Is there such a thing as a Low voltage or POE powered IR Illuminator?

go to for POE IR lights
I’ve had this same thought. An Illuminator and Poe splitter is more than many low end cams.
 
I had bought a junk 1MP $17 camera off aliexpress one time that had a bunch of big IR LEDs in it.

I do the same with an old POE GW Security bullet cam that I have. The cam sucked but the thing is an IR cannon.
 
I do the same with an old POE GW Security bullet cam that I have. The cam sucked but the thing is an IR cannon.

OMG. This is so . . . brilliant! :rofl:

Any recommendations for specific models of IR cannon?
 
Any recommendations for specific models of IR cannon?

This is the one that I have. 8 big IR LEDs in lenses. Stinks as a cam. I don't even bother to bring it into BI. Just use it for IR. I can't link directly to the picture in the review that someone did but if you look you'll see how bad the IR glare is. lol But it also lights up the driveway all the way out to the street so... Don't buy it unless you can find one cheap somewhere. I think that it was one that I got on Amazon Warehouse for like $10 or $15-ish.



51Y67wy%2BxfL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
 
As an Amazon Associate IPCamTalk earns from qualifying purchases.
  • Like
Reactions: TheWaterbug
Thanks! It looks like that camera's not available at retail any more. The 2-star reviews probably doomed it :rofl:

I'm thinking some mfr should save themselves $10 in BOM costs and just make an "IR Cannon", using the design of an existing camera, but with no sensor and no lens!

They should even use "IR Cannon" as the marketing name, and pay you royalties!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Flintstone61
Last edited:
OMG. This is so . . . brilliant! :rofl:

I also just realized the following: I have 2 Reolink cameras that I want to upgrade. I was going to rip them out and replace them with new cameras, but now I'll just move them slightly and use them as IR illuminators!

What can I do on these cameras (RLC-410) to reduce their power consumption? I don't need the camera function to . . . function, but I do need it to power up and turn on its LEDs.

I also have a dead Microseven camera that no longer connects via Ethernet, and I turned off the WiFi, but I can't turn it back on because I can't log into it. But when I plug it into a POE switch the illuminators light up. So there's yet a 3rd "free" IR illuminator at my disposal.
 
I also just realized the following: I have 2 Reolink cameras that I want to upgrade. I was going to rip them out and replace them with new cameras, but now I'll just move them slightly and use them as IR illuminators!

Will this help with the spider/dust problem that I see so frequently?
 
Will this help with the spider/dust problem that I see so frequently?

Yes, should if you turn off IR on the cam and put up the IR up away from it. Some at least for whatever is attracted to the light. I don't get much at all on mine without vs cams with IR on. Also less IR reflection when there's lots of mist.
 
I also just realized the following: I have 2 Reolink cameras that I want to upgrade. I was going to rip them out and replace them with new cameras, but now I'll just move them slightly and use them as IR illuminators!

What can I do on these cameras (RLC-410) to reduce their power consumption? I don't need the camera function to . . . function, but I do need it to power up and turn on its LEDs.

Might be more trouble than it's worth but if you take the cam apart you can look and see if the board that controls the IR is separate from the cam board, Most that I'd looked at have several boards inside with connectors for power and signal/data between them. Might be able to disconnect the cam board if separate. That would just be pulling a connector vs desoldering/cutting anything.
 
I'd say take the guts out of the Reolinks and use the housings for planters or convert them to low voltage lights. Heck, you might be able to stuff an IR illuminator in there instead, but a regular IR is lower profile than a camera.
 
I'd say take the guts out of the Reolinks and use the housings for planters or convert them to low voltage lights. Heck, you might be able to stuff an IR illuminator in there instead, but a regular IR is lower profile than a camera.

The advantage of using the existing Reolink cameras is that they're already POE-compliant. If I use an external IR illuminator then I need to add a POE 12V extractor, which adds cost and another potential point of failure.
 
Do any of the popular, affordable cameras have 12 V out for powering an external illuminator? That would avoid having to tie up another POE port and/or cable. It shouldn't add much to the overall power consumption because then the internal LEDs would be switched off.
 
Do any of the popular, affordable cameras have 12 V out for powering an external illuminator? That would avoid having to tie up another POE port and/or cable. It shouldn't add much to the overall power consumption because then the internal LEDs would be switched off.

Hmmm. I'll partially answer my own question, because I have 3 cameras with 12 VDC input jacks that I can easily measure right now:
  1. Microseven M7B77-WPSE power input measures 12 V when the camera's connected to POE
  2. Amcrest IP5M-T1179EW-28MM power input measures 3.5 V
  3. Reolink RLC-420-5MP power input measures 2.5 V
If I were to guess, the Amcrest and Reolink power connectors are internally diode-protected against having that connector shorted to GND, which also prevents the power in from being used as power out. If my guess is correct, I wonder how difficult it would be to bypass that diode.

Anyone else want to measure their DC power input jack when the camera's being powered over POE?

Anyone have experience using the power in as a power out?
 
Get a PoE splitter and a "Y" cable. Simple, neat, solution. In terms of a failure point it's almost non-existent. A typical camera draws about 7 watts with the IR on. In a case like this it'll be under 5 watts with the IR off. A single PoE port will support the load without even breathing hard.


 
As an Amazon Associate IPCamTalk earns from qualifying purchases.
Get a PoE splitter and a "Y" cable.

Ah, so pick off the 12V from the POE and power both the camera and the illuminator from 12 V.

Sometimes I have the dumb. :facepalm:
 
  • Like
Reactions: sebastiantombs
Heck, if you haven't done it or seen it, nothing wrong there. That's called learning :)
 
Hmmm. I'll partially answer my own question, because I have 3 cameras with 12 VDC input jacks that I can easily measure right now:
  1. Microseven M7B77-WPSE power input measures 12 V when the camera's connected to POE
  2. Amcrest IP5M-T1179EW-28MM power input measures 3.5 V
  3. Reolink RLC-420-5MP power input measures 2.5 V
If I were to guess, the Amcrest and Reolink power connectors are internally diode-protected against having that connector shorted to GND, which also prevents the power in from being used as power out. If my guess is correct, I wonder how difficult it would be to bypass that diode.

Anyone else want to measure their DC power input jack when the camera's being powered over POE?

Anyone have experience using the power in as a power out?

Hmmm. After cobbling together a new Amcrest camera with a POE extractor, a 12 V splitter, and a DC extension cable for the external IR illuminator, it looks like a contraption. I'm re-considering my idea of using the 12 V input connector on a camera as a 12 V output. Has anyone tried this?

I figure the easiest mod would be to find 12 V somewhere inside the camera and wire that directly to the 12 V connector. That's the least amount of surgery, but also most risky to the camera in case of a short or a mis-wire (such as attaching a 12 V supply to it).

Next more difficult would be to put a diode or resistor something in there, just for some minimal protection.

More complicated would be to take the power cable for the built-in LEDs and use it to control a solid-state switch or relay for the 12 V, so that the 12 V only goes out when the camera would otherwise expect to turn on its own LEDs (basically replacing the internal LEDs with the external LEDs). This would prevent both sets of LEDs from being on at the same time, which would also protect against drawing way too much current on the POE.

I just de-commissioned two Reolink cameras, so depending on how difficult they are to disassemble I may attempt this when I have some free time. I need to re-use one of them as my honeycomb time lapse, so I can only afford to fry one of them.