New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

[TechBill]

Actually I'm not sure 100% it was the .bin restore that caused this. I also thought about the Cloud data: could also be that the replacement devices are associated with old account data. But I think the .bin file restore explanation makes more sense.

I doubt it the cloud. Like you, I suspect it the bin restore too. The doorbell was intended to be sold at general customer level so it wasn't supposedly to have a "backup/restore" feature anyhow.

 

[alexdelprete]

I doubt it the cloud. Like you, I suspect it the bin restore too. The doorbell was intended to be sold at general customer level so it wasn't supposedly to have a "backup/restore" feature anyhow.

Yes, that's what I thought too. Makes more sense.

 

[Jack007]

A weird thing I wanted to bring to your attention: EZVIZ replaced my broken DB1, I initialized it and then I restored the backup configuration I made with the Batch Configuration tool some time ago.

After I rebooted it everything was back up like before. The day after I tried connecting with the Batch Config tool, but it told me the access passowrd (the verification code on the cam) was incorrect. I lost 30 minutes trying to figure out the issue, never happened to me before. Then I tried using the verification code of the replaced DB1, the old code, and it worked.

I thought that code was tied to the hw of the cam, instead I think it's in the configuration, so when I restored the old .bin file on the new cam, the verification code too was replaced with the old one.

I thought about writing this in case someone else has the same issue.

That's not entirely far fetched.
Beside my Ezviz doorbel i have a Hikvision security camera (Hikvision=Ezviz). This camera works, like the doorbell, with a verification code. The standard verification code is a 6 character string. But in configuration of the camera the standard code can be altered to a max. 12 character string. In the DB1 this configuration item is not visible/configurable but that doesn't mean it can't be altered like by uploading a configuration file from an other device.

If you think about it; when your doorbell gets stolen, the thief has your verification code and could in theory use your doorbell.

 

[gadgetry]

EZVIZ DB1 price down to $90 at Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JNWP5M2

 

[NOAMattD]

Couple things I learned today:

1) The "Restore Default Settings" option in Batch Config Tool / IVMS seems to be functionally equivalent to holding down the reset button. Just to save you a lot of popping the face plate on and off

2) Don't accidentally have an IP you've reserved for a camera blocked off in your firewall if it's not being used DHCP gave my doorbell the IP I'd reserved for my new backyard cam that I haven't put in. I was about to go nuts because I was able to connect to wifi and see the live stream but wasn't getting calls & couldn't add it to the app!

 

[Necro]

Just my 2 cents; Since your stream is not interrupted I would point to the App/Cloud, there have been times when the Cloud hiccups. Your DB notifications are sent to the Cloud then to you phone. You may want to try another App like Emiks5 suggested or wait it out. I have seen Cloud issues last a few days to almost a week, but mainly the DB ringing/calling though.

If you decide to replace your transformer:
Depending on how old your house is and what type of chime you have you more than likely have a 16v 10va which is considered builders grade. It works for some but a lot people have to replace it. Mine worked fine for a couple of months but I decided to replace it since I started streaming 24/7, I replaced it with a 16v 30va. Take a voltage reading at your Doorbell and you should be able to get a good idea if you have a 16v or 24v trans. Of course, once found, looking at the trans will tell you too

Thanks for this (and others that have replied). I know where mine is - it's on top of a junciton box in my 'floor'/basement ceiling. REALLY hard to see and it doesn't look like it's labeled (outside of the UL sticker). My chime (mechanical) also chimes very oddly with the bell attached (lower volume thunk almost vs the chime it had before) so getting a haver VA one is most likely appropriate for that if nothing else. (And for 10-15 bucks, it's low cost and easy).

 

[Teefussurf]

So I don't know if this helps since I do not have a NVR, but here are my Blue Iris settings in which I am streaming 24/7 to from the Doorbell.
The difference is my LaView Doorbell firmware has ONVIF support. I know there have been others who could not get their DB to stream to their NVRs without upgrading their DB firmware to either LaView or Nelly's (ONVIF) supported. See Doorbell 101
Can you ping the DB from your NVR?

View attachment 57686

Thanks for the reply! Unfortunately, my LTS NVR doesn't have nearly the options as the Blue Iris but will continue to experiment with settings and see if I can get it work. Not sure how to ping the camera with the LTS though... it can defitely read the model number and firmware version of the DB1, so the NVR is seeing the camera, just having trouble getting the feed to stream.

 

[Necro]

So....if my transformer is reading 18.5 v or so (checked at the transformer and because of awkward placement tested at the doorbell to confirm)...what do I get as a replacement? Only seen 16v and 24v mentioned so far.

 

[phatboyj]

So....if my transformer is reading 18.5 v or so (checked at the transformer and because of awkward placement tested at the doorbell to confirm)...what do I get as a replacement? Only seen 16v and 24v mentioned so far.

Personally,
I would go with a 24v,
because a 24v will provide power for anything up to 24 volts making it more future proof,
you never know what your future needs might be.
More importantly, is the A, or, VA, rating,
So,
seeing that you measured 18.5 volts from your trans.
you most likely have a,
16v 10a, or, va "witch is known as a standard contractors grade transformer"

So, I would look for a,
24v 30a, or, va "where "a", and, "va" mean the same thing, they both hint at the "wattage""

Where as a,
16v 30va
would work wonders,
the price difference is a negligible amount for the jump to a,
24v 30va

 

[TechBill]

Personally,
I would go with a 24v,
because a 24v will provide power for anything up to 24 volts making it more future proof,
you never know what your future needs might be.
More importantly, is the A, or, VA, rating,
So,
seeing that you measured 18.5 volts from your trans.
you most likely have a,
16v 10a, or, va "witch is known as a standard contractors grade transformer"

So, I would look for a,
24v 30a, or, va "where "a", and, "va" mean the same thing, they both hint at the "wattage""

Where as a,
16v 30va
would work wonders,
the price difference is a negligible amount for the jump to a,
24v 30va

24v normally comes at 40va rate which is meant for furnace thermostat control or to run two camera doorbell (front and rear)

A single DB1 would operate at 40va but it will also run hotter than if it was powered on 30va and it may shorten the DB1 chipset life. I could be wrong but I do know the hotter the chipset operate at can shorten its' lifespan.

I would stick with the 16V 30va or go with the 24V 20va which the triple volt doorbell 8/16/24 transformer output at when using the 24V terminal unless you are going to have two DB1 installed then go with the 24V 40va

 

[Emiks5]

So....if my transformer is reading 18.5 v or so (checked at the transformer and because of awkward placement tested at the doorbell to confirm)...what do I get as a replacement? Only seen 16v and 24v mentioned so far.

Although never tested I guess a 24 V tranformer will get the DB1 hotter than a 16 V. Because the voltage regulator has to dissipate more power.

 

[ashane926]

Couple of questions after I finally installed my RCA doorbell. My RCA doorbell is always in black and white. I tried turning off the night mode to see if that does anything but it doesn't. Is there an another setting somewhere else that I didn't see to get this working? And my camera has firmware version 180709. I saw the post saying the RCA cameras purchased end of 2019 and 2020 might get bricked if another firmware was flashed on it. Is that firmware safe to flash another firmware that has onvif so I can connect it to Blue Iris?

 

[dromero]

Thanks to @pete_c, @Emiks5 and @alexdelprete !
I've put the camera near another router and now it's working flawlessly. Also the relais closes when I press the button. Not sure if it was an incompatibility with the wifi router (had this with an rpi once) or if I had a powering problem...

One more question the relais I'm using now (Finder 22.21.8.012.4000) makes a lot of noise when not closed and gets hot. Is this normal?

Kind regards

 

[Emiks5]

Thanks to @pete_c, @Emiks5 and @alexdelprete !
I've put the camera near another router and now it's working flawlessly. Also the relais closes when I press the button. Not sure if it was an incompatibility with the wifi router (had this with an rpi once) or if I had a powering problem...

One more question the relais I'm using now (Finder 22.21.8.012.4000) makes a lot of noise when not closed and gets hot. Is this normal?

Kind regards

That is odd. It should not get power when opened. Can you show us your connection schema incl db1, transformer, chime, powerkit and relais?

 

[dromero]

That is odd. It should not get power when opened. Can you show us your connection schema incl db1, transformer, chime, powerkit and relais?

Currently I've no load/consumer on the relais as I will connect it to my home automation system (loxone) and the setup is just for testing.

 

[dromero]

Currently I've no load/consumer on the relais as I will connect it to my home automation system (loxone) and the setup is just for testing.

Just found some wirings on other posts, apparently the Powerkit should only be parallel to the relay not to the doorbell.

Now the buzzing stopped and the relay is closed when not pressed and opened for some time when pressed. Is this how it should be? I expected the relay to be closed only when pressed.

 

[Jack007]

Just found some wirings on other posts, apparently the Powerkit should only be parallel to the relay not to the doorbell.

Now the buzzing stopped and the relay is closed when not pressed and opened for some time when pressed. Is this how it should be? I expected the relay to be closed only when pressed.

It looks to me that you connected the relay-coil in parallel to the doorbell. This means it always gets powered (and closes the contact) until the doorbell shortens it.
You should connect the relay in series with the doorbell.
Look at the connection diagram on page 101. Replace the chime with the relay-coil and you should be good to go.

 

[TechBill]

Currently I've no load/consumer on the relais as I will connect it to my home automation system (loxone) and the setup is just for testing.

Just found some wirings on other posts, apparently the Powerkit should only be parallel to the relay not to the doorbell.

Now the buzzing stopped and the relay is closed when not pressed and opened for some time when pressed. Is this how it should be? I expected the relay to be closed only when pressed.

It looks to me that you connected the relay-coil in parallel to the doorbell. This means it always gets powered (and closes the contact) until the doorbell shortens it.
You should connect the relay in series with the doorbell.
Look at the connection diagram on page 101. Replace the chime with the relay-coil and you should be good to go.

Relay is a load device so you do not need that fuse inline but you will need a powerkit installed in parallel to the relay coil. I would take the fuse out. You will need to make sure that the relay is an AC type relay not a DC if your transformer output AC. I am not sure what transformer you have in the picture but it doesn't look like our average standard USA doorbell transformer which is an AC.

if the relay is activated (contact closed) then @Jack007 may be right that you have the relay connected in parallel with the transformer powering it all the time. it need to be in serial to the doorbell button and transformer. jack also mentioned to check the diagram on page 101, just replace the chime with relay in that diagram then you should be good to go.

 

[dromero]

Now I've connected it like on the diagram on 101 and while at the beginning it works after a while the led becomes red and the relay starts clicking consistently. Removing the Relay and powering it directly gives back the blue led.

The relay and the Transformer are both AC 12V and the Transformer is the same @Emiks5 uses.

 

[tofu]

Anyone have an insane memory leak using this camera with blue iris (laview version on laview firmware)?

Hardware Accel disabled or not doesn't alleviate the issue. Once this camera is disabled, my memory leak is 100% solved. I can't figure it out. Never had this problem when I first got the cam, so it must have been an update somewhere down the line.