New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

I have a EZVIZ unit that I was able to flash Hikvsion FW 211101 onto (it previously had 23404). However after I reset settings and connected to the softap network, I am unable to Add the device in Batch Configuration 3.0.2.6- nothing happens and the below error is set in the log.
Turns out it was a IP issue. The DHCP address from the camera's softap was in conflict. I changed my computer to:
Address: 192.168.8.2
Mask: 255.255.255.255
Gateway: 192.168.8.1

And was able to add the camera and configure it!
 
  • Like
Reactions: David L
I was not sure where to post this with the EZVIZ DB1 (and variants) winding down (end of life) and Reolink gaining momentum .
I had an overheating issue that was concerning.

My EZVIZ DB1 just failed after a few good years :(. The PIR sensor had cracked likely due to UV, but it also appeared that it had been helped by a push. I had noticed for a few weeks that after rain there would be the odd false doorbell ring. I had thought it was a connection problem.

Last week after a heavy rainfall, I came down stairs and their was a burnt plastic smell. I walked around the house and heard a buzzing. I thought it was the thermostat at first and then realized it was the door bell chime. It was very hot and had obvious discoloration and heat deformation. That took a lot of heat!. The transformer was fine and was happily providing a continuous supply to the red hot buzzing chime coil. I took apart the DB1 and could see tracking on the circuit board and the effects of moisture that was effectively providing a continuous button push. I had increased the size of the transformer and this did solve a problem allowing the DB1 to operate properly , now I see it created another problem. The DB1 comes with an F3 fuse, and in future I will fuse the secondaries of a doorbell transformer, especially if a larger size than OEM. The current creates the heat and the larger transformers can supply significantly more continuously. The wire, the chime coil and the doorbell could be separately fused if necessary to a level just above the minimum required. I am still investigating how to safely protect this low voltage circuit and I am not making a recommendation on fuse size.

I searched for a replacement doorbell. Sadly the DB2C is not ONVIF and that is a show stopper. Tonight I ordered the WiFi Reolink doorbell. I wish it could natively support the mechanical chimes, but I have read several good suggestions (433MHz receiver, ONVIF button trigger etc.). I also read that the ONVIF firmware originally did not support two way audio, but does now.

Reasons for using existing wires and chime?
  • really,really challenging to get Cat6 POE wire to this location.
  • 2 side doors are on mechanical chime, so it will remain
  • when I move I will take customized smart home devices and reinstall existing push button
  • I like the sound of the mechanical chime (Ding-dong front door, Ding back doors)

Thanks for all the work on the Hikvision DS-HD1 (RCA (hsdb2a), EzViz (DB1), LaView, Nelly's etc.) It was fun to tinker with it. It ticked nearly all the boxes and I wish the replacement had been an upgrade.

Looking forward to the growing Reolink doorbell support base and linking it to my NAS and Hubitat.
 
  • Sad
Reactions: David L
Sad to hear about your DB1 but that PIR lens has been a problem for several here.

Here is an old recording of someone at my door pushing the PIR you can hear the crushing sound of the plastic lens.
Mine did survive all the abuse in the 3 years I had it though...I just got lucky...


View attachment Pushed_Doorbell_PIR.mp4
 
Also here is the Reolink Doorbell Thread:


I think you will be surprised with the Chime the Reolink comes with, having the ability to move it is nice and I think you will find the Chime Ding Dong ok. We had our Chime by the back door so we could hear it out back. Will be doing the same at our new house...
 
I had swapped the buttons around so it's all black, seems less confusing that way vs constrasting button which would have done the opposite and so far so good.

20210201_035314.jpg

If you have a light fixture nearby, you could splice into it to a separate jonction box where you can plug a powerline adapter into it :)

Taking things further, apparently powerline works over DC and even low voltage AC, after some modifications

Which means it's perfectly possible to have a powerline doorbell lol
 
I had swapped the buttons around so it's all black, seems less confusing that way vs constrasting button which would have done the opposite and so far so good.

View attachment 172369

If you have a light fixture nearby, you could splice into it to a separate jonction box where you can plug a powerline adapter into it :)

Taking things further, apparently powerline works over DC and even low voltage AC, after some modifications

Which means it's perfectly possible to have a powerline doorbell lol
The DS-HD1 Cover helped with the PIR issue, had someone send me one.

1694746944871.png
 
Also here is the Reolink Doorbell Thread:


I think you will be surprised with the Chime the Reolink comes with, having the ability to move it is nice and I think you will find the Chime Ding Dong ok. We had our Chime by the back door so we could hear it out back. Will be doing the same at our new house...

Considering the Reolink WiFi but I’m already connected to 2 mechanical door chimes. Ubell(Hikvision DS-KB6403) has been working flawlessly for over 5 years and 2 homes with full time record to NVR. Only issue I have is some nighttime glare and not sure if it is inside lens cover? Also wondering if 5ghz will improve performance? Undecided if I should just wait until this unit dies?
 

Attachments

  • Doorbell.png
    Doorbell.png
    1.6 MB · Views: 10
  • Night.png
    Night.png
    868.1 KB · Views: 10
  • Like
Reactions: David L
Considering the Reolink WiFi but I’m already connected to 2 mechanical door chimes. Ubell(Hikvision DS-KB6403) has been working flawlessly for over 5 years and 2 homes with full time record to NVR. Only issue I have is some nighttime glare and not sure if it is inside lens cover? Also wondering if 5ghz will improve performance? Undecided if I should just wait until this unit dies?
Understood. You may be able to fix your glare by angling the DB some, maybe down more.

Had the Reolink not become available I would still have my Hik DB. My LaView DB was great for the 3+ years I had it running, actually it is still running, left it on our old house and brought the Reolink to our new house. Mainly the Reolink POE is what drew me that direction, but I ended up buying both and tested both, I was pleased with my results.

I use the 2.4 band even on the Reolink as I did with the LaView DB, I found it to perform better, that is no signal drops.

As far as Chimes, this is I would say a top question/concern with the Reolink since it does not connect to an existing Chime (Though there are ways to trigger your existing chimes with relays and a home automation system like Home Assistant) but what most found, the Chime that comes with the Reolink has worked for most concerned. Plus we found a way to add more 3rd party Chimes since they use RF 433MHz



Use your Existing Chime with the Reolink DB
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bob NWI
  • Like
Reactions: Skinsfan
IMO using PoE for a doorbell is just plain stupid

I agree POE is not a great when you are replacing an existing doorbell. But running a network cable to the doorbell location is becoming more and more prevalent in new construction. Eventually it will become the "standard" and using a old doorbell with a transformer will be the "odd ball" thing to do. Right now we just find ourselves in this transition phase.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Willow and David L
I agree POE is not a great when you are replacing an existing doorbell. But running a network cable to the doorbell location is becoming more and more prevalent in new construction. Eventually it will become the "standard" and using a old doorbell with a transformer will be the "odd ball" thing to do. Right now we just find ourselves in this transition phase.
True, I have already seen new construction homes this way.
 
Using WiFi for a security Camera is even more stupid...
Agreed but this is just a doorbell, all my cameras are PoE, like I said, they could have made it working with mechanical chimes and even implemented something that could work using existing wiring, but they decided to just make a small form factor PoE camera and slap a button on it lol

I had no idea people ran ethernet cable to doorbells, are there other manufacturer doing the same as Reolink???
 
  • Like
Reactions: David L
Agreed but this is just a doorbell, all my cameras are PoE, like I said, they could have made it working with mechanical chimes and even implemented something that could work using existing wiring, but they decided to just make a small form factor PoE camera and slap a button on it lol

I had no idea people ran ethernet cable to doorbells, are there other manufacturer doing the same as Reolink???
When I first was pulled into the Smart Doorbell craze a few years ago, it sounded like a good idea at the time. What I found over time is less people even ring the doorbell these days, well mainly delivery drivers don't, they just want to drop your package and run. Then the 2-way talk, to be able to use your DB like an old audio intercom system. My grandfather had his intercom in every room, rarely saw him use it, but I am sure it sounded good at the time he installed it when his house was being built. Unfortunately without a good Doorbell Station, these DBs do not cut it for good 2-way audio.

Point is, I agree. The Reolink DB is unique in several ways compared to it's competitors. Both the WiFi and POE versions allow you to get power from an existing Doorbell transformer. Both have an Ethernet Port.
So for the POE DB version you could get power from the doorbell's transformer and just have the ethernet cable connected to a non-POE switch/source for those who don't have a POE switch/injector.

On the WiFi version (Non-POE Ethernet port) you can use either the WiFi Interface or the Ethernet port interface. Power has to be connected to a transformer.

I am confused by both and what the ReoLink engineers were thinking.

Getting into the Smart Doorbell cult has been quite a ride. I will say it was fun with this Hikvision DB, kept me busy since I do like to tinker with devices.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Willow
Agreed but this is just a doorbell, all my cameras are PoE, like I said, they could have made it working with mechanical chimes and even implemented something that could work using existing wiring, but they decided to just make a small form factor PoE camera and slap a button on it lol

I had no idea people ran ethernet cable to doorbells, are there other manufacturer doing the same as Reolink???
There are other POE Doorbells out there, even Ring has one, way over priced.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Daijoubu
Understood. You may be able to fix your glare by angling the DB some, maybe down more.

Had the Reolink not become available I would still have my Hik DB. My LaView DB was great for the 3+ years I had it running, actually it is still running, left it on our old house and brought the Reolink to our new house. Mainly the Reolink POE is what drew me that direction, but I ended up buying both and tested both, I was pleased with my results.

I use the 2.4 band even on the Reolink as I did with the LaView DB, I found it to perform better, that is no signal drops.

As far as Chimes, this is I would say a top question/concern with the Reolink since it does not connect to an existing Chime (Though there are ways to trigger your existing chimes with relays and a home automation system like Home Assistant) but what most found, the Chime that comes with the Reolink has worked for most concerned. Plus we found a way to add more 3rd party Chimes since they use RF 433MHz



Use your Existing Chime with the Reolink DB


I disconnected the doorbell to closely inspect the lens and found some scratches but not sure if they are causing the glare. I turned off the security lights to view the image and the glare is still there(attached). Tonight I’ll play around with a shade above the lens to see if it alters the glare.

That Reolink is in the running with the Amcrest AD410 as my next toy. I have an Amcrest NVR recording 24/7 on the DB1 along with 3 other Amcrest Wifi cameras on motion detect.(reason why the AD410 is on the list). Kind of wish there was a 2023 version of the DB1 with ONVIF of course.

Maybe the Reolink will win! I like the idea of 3rd party chimes giving me more to play around with.
 

Attachments

  • lights out.jpg
    lights out.jpg
    709.3 KB · Views: 7
  • Like
Reactions: David L
I disconnected the doorbell to closely inspect the lens and found some scratches but not sure if they are causing the glare. I turned off the security lights to view the image and the glare is still there(attached). Tonight I’ll play around with a shade above the lens to see if it alters the glare.

That Reolink is in the running with the Amcrest AD410 as my next toy. I have an Amcrest NVR recording 24/7 on the DB1 along with 3 other Amcrest Wifi cameras on motion detect.(reason why the AD410 is on the list). Kind of wish there was a 2023 version of the DB1 with ONVIF of course.

Maybe the Reolink will win! I like the idea of 3rd party chimes giving me more to play around with.
So are those spots stationary? Are the same spots each day? Orbs are known which are dust.