Lorex cable connection standard

[MikeCarey]

New (and inexperienced) user here, looking for some advice.

I have purchased a Lorex IP Ultra HD camera system and NVR for home installation. I took the chance whilst having an extension built to route the Lorex supplied cabling through the walls/floors of my house. However, to do this I had to cut the plug off one end of each cable. The plan is to terminate the four cables in sockets, then patch each to the NVR. I am unsure, however, whether the cabling is constructed to T-568A or T-568B standards. Anyone know?

I am aware that many Lorex systems use bespoke colour coding standards. Yet, it seems that these recently supplied Lorex cables have 8 cores and use standard IP cable colours in twisted pairs. So I am assuming they will be wired either to T-568A or T-568B.

Before you ask… I did call Lorex technical support, but they quickly washed their hands of me when they discovered I had cut their precious cables! No response there. Also, I stupidly threw away the plugs I cut off some time ago, so cannot split open a plug to find out the wiring standard.

 

[wittaj]

Oh we won't ask if you called Lorex technical support because we know they suck LOL.

Different brand, but this thread may provide some benefit as most Lorex is Dahua OEM:

Help: Ethernet Cables Not Working - Cat5e vs Swann Ethernet

Having a very frustrating problem with new Swann system. Problem: My ethernet cables DO NOT work with the camera, but the cables that came with the unit do. Notes: 1. I personally ran Cat5e cables throughout my house and have an ethernet tester which I confirmed cables were wired correctly...

ipcamtalk.com

And some of these many threads:

IPC-T5442T-ZE PoE Pinout Tip - For Broken Connector RJ45

I just wanted to make a post to help others in the future. Recently I damaged the end of my connector on IPC-T5442T-ZE Black Camera. Dahua IPC-T5442T-ZE uses the T568A pin out. Not the B more prevalent method here is US. Originally I had it wired like image IMG_9537.jpg (B). However camera...

ipcamtalk.com

T568A vs T568B pinout for cameras

Has anyone experienced issues with using the T568A pinout and getting Amcrest cameras to work? I have some of the empire tech rebranded Dahaus and they have worked perfectly with my Cat 5e cable that is terminated with T568A pinout on both ends. When I hook up the Amcrest ip5m-t1179ew-36mm I...

ipcamtalk.com

Lorex LNB8105X pinout diagram

Hi, I have a Lorex LNB8105X and I accidentally tripped on the wire, the camera connector was pulled out. As you see on the connector (female) on picture #1 the only thing I know for sure, is that the blue wire is on connector 6. If you look at picture #2, you will see what I am working with. I...

ipcamtalk.com

 

[TonyR]

New (and inexperienced) user here, looking for some advice.

I have purchased a Lorex IP Ultra HD camera system and NVR for home installation. I took the chance whilst having an extension built to route the Lorex supplied cabling through the walls/floors of my house. However, to do this I had to cut the plug off one end of each cable. The plan is to terminate the four cables in sockets, then patch each to the NVR. I am unsure, however, whether the cabling is constructed to T-568A or T-568B standards. Anyone know?

I am aware that many Lorex systems use bespoke colour coding standards. Yet, it seems that these recently supplied Lorex cables have 8 cores and use standard IP cable colours in twisted pairs. So I am assuming they will be wired either to T-568A or T-568B.

Before you ask… I did call Lorex technical support, but they quickly washed their hands of me when they discovered I had cut their precious cables! No response there. Also, I stupidly threw away the plugs I cut off some time ago, so cannot split open a plug to find out the wiring standard.

Did you cut the connector off because of the 3/4" to 1" hole required for the camera's pigtail?

If so, maybe next go-around consider this: they make junction boxes for specific make/model of cameras that houses and protects the pigtail from direct exposure to moisture and sunlight. The box also facilitates future replacement of the cam and may even assist with IR bouceback from gutters and eave edges by standing the cam off a bit from the soffit or wall, depending on how/where the camera and box is mounted and how the cam is oriented.

You purchase and install CAT-5e or 6 solid (not stranded) copper (not CCA/Copper Clad Aluminum) conductors with an outer jacket rated for the application. Use a CMR (R = Riser) jacket cable for use in-walls, under and between floors, crawlspaces and attics.

The un-terminated cable is only 3/8" diameter so the hole you drill is less than HALF the size needed for the entire pigtail and its connector(s). You pull the cable into the box, terminate it with the RJ-45 male connector that is correct for the cable you are using and test it. Once tested as "good", plug it into the cam's pigtail and weatherproof the connection as outlined here.

P.S. - Welcome to IPCT !

 

[Starglow]

Just buy this cheap cable tester on Amazon and test your cables after you get them installed to make sure they're wired correctly before installing the cameras. I also have Lorex cameras but I ran all new Cat6 cables instead of using theirs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M63EMBQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[wittaj]

Keep in mind a tester simply tests continuity and that it could pass but still not work as happened in the post I linked above.

 

[tangent]

New (and inexperienced) user here, looking for some advice.

I have purchased a Lorex IP Ultra HD camera system and NVR for home installation. I took the chance whilst having an extension built to route the Lorex supplied cabling through the walls/floors of my house. However, to do this I had to cut the plug off one end of each cable. The plan is to terminate the four cables in sockets, then patch each to the NVR. I am unsure, however, whether the cabling is constructed to T-568A or T-568B standards. Anyone know?

I am aware that many Lorex systems use bespoke colour coding standards. Yet, it seems that these recently supplied Lorex cables have 8 cores and use standard IP cable colours in twisted pairs. So I am assuming they will be wired either to T-568A or T-568B.

Before you ask… I did call Lorex technical support, but they quickly washed their hands of me when they discovered I had cut their precious cables! No response there. Also, I stupidly threw away the plugs I cut off some time ago, so cannot split open a plug to find out the wiring standard.

One end of the cable is intact you may be able to visually inspect that end. You could also probe it electrically with a cable tester or even a multimeter in continuity / resistance mode.
You could also cut off the other end of the cable to ensure both are terminated in the same way.

If you properly allocate the twisted pairs even if you don't quite follow T568A/B is may work especially at shorter distances (you'd get a bit more crosstalk).

 

[Starglow]

Assuming the OP is using Keystone wall jacks (he called them sockets) then the wire color codes are on the jack housing.

 

[TonyR]

I also have Lorex cameras but I ran all new Cat6 cables instead of using theirs.

+1.....
I've thrown away the CCA cables that Amcrest provided some clients on 2 different installs; many, if not most, kit-furnished CAT cables are CCA and not solid, pure copper.
To me, the biggest giveaway is when you compare the weight of a 50 ft. CCA cable and a 50 ft. solid copper cable...the CCA is noticeably lighter.

 

[Flintstone61]

New (and inexperienced) user here, looking for some advice.

I have purchased a Lorex IP Ultra HD camera system and NVR for home installation. I took the chance whilst having an extension built to route the Lorex supplied cabling through the walls/floors of my house. However, to do this I had to cut the plug off one end of each cable. The plan is to terminate the four cables in sockets, then patch each to the NVR. I am unsure, however, whether the cabling is constructed to T-568A or T-568B standards. Anyone know?

I am aware that many Lorex systems use bespoke colour coding standards. Yet, it seems that these recently supplied Lorex cables have 8 cores and use standard IP cable colours in twisted pairs. So I am assuming they will be wired either to T-568A or T-568B.

Before you ask… I did call Lorex technical support, but they quickly washed their hands of me when they discovered I had cut their precious cables! No response there. Also, I stupidly threw away the plugs I cut off some time ago, so cannot split open a plug to find out the wiring standard.

Cut off the other end too and terminate to 568b if they used a ieee standard color code. pin 1 being orange/white pin 2 orange pin 3 green/white pin6 green....if i remember right.

 

[MikeCarey]

Oh we won't ask if you called Lorex technical support because we know they suck LOL.

Different brand, but this thread may provide some benefit as most Lorex is Dahua OEM:

Help: Ethernet Cables Not Working - Cat5e vs Swann Ethernet

Having a very frustrating problem with new Swann system. Problem: My ethernet cables DO NOT work with the camera, but the cables that came with the unit do. Notes: 1. I personally ran Cat5e cables throughout my house and have an ethernet tester which I confirmed cables were wired correctly...

ipcamtalk.com

And some of these many threads:

IPC-T5442T-ZE PoE Pinout Tip - For Broken Connector RJ45

I just wanted to make a post to help others in the future. Recently I damaged the end of my connector on IPC-T5442T-ZE Black Camera. Dahua IPC-T5442T-ZE uses the T568A pin out. Not the B more prevalent method here is US. Originally I had it wired like image IMG_9537.jpg (B). However camera...

ipcamtalk.com

T568A vs T568B pinout for cameras

Has anyone experienced issues with using the T568A pinout and getting Amcrest cameras to work? I have some of the empire tech rebranded Dahaus and they have worked perfectly with my Cat 5e cable that is terminated with T568A pinout on both ends. When I hook up the Amcrest ip5m-t1179ew-36mm I...

ipcamtalk.com

Lorex LNB8105X pinout diagram

Hi, I have a Lorex LNB8105X and I accidentally tripped on the wire, the camera connector was pulled out. As you see on the connector (female) on picture #1 the only thing I know for sure, is that the blue wire is on connector 6. If you look at picture #2, you will see what I am working with. I...

ipcamtalk.com

Oh we won't ask if you called Lorex technical support because we know they suck LOL.

Different brand, but this thread may provide some benefit as most Lorex is Dahua OEM:

Help: Ethernet Cables Not Working - Cat5e vs Swann Ethernet

Having a very frustrating problem with new Swann system. Problem: My ethernet cables DO NOT work with the camera, but the cables that came with the unit do. Notes: 1. I personally ran Cat5e cables throughout my house and have an ethernet tester which I confirmed cables were wired correctly...

ipcamtalk.com

And some of these many threads:

IPC-T5442T-ZE PoE Pinout Tip - For Broken Connector RJ45

I just wanted to make a post to help others in the future. Recently I damaged the end of my connector on IPC-T5442T-ZE Black Camera. Dahua IPC-T5442T-ZE uses the T568A pin out. Not the B more prevalent method here is US. Originally I had it wired like image IMG_9537.jpg (B). However camera...

ipcamtalk.com

T568A vs T568B pinout for cameras

Has anyone experienced issues with using the T568A pinout and getting Amcrest cameras to work? I have some of the empire tech rebranded Dahaus and they have worked perfectly with my Cat 5e cable that is terminated with T568A pinout on both ends. When I hook up the Amcrest ip5m-t1179ew-36mm I...

ipcamtalk.com

Lorex LNB8105X pinout diagram

Hi, I have a Lorex LNB8105X and I accidentally tripped on the wire, the camera connector was pulled out. As you see on the connector (female) on picture #1 the only thing I know for sure, is that the blue wire is on connector 6. If you look at picture #2, you will see what I am working with. I...

ipcamtalk.com

Thanks for all the posts! I think I am going to test wire the cut end as per T-568A standard, get an Ethernet cable tester then test for continuity and corresponding pin outs. Seems that Dahua use that standard (as per the posts you provided), so a promising place to start.

 

[MikeCarey]

One end of the cable is intact you may be able to visually inspect that end. You could also probe it electrically with a cable tester or even a multimeter in continuity / resistance mode.
You could also cut off the other end of the cable to ensure both are terminated in the same way.

If you properly allocate the twisted pairs even if you don't quite follow T568A/B is may work especially at shorter distances (you'd get a bit more crosstalk).

I left the waterproof gland on the external end of the cable, so would rather not cut anything off at that end. Note the point about matching the twisted pairs. I am gradually learning not to assume anything with Lorex kit!

 

[MikeCarey]

Noted

Keep in mind a tester simply tests continuity and that it could pass but still not work as happened in the post I linked above.

Noted and good advice. However, I am using the provided Lorex cables as already installed in the walls, so they should work (even if Lorex technical support suggested that re terminating the wires could cause the “sky to fall in“ or something similarly catastrophic!)

 

[wittaj]

Noted


Noted and good advice. However, I am using the provided Lorex cables as already installed in the walls, so they should work (even if Lorex technical support suggested that re terminating the wires could cause the “sky to fall in“ or something similarly catastrophic!)

Even so, we have had MANY people here after running cable and the tester shows it is fine that it didn't work... They cut off the plugs and try again and it works.

The consumer grade testers only test continuity. Unless you are using a true Fluke tester (that costs thousands of dollars LOL), the cheap testers simply measure continuity. That is NOT all that matters.

Personally I don't put much stock in the cheapo testers LOL. I have had them pass and I plug the camera in and it doesn't work.

So now I simply plug the camera in and if I don't hear the IR filter click within 10-15 seconds, I know it isn't right LOL.

And all this is assuming you didn't get one of the Lorex units that doesn't use standard wiring LOL. There are a few that are non-standard and the cameras only work with Lorex stuff and are not ONVIF compliant either.

 

[MikeCarey]

Assuming the OP is using Keystone wall jacks (he called them sockets) then the wire color codes are on the jack housing.

View attachment 170726

No, I have installed an RJ25 socket unit in the back of a cupboard. The faceplate allows four sockets to be installed. Unless, of course, that is what you meant.

Assuming the OP is using Keystone wall jacks (he called them sockets) then the wire color codes are on the jack housing.

View attachment 170726

No I meant a 4 way face plate as below. Possibly that includes keystone jacks, so forgive my ignorance if we are saying the same thing.

 

[MikeCarey]

Assuming the OP is using Keystone wall jacks (he called them sockets) then the wire color codes are on the jack housing.

View attachment 170726

No, I have installed an RJ25 socket unit in the back of a cupboard. The faceplate allows four sockets to be installed. Unless, of course, that is what you meant.

Did you cut the connector off because of the 3/4" to 1" hole required for the camera's pigtail?

If so, maybe next go-around consider this: they make junction boxes for specific make/model of cameras that houses and protects the pigtail from direct exposure to moisture and sunlight. The box also facilitates future replacement of the cam and may even assist with IR bouceback from gutters and eave edges by standing the cam off a bit from the soffit or wall, depending on how/where the camera and box is mounted and how the cam is oriented.

You purchase and install CAT-5e or 6 solid (not stranded) copper (not CCA/Copper Clad Aluminum) conductors with an outer jacket rated for the application. Use a CMR (R = Riser) jacket cable for use in-walls, under and between floors, crawlspaces and attics.

The un-terminated cable is only 3/8" diameter so the hole you drill is less than HALF the size needed for the entire pigtail and its connector(s). You pull the cable into the box, terminate it with the RJ-45 male connector that is correct for the cable you are using and test it. Once tested as "good", plug it into the cam's pigtail and weatherproof the connection as outlined here.

P.S. - Welcome to IPCT !

Unfortunately the boat has sailed in terms of the cable used and already installed. With UK building construction, there are not the access spaces that can be used in a standard house to run cables retrospectively (note: plywood flooring glued and screwed down In new construction, not like conventional floor boards). I had to get the (fairly poor quality) Lorex cables in myself during a lull in construction. So to run the cables, I cut off the RJ45 plug at one end so I could feed the cable through a hole drilled in the mortar between brick courses. As the building is two storey, the cameras will be wall mounted, not attached under a soffit. However, I really appreciate the ad and suspect

Did you cut the connector off because of the 3/4" to 1" hole required for the camera's pigtail?

If so, maybe next go-around consider this: they make junction boxes for specific make/model of cameras that houses and protects the pigtail from direct exposure to moisture and sunlight. The box also facilitates future replacement of the cam and may even assist with IR bouceback from gutters and eave edges by standing the cam off a bit from the soffit or wall, depending on how/where the camera and box is mounted and how the cam is oriented.

You purchase and install CAT-5e or 6 solid (not stranded) copper (not CCA/Copper Clad Aluminum) conductors with an outer jacket rated for the application. Use a CMR (R = Riser) jacket cable for use in-walls, under and between floors, crawlspaces and attics.

The un-terminated cable is only 3/8" diameter so the hole you drill is less than HALF the size needed for the entire pigtail and its connector(s). You pull the cable into the box, terminate it with the RJ-45 male connector that is correct for the cable you are using and test it. Once tested as "good", plug it into the cam's pigtail and weatherproof the connection as outlined here.

P.S. - Welcome to IPCT !

I wanted to leave the waterproof gland attached to the Lorex cable. I then needed to feed the rest of the cable, with its RJ45 cable through a number of holes drilled through 11” masonry walls to reach the internal point where the NVR was to be installed. To avoid damaging the newly built brickwork (note: typical UK house materials), the holes were drilled through mortar courses. I found it impossible to pull through the RJ45 plug, so I had to cut it off.

So the proprietary Lorex cable is already installed. I can see the attraction of using a higher quality cable, but that ship has sailed. There is no easy way with our UK type of building construction now to run alternative cabling.

However, I really appreciate the advice and the welcome!

 

[tangent]

I left the waterproof gland on the external end of the cable, so would rather not cut anything off at that end. Note the point about matching the twisted pairs. I am gradually learning not to assume anything with Lorex kit!

Can you post a picture of that end of the cable? Does the gland move on the cable?

A little dielectric grease helps keep water out of connectors.

 

[MikeCarey]

Can you post a picture of that end of the cable? Does the gland move on the cable?

A little dielectric grease helps keep water out of connectors.

As below:

 

[Starglow]

As below:
View attachment 170807

Are you going to leave the connector exposed to the elements like that...? It is sealed, but that's going to look really tacky and will make it very easy to defeat your "security" camera from working.

 

[wittaj]

+1 above - that is not waterproof. Those things give a false sense of being waterproof.

It may be a year, may be 6 months. But if that is all you are using, you will lose a camera due to water, humidity, etc.

At the very least you need dielectric grease and self-fusing tape.

 

[TonyR]

Can you post a picture of that end of the cable? Does the gland move on the cable?

A little dielectric grease helps keep water out of connectors.

+1 above - that is not waterproof. Those things give a false sense of being waterproof.

It may be a year, may be 6 months. But if that is all you are using, you will lose a camera due to water, humidity, etc.

At the very least you need dielectric grease and self-fusing tape.

+1 to both of the above ^^ and as linked at bottom of post #3.