How do you wire all your IP cams?

I stand corrected on the extension cord

tho john you seem to have a bit of a attitude in all your responses you get defensive acting like you want a argument. I still wouldn't trust ether net cable exposed to any outside environment. And no I wasn't trying to make anyone look like anything but now that you mention it your doing a fine job yourself with your hostility thru your post

To each is there own I guess I'd rather do it the right way rather then the short cut
 
ServiceXP, sorry the answer was directed at you but the hostility was directed at code2. I should of used quotes and separated it a little better but I was using my tiny phone.

code2, I can take a quick look at your feed and tell you just came here to be a contrarian. I think urban dictionary might have a term for someone who acts as a contrarian on internet forums?

Service XP, yes POE does require more power but it is still low voltage, not dangerous, and potential is not catastrophic. It is possible that something chews through it and causes a short? Yes. In that case I would address the infestation and/or flooding first. Evidently those events are less common than we would think because service calls for troubleshooting cost way more than installation. A giant monopolistic corporation has already done that math for us.

I was just saying, don't worry about it unless it becomes a problem. Is it ideal? No. Do you have many alternatives? Yes. Are they economical or practical to implement if it's already installed and not broken? No. Just let it ride at this point.
 
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johngalt said:
ServiceXP, sorry the answer was directed at you but the hostility was directed at code2. I should of used quotes and separated it a little better but I was using my tiny phone.

code2, I can take a quick look at your feed and tell you just came here to be a contrarian. I think urban dictionary might have a term for someone who acts as a contrarian on internet forums?

Service XP, yes POE does require more power but it is still low voltage, not dangerous, and potential is not catastrophic. It is possible that something chews through it and causes a short? Yes. In that case I would address the infestation and/or flooding first. Evidently those events are less common than we would think because service calls for troubleshooting cost way more than installation. A giant monopolistic corporation has already done that math for us.

I was just saying, don't worry about it unless it becomes a problem. Is it ideal? No. Do you have many alternatives? Yes. Are they economical or practical to implement if it's already installed and not broken? No. Just let it ride at this point.
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Actually johngalt your hostility started with service a few post prior where you assumed he was talking down to you. My post where simply that what does you resume or coax have to do with Ethernet cable you never responded responded to it. You can reference a non official dictionary for insults all you want I'm not phased by it. But the fact still remains you have and still have a hostile attitude and still continue to prove how much of a sensitive sally you are. Moving on unless you want to continue we can go to private message so as not to contest this thread anymore
 
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johngalt said:
ServiceXP, sorry the answer was directed at you but the hostility was directed at code2. I should of used quotes and separated it a little better but I was using my tiny phone.

SNIP

Service XP, yes POE does require more power but it is still low voltage, not dangerous, and potential is not catastrophic. It is possible that something chews through it and causes a short? Yes. In that case I would address the infestation and/or flooding first. Evidently those events are less common than we would think because service calls for troubleshooting cost way more than installation. A giant monopolistic corporation has already done that math for us.

I was just saying, don't worry about it unless it becomes a problem. Is it ideal? No. Do you have many alternatives? Yes. Are they economical or practical to implement if it's already installed and not broken? No. Just let it ride at this point.
Click to expand...

Understood...

I can't do things that way but it's probably because of my experience in my field (HVAC/R). There is one thing I can assure you, (at least in the state/city I work) there isn't an inspector that would let something like this go. Our work has to pass several inspections before the stamp of approval is completed, and no inspector I've ever worked with would allow for the miss use of wire types and their proper application. I don't see what's you've described around here with any of the trades (phone, video, audio, data or electrical) on any construction site I've been on. Everything is properly buried, tacked, run and protected, and if it's not, it soon will be.

I have repaired, on a number of occasions, melted down low and high voltage wire, that have completely carbonized the inside of the boxes and conduit, some correctly installed and some incorrectly installed. For me, If I see something that is not correct, I try and correct it. Just because something is working, installed incorrectly doesn't mean that it can do harm in the future.

I don't know about you, but Murphy is always following me... :onthego:
 
Low Voltage isn't permitted and inspected here on residential dwellings. Yeah, not optimal but I wouldn't run out and spend $500 and a weekend on my back mounting unistrut between floor trusses so I could run liquidtite conduit all over the place. The cable will probably be fine. A direct bury cable with dielectric gel would of been better. There just isn't a perfect way to do MAC work on a mobile home. If it was my place, I would shoot cat5e cable across the crawl space with one of those Greenlee dropped ceiling guns and forget about it. If you have trusses you can easily fasten to, do so. However, I don't remember a single mobile home that didn't have thick black vapor barrier holding insulation in place to hide the heavily spaced steel trusses. I would avoid penetrating that as much as possible. That stuff tears once you penetrate it and I wouldn't want critters finding a place to nest in my insulation. I'd rather have them possibly - maybe getting a taste of my cable. (Did you know rodent resistant direct bury is designed to taste bad to rodents?)

A large construction site/commercial work would be another topic.

My biggest concern would be how hot is the inside of the box containing the POE getting? You can prevent that thing from burning out and costing you more money than necessary.
 
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This is my new user name old one would not work or reset it. Anyway

I'm not here to fight only looking for advice for my situation.

How else can i power a POE outside in a box without using a extension cord? I have no idea how hot the box gets.
 
Chris83A said:
This is my new user name old one would not work or reset it. Anyway

I'm not here to fight only looking for advice for my situation.

How else can i power a POE outside in a box without using a extension cord? I have no idea how hot the box gets.
Click to expand...
You have two options...
1) install an outdoor power outlet to code, if that is possbile
2) use a device like this https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...lIw&ei=i5ExVdi4Lob4yASUj4HgCA&ved=0CMwDEKYrMA
which is a poe switch that is power by poe...you are limited to 4 cameras per switch... to power 4 cameras you will need to power this with a poe+ injector OR https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...KA&ei=NpIxVYnWGoixyQSDmYH4Dg&ved=0CJ0EEKYrMAM
poe+ will provide 22w of total output power and their dedicated injector will provide 30w...so it depends on your cameras draw..
 
I would run the wires inside the house to a switch. I don't think you need to put the ethernet cable in conduit since it's only dc current that's 48v. Lot better than putting a permanent extension cord outside. If you are worried about running the camera wires again you can hook a keystone jack up to the end doing into switch and extend it out to your new location. Better than your trailer burning down. I've seen my share of trailer fires, it doesn't work out well
 
johngalt said:
What outlet feeds the extension cord?
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it's a outside GFCI outlet. I cut one end of the extension cord and pulled it through the plastic box and put a new end on so it stays out of the weather. I'm sure the box gets very warm in the summer months. The CAT6 i used is direct burial.

The box still gets moisture in it over time i was thinking about putting some silica packs in side it and switch them out every few months.
 
You can use some grommeted strain reliefs, like a Crouse Hinds CGB fitting, to give seal around your cord. Ideally you would run metallic liquid tight conduit from a bell box to another bell box, and use THHN wire inside sized properly for the circuit amperage. Then you would have it all in all nicely laid out in an expensive Hoffman box.

Here is a link to that an example for that fitting. May be able to find them at a big box, but an electrical supply house will have more sizes. Other companies make them too. It basically has a rubber insert that compresses around the cord as you tighten it down, alleviating moisture from entering through the junction box knockouts.

https://www.galco.com/buy/Crouse-Hinds/CGB193SG

Do a google image search for "metallic liquid tight" and "red dot electrical box" to see the materials you should be using to do it properly.
 
Not sure how much breathing that POE switch gets to do, but you may want to figure out how to take some temps in hot weather before you invest to much time trying to keep it under the deck. Keeping water out of a box housing powered electronics means your trapping heat in.
 
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