New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

Deadeye said:
So, I ended up purchasing the LaView rebrand of this doorbell (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LFP9C9C) and I'm quite disappointed. I couldn't even set it up. The physical setup was incredibly easy, but when I went through the setup with the app, it just wouldn't complete. When I used the android app, it said that the device wifi password was incorrect (even though I was able to connect to the device's wifi network through my phone's settings just fine), and when I tried the iOS app out of curiosity, it sounded like it was going to complete the setup, but it kept saying that the wifi (assuming my home network) password was incorrect (it was not, I checked it over and over again, and tried to reconnect my phone with the same password with no issues). I've spent so much time just trying to get this setup, that I think I'm just going to return it as defective (perhaps it is and the wifi module/code is having issues). I might try moving the router closer to the doorbell to see if maybe it's just reporting the wrong error (I tried using the app signal tester, but it was completely in Chinese.........this app is garbage).
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It is not uncommon for devices like these to not be compatible with wifi passwords with non-standard characters in them (even spaces). Try it again with your wifi set to a (temporary) password that has only numbers and letters to rule this out.

I use the RCA or HiVision app and they both work very reliably.
 
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what Ford said... I have identical experience and it is worth a try. I myself am using some very special characters but did not seem to bother my RCA app and am now using the guardian app.
 
Where do I find the device verification code on the Laview? All I have is a QR sticker... I tried scanning it and using what it came up with but no luck.
 
Ford said:
It is not uncommon for devices like these to not be compatible with wifi passwords with non-standard characters in them (even spaces). Try it again with your wifi set to a (temporary) password that has only numbers and letters to rule this out.

I use the RCA or HiVision app and they both work very reliably.
Click to expand...

I’ve also seen it where trailing spaces (or spaces anywhere) in a SSID can cause issues. The trailing space thing can really cause you to pull out some hair because it’s hard to see.
 
I previously wrote about my troubles with a mechanical chime with LEDs (I know that LEDs aren't necessary, but my wife really likes the chimes with the LEDs that I bought when my previous 30 year-old chimes fused and I would like to get them to work) wired to my RCA DB2. I upped my transformer to 24V 40VA and the doorbell and the chimes work (albeit the chimes only DING once and are wired to the front door circuit. They are rated for a 16V transformer even with the LEDs) but the LEDs on the chimes flash all the time, so I had to completely dial down the LEDs until I could get a new power kit and even bought an isolation relay if it still didn't work properly with that.

Long story short: can anyone give me instructions on how to properly wire an isolation relay to see if that fixes the problem? I would appreciate it. I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0788M6BNJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which is a 2-channel relay (much bigger than I though it would be).

I tried a search for "isolation relay" but without the capability to search a single thread, I can't find anything ..
 
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Gibby13 said:
Where do I find the device verification code on the Laview? All I have is a QR sticker... I tried scanning it and using what it came up with but no luck.
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It is on the back of the device (just below where the wires connect).
 
Is there a Wifi chime that will work with these? Or anyone figure out how to get Alexa to announce doorbell presses?
 
Skinsfan said:
I previously wrote about my troubles with a mechanical chime with LEDs (I know that LEDs aren't necessary, but my wife really likes the chimes with the LEDs that I bought when my previous 30 year-old chimes fused and I would like to get them to work) wired to my RCA DB2. I upped my transformer to 24V 40VA and the doorbell and the chimes work (albeit the chimes only DING once and are wired to the front door circuit. They are rated for a 16V transformer even with the LEDs) but the LEDs on the chimes flash all the time, so I had to completely dial down the LEDs until I could get a new power kit and even bought an isolation relay if it still didn't work properly with that.

Long story short: can anyone give me instructions on how to properly wire an isolation relay to see if that fixes the problem? I would appreciate it. I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0788M6BNJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which is a 2-channel relay (much bigger than I though it would be).

I tried a search for "isolation relay" but without the capability to search a single thread, I can't find anything ..
Click to expand...

Your chime is chattering since it is series with your doorbell that is passing current. A normal doorbell push button switch is an open circuit (no current) until you push the button then a dead short when pushed.
A larger VA will not effect the chatter. Did you try to put a resistor in parallel with the chime to shunt some current?


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TimTech said:
Your chime is chattering since it is series with your doorbell that is passing current. A normal doorbell push button switch is an open circuit (no current) until you push the button then a dead short when pushed.
A larger VA will not effect the chatter. Did you try to put a resistor in parallel with the chime to shunt some current?


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I did previously try the resistor and it didn't help, but maybe I didn't wire it properly. I'm willing to try again, but I just don't understand why everything I've tried still results in trouble. The new (working PK .. the previous power kit failed for some reason) power kit doesn't seem to help either. I don't think the LEDs would require that much extra current but they have done nothing but flashed regardless of a 16V 30VA or a 24V 30VA transformer which is (should be) more than enough for the chimes and plenty for the doorbell. Just boggling my mind that this cannot work together.
 
Skinsfan said:
I don't think the LEDs would require that much extra current but they have done nothing but flashed regardless of a 16V 30VA or a 24V 30VA transformer which is (should be) more than enough for the chimes and plenty for the doorbell. Just boggling my mind that this cannot work together.
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The LEDs require VERY little current to light up. That’s the problem. The current running thru the circuit due to the doorbell consumption (as opposed to an open doorbell switch =zero current) is enough to light an LED.



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I just picked the RCA model up from staples. I like it a lot considering I’ve never even tried a video doorbell before. My favorite feature is the audible alert when motion is detected. Even though I set it on the middle sensitivity, it still picks up cars when they drive by ~30ft.

Is there a way to set it on 24/7 recording or is motion the only option (I read the thread a while ago but don’t recall seeing it mentioned).
 
I could use some troubleshooting help. I have the LAView version, android app and a mechanical doorbell that uses a 24v transformer. Everything works well except the mechanical doorbell no longer rings when the doorbell button is pressed.
I have read and re-read the instructions a number of times and verified that I have the power adapter connected properly to the mechanical doorbell chime. If I temporarily unplug the power kit the doorbell chime does a slight hum so I'm guessing that by reconnecting the power kit silencing the hum must mean it's wired correctly. I also verified that the mechanical chime is selected in the app. I didn't use the fuse wire, as instructions indicated I didn't need it. I do notice the back of the LAView gets pretty darn hot though. Any ideas or suggestions??
 
Netwalker said:
I’ve also seen it where trailing spaces (or spaces anywhere) in a SSID can cause issues. The trailing space thing can really cause you to pull out some hair because it’s hard to see.
Click to expand...

It's not the wifi or the password. I tried setting up an old wireless router I found with "testwifi" and "wifipassword" as the SSID and password and it still failed in the same way. I am REALLY hoping that it's a hardware/sticker/code issue as I've already paid to send this one back and get a replacement shipped back (eventually). If it still doesn't work I don't know what I'm going to do.
 
marklyn said:
I could use some troubleshooting help. I have the LAView version, android app and a mechanical doorbell that uses a 24v transformer. Everything works well except the mechanical doorbell no longer rings when the doorbell button is pressed.
I have read and re-read the instructions a number of times and verified that I have the power adapter connected properly to the mechanical doorbell chime. If I temporarily unplug the power kit the doorbell chime does a slight hum so I'm guessing that by reconnecting the power kit silencing the hum must mean it's wired correctly. I also verified that the mechanical chime is selected in the app. I didn't use the fuse wire, as instructions indicated I didn't need it. I do notice the back of the LAView gets pretty darn hot though. Any ideas or suggestions??
Click to expand...
I figured out what my problem was... an old (circa 1975) transformer that was only putting out 10v. Replaced with new transformer (16v leads used) and it works perfectly!
 
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Is anyone using the EZVIZ IFTTT channel? I'm using it in conjunction with the HomeSeer channel. It is slow to respond at best, and takes many minutes at worst. Is this what to expect with IFTTT, or are one of the other two parties to blame for the slowness?
 
Fourier said:
I just picked the RCA model up from staples. I like it a lot considering I’ve never even tried a video doorbell before. My favorite feature is the audible alert when motion is detected. Even though I set it on the middle sensitivity, it still picks up cars when they drive by ~30ft.

Is there a way to set it on 24/7 recording or is motion the only option (I read the thread a while ago but don’t recall seeing it mentioned).
Click to expand...

I too have the car trigger problem. Does anyone know of a solution?

I don't think you would want the device itself recording 24/7. I don't think it can but I'm not sure. You could record the stream 24/7 with a PC app like iSpy (that's what I use) or Blue Iris if you wanted to.
 
I am streaming it 24/7 to my NAS and also got Home Assistant to pick up the stream. I am now using it also with facial recognition... All of this without any cloud interaction.
 
Has anyone noticed problems losing video on this doorbell when your device switches between the 5G and 2.4G networks? The signal is rather weak for me with 5G, so I will likely setup a new SSID for these that only uses 2.4 so I can pin it there.

Also, it sounds like there is no web interface for this version of the doorbell. Is there any way to remove the time stamp on the video since it is redundant with my BI time stamp?
 
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