New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

[Emiks5]

Now I've connected it like on the diagram on 101 and while at the beginning it works after a while the led becomes red and the relay starts clicking consistently. Removing the Relay and powering it directly gives back the blue led.

The relay and the Transformer are both AC 12V and the Transformer is the same @Emiks5 uses.

Mine works perfectly with a chime and powerkit connected according to the manual

 

[danli]

Now I've connected it like on the diagram on 101 and while at the beginning it works after a while the led becomes red and the relay starts clicking consistently. Removing the Relay and powering it directly gives back the blue led.

The relay and the Transformer are both AC 12V and the Transformer is the same @Emiks5 uses.

I have s similar setup. 12v AC, but a different relay brand. For me it works just fine. Have ju set the chime type to "mechanical" in the app?

 

[Bridges86406]

Interesting sounds like the last few posts are relating to the issue that i am experiencing.
I had a Nicor 18888 chime/transformer installed in my house. I removed the electronic chime and sent the 10v (12v at the camera) that transformer was sending directly to the DB1. I added the fuse and it looked eerily similar to setup that dromero posted. It would work fine, however after a couple hours the camera would stop working until I reset the breaker or unhooked the wires.

Then thinking it was a lower power situation I went out and purchased a new transformer that is 20v, however, it is having the same issue albeit it is staying up longer before it has the problem. So here is my questions:

1) If I don't have a chime do I need the powerkit?
2) I have the fuse installed right off of one of the transformer posts (inside my house) then connected to the wire that runs outside to the doorbell. Is that okay or must be it connected directly to the posts on the back of the camera?

 

[TechBill]

Interesting sounds like the last few posts are relating to the issue that i am experiencing.
I had a Nicor 18888 chime/transformer installed in my house. I removed the electronic chime and sent the 10v (12v at the camera) that transformer was sending directly to the DB1. I added the fuse and it looked eerily similar to setup that dromero posted. It would work fine, however after a couple hours the camera would stop working until I reset the breaker or unhooked the wires.

Then thinking it was a lower power situation I went out and purchased a new transformer that is 20v, however, it is having the same issue albeit it is staying up longer before it has the problem. So here is my questions:

1) If I don't have a chime do I need the powerkit?
2) I have the fuse installed right off of one of the transformer posts (inside my house) then connected to the wire that runs outside to the doorbell. Is that okay or must be it connected directly to the posts on the back of the camera?

1) No
2) Is fuse installed in series?

How many amperage output is the new transformer and how long is the wire run from your doorbell to the transformer?

 

[Bridges86406]

1) No
2) Is fuse installed in series?

How many amperage output is the new transformer and how long is the wire run from your doorbell to the transformer?

I don't know see attached picture. Is that parallel or in series?

24 VAC / 20 VA. Considering it goes up about 6 feet and then over around 15, then back down about 6. I'd say it is about 30 feet distance from transformer to DB1 over what is basically ethernet wire.

 

[David L]

Couple of questions after I finally installed my RCA doorbell. My RCA doorbell is always in black and white. I tried turning off the night mode to see if that does anything but it doesn't. Is there an another setting somewhere else that I didn't see to get this working? And my camera has firmware version 180709. I saw the post saying the RCA cameras purchased end of 2019 and 2020 might get bricked if another firmware was flashed on it. Is that firmware safe to flash another firmware that has onvif so I can connect it to Blue Iris?

Sorry for late reply, we have a sizable list of RCA DB owners who have successfully upgraded to LaView's firmware. See the list:

New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

but it shows ONVIF as not supported. Everything still works in the EZVIZ app. What am I doing wrong? The Hikvision Batch Configuration program will show that ONVIF is not supported and will error out when you try to enable it. Try the direct ONVIF streaming via VLC. IE...

ipcamtalk.com

All the recent bricked RCA DBs (Purchased End of 2019 forward) upgraded with Nelly's firmware. We tried to find if Nelly's firmware may had a newer firmware version that caused the problems but could not. Was it the newer RCA firmware too?, we do not know.

So, still at the time, we are not recommended any RCA DB firmware upgrades to any firmware other than RCA. Have you fixed your B&W issue? The firmware you have is the older firmware that those who did successfully upgrade to LaView had. If cannot fix your B&W issue and you plan on returning the DB, you may want to try to upgrade to LaView 190716 firmware to see if it works or brick it.

So I have a question, you stated you have firmware version 180709? Can you double check that, I have 180809 in our 101 from a user who shared his firmware version, thanks.

New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

Just an Idea Can you not use IFTTT to trigger the Announce, and or the Drop-in feature on your Alexa devices. I would think that this should also be possible for Alexa Speaker devices for announcing a doorbell press although using IFTTT for anything is probably going to introduce a noticeable...

ipcamtalk.com

 

[David L]

Anyone have an insane memory leak using this camera with blue iris (laview version on laview firmware)?

Hardware Accel disabled or not doesn't alleviate the issue. Once this camera is disabled, my memory leak is 100% solved. I can't figure it out. Never had this problem when I first got the cam, so it must have been an update somewhere down the line.

I have a LaView running 190716 and recording 24/7 in Blue iris. I found this:

Memory Leak: Quick Sync (Hardware Acceleration)

Some versions of the Intel Graphics Driver cause a memory leak when Hardware Acceleration is used in Blue Iris. On systems with this problem, memory usage, CPU usage, or both will climb continuously, typically reaching their limit within a few hours. To exacerbate this problem, Windows 10...

ipcamtalk.com

 

[TechBill]

I don't know see attached picture. Is that parallel or in series?

24 VAC / 20 VA. Considering it goes up about 6 feet and then over around 15, then back down about 6. I'd say it is about 30 feet distance from transformer to DB1 over what is basically ethernet wire.View attachment 58004

This is the series hook up so this is correct.

When camera is not working, does the blue led goes out? Is there a certain time interval when it goes out? Like every half hour? etc?

30 feet is a pretty long wire run but I think 2Ova should been sufficient but I wondered if it because of the fuse/resistor being so close to the transformer I don't think so however manual shows the fuse/resistor to be connected to the doorbell if I remember correctly.

 

[Bridges86406]

This is the series hook up so this is correct.

When camera is not working, does the blue led goes out? Is there a certain time interval when it goes out? Like every half hour? etc?

30 feet is a pretty long wire run but I think 2Ova should been sufficient but I wondered if it because of the fuse/resistor being so close to the transformer I don't think so however manual shows the fuse/resistor to be connected to the doorbell if I remember correctly.

I have the status lights turned off in the app. So when it no longer works it is dark no colors. However the PIR sensor does not react and when I check on the app it states connection lost.

 

[TechBill]

I have the status lights turned off in the app. So when it no longer works it is dark no colors. However the PIR sensor does not react and when I check on the app it states connection lost.

Turn it back on for troubleshooting for now ..

 

[David L]

Couple of questions after I finally installed my RCA doorbell. My RCA doorbell is always in black and white. I tried turning off the night mode to see if that does anything but it doesn't. Is there an another setting somewhere else that I didn't see to get this working? And my camera has firmware version 180709. I saw the post saying the RCA cameras purchased end of 2019 and 2020 might get bricked if another firmware was flashed on it. Is that firmware safe to flash another firmware that has onvif so I can connect it to Blue Iris?

So I went back to see what firmware version from the new RCA owners had before upgrading to Nelly's (to refresh my memory), I found one post who confirmed 190124 was his RCA firmware. This Firmware is from Jan. 2019. I would assume most of the RCA owners from last year 2019 up until the end of the year in the List of RCA Users who upgraded to LaView did so from 190124 RCA firmware. You have the older 180709 or 180809 RCA firmware (prior to 2019), you could check the LaView upgrade list to see if you catch any users who upgraded from the older version you have.

Confirmed RCA 190124 was used:

New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

Thanks David. I have tried holding the reset button for a very long time (60s+) to no avail. Also i have had the unit powered down for hours and powered it back up, with no luck. It turns on with the solid red ring. No boot up or flashing. just solid red once powered. I reached out to...

ipcamtalk.com

If you decide to upgrade to LaView 190716 (I would stay away from Nelly's firmware) and are successful, please let us know.
I would just make sure you are within your return policy dates in case you brick your DB.

Thanks,
David

 

[Emiks5]

There is a new EZviz version of the ios app 4.2.0 which only states bug fixes and enhancements. Anyone tried this? No idea what enhancements or fixes.

 

[David L]

There is a new EZviz version of the ios app 4.2.0 which only states bug fixes and enhancements. Anyone tried this? No idea what enhancements or fixes.

Android version is 4.1.1.0221 still

 

[alexdelprete]

Just found some wirings on other posts, apparently the Powerkit should only be parallel to the relay not to the doorbell.

Now the buzzing stopped and the relay is closed when not pressed and opened for some time when pressed. Is this how it should be? I expected the relay to be closed only when pressed.

The Power Kit is in parallel to the "chime" of this schema, replace the "chime" logically with a "sensor/relay/whatever" and you got it. It's pretty simple actually. This is the schema I used, it's in the 101. I also added the fuse (like you did) in series because actually there's no chime, I just use the SAGE sensor. Glad it is now working for you, you are in the optimization phase, I'm in production since a month.

 

[alexdelprete]

Relay is a load device so you do not need that fuse inline but you will need a powerkit installed in parallel to the relay coil. I would take the fuse out. You will need to make sure that the relay is an AC type relay not a DC if your transformer output AC. I am not sure what transformer you have in the picture but it doesn't look like our average standard USA doorbell transformer which is an AC.

if the relay is activated (contact closed) then @Jack007 may be right that you have the relay connected in parallel with the transformer powering it all the time. it need to be in serial to the doorbell button and transformer. jack also mentioned to check the diagram on page 101, just replace the chime with relay in that diagram then you should be good to go.

I agree on everything except the fuse: I don't have a chime, just the SAGE sensor, so I used the fuse inline. Everything's working as expected.

 

[alexdelprete]

1) No
2) Is fuse installed in series?

How many amperage output is the new transformer and how long is the wire run from your doorbell to the transformer?

Again, I don't agree on point 1: for me, withouth a chime installed, just the SAGE sensor, it didn't work without the power kit installed. I don't know what's inside the power kit, but it seems it is stabilizing the power/current. The SAGE in my case didn't work reliably without it. I configured the doorbell with "electronic chime".

 

[alexdelprete]

Now I've connected it like on the diagram on 101 and while at the beginning it works after a while the led becomes red and the relay starts clicking consistently. Removing the Relay and powering it directly gives back the blue led.

The relay and the Transformer are both AC 12V and the Transformer is the same @Emiks5 uses.

Check the connections, initially I was inverting some wires.

I'm using this transformer: 12-24V AC, 40VA, for continuous service (made in Italy).
Vemer VN320800 Trasformatore TMC 40/24 da Barra DIN per Servizio Continuo 230V/12-24V, Grigio Chiaro: Amazon.it: Fai da te

 

[alexdelprete]

Interesting sounds like the last few posts are relating to the issue that i am experiencing.
I had a Nicor 18888 chime/transformer installed in my house. I removed the electronic chime and sent the 10v (12v at the camera) that transformer was sending directly to the DB1. I added the fuse and it looked eerily similar to setup that dromero posted. It would work fine, however after a couple hours the camera would stop working until I reset the breaker or unhooked the wires.

Then thinking it was a lower power situation I went out and purchased a new transformer that is 20v, however, it is having the same issue albeit it is staying up longer before it has the problem. So here is my questions:

1) If I don't have a chime do I need the powerkit?
2) I have the fuse installed right off of one of the transformer posts (inside my house) then connected to the wire that runs outside to the doorbell. Is that okay or must be it connected directly to the posts on the back of the camera?

1. Yes. I have no chime, but I installed a zigbee sensor (SAGE) to detect the button press, and without the Powerkit it didn't work correctly.
2. I have installed the fuse directly on the positive line of the transformer, from the fuse then I go to the doorbell (DB1), so the answer is: yes, it's ok.

 

[dromero]

I have s similar setup. 12v AC, but a different relay brand. For me it works just fine. Have ju set the chime type to "mechanical" in the app?

What relay do you have? I can't get it to work with the 8V AC Finder relay and neither with the 12V AC Finder relay :-(

Tried with Mechanical and Digital in the app. Could the powerkit be dead?

 

[David L]

What relay do you have? I can't get it to work with the 8V AC Finder relay and neither with the 12V AC Finder relay :-(

Tried with Mechanical and Digital in the app. Could the powerkit be dead?

Don't mean to chime in on ya'lls conversation but I have a small list in the Doorbell 101 that you can look at:

OTHER HARDWARE TO CONSIDER:
⦁ FRENCK (USA) Relay (Works with Home Assistant)
⦁ Xiaomi Aqara Door Window Sensor Zigbee Wireless Connection (Works with Home Assistant) - Olddawg
⦁ Finder (EUR) Relay, 344Mhz Transmitter - KlaverBoer, KlaverBoer / Finder (EUR) Relay, 344Mhz Transmitter - Jack007
⦁ uxcell (BC) Ice Cube Relay - Ford
⦁ Doorbell Monernizer (EUR) - Fietspomp
⦁ Sage Sensor - TechBill - alexdelprete