Hiding BlueIris/NVR device in closet and connecting to it with Powerline adapter? How much data?

Jimbob

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Hello,

To avoid theft of my NVR/Blueiris computer, I want to locate it in a hidden location away from my internet/wifi router. (Closet or attic or furnace room, etc.)

Normally this wouldn't be a problem (just run a network cable from the router to the NVR, right)... but unfortunately in my situation, I can't do that.

My landlord told me if he finds out I've added ANY wires inside or outside the house, then he will evict me. (There is a "no wires" clause in our contact.) He really wants to evict me so he can raise the rate with a new tenant, since I'm paying lower than current market rate, etc. Therefore, can't risk running ANY wires, no matter how well they are hidden.

So, my security system will consist of 8 wireless cameras. (I know... wireless is bad. I have no choice.) They will connect to a dedicated wifi access point, just for the cameras. (Four on 5ghz and four on 2.4ghz.)

This "wifi cameras only" access point will connect to my normal "internet" wifi router... which needs to connect the NVR/Blueiris computer... but since I can't run a cable between them...

...I was thinking of using a Powerline adapter to connect between my internet router and the hidden NVR/Blueiris computer.

I hope that makes sense? So something like this:

8 wifi cameras --> dedicated wifi access point --> normal internet router --> NVR/Blueiris computer

I am proposing that the connection between normal internet router and NVR/Blueiris computer would be using a Powerline adapter.

What I need help with is figuring out what speed of Powerline adapter I need. Can you help me determine how much data would typically travel between the internet router and the hidden NVR/Blueiris computer?

I will have the following 8 cameras (or very similar):

- 4 wireless Amcrest IP3M-HX2 cameras (3 megapixels).
- 4 wireless Amcrest IP3M-943S cameras (3 megapixels).

Thanks for any help!

NOTE: I understand Powerline adapert is not a great way to go. I get it. And neither is using wifi for the cameras. Ok. But the fact is that I have no choice to use wifi. And I have no choice to figure out a way to connect between the router and the NVR/Blueiris computer that does NOT require running a cable. It's great if you own your own home and you can run cables wherever you want. I don't own my home, and I can NOT run cables wherever I want. That's just how it is. So if you could please refrain from the usual "wifi is bad, and powerline is bad" reply, and actually provide an alternative recommendation or useful comment.. that would be great. :)
 
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NoloC

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Hello,

To avoid theft of my NVR/Blueiris computer, I want to locate it in a hidden location away from my internet/wifi router. (Closet or attic or furnace room, etc.)

Normally this wouldn't be a problem (just run a network cable from the router to the NVR, right)... but unfortunately in my situation, I can't do that.

My landlord told me if he finds out I've added ANY wires inside or outside the house, then he will evict me. (There is a "no wires" clause in our contact.) He really wants to evict me so he can raise the rate with a new tenant, since I'm paying lower than current market rate, etc. Therefore, can't risk running ANY wires, no matter how well they are hidden.

So, my security system will consist of 8 wireless cameras. (I know... wireless is bad. I have no choice.) They will connect to a dedicated wifi access point, just for the cameras. (Four on 5ghz and four on 2.4ghz.)

This "wifi cameras only" access point will connect to my normal "internet" wifi router... which needs to connect the NVR/Blueiris computer... but since I can't run a cable between them...

...I was thinking of using a Powerline adapter to connect between my internet router and the hidden NVR/Blueiris computer.

I hope that makes sense? So something like this:

8 wifi cameras --> dedicated wifi access point --> normal internet router --> NVR/Blueiris computer

I am proposing that the connection between normal internet router and NVR/Blueiris computer would be using a Powerline adapter.

What I need help with is figuring out what speed of Powerline adapter I need. Can you help me determine how much data would typically travel between the internet router and the hidden NVR/Blueiris computer?

I will have the following 8 cameras (or very similar):

- 4 wireless Amcrest IP3M-HX2 cameras (3 megapixels).
- 4 wireless Amcrest IP3M-943S cameras (3 megapixels).

Thanks for any help!
 

Aengus4h

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depends on the powerline unit you use and the interference on your mains wiring. I run TPlink AV1200 ones around the house and they work just fine, allows the NVR to be hidden away and have no problems with remote viewing via VPN or local from the main LAN connected PC. Only issue with these AV1200's is they can go to sleep if there's no activity so worth reading around to see which better ones there may be these days, there are some AV2000 ones but no knowledge of those.

Oh, if you need to you can trunk VLANs across these too so long as you can correctly tag the packets - I use Netgear pro switches to do that so my CCTV setup is on an isolated VLAN with access restricted onto that VLAN only from the management PC and remote view from VPN. No camera/NVR access out of the VLAN.

Note too that things like LED lamps can cause interference and that does drop the throughput drastically, varies on price and type.

HTH
Dave
 

bp2008

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I assume this "no wires" clause actually means "no drilling/damaging" right??

If this house is wired for coax (cable TV) already in the right places then you can use inexpensive directv coax to ethernet adapters and that should be more reliable. However you might not want to dick around with it if you are already using the house's coax for your TV or internet service.
 

Jimbob

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I assume this "no wires" clause actually means "no drilling/damaging" right??
No, it means no drilling/holes, and no cable of any kind, no matter how it is attached to the house, that is longer than 2 feet.
 

Jimbob

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Does anyone know how much data a typical wifi 3 megapixel camera will transmit?
 

NoloC

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Depends on how you set it up, but default is usually 4096 Kb/s. This can be altered.
 

Aengus4h

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Know what you mean re landlords and the "no puncturing etc" rules, how are you supposed to hang your paintings etc!

On the EoP side, if you get the AV1000+ units you should be fine, I've 8 cheap china 2MP 1080P cameras in my house sending to a Hikvision 7608 NVR and 6 of those currently send over EoP without issue. I generally see 200-600Mbps across the EoP links depending what major appliances are running and that's across floors in the house, tho its fairly recent wiring and a small house so not long cable runs. The IP camera & DVR with 3xD1's in the shed links into the house over Cat5e into a switch on EoP. Only issue is if mains power fails, as UPS keeps the gear going but the EoP is dead so you lose connection to the cameras.

Am considering at the moment upgrading some of these to Starvis boards but getting the confirmation on analytics having ttCellMotionEngine seems to rule out the IMX291/Hi3516c boards at the moment. I noticed that the NVR works fine with that analytic on 3.4.62 but upgrading beyond that breaks the motion for onvif cameras :-( I do see some pinhole and other generic cams that had the Hik protocol support now and the IMX290 sensor so may give those a go and will order WiFi capability on them. That way I can deploy a second Wifi router with the NVR so that on power fail the important remote cams can still stream to the NVR. Not ideal but can't flood wire rented places so its a case of making the best solution you can...
 

tangent

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I don't think it's necessary to create so many separate threads (1 for the alarm and 1 or 2 for the cameras would make sense but 7 threads about more or less the same thing each missing details found in another thread... no thanks). Staring a new thread every time you have a new question makes it harder for the people giving you advice to keep track of what's going on.
 

Jimbob

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I'm curious: If the 2 bullet cams are going outdoors, how do you plan to mount and power them?
All cameras will be "mounted" using a magnet system. I have a very powerful magnet located "behind" the soffet or wall or whatever. The camera base has a metal plate attached to it. Presto.. instant mount. They work very well, as the magnets are extremely strong. Even through drywall.

The indoor cameras will be powered using the in-house security system pre-wiring where the motion detectors would normally be located. I will simply attach each camera's power supply to one end of the wire (in the furnace room), and then put the proper power connector to plug into the camera power on the other end.

The outdoor cameras will be located very close to an outdoor light, so I will use a "screw in light socket power adapter" to give power to the camera.

No holes drilled, nothing mounted with any screws, and no wire runs longer than 2 feet.
 

tangent

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All cameras will be "mounted" using a magnet system. I have a very powerful magnet located "behind" the soffet or wall or whatever. The camera base has a metal plate attached to it. Presto.. instant mount. They work very well, as the magnets are extremely strong. Even through drywall.

The indoor cameras will be powered using the in-house security system pre-wiring where the motion detectors would normally be located. I will simply attach each camera's power supply to one end of the wire (in the furnace room), and then put the proper power connector to plug into the camera power on the other end.

The outdoor cameras will be located very close to an outdoor light, so I will use a "screw in light socket power adapter" to give power to the camera.

No holes drilled, nothing mounted with any screws, and no wire runs longer than 2 feet.
Code:
"Possibly he knew, as he wrote this, that he was mad - because inside every madman sits a little sane man saying 'You're mad, you're mad.'" - Graham Swift
voltage drop on those tiny little wires will be problematic, but then so will most aspects of your plans. I'd scale back your security plans for this rental house and put the money into your down payment savings account.
 

TonyR

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All cameras will be "mounted" using a magnet system. I have a very powerful magnet located "behind" the soffet or wall or whatever. The camera base has a metal plate attached to it. Presto.. instant mount. They work very well, as the magnets are extremely strong. Even through drywall.
Interesting. I have an Amcrest IP2M-842 bullet that appears by Google images to have the same base as yours and it is made out of non-ferrous metal, hence a magnet won't hold it.
 

tangent

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All cameras will be "mounted" using a magnet system. I have a very powerful magnet located "behind" the soffet or wall or whatever. The camera base has a metal plate attached to it. Presto.. instant mount. They work very well, as the magnets are extremely strong. Even through drywall.
Magnets strong enough to possibly do that aren't cheap and getting them into the soffit or behind a wall doesn't seem very practical. You'd be better off with some adhesive strips.

It isn't that great of a camera, but I'm actually thinking something like wyzecam might be something you should consider in the near term.
 

Jimbob

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Interesting. I have an Amcrest IP2M-842 bullet that appears by Google images to have the same base as yours and it is made out of non-ferrous metal, hence a magnet won't hold it.
Crazy glue a metal plate to the base.
 

Jimbob

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Magnets strong enough to possibly do that aren't cheap and getting them into the soffit or behind a wall doesn't seem very practical.
I have access to very powerful magnets at very low cost. (It's my field of work.) Getting them behind the wall is simple, as there is already a hole for the pre-wiring on the inside locations. For the outside soffit, it's very easy to temporarily pull back the soffitt and place the magnet behind it. No drilling or holes needed.
 

TonyR

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Crazy glue a metal plate to the base.
The base IS already metal, but I know what you meant....you'll glue a ferrous metal plate to the non-ferrous metal base. Just keepin' you honest!
I have to say this...you've got an answer for everything and have a plan. I hope it all works out for you. :rolleyes:
 

tangent

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As far as trying to use motion detector wiring to power a camera, that should be a 4 conductor cable. If you doubled up the wires (2 +, 2 -) the voltage drop would probably be manageable.

I'd say don't get overly invested in a system that will only be temporary.
 
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