IPC-T5842T-ZE

I have all 3 cams and the 5442 is setting alongside a 4k-X 3.6mm as B/W sky cams. A 4K-X 2.8mm and a 5842 cover the front in color full time
as spotter cams and alerts. Then the short range "limited" Swann cams take over.
 
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Hi, I am trying to set this camera up now. It fails to initialize in the config application. The error states, "network error, maybe timeout." I have tried several things with the same result, including trying the IP address directly in a browser. Any suggestions? Thanks.
 
EyeseesAll said:
Hi, I am trying to set this camera up now. It fails to initialize in the config application. The error states, "network error, maybe timeout." I have tried several things with the same result, including trying the IP address directly in a browser. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Just change your computer's ip to 192.168.1.xxx then can be done.
 
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yeah sounds like your home LAN is different than the IP of the camera.

The default IP address of the camera is 192.168.1.108, which may or may not be the IP address range of your system.

Unhook a computer or laptop from the internet and go into ethernet settings and using the IPv4 settings manually change the IP address to 192.168.1.100

1643659199778.png









Then go to INTERNET EXPLORER (needs to be Explorer and not Edge or Chrome with IE tab) and type in 192.168.1.108 (default IP address of Dahua cameras) and you will then access the camera.

Tell it you are in the USA and give it a user and password.

Then go to the camera Network settings and change the camera IP address to the range of your system and hit save.

You will then lose the camera connection.

Then reverse the process to put your computer back on your network IP address range.

Next open up INTERNET EXPLORER and type in the new IP address that you just gave the camera to access it.
 
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wittaj said:
yeah sounds like your home LAN is different than the IP of the camera.

The default IP address of the camera is 192.168.1.108, which may or may not be the IP address range of your system.

Unhook a computer or laptop from the internet and go into ethernet settings and using the IPv4 settings manually change the IP address to 192.168.1.100

1643659199778.png









Then go to INTERNET EXPLORER (needs to be Explorer and not Edge or Chrome with IE tab) and type in 192.168.1.108 (default IP address of Dahua cameras) and you will then access the camera.

Tell it you are in the USA and give it a user and password.

Then go to the camera Network settings and change the camera IP address to the range of your system and hit save.

You will then lose the camera connection.

Then reverse the process to put your computer back on your network IP address range.

Next open up INTERNET EXPLORER and type in the new IP address that you just gave the camera to access it.
Click to expand...


Thank you. This did the trick. I should have noticed the IP difference, but since the config tool "saw" it, I kept stubbornly assuming it was the same range. Thanks again.
 
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Camera from Empiretech is installed and working great. My only concern is the space between the lens turret and the body. Please take a look at the pic. Maybe I screwed it up when I was putting the mount on. Any concern about bugs or weather getting inside? It is underneath a large patio so it should not be too exposed. Just wanted opinions if I should do something. Thanks.
 

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Thanks @EyeseesAll the turrst is bit popular here. No worry at all, it seals bit well, and IP66 waterproof, bugs can't fly into it, lol.
 
Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.

But first, run H264, smart codec off, CBR, and 8192 bitrate to start. This should make it more crisp.

I think you should also take off manual IR - your camera is low so you are getting a lot of IR bounce off the ground that is degrading the picture.

Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-30 (day)for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared.

Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night image results in Casper during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?

So if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 16.67ms (but certainly not above 30ms) as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter.

You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image.

You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.

But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.

Do not use backlight features until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. And if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible.

After every setting adjustment, have someone walk around outside and see if you can freeze-frame to get a clean image. If not, keep changing until you do. Clean motion pictures are what we are after, not a clean static image.
 
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