Help with cable run layout?

rufunky said:
Thanks, I really appreciate the help.

Do you recommend a pulling loop at each LB like recommended in this video?

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NO, not for network cable because you don't want the sharp bend but leave as much loose slack inside Lb as you can so you can easily pull back if you want but the runs you are making really are not long enough to be concerened.

You can easily pry the wires up if you need to pull them back out. Start with sucking brick layers string in then using that to pull in a larger nylon rope in your case about 1/4 to 3/8 inch Pull the string then the rope all the way through then attach your wires to the rope staggering them so you don't have a big ball on the end (add another brick layers string to the wires so you have a way to pull another wire in later when you are done there should be a string from one end to the other for future pulls.).

Then go to the first LB or junction box and pull the rope loose enough to pull the first run, When you have it into the LB or box, pull enough out for the next run, then go to the next junction and do the same till you are done. Doing it this way you won't have to reconnect the wires to the pulling rope at every junction. For wires that don't get pulled all the way to the last box, cut those off and pull plenty out to make your connections plus at least 18 inches so you you have plenty to work with then tie the end off so it stays put until you are ready to make your connections.

You have to use a vac of some sort to suck the string in or you can borrow or buya a fish tape. for this job the fish tape would probably be easier.

Note that the conduit in the video is "EMT" Electrical Metallic Tubing, don't use that it is not intended for outdoor locations where exposed to weather.

You are welcome, glad I can help you. Post back anymore questions you may have before you start and I will reply as soon as I can. If there was anything I am not clear enough about post back.

This will be a whole alot easier if you have a helper and you won't need to pull a bunch of wire out at each junction just leave a loop until your done - MAKE SURE you leave plenty of wire at each box for your cameras, If you can loop a couple turns without bending to tight you wil have enough to re-do connections if you need to.

Have blessed evening.

David
 
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I am not familiar enough with it, as long as it is copper and not copper clad aluminum it will probably be fine but I have never used it so I cannot say.

By now you know I only share what I actually know and not try to guide someone irresponsibly.

Maybe someone else that has actual experience with that brand can chime in here and answer that for you.

David
 
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SecurityCams said:
I am not familiar enough with it, as long as it is copper and not copper clad aluminum it will probably be fine but I have never used it so I cannot say.

By now you know I only share what I actually know and not try to guide someone irresponsibly.



David
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Wise man! Nothing worse than that.

Do you have any suggestions for screwing the clamps into brick or the mortar in between the brick?
 
rufunky, the Dahua DH-PFA130-E mounting boxes may be of interest to you as well. Perfect when used with metal conduit tube.

And is there any way to get closer to the 3 proposed camera positions. As you could go through the wall, into a mount/junction box and then run metal conduit between.

It's just an idea.
 
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rufunky said:
Wise man! Nothing worse than that.

Do you have any suggestions for screwing the clamps into brick or the mortar in between the brick?
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I really like TAPCONS since I started using them You don't need an anchor just drill and screw them in with an electric impact driver.
- they work for me better than anchors and screws. You can get them in many sizes. I get them at LOWES. More expensive then plastic anchors but they hold. You will want to get a hammer drill to drill the hole for them.

I suggest you test an area on your building someplace where it won't matter too much first to test the brick.
 
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K175un3 said:
rufunky, the Dahua DH-PFA130-E mounting boxes may be of interest to you as well. Perfect when used with metal conduit tube.

And is there any way to get closer to the 3 proposed camera positions. As you could go through the wall, into a mount/junction box and then run metal conduit between.

It's just an idea.
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Unfortunately no, the building was originally a brick manufacturing plant. Guess who went overboard with bricks when building the place...lol the walls are like 2 feet thick even interior walls. That is why I chose to come out the bay window area.

SecurityCams said:
I really like TAPCONS since I started using them You don't need an anchor just drill and screw them in with an electric impact driver.
- they work for me better than anchors and screws. You can get them in many sizes. I get them at LOWES. More expensive then plastic anchors but they hold. You will want to get a hammer drill to drill the hole for them.

I suggest you test an area on your building someplace where it won't matter too much first to test the brick.
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More good advice! much appreciated!

mat200 said:
Hi @rufunky

specs look good on that one ( outdoor rated even... ) recall reading some good things on ubiquiti branded cable
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Thank you, I have used this before and it was great for my application but as started before, I have never run conduit and from what people are saying here, it can sometimes accumulate water at the low points thus the cable should be able to accommodate that. I don't believe this stuff is gel filled, not sure if that matters?...
 
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If the conduit is installed properly it "Should" stay dry, Conduit threads are different then water pipe though in that conduit threads are not tapered like water pipe.

Pose the question to TONY R on here. he has a lot of experience running conduit also. probably more than I do, I specialized in control systems more than running conduit.
 
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SecurityCams said:
If the conduit is installed properly it "Should" stay dry, Conduit threads are different then water pipe though in that conduit threads are not tapered like water pipe.

Pose the question to TONY R on here. he has a lot of experience running conduit also. probably more than I do, I specialized in control systems more than running conduit.
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@TonyR Any opinions on the cable posted above being used in PVC conduit?
 
rufunky said:
@TonyR Any opinions on the cable posted above being used in PVC conduit?
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That is pretty good cable. The jacket is heavier than most outdoor rated cable, and ubnt makes specific RJ45 connectors for it. The connectors are fully shielded and the shield and the heavy duty nature of the cable makes some say it is harder to work with.

I would use it for this application, even though it is a little bit of overkill.
 
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rufunky said:
@TonyR Any opinions on the cable posted above being used in PVC conduit?
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I agree with @Ford , it's great cable, I have run several 1,000 ft. rolls of it, some outdoors, some in conduit underground, all with great results.
The shield might be overkill for your app but the jacket will do well in conduit that accumulates moisture or is underground. I'd use it in heartbeat again, I don't find it hard to work with at all.
FWIW, a condition of UBNT's warranty is that outdoor runs of cable connected to their products be shielded and be grounded.
 
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SecurityCams said:
Pose the question to TONY R on here. he has a lot of experience running conduit also. probably more than I do, I specialized in control systems more than running conduit.
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In all honesty, conduit was not my main focus or my strong suit, I could do some well enough to pass muster...like you, my specialty was "control systems" as well.. over 31 years of traffic signals to be exact, hence the familiar avatar over my name. :cool:
 
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rufunky said:
..

Thank you, I have used this before and it was great for my application but as started before, I have never run conduit and from what people are saying here, it can sometimes accumulate water at the low points thus the cable should be able to accommodate that. I don't believe this stuff is gel filled, not sure if that matters?...
Click to expand...

Hi @rufunky

Conduit run above ground should be dry... should be. Guess you could always ensure you have a drip route out of any junction box / low conduit point to help ensure any water exits. ( assuming you're not worried about water splashing up.. )

For conduit run underground - that is where I would be more concerned about water intrusion.
 
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Does anyone know if the round, conduit, PVC junction boxs are compatible with dahua turret mounting holes?

I thought I was going to be able to use the metal junction boxs from dahua but it doesn't look like that's possible...
 
rufunky said:
Does anyone know if the round, conduit, PVC junction boxs are compatible with dahua turret mounting holes?

I thought I was going to be able to use the metal junction boxs from dahua but it doesn't look like that's possible...
Click to expand...

It is possible. You Just need the right pvc fittings. That thread into the box.
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