Need Your Help to Decide between T54IR-ZE and Color4K-T and How to Install It

We have an Alaska member who deals with snow (and moose) I think he also has some 4K's working well.... @Alaska Country ?

Here are the current settings for the camera. The yellow side is for day settings with the blue for night. The corner has a street light thus the camera performs very well at night. No additional lighting is used.
 

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Yeah no comparison.

I know folks rave about the new S3 5442’s but they still don’t hold a candle to the 4K-T or X
 
I struggle with mine in the bright sun. 4k-t 2.8
It should be better with leaves on the trees. Scene will be almost 100% shade
 
Based on all this , seems like the consensus is that if you want your security camera to be discreet its probably better to go with the T54IR-ZE rather than the Colour4k-T ... is that right? Because the Colour4K-T needs more light and will shoot out a bright white LED beam out which will be noticeable to a perp...thus alerting someone there is a camera. I know a cam can be used as a deterrent but it can also be a way to try to circumvent around it to so I'd rather the camera be inconspicuous.

Also, whats the difference between the Color4K-T / T54IR-ZE and the new IPC-Color4M-T which is a 1/1.8" besides that its a fixed focal length? Would the multi core light be at all useful?
 
Not exactly.
The 4K T (the bullet version is better) can run without its LEDs on in color at night if there’s enough light. Like any camera. It just does it better as it picks up light better

The LEDs are only on if you turn them on
 
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The downside of the 1/1.2” 4K cameras is they have a narrow optimal focus range.
 
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Most of us find the blue/red light to be gimmicky.

Inside it bounces all off the walls and you think the police are showing up LOL

Outside they would only see if it looking at the camera.

In either event it can mess with the exposure and quality of the capture.

Audio is a much better deterrent than any flashing light or motion activated light.
 
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Thanks guys, this is helpful. So seems like the blue/red light doesnt add any real value to the classic upgraded T54IR-ZE S3

1) Can either the T54IR-ZE S3 or the Colour4K-T be operated via wifi with an app? Like Lorex cameras? Or is it a requirement to hard wire them? I'm wondering for ease of installation in the beginning just to get things sorted before running wires would be great to test the cam wireless to get the right focal lenght down and then install the cables/wires down. Does the T54IR-ZE S3 or Colour4K-T have two way talk capability? So you can talk to Amazon /UPS drivers letting them know you are coming to collect the package?

2) I see on EmpireTech's website there is also another camera "IPC-T5442T-ZE 1/1.8"" . What is the difference between this camera and the TR54IR-ZE? This one is also 4MP, Turret, same sensor size....so I'm really struggling to understand what makes this one different then the T54IR-ZE S3.

I swear I wish there was an easy manual or guide that Andy provided that easily explains the differences in models in a quick and understandable way, maybe using infographics or something. Really frustrating as the current model number format is really hard to discern such differences.
 
These cameras are POE. But even if they were wifi, you will still need to run power to them, so a wire is a wire at that point.

Most of us run temp cabling to figure out the best spot and then go from there.

The 54IR you linked is the older model being sold at a discount to move the last of that inventory. The S3 is the newer model and does even better at night than the previous model that was the gold standard.

These cameras do not have two/way talk. The 4K/X bullet version does, but not the turret version.
 
Awesome thanks so much for spreading your knowledge.

I'm going to buy 2 of the T5442T-ZE S3 cameras (with the black housing) off Amazon. I'm going via Amazon vs EmpireTech's website because Amazon's return policy is so smooth in case there's issues. Ive read in the past people had issues buying EmpireTech cams off Amazon and getting fakes/duds. Is there a way to visually tell the S3 version of the camera vs the older model T5442's? I would inspect it visually before I plug it in and just want to confirm what signs I need to look for to ensure I'm getting the real deal!
 
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Visually no with the appearance of the camera, but you will be able to tell by the camera GUI.

The older camera GUI will be black/grey/orange.

The newer camera GUI will be blue/white.
 
Most of us find the blue/red light to be gimmicky.

Inside it bounces all off the walls and you think the police are showing up LOL

Outside they would only see if it looking at the camera.

In either event it can mess with the exposure and quality of the capture.

Audio is a much better deterrent than any flashing light or motion activated light.

Very true about the audio. I alternate my sounds between crows and growling dogs on the 4K-X and N55DU82's. Doesn't bother the neighbors, but makes the intruders more than concerned. Once in a while I will add a gunshot sound in the mix.
 

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Very true about the audio. I alternate my sounds between crows and growling dogs on the 4K-X and N55DU82's. Doesn't bother the neighbors, but makes the intruders more than concerned. Once in a while I will add a gunshot sound in the mix.

I love it!!!
 
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Very true about the audio. I alternate my sounds between crows and growling dogs on the 4K-X and N55DU82's. Doesn't bother the neighbors, but makes the intruders more than concerned. Once in a while I will add a gunshot sound in the mix.

WOW thanks for that video clip. I would love to do that to. Can I program the T54IR-ZE S3 to make that sound when an intruder comes within my established detection zone? Hoping its something this camera can do to - not just the Colour4Ks.
 
WOW thanks for that video clip. I would love to do that to. Can I program the T54IR-ZE S3 to make that sound when an intruder comes within my established detection zone? Hoping its something this camera can do to - not just the Colour4Ks.

I believe you would have to run an external speaker with that camera. One reason I have kept my N55DU82's all these years is that they have excellent built-in speakers. Here is my postman, when he hears the camera's crow sound file.
 

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Based on all this , seems like the consensus is that if you want your security camera to be discreet its probably better to go with the T54IR-ZE rather than the Colour4k-T ... is that right? Because the Colour4K-T needs more light and will shoot out a bright white LED beam out which will be noticeable to a perp...thus alerting someone there is a camera. I know a cam can be used as a deterrent but it can also be a way to try to circumvent around it to so I'd rather the camera be inconspicuous.
Or you could do what I did. I have five of the 4KT cams deployed around my home. At the time of buying them, I had no outside lighting around my home beyond a simple porch light. I decided instead of using the onboard LED's on the 4Kt's, I would implement a complete out door lighting system. I would place one of the cams where I wanted, and then install the lighting to compliment the cams location. I did this all around the house. Most of it is all under soffit lighting with some fixtures being able to point the light in different directions. So it's very discreet as far as the installation. This worked out well because trying to locate cameras with existing lighting in place would have been full of compromises. Plus, it keeps the bugs away from the cams!

All of my lighting are LED fixtures. Plus they are all on smart dimmer switches so I can really control how much light is thrown about. I run Home assistant on an Intel NUC and all my lighting comes on and sunset and turns off at sunrise automatically using an automation in HA.
 
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what i meant, is u can have them on a schedule to turn them on and off, since they dont need to be on during the day.

and bugs, what are those?

TBH I'd consider forgetting the built in lights and mounting a low wattage LED light on the house wall instead on a dusk to dawn sensor. A bulb of maybe 6-8w will give you all the light you need for a decent picture but you can boost that with a motion sensor activated flood light if you require. The fact there's already light on and no IR filter means no delay between switching between dim and bright light.

BTW I'm finding a weakness in the 4KT again. Recently the power was turned off for the fitment of a new electricity meter and when it was switched back on again, I'd lost another camera. ATM I can't contact it, but I'm going to try a reset and the laptop to see if I can get in directly. However, this is not the 1st time I've had issues following a power outage. It seems the 4kt's really don't like having the power removed. They're a great camera in principle, and can deliver a great picture within DOF limits, but they're not as polished as I'd personally like. There seems to be a lot of drama with the 4kt's.