I don't think you can do this. Smart TVs are good at a very limited number of things. I wouldn't even use an Android (HDMI) stick ... I just plug my main gaming PC into my projector and it is about 1000x more capable than any smart TV.
I tried using the browser on my RasPi to access my Blue Iris server, but it was very slow and would time out (or something) after some interval of inactivity, so I would have to keep restarting it and accessing my Blue Iris server all over again. This meant keeping a mini-keyboard (w/touchpad) handy, etc. A real pain. So, quoting from an earlier post of mine, this is what I did:
I have two HDTVs (Sharp & Samsung) on which I wanted to be able to switch quickly to view my camera streams. After considering the suggestions in this and other threads, I decided to try a HDMI-to-Cat5e-to-HDMI converter to display the HDMI output of my NVR display (which is the BI host) on the TVs via Cat5e. I bought a dual stream unit for $93.30 from Monoprice: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2
It works great. Now when I want to view the camera streams, I switch the TV over to the HDMI input where the downstream Cat5e-HDMI converter is connected and there they are. No LAN bandwidth issues and easy for the wife and kids to use. Highly recommended.
In view of the current limitations of so-called "smart" TVs, this seems a good way to go. Plus no LAN bandwidth concerns. FWIW
you dont use the webrowser on the PI, you use the omxplayer application to load the RSTP stream directly and display it fullscreen.. omxplayer can access the onboard x264 decoders, that allows it to play back an x264 RSTP stream @ Bluray Bitrates (20Mbps+) no problem.
You should be sure this is something you'll even use. If somebody is at the door for example and you want to see them on the tv you need to at least switch the TV input, then do whatever else, it could end up taking a while to get onscreen.
its my understanding Android on the PI sucks, is very slow and unstable.. better off with a Droidstick.
I am going to my cameras on my main TV and a display by the door, but it will be wrapped in automation.. the screen by the door will always show the cameras and go to sleep and wakeup based upon a motion sensor in the entry way... the main TV will turn on the display if needed and switch inputs if the doorbell is rang or the alarm is triggered.. without any interaction.
"the main TV will turn on the display if needed and switch inputs if the doorbell is rang or the alarm is triggered.. without any interaction"
I'd be interested in how you do this. My guess is you would need a sensor to know the on/off state of your TV, and IR emitters with appropriate IR signal data to control the TV to get to the screen you need.
Fenderman, agreed. Nayr, this is REALLY interesting. I must know more! I recall struggling long ago with voltage/current/EMF sensors to sense the state of a TV, plus trying to learn the individual IR codes like the code for "turn on" and the code for "turn off", only to be told over and over that there were no discreet codes, just toggle on/off. Major PIA stuff. But with discreet on/off codes and direct digital control, this has great potential. Sadly my Acquos has no serial port (RS232 or USB). My newer Samsung "Smart TV" (now there's an oxymoron, sorta like government intelligence) has USB ports and, of course, an Ethernet port. So, the big question then is where do I find information like you did (control data/signals and protocols) to hack into the Samsung? Please share any sources, thoughts, suggestions, etc. Many thanks!
basically my entire adult life has been building up to this house and making it smart, its probably a mental complex. my father built our house with his bare hands, I cannot do that because my career needs me to be in a big city where a perpetual construction project like that wont fly.. so instead make this house uniquely mine through other engineering projects, hopefully equally as impressive .. I remember watching TV in parents basement, ~12yrs old and being annoyed that I had to turn the volume up every time the heater kicked on and then back down again after it shutoff or I'd get yelled at for having TV too loud.. So I built a device that did it for me and then nearly got my ass beat when dad found it tapped into his heater's wiring.
The TV is like 10 years old now; was a huge purchase back then for a tv like this and when I bought it the serial port was a requirement because someday I would need it.. it took about 6-7 years but finally I started using it.. I didnt even own, was still renting a tiny apartment back then.. got to plan ahead! I knew from early automation experiences that one-way control (like IR Remote) is not enough, you need two way interaction.. otherwords things get out of sync with what the program thinks is happening.. like thinking its turning a TV on when its really turning it off.
Before purchasing either the TV or my AVR I located and downloaded the documentation that outlines command codes and reviewed it to ensure the capabilities I was looking for were available.. trying to get this after the fact is almost certainly going to result in a failure unless your really lucky.. System integrators have been using the serial control forever and there available from most brands but it is the higher end models that seem to even have them, and then only on select models.. the docs are public and usually available right from the manufacturer's website.
My AVR is in the racks in the basement and the TV is on a fireplace mantle with a hidden HDMI cable and a long-run USB cable going to a small hub behind it, the hub breaks out to a usb to serial cable, bluetooth module, Z-Wave stick and a cheap webcam (that will be replaced by a IPCam soon).. all that plugs into my lil CuBox ArchLinux-ARM powered automation server locked in an in-wall security panel in my datacenter.