LPR / Security Cam duty

pbc

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Getting closer, many good shots
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, but several almost identical shots still like this:

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pbc

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Thoughts on these two? Is it just amount of light potentially that causes that drastic difference in almost identical shots?

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wittaj

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It could also be a dirty or old plate - sometimes you just get a plate that sucks.

Are you running the backlight - I use HLC at 50 and seems to balance that out.

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bigredfish

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Thanks, will adjust, I think in that larger z12E thread it started with the individual saying 5FPS was "enough" for plate captures! Will adjust to 60.

Edit: Actually, 30 FPS seems to be the max?

Also, what are folks doing with this section?

View attachment 64985
30 FPS is plenty
On IR, switch to manual 100%
 

biggen

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I think getting the plate centered more will help. Your best focus point will be at the center of the lens. Less aberration there as well.
 

pbc

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Getting a bit closer with each passing day. Still getting many of these where there basically isn't even a plate. Is that an IR issue?

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wittaj

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Probably cars without front plates?

The IR is strong enough that you would get at least a bounce back if a plate was there.

Are you running HLC? Maybe adjust that some to get some of the headlight ring out of the picture?
 

pbc

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HLC at 50, could be, though I've only seen maybe 2 or 3 cars here a day without front plates, very rare.
 

samplenhold

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Why do you have two dates and times?

Are you sure you are not in color mode? The head light reflections off the road imply that it is seeing too much visible light in stead of IR.
 

pbc

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Why do you have two dates and times?

Are you sure you are not in color mode? The head light reflections off the road imply that it is seeing too much visible light in stead of IR.
Lol...because I can't seem to remember where the date/time stamp is in BlueIris. I must have both that one and the one in the camera itself on. Do folks tend to use BI or the camera's OSD?

It's in Night and B/W mode. These exposure settings:

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samplenhold

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On the video tab uncheck Enable overlays. You want the cam's date and time, especially if you are running NTP and are doing direct-to-disk.
 

wittaj

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Oh that is the problem - do not run a customized range for the shutter as you have a straight on angle so the headlights will mess with the shutter speed and focus - run it manual at 1/2000
 

pbc

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Ok,..run at 1/2000 for day and night?

Suggestions on gain?

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pbc

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Hmm..messing with the exposure must have also mucked up my focus since I'm losing way more plates now.
 

wittaj

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Yea, every time the shutter is changed, it tries to autofocus, which I think was part of the issue with the customized range.

It is why I say to go to the focus and zoom feature and put speed to 1 so that you can then hover over the slider bar to see what the zoom and focus numbers are.

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If you did that and wrote those down, simply go back to the focus and slide the slider to that number and you are back in business!

Start gain at 35 and then work from there.
 

biggen

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How are you switching between Day and Night mode?

You have to make sure that there is enough daylight for the camera to switch between the two in order to set focus since running these real fast shutters (e.g. 1/2000) will produce a very dim image at sunset/sunrise. What most of us do is setup a program to switch the camera to night mode 30 minutes to 1 hour before sunset and then back to day mode 30 minutes to 1 hour after sunrise. That way the camera can do its autofocus properly.

If you rely on the camera's "auto" function to switch between day/night then you may have focus issues with these fast shutter speeds. The auto function relies on an ambient lighting sensor and the camera won't switch over until its real dark.
 
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