HikVision DS-1280ZJ-DM21 correct way for a watertight installation

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Can I have some help with how to correctly install the following please

Junction box:
HikVision DS-1280ZJ-DM21

IP cam:
HikVision DS-2CD2347G1-L(U)

The IP camera comes with a waterproof gland that seals the RJ45 connectors together in a watertight fit but I didn’t manage to get it to fit into the base and it broke off so I connected up the RJ45 connectors inside the junction box and after it rained the camera failed due to corrosion on the RJ45 connectors

I thought the junction box made it watertight but now I’m wondering if should of use tried harder to fit the supplied waterproof gland that came with the IP camera inside the junction box?

Fortunately I managed to repair the camera by looking up a pin out but as I had to cut the female RJ45 off and use an indoor rated IDC junction box I will use this camera indoors and I have another new one to put outside but I don’t want to mess this one up so I was hoping I can get some help on where I went wrong?
 

TonyR

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Sounds like the first issue was trying to get the so-called "waterproof gland" into the junction box when it broke. Then the second issue happened when you "...connected up the RJ45 connectors inside the junction box" and then you likely failed to weatherproof your connections because you thought the box was "waterproof".

The sad fact is that most typical cameras, junction boxes and connectors for cameras cannot be placed in the direct, pouring rain. Due mainly to thermal cycling (heating up and cooling off) they heat up during the day then at night when they cool off they draw in damp outside air which condenses and collects as it does not exit well. Even small drain holes in a box may be too small for the condensate to exit due to the water's surface tension and lack of positive pressure to force it out....or bugs, dirt, etc. Non-precision box and connector surfaces , poor gasket performance or improper installation can also allow moisture intrusion.

So the best idea, IMO, is for you to waterproof that so-called "waterproof" connector on the pigtail or any Ethernet connection anywhere outdoors, even if the box is under a roof eave or the connection is inside the box. Here's my suggestion for future installs:
  • Use dielectric grease on both the male RJ-45 and in the female where it connects.
  • Wrap the entire junction with self-fusing rubber tape, don't be stingy, go past barrel connector and on out pigtail a couple of inches on both ends. This self-curing or self-fusing (vulcanizing) process is also employed by Coax Seal, self-sealing mastic pads....many names and labels for the same process.
  • Over-wrap all that self-fusing rubber tape TIGHTLY with 3M 33+ or 88 vinyl electrical tape to aid and speed up the curing process but it will remain on.
  • When possible, locate camera, its pigtail and junction box with connection out of direct weather. Direct rain and direct UV shorten the life of all devices, even the ones that are rated "for outdoor use."
  • Caulk where pigtail enters camera generously with non-gassing, outdoor-rated silicone sealant.
If you need a replacement barrel connector for a broken one, try these. Although I have not personally used these, I understand they can be installed over a pre-installed RJ-45.
 
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Doug2

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Sounds like the first issue was trying to get the so-called "waterproof gland" into the junction box when it broke. Then the second issue happened when you "...connected up the RJ45 connectors inside the junction box" and then you likely failed to weatherproof your connections because you thought the box was "waterproof".

The sad fact is that most typical junction boxes and connectors for cameras cannot be placed in the direct, pouring rain. Due mainly to thermal cycling (heating up and cooling off) they heat up during the day then at night when they cool off they draw in damp outside air which condenses and collects as it does not exit well. Even small drain holes in a box may be too small for the condensate to exit due to the water's surface tension and lack of positive pressure to force it out....or bugs, dirt, etc. Non-precision box and connector surfaces , poor gasket performance or improper installation can also allow moisture intrusion.

So the best idea, IMO, is for you to waterproof that so-called "waterproof" connector on the pigtail or any Ethernet connection anywhere outdoors, even if the box is under a roof eave or the connection is inside the box. Here's my suggestion for future installs:
  • Use dielectric grease on both the male RJ-45 and in the female where it connects.
  • Wrap the entire junction with self-fusing rubber tape, don't be stingy, go past barrel connector and on out pigtail a couple of inches on both ends. This self-curing or self-fusing (vulcanizing) process is also employed by Coax Seal, self-sealing mastic pads....many names and labels for the same process.
  • Over-wrap all that self-fusing rubber tape TIGHTLY with 3M 33+ or 88 vinyl electrical tape to aid and speed up the curing process but it will remain on.
  • When possible, locate camera, its pigtail and junction box with connection out of direct weather. Direct rain and direct UV shorten the life of all devices, even the ones that are rated "for outdoor use."
If you need a replacement barrel connector for a broken one, try these. Although I have not personally used these, I understand they can be installed over a pre-installed RJ-45.
We are truly indebted, Thanks Doug Old nearly irrelevant Vet with Smart, beautiful, blonde, hot wife, Sara
 

d5775927

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Sounds like the first issue was trying to get the so-called "waterproof gland" into the junction box when it broke. Then the second issue happened when you "...connected up the RJ45 connectors inside the junction box" and then you likely failed to weatherproof your connections because you thought the box was "waterproof".

The sad fact is that most typical junction boxes and connectors for cameras cannot be placed in the direct, pouring rain. Due mainly to thermal cycling (heating up and cooling off) they heat up during the day then at night when they cool off they draw in damp outside air which condenses and collects as it does not exit well. Even small drain holes in a box may be too small for the condensate to exit due to the water's surface tension and lack of positive pressure to force it out....or bugs, dirt, etc. Non-precision box and connector surfaces , poor gasket performance or improper installation can also allow moisture intrusion.

So the best idea, IMO, is for you to waterproof that so-called "waterproof" connector on the pigtail or any Ethernet connection anywhere outdoors, even if the box is under a roof eave or the connection is inside the box. Here's my suggestion for future installs:
  • Use dielectric grease on both the male RJ-45 and in the female where it connects.
  • Wrap the entire junction with self-fusing rubber tape, don't be stingy, go past barrel connector and on out pigtail a couple of inches on both ends. This self-curing or self-fusing (vulcanizing) process is also employed by Coax Seal, self-sealing mastic pads....many names and labels for the same process.
  • Over-wrap all that self-fusing rubber tape TIGHTLY with 3M 33+ or 88 vinyl electrical tape to aid and speed up the curing process but it will remain on.
  • When possible, locate camera, its pigtail and junction box with connection out of direct weather. Direct rain and direct UV shorten the life of all devices, even the ones that are rated "for outdoor use."
If you need a replacement barrel connector for a broken one, try these. Although I have not personally used these, I understand they can be installed over a pre-installed RJ-45.
What about this barrel connector:

Is it better than:
 

TonyR

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That joins two male RJ-45's under "weather-proofed" conditions

This allows a RJ-45 Male to couple with the female from the cam's pigtail, also deemed "weather-proof".
 

dimammx

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GentlePumpkin

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Trying to install a HikVision DS-2CD2347G2-L(U) on the DS-1280ZJ-DM21. When tightening the screws to mount the cam, the rubber seal disappears inside the junction box. because it's not really fixed by design against moving inwards. To you other users of this junction box, how did you fix this problem?
 

trempa92

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Big portion of installers like to drill a small hole at the bottom of junction box to have a room for any moisture or watter to leave. While having connectors placed at the top.
 

TonyR

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Big portion of installers like to drill a small hole at the bottom of junction box to have a room for any moisture or watter to leave. While having connectors placed at the top.
Unless the water is different in your country I've never seen water drain out of a small hole in the bottom of an otherwise sealed enclosure. The hole had to be large enough to overcome the surface tension of the water and lack of positive pressure inside the box before it would drain under those conditions. By the time the hole was made large enough to allow that, it was big enough for insects, mud daubers, etc. which come with their own set of problems.

I've had greater success by keeping the enclosure sealed as completely as possible, whenever possible have conduits or cables entering only at bottom (drip loop in cable) and then waterproofing the pigtail entrance into the camera AND the pigtail-to-CAT cable connection inside the junction box as described here.
 

Virga

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@TonyR Thanks for the definitive description on how to make properly watertight connections.
What’s a good way to handle having a cable coming in/out of a junction box from a side hole?
For example:
I have an Annke NCD800/ Hikvision camera that I’ll mount on an eaves soffit, since there does not appear to be a mounting box I can use.
I’ll have to use a junction box to make the connection from the pig-tail to the ethernet cable coming through the soffit. Then out of the box side hole to the camera.
By the way, a standard electrical box looks like it would be too small for a properly watertight connection and would cause the wires and connection to bend severely.
What junction box would you suggest for such situations?
 

Virga

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Thanks. Tricky part is how to make a water tight closure after getting the 3/4" pigtail connector into the box.
 

TonyR

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Thanks. Tricky part is how to make a water tight closure after getting the 3/4" pigtail connector into the box.
Go here and look at all the types and colors, metric and NPT on the page and at bottom. If the box is mounted on a vertical surface, put the gland on the bottom; form a drip loop in the cable before entering the gland where it enters the box. Wrap a layer of the self-vulcanizing tape on the cable before tightening the gland's collar down on the cable. Caulk the gland fitting on the inside of the box with outdoor-rated silicone caulk. :cool: ==>> Cable Gland Nylon Plastic Waterproof Adjustable, Cable Glands Joints Wire Protectors- Pg7, Pg9, Pg11, Pg13.5, Pg16 35pcs

cable-glands_.jpg
 
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Virga

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Thanks. If the box were mounted on a horizontal surface, such as an eaves soffit, is it reasonable to use a side hole, provide a drip loop, and caulk as above?

On a PFA130 box with the gasket in the center, and a center hole and slot to accommodate the pigtail cord, do you suggest adding the outdoor-rated silicone caulk as above?

----------
Footnote: of possible benefit to other seekers of knowledge who may happen to find their way here:
@TonyR suggested 3M 33 tape above.
I have lots of 3M 35 tape at hand, and at first I thought perhaps I could use it instead.
Checked at 3M to look up the tape, and found this PDF based on which it seemed like 33 and 35 are practically identical:
3M Vinyl Tape Performance Comparison Chart

Not entirely satisfied, I pursued further and found this link:
Vinyl Tape Quick Reference Guide
Turns out that the Target Application of 3M 33 Tape is "Permanent, low voltage primary & secondary insulation, cable jacketing and mechanical protection", and of 3M 35 tape is "Long lasting color identification & marking ."
Quite a bit of difference.
 

Rob2020

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I live in a very wet area of Oregon. That Coax Seal has made it through three Oregon rainy seasons. Highly recommended, small quantities like 5' can be found on Ebay.
 

TonyR

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Thanks. If the box were mounted on a horizontal surface, such as an eaves soffit, is it reasonable to use a side hole, provide a drip loop, and caulk as above?
Yes.
If cable coming from below and enters box, possibly no drip loop required.
On a PFA130 box with the gasket in the center, and a center hole and slot to accommodate the pigtail cord, do you suggest adding the outdoor-rated silicone caulk as above?
Likely not needed if pigtail is enclosed by mount and enters cam without ever being exposed and pigtail is in the box.
Turns out that the Target Application of 3M 33 Tape is "Permanent, low voltage primary & secondary insulation, cable jacketing and mechanical protection", and of 3M 35 tape is "Long lasting color identification & marking ."
I used various colors of #35 to color-code 240VAC / 3 phase (red, blue, black) and 480VAC / 3phase (brown, orange, yellow). It would be more expensive, though but would do in a pinch. It's also vinyl and will stretch enough like #33 to apply pressure to the 3M #2228 self-fusing rubber tape I use. IMO, the #2228 is less bulky than Coax Seal and it's on a convenient roll.
 

Virga

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I can only use up so much of the stuff for cams, so a roll or two each of 33 and 228 for me.
The 35 is handy for color coding.
Those glands for the boxes are going to be hard to figure out though, getting a size that the pigtail can go though, and seals up the pigtail cable.
 

TonyR

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Those glands for the boxes are going to be hard to figure out though, getting a size that the pigtail can go though, and seals up the pigtail cable.
Hold on a sec...which version of that cam is it...turret or bullet? Do you have an image of it which shows the pigtail and/or mount?
 
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