New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

Remove the power pack, Doorbell and connect the wires like they were before the doorbell. Short the two wires to the doorbell button. Does the doorbell chime ring?

Before mounting the doorbell outside I connected a spare AC transformer directly to the two terminals on the doorbell. Configure the doorbell on your workbench with the spare power supply. Make sure the app is set to mechanical chime.

Then re install the power pack and doorbell outside. Have someone push the doorbell button outside.
If you only hear a buzz when the doorbell button is pressed then more than likely need more amperage. Taking the cover off the chime and looking at the plate between the two chimes you will see the model number and voltage which should match the current transformer. Mine chime and transformer were marked 12VAC.

There is a post above relating to what you should see in the power pack.

I am assuming you are replying to me -
I don't recall having any issues with the mechanical chime prior to installing the ezviz. The ezviz powers on, I got a reading of 20v across the back of the 16v/30 transformer I recently purchased from HD. If I remove the power kit from the circuit, I got a reading of 4.8V at the ends of the DB and transformer wires, when i connect the wires to the mechanical chime without the power kit I will hear a humming sound; when I did the same but with my old transformer the mechanical chime would lightly ring every 5-10 seconds on its own without me tapping the doorbell button in addition to humming.

Old transformer spec: 16vac-10VA
new transformer spec: 16vac-30VA

I'm starting to believe what @David L said that its most likely an ezviz server issue. I wish I had more reasons to investigate more, but my wife would kill me if i purchased any more tools to test things out, thanks for the suggestion tho @pete_c

home depot:
 
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It has to be a server issue causing the mechanical chime to not work or maybe the new transformer still isn't large enough? I ended up disconnecting the ezviz db1 and shorted its connection with everything else connected and my mechnical doorbell rang each time i touched the prongs that normally would've been connected to the db1.

Hi I am having trouble with getting my mechanical chime to work. I checked the first post on this thread and upgraded the transformer to the 16v/30a from home depot. After connecting I read 20v from back of transformer, 0.8v when everything is connected measuring at the chime's front and trans slots, I got ~4.8v between the doorbell wire and the transformer wire that connects to the power kit.

Maybe I need to recheck the doorbell wire connection to the doorbell and also the connections on the powerkit? Does it matter if the doorbell is not on the compatibility list, I figure as long as you get the transformer good then that should be that, it is a standard doorbell that the developer put in this cookie cutter house.
I have the ezviz db1. The doorbell worked before i installed the ezviz. I am using the latest ezviz app and I readded the doorbell and selected mechanical chime after upgrading the transformer.

Before I upgraded the transformer, the mech. chime sporatically worked with the ezviz, but it seemed like it was temperature dependant - like 60s-70F. I could be guessing/totally not relevant. I looked up my old chime and it might've been rated for 12v.

If I leave the power kit out of the circuit, then I hear humming. When I had the old transformer, i would hear a hum and the doorbell would actually ding every few seconds, but very lightly not at its full sound.
 
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I just took mine off, can confirm they are Torx T6 screws (not T6S)
Adding this to our 101...

Thanks for all your help...
 
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@H0va4life

So what is the result of your testing? Are you continuing to utilize the EZLife doorbell app?
 
@H0va4life

So what is the result of your testing? Are you continuing to utilize the EZLife doorbell app?

Still no luck, I was able to connect an unused alexa echo dot that I had laying around my house so that got me thru halloween. I've tried a new tri-volt transformer and no luck at any of the voltages. So I am now awaiting on new mechanical chimes to be delivered - one that you had mentioned and another that was on the compatibility list.

I really don't want to use the alexa as you can tell...
 
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Let us know how it goes.

Here doing side mounted switches for automation and text to speech.

Elk Doorbell sensor, Elk debounce board and a current sensor on the AC transformer line.

This stuff takes care of the automation running including Alexa.

Recently enabled a Ring alarm / Ring doorbell in house two. Whenever some one rings doorbell in house one or house two then my Alexa devices state doorbell is ringing but only get video from the Ring doorbell.

Have you considered changing the Android app. I had a similar issue where the mechanical setting did not work after the doorbell bounced. I installed the Hikvision Doorbell app and configured the doorbell to use the mechanical chime. All is well now. That and now proxying the video from the Doorbell as I am thinking I was taxing it with multiple links.
 
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Let us know how it goes.

Here doing side mounted switches for automation and text to speech.

Elk Doorbell sensor, Elk debounce board and a current sensor on the AC transformer line.

This stuff takes care of the automation running including Alexa.

Recently enabled a Ring alarm / Ring doorbell in house two. Whenever some one rings doorbell in house one or house two then my Alexa devices state doorbell is ringing but only get video from the Ring doorbell.

Have you considered changing the Android app. I had a similar issue where the mechanical setting did not work after the doorbell bounced. I installed the Hikvision Doorbell app and configured the doorbell to use the mechanical chime. All is well now. That and now proxying the video from the Doorbell as I am thinking I was taxing it with multiple links.

Thank you for the recommendation. If I use the hik vision do I need to flash my doorbell fw to be hikvision as well? I got an error after I removed the db from my ezviz account, and uploaded the QR code in the HiLook app - I only tried guest mode.

I have a bulk order of sage doorbell sensors coming in - I am unsure why I purchased so many but I got it for cheap.
 
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Thank you for the recommendation. If I use the hik vision do I need to flash my doorbell fw to be hikvision as well? I got an error after I removed the db from my ezviz account, and uploaded the QR code in the HiLook app - I only tried guest mode.

I have a bulk order of sage doorbell sensors coming in - I am unsure why I purchased so many but I got it for cheap.
No, you don't have to use Hik's firmware if you use their App.

Several people here use the Sage Sensors.
 
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No, you don't have to use Hik's firmware if you use their App.

Several people here use the Sage Sensors.

Unfortunately still no luck after setting up in the HK app - I did some digging in the product manual of HK's recent doorbell to get the app for android. The latest firmware must've done something to it.
 
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dont know if this was posted or not but I was just looking at hikvision site and it seems like hikvision will no longer be making any new firmwares for the ds-hd1 as from what I can see on the hikvision site they have discontinued it. so most likely EZviz will follow and so will the rest of the brands.


You are viewing a discontinued product. Latest firmware updates can not be guaranteed.

LATEST FIRMWARE: Firmware: YS_DS-HD1_EN_NEU_5.2.4_211101
 
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dont know if this was posted or not but I was just looking at hikvision site and it seems like hikvision will no longer be making any new firmwares for the ds-hd1 as from what I can see on the hikvision site they have discontinued it. so most likely EZviz will follow and so will the rest of the brands.


You are viewing a discontinued product. Latest firmware updates can not be guaranteed.

LATEST FIRMWARE: Firmware: YS_DS-HD1_EN_NEU_5.2.4_211101
Figured this was coming with the newer models out. All the other variant brands, RCA, LaView, etc. stopped their firmwares awhile back...
 
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Figured this was coming with the newer models out. All the other variant brands, RCA, LaView, etc. stopped their firmwares awhile back...

Probably why EZVIZ is going slow as a snail to support me with my mechanical chime not working - its been about a month since I've opened a case with them.

I just got a bunch of sage sensors - anyway I can tell from that if the ezviz is sending any signal at all to the chime?
 
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Let us know how it goes.

Here doing side mounted switches for automation and text to speech.

Elk Doorbell sensor, Elk debounce board and a current sensor on the AC transformer line.

This stuff takes care of the automation running including Alexa.

Recently enabled a Ring alarm / Ring doorbell in house two. Whenever some one rings doorbell in house one or house two then my Alexa devices state doorbell is ringing but only get video from the Ring doorbell.

Have you considered changing the Android app. I had a similar issue where the mechanical setting did not work after the doorbell bounced. I installed the Hikvision Doorbell app and configured the doorbell to use the mechanical chime. All is well now. That and now proxying the video from the Doorbell as I am thinking I was taxing it with multiple links.

Unfortunately the mechanical chime is still not activating. If you don't mind me asking, what firmware and version are you using, is it possible for me to downgrade to that?

I've tried the following thus far and no luck:
  1. Chime works when I remove the doorbell out of the circuit and touch the wires together.
  2. Adding/removing/resetting multiple times on EZVIZ app and physically reseting via the button outside
  3. Tried using the HK app
  4. Tried multiple transformers including a tri-volt
  5. Tried the cmh1 and a nutone doorbell off of their compatibility list
 
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Here still using the originally posted Hikvision firmware.
db-firmware.jpg

Which only works with this Batch Configuration Program.

batchconfiguration.jpg


I used to get random reboots / resets when using the API for the ONVIF PIR motion stuff and tapping in to the video directly with a few devices.

I quit using the built in PIR totally and the Android Hikvision APP and or Nelly APP. I did lose the mechanical chime button once a while ago and reset it with the Hikvision APP using the above firmware. I can also now reconfigure the DB to my liking when it goes to the AP mode with the Hikvision Batch Configuration.

That said I am using Windows 2016 server running on a Levova Tiny M93A with Gb NIC and WLAN card. So I access the server via RDP only and mostly use Linux here.

So totally managing the DB with my Home Assistant server. Proxying the video with the Home Assistant server. I was using the API to get access to the ONVIF motion detection which worked but I could never tweak it just right. I went to an external wireless PIR which works great and as well as my Optex wired outdoor motion sensor.

That said the mechanical chime is still working. The android app (whichever one) is not utilized. The DB button is also connected to my alarm panel (wired) and with that drives events to the automation server such that i can speak WAV and TTS via Microsoft SAPI and to the Alexa Devices via Alexa Media player.

I have not had any reboot or reset issues in months now. The mechanical chime is still working. I am not connected to the cloud. I have only done this once to reconfigure the chime that I do not really need any more anyhow. As mentioned earlier I did update the chime and transformer when first installed.

I bought this device such that I had no dependencies on the cloud. I am not impressed with the design. I have a Ring doorbell and Ring alarm configured via API in house two and it works perfectly even though I am dependant on the cloud. I do not use the ring app on my phone as it is just an adverstisement for Ring which sucks. Ring support is an overseas call center which really doesn't have a clue. Same with myQ. MyQ will not publish their API and doesn't truely connect to Ring...so probably going to remove it and do my Tasmota combo GDO (button, two sensors and temperature) which works way better and isn't in the cloud.

Recommendations are to use the originally posted firmware, disable / disconnect your app / db from the cloud. Reset it it with the Hikvision doorbell and connect to the Hikvision / nelly cloud once only then disable it on your android phone and use the api for management and control of your DB.
 
Adding/removing/resetting multiple times on EZVIZ app

Before removing the EZViz app disconnect the DB from their cloud. I do not know how to do this as I have only done it with the Hikvision / Nelly doorbell app.

  1. Tried multiple transformers including a tri-volt
  2. Tried the cmh1 and a nutone doorbell off of their compatibility list
I only changed my transformer and chime cuz my transformer / chime was old and 12VaA and had issues getting the mechanical chime to work when I first installed the DB. I went from the Ring here to the Hikvision DB. The Ring worked fine. It is also working fine now in house number two.
 
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Here still using the originally posted Hikvision firmware.
View attachment 145603

Which only works with this Batch Configuration Program.

View attachment 145604


I used to get random reboots / resets when using the API for the ONVIF PIR motion stuff and tapping in to the video directly with a few devices.

I quit using the built in PIR totally and the Android Hikvision APP and or Nelly APP. I did lose the mechanical chime button once a while ago and reset it with the Hikvision APP using the above firmware. I can also now reconfigure the DB to my liking when it goes to the AP mode with the Hikvision Batch Configuration.

That said I am using Windows 2016 server running on a Levova Tiny M93A with Gb NIC and WLAN card. So I access the server via RDP only and mostly use Linux here.

So totally managing the DB with my Home Assistant server. Proxying the video with the Home Assistant server. I was using the API to get access to the ONVIF motion detection which worked but I could never tweak it just right. I went to an external wireless PIR which works great and as well as my Optex wired outdoor motion sensor.

That said the mechanical chime is still working. The android app (whichever one) is not utilized. The DB button is also connected to my alarm panel (wired) and with that drives events to the automation server such that i can speak WAV and TTS via Microsoft SAPI and to the Alexa Devices via Alexa Media player.

I have not had any reboot or reset issues in months now. The mechanical chime is still working. I am not connected to the cloud. I have only done this once to reconfigure the chime that I do not really need any more anyhow. As mentioned earlier I did update the chime and transformer when first installed.

I bought this device such that I had no dependencies on the cloud. I am not impressed with the design. I have a Ring doorbell and Ring alarm configured via API in house two and it works perfectly even though I am dependant on the cloud. I do not use the ring app on my phone as it is just an adverstisement for Ring which sucks. Ring support is an overseas call center which really doesn't have a clue. Same with myQ. MyQ will not publish their API and doesn't truely connect to Ring...so probably going to remove it and do my Tasmota combo GDO (button, two sensors and temperature) which works way better and isn't in the cloud.

Recommendations are to use the originally posted firmware, disable / disconnect your app / db from the cloud. Reset it it with the Hikvision doorbell and connect to the Hikvision / nelly cloud once only then disable it on your android phone and use the api for management and control of your DB.

Thank you! I am just getting started with leaning from the cloud - google notification about low storage has been annoying me. I recently purchased a dell optiplex from an office liquidator. I'll probably have home assistant on it in addition to it serving as an archive for photos/emails etc.. Also I plan to install some cameras and have those running too.
 
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I purchased the Lenova M93A's (16Gb) and Lenova M900's (32Gb). less than $100 each. They make good Windows / Ubuntu servers.

One Lenova Ubuntu server is running Zoneminder, another one is running Logitech media server and MythTV connected to two HD Homerun boxes (still using it). Plexserver was also running on it for a while. And another run running Blue Iris on Windows 2016.

Another couple are running Windows server 2016 for RDP. (window management programs that do not run in Linux).

Another one is running old Homeseer for controlling two Way2call boxes in a W2003 virtual box.

Newest M900 is running Home Assistant in a virtual box, W7 embedded for Microsoft SAPI fonts (have a bunch here) and Homeseer 4 in Ubuntu.

I am not a server hugger here but using a mixture of VM's and stand alone servers. Tiny footprint on the Lenova Tiny's. Low power and they all come with Gb NIC and WLAN /Bluetooth cards.
 
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To start learning Home Assistant you can run it on an RPI. I just do not trust much running on an SD card. I am running one Home Assistant box on a Pine64 with 1-2 Gb of RAM. I have also run it on an el cheapo chinese $50 TV box replacing Android with Armbian Linux and running it from the eMMC. I do like Intel better than Arm and do like Linux / BSD / Windows better than Android. Windows now is looking like Android these days. The Armbian folks have done wonders with these cheapo boxes. Almost as good as the Debian builds for the RPi. That is me.

Once you have played a while you can export your Home Assistant configuration to an Intel based computer.

I did automate with software running on Windows in the 1990's using Homeseer at the time and mostly to X10 stuff. Still using X10 today and now UPB, Zigbee, ZWave, Insteon (for a bit) and WLAN (Tasmota).

That is me.
 
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I purchased the Lenova M93A's (16Gb) and Lenova M900's (32Gb). less than $100 each. They make good Windows / Ubuntu servers.

One Lenova Ubuntu server is running Zoneminder, another one is running Logitech media server and MythTV connected to two HD Homerun boxes (still using it). Plexserver was also running on it for a while. And another run running Blue Iris on Windows 2016/

Another couple are running Windows server 2016 for RDP.

Another one is running old Homeseer for controlling two Way2call boxes in a W2003 virtual box.

Newest M900 is running Home Assistant in a virtual box, W7 embedded for Microsoft SAPI fonts (have a bunch here) and Homeseer 4 in Ubuntu.

I am not a server hugger here but using a mixture of VM's and stand alone servers. Tiny footprint on the Lenova Tiny's. Low power and they all come with Gb NIC and WLAN /Bluetooth cards.

Nice yeah I got mine for $106 shipped, 7th gen i5 16gb ram and 500gb ssd - I had a 512 m2 drive laying around that I use as the primary drive on it. I also have a few HDDs laying around. I havent determined if I should just get rid of windows and do completely linux based system or not. I am not familiar with networking/linux so I am hesitant to switch.

I chose a powerful desktop because I wanted to make sure I had processing power to run AI processing on my security cameras.
 
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