Mini-Review - 5442-ZE-S3 AKA T54IR-ZE-S3 - Replacement to 5442-ZE

wittaj

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As many of us are aware, Dahua decided to keep the same model numbers of some of their most popular models like the 5442-Z12E and the 5442 series cameras, but they have been updated with a newer GUI and specs that on paper show better than the previous version as was discussed in this thread even though they have the same size sensor as the previous generation.

I previously did a mini-review of the new 5241-Z12E here, as well as the 5442-Z4E comparison between the old Z4E and the new Z4E.

Many of the specs remained the same. Similar to the 5442 series with the new chipset, the minimum illumination was the biggest change:

Minimum Illumination old Z4E:
0.002Lux/F1.5 ( Color,1/3s,30IRE)
0.020Lux/F1.5 ( Color,1/30s,30IRE)
0Lux/F1.5 (IR on) IR Distance Distance up to 200m (656ft)

Minimum Illumination new Z4E-S3:
0.0007 lux @ F1.5 (Color, 30 IRE)
0.0004 lux @ F1.5 (B/W, 30 IRE)
0 lux (Illuminator on)

This new version can be purchased from @EMPIRETECANDY at his EmpireTech website or Amazon.

I have stated this before, but the more I play with the new GUI on my other cameras that have the new GUI (4K-T, mini-PTZ, T180) the more I start to like it. It has way more options and flexibility. It still has some quirks as well LOL.

This model has AcuPick like the Z4E model, but as mentioned, you need an NVR capable of using this feature for it to work.

The mic is one of the best I have heard from these cameras. Picks up everything.

Another cool feature they added is the ability to add a counter on the image.

1700578518659.png



I was cautiously optimistic that maybe this one could trigger for animals and would be of a benefit to those that like to capture wildlife:

1700578626977.png

Unfortunately in my testing, it didn't trigger for an animal even with target checked off. I will keep playing with it though.


It does have great range of IVS capability picking up a person on the other side of the street:

1700579336707.png


For testing, I placed this right next to an existing 5442-ZE.

From the Z4E review, you might remember that the old Z4E had a slight edge over the new Z4E in daytime. At that location, I thought it was simply a saturation issue, but now I think I know what it is.

At this location, it suffers from that horrible daytime half shadow/half direct sunlight and it is a balance trying to capture both areas.

The first thing I noticed with this camera is the shadow area is lighter than the existing camera.

For many people, this is a good option to try WDR, but my personal preference is to avoid WDR for the problems it can cause if ran too high and/or not needing it for a large chunk of the day.

I think the default firmware is using some WDR or SSA or some other backlit condition, or maybe some self-adaptive even when customized is set.


So my neighbor came out while I was installing this camera and was like "another camera?" in a joking yet disturbed tone LOL, so he decided to play a prank on me later that day, but the joke is on him as I told him he is now my model LOL. You will see in a moment LOL.

ZEoldColor2.jpg

Compared to the new ZE:

ZEnewColor2.jpg

As you can see, while the overall image is better than the existing ZE, it is clear that there is some backlit at play in the new camera.

With the old camera, I can replicate this with a WDR of 10 or SSA turned on.

In this particular instance, it probably does make the image better in the daytime, but as seen with the Z4E, it does tend to "wash out" the image in conditions where backlit is not needed. Something for @EMPIRETECANDY to check with Dahua about the baseline firmware condition when backlit is off.


Now that we all had our laugh with the two-headed monster, I told him he was stuck doing this again at night LOL.

At night, with a 1,000 lumen white LED flood light (cheap Amazon purchase that I really question if it is 1,000 lumen), the most I could do shutter-wise with the old ZE was around 1/60s before a lot of artifacts started impacting the image. While very dark, it could still be usable in the right conditions.

ZEoldColorNight2.jpg

Under the same lighting conditions, I could get the new ZE to run double the shutter without a problem and see a whole lot more.

ZEnewColorNight2.jpg


While not as impressive of an improvement as the Z4E (that could run triple the shutter), it is still a very good improvement at night.

Turning off the white LED and going with just infrared wasn't as great of an improvement over the Z4E as I was expecting.

The existing ZE:

ZE old BW.jpg


The new ZE

ZE New BW.jpg

Now I suspect some/most of that is field of view problematic with the bushes in the way and causing some issues with exposure (note to self that bushes grow quickly!). I need to do some trimming for sure!


So there is a firmware update to this model. Looking at the release notes, all it adds is "illumination overexposure remover" which is a long way of saying Smart IR. So unless your faces are getting blown out by IR, it is a useless update. Personally I thought the night vision without this addition was better.

Personally I wouldn't update this firmware.


Now for the quirks I found in this firmware update:

Instead of one firmware update, you have three you need to do - one for the web, one for the algorithm, and one for the actual firmware. If you don't do all three, it gives you a red exclamation point by the gear icon.

For some reason this model (even with baseline firmware) doesn't come with the zoom and focus "tab" that allows you to set focus to manual, auto, or semi auto like the Z4E does.

1700582264670.png


After the update, the up and down arrows to change the shutter won't hold after an update. Once you save, it reverts back to 33.33. You need to manually type the number in.

1700582507405.png


All-in-all, it is an improvement over the existing ZE model. While I don't think the improvement is as great as I saw with the Z12E and the Z4E, it is still a great camera and certainly would still recommend this varifocal.
 
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msquared

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Thanks @wittaj, I've had my T54IR-ZE-S3 up for a couple weeks and overall I like it. I'm disappointed in the IR. It seems very hot spot towards the bottom of the frame rather than dispersed. In the location I have the camera I can actually turn the IR off, customized scene, run 20ms, B/W, and get decently clear motion at night.

What is the "Aux focus" button on the live image screen do?
 

msquared

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Thanks @wittaj, I've had my T54IR-ZE-S3 up for a couple weeks and overall I like it. I'm disappointed in the IR. It seems very hot spot towards the bottom of the frame rather than dispersed. In the location I have the camera I can actually turn the IR off, customized scene, run 20ms, B/W, and get decently clear motion at night.

What is the "Aux focus" button on the live image screen do?
 

wittaj

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Thanks @wittaj, I've had my T54IR-ZE-S3 up for a couple weeks and overall I like it. I'm disappointed in the IR. It seems very hot spot towards the bottom of the frame rather than dispersed. In the location I have the camera I can actually turn the IR off, customized scene, run 20ms, B/W, and get decently clear motion at night.

What is the "Aux focus" button on the live image screen do?
Yeah I thought my hotspot was just from the overgrown shrubs and that it is was slightly lower than my existing 5442. But I moved it and still saw it hotspot towards the bottom.

I found that the hotspot got worse with the firmware update, which is why I recommend not updating this model.

Andy sent me the latest firmware to try before he posts it, so we will see tonight if it is an improvement.

The Aux focus simply gives you a display of the numerical value for the focus (the behind the scenes numbers, not the number you see on the focus slider). The AF Peak is what the focus is right now and the AF Max is the Max focus number that field of view sees. The closer the numbers are, the better the focus.

So in my field of view for a static image, the numbers are identical. But it will change based on zoom or objects coming and going. A cars goes by and my numbers change. The goal is to have a field of view and zoom that the spread between the two numbers don't get too great.

For example, if I zoom it all the way in and then immediately take it to wide zoom, you will see the numbers be a lot different when it is out of focus and then as it focuses the numbers get closer together. At full wide zoom, my static numbers are off around 1,000 which means some areas of the field of view the focus will be soft.
 

msquared

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Do you know why the image settings on the live screen are different from the image settings on the camera tab? Does yours do this?

1700935934328.png

1700936019601.png
 

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wittaj

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From what I can tell, the tab version is what it will record, but the live view that are defaulted all at 64 is to allow for viewing adjustments on that particular monitor, which for most of us we are setting up the camera and viewing it on the same monitor, so it isn't really of much use. But if you are watching it live on a different monitor it allows you to optimize the viewing for that monitor but not mess with the settings.
 

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How do you go with the IR only at night. I only see a near and far light adjustment. I hope this is for IR only and black and white at night. I have it set to the day/night mode. Thanks, Parley
 

wittaj

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While I haven't tested it with a person yet, I can tell from the static image that this firmware version that Andy will release soon does a better job with Smart IR and fixed some of the quirks I mentioned in the previous update file. You can see the blowout in the bottom with the shrubs prior to the update and after.

Here was the static one prior to the upgrade:
static.jpg

And with the Smart IR:


SmartIR.jpg
 

EMPIRETECANDY

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The new camera use a stronger IR than the old one, so if not turn on the smart IR will be very strong at some point if camera install at a low place.
So that is why we get the smart IR back. Long distance watching without the smart IR will be great.
The camera in the video at 1.8m high. the smart IR is doing bit good,so when we come nearby the IR will adjust itself to make sure the face can be identified.
So when you install the IR cams, make sure there is no block or else the other place will be very dark.
View attachment Smart IR.mp4
 
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