T-ZAS has similar spcs as the 2231 and has audio. There are also cameras available from the IPCT Store right here on the forum and from Nelly's Security who has a thread in the vendors section.

5442 Reviews

Review - 8MP 1/1.2" sensor full color camera

Review - Loryata (Dahua OEM) IPC-T5442T-ZE varifocal Turret

Review - OEM IPC-B5442E-ZE 4MP AI Varifocal Bullet Camera With Starlight+

Review-OEM 4mp AI Cam IPC-T5442TM-AS Starlight+ Turret

Review IPC-T5442TM-AS-LED (Turret, Full Color, Starlight+)

Review: IPC-HDBW5442R-ASE-NI - Dahua Technology Pro AI Bullet Network Camera

2231 Review
Review-OEM IPC-T2231RP-ZS 2mp Varifocal Turret Starlight Camera

3241T-ZAS Review

Less expensive models -

VPN Information Thread

Thanks for all the great info! It looks like I'll be getting a varifocal to test at each of my chosen positions for daytime and nighttime use. I'm still not completely sold on going in on a pc for Blue Iris vs doing an NVR for now (just because its another mini "project" on its own to part out and build) .
 
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No need to "part out and build". Way easier and less expensive, especially the way things are today, to use a refurb, off lease, Dell, HP or Lenovo. Just pick one with Win10/Pro, an NVME boot drive, 16GB of RAM and room, and SATA connections, for a couple of internal drives.
 
No need to "part out and build". Way easier and less expensive, especially the way things are today, to use a refurb, off lease, Dell, HP or Lenovo. Just pick one with Win10/Pro, an NVME boot drive, 16GB of RAM and room, and SATA connections, for a couple of internal drives.
I'll have to give it another look. Is ebay still the best place to find those old or refurbed systems?
 
Go right to the source, first, Dell, HP and Lenovo. eBay is also good. Mid tower is the chassis size to look at.
 
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I'll have to give it another look. Is ebay still the best place to find those old or refurbed systems?

FYI - can also find on ebay, and craigslist .. get newer CPUs.. 6th gen or better tho..
 
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I usually keep my distance from craigslist these days but it wouldnt hurt to check!

Craigslist, only go for in person purchases .. I've had good luck with RAM, PCs, Appliances, Furniture, ..
 
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So, as a general rule..

I want to have at least 2 chances of getting a good image capture for a possible ID for anyone walking up to what I am attempting to protect.

Thus for example:
Anyone coming to my front door, I want them to walk through a minimum of 2 camera zones within the ID distance and at a good angle ..

So I would Identify what you want to help cover. Examples:

Your car parked on the driveway - 2 cameras, one on each side of the car
Your car on the street? - cameras covering on each side of the house, with a zoom to narrow the view ..
Your front door.. camera at face level, camera covering package drop zone, and one more camera zone they have to walk through to get to the front door..
 
So, as a general rule..

I want to have at least 2 chances of getting a good image capture for a possible ID for anyone walking up to what I am attempting to protect.

Thus for example:
Anyone coming to my front door, I want them to walk through a minimum of 2 camera zones within the ID distance and at a good angle ..

So I would Identify what you want to help cover. Examples:

Your car parked on the driveway - 2 cameras, one on each side of the car
Your car on the street? - cameras covering on each side of the house, with a zoom to narrow the view ..
Your front door.. camera at face level, camera covering package drop zone, and one more camera zone they have to walk through to get to the front door..
Okay, I think I'm covering most of that with my two corner cameras and the doorbell. I think I could definitely improve by adding another camera up high in my entryway, but maybe I'll add that in the future. With my attic access and soffits I have no problems running cable.
 
If possible I'd probaubly look into a 7th camera to cover that "master suite" window. I know #5 might see them but I think its too far away. Also I'd do an 8th directly above the front entrance but overall I think it looks good. You'll got multiply angles which gives you multiply shots of no gooders. IMO an NVR is ok but there are so many advatages to BI. For me one of the big ones is the ability to use basically any type of camera from any manufacturer in the same system. I've had decent luck with ACTi and Reolink cameras which are on 2 different ends of the spectrum & that goes back to that advantage thing I was speaking of. I will say that it will take some tinkering to get right but ALL the tools are there. Im actually looking for a good doorbell cam also...thinking about Armcrest. Anyhow GL and most importantly...congrats on the newborn! Enjoy because they grow up fast!!! Ron
 
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Just to further echo what others have said based on my own experience (that matches the advice you have been given).

It is simple LOL do not chase MP - do not buy a 4MP camera that is anything smaller than a 1/1.8" sensor. Do not buy a 2MP camera that is anything smaller than a 1/2.8" sensor. Do not buy a 4K (8MP) camera on anything smaller than a 1/1.2" sensor. Unfortunately, most 4k cams are on the same sensor as a 2MP and thus the 2MP will kick its butt all night long as the 4k will need 4 times the light than the 2MP... 4k will do very poor at night unless you have stadium quality lighting (well a lot of lighting LOL). Starlight, ColorVu, Full Color, etc. are simply marketing terms, so don't be sold on those names.

To identify someone with the 2.8mm lens that most people opt for, someone would have to be within 13 feet of the camera, but realistically within 10 feet after you dial it in to your settings.

1604638118196.png



My neighbor was bragging to me how he only needed his four 2.8mm fixed lens 4k cams to see his entire property and the street and his whole backyard. His car was sitting in the driveway practically touching the garage door and his video quality was useless to ID the perp not even 10 feet away. Meanwhile my 2MP varifocal optically zoomed in to the public sidewalk provided the money shot to the police to get my neighbors all their stuff back. Nobody else had video that could provide anything useful, other than what time this motion blur ghost was at their car.

Here are my general distance recommendations, but switch out the Dahua 5442 series camera to the equivalent 2MP on the 1/2.8" sensor or equivalent Hikvision works as well.
  • 5442 fixed lens 2.8mm - anything within 10 feet of camera OR as an overview camera
  • 5442 ZE - varifocal - distances up to 40-50 feet (personally I wouldn't go past the 30 foot range but I like things closer)
  • 5442 Z4E - anything up to 80-100 feet (personally I wouldn't go past 60 feet but I like things closer)
  • 5241-Z12E - anything from 80 feet to almost 200 feet (personally I wouldn't go past 150 feet because I like things closer)
  • 5241-Z12E - for a license plate cam that you would angle up the street to get plates up to about 175 feet away, or up to 220 with additional IR.
  • 49225 PTZ - great PTZ and in conjunction with an NVR or Blue Iris and the cameras above that you can use as spotter cams to point the PTZ to the correct location to compliment the fixed cams.
You need to get the correct camera for the area trying to be covered. A 2.8mm to IDENTIFY someone 40 feet away is the wrong camera regardless of how good the camera is. A 2.8mm camera to IDENTIFY someone within 10 feet is a good choice OR it is an overview camera to see something happened but not be able to identify who.

So you will need to identify the distance the camera would be from the activities you want to IDENTIFY on and purchase the correct camera for that distance as an optical zoom.

You say you are 15 feet away from the street, so you don't need a dedicated LPR....but do you hope to be able to read the plates? If so, keep in mind that this is a camera dedicated to plates and not an overview camera also. It is as much an art as it is a science. You will need two cameras. For LPR we need to zoom in tight to make the plate as large as possible. For most of us, all you see is the not much more than a vehicle in the entire frame. Now maybe in the right location during the day it might be able to see some other things, but not at night.

At night, we have to run a very fast shutter speed (1/2,000) and in B/W with IR and the image will be black. All you will see are head/tail lights and the plate. Some people can get away with color if they have enough street lights, but most of us cannot. Here is a representative sample of plates I get at night of vehicles traveling about 45MPH at 175 feet from my camera:



1629321960406.png

I'd recommend you consider a Blue Iris/computer combo as an NVR. Keep in mind an NVR is simply a stripped down computer after all... And this would allow you the flexibility to mix camera brands.

You don't need to buy components and build one, or buy a new computer either.

When I was looking at replacing an existing NVR, once I realized that not all NVRs are created equal, and once I priced out a good one, it was cheaper to buy a refurbished computer than an NVR.

Many of us buy refurbished computers that are business class computers that have come off lease. The one I bought I kid you not I could not tell that it was a refurbished unit - not a speck of dust or dents or scratches on it. It appeared to me like everything was replaced and I would assume just the motherboard with the intel processor is what was from the original unit. I went with the lowest end processor on the WIKI list as it was the cheapest and it runs my system fine. Could probably get going for $200 or so. A real NVR will cost more than that.

A member here a couple months ago found a refurbished 4th generation for less than $150USD that came with Win10 PRO, 16GB RAM, and a 1TB drive. You won't find a capable NVR cheaper than that...

Blue Iris has a demo, so try it out on an existing computer and see if you like it.

There is a big Blue Iris or NVR debate here LOL. Some people love Blue Iris and think NVRs are clunky and hard to use and others think Blue Iris is clunky and hard to use. I have done both and prefer Blue Iris. As with everything YMMV...

And you can disable Windows updates and set up the computer to automatically restart in a power failure, and then you have a more powerful NVR with a nice mobile viewing interface.

Blue Iris is great and works with probably more camera brands than most VMS programs, but there are brands that don't work well or not at all - Rings, Arlos, Nest, Some Zmodo cams use proprietary systems and cannot be used with Blue Iris, and for a lot of people Reolink doesn't work well either. But we would recommend staying away from those brands even if you go the NVR route with one of those brands...