New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

[klunkerbus]

By looking at the picture of circuit, it seems to me that the powerkit is a voltage regulator to allow continuing voltage to the DB1...

I actually had another paragraph in my post that I removed in a meager attempt to reduce the long post length. An advantage of shunting across the mechanical chime during the inactive state is that yes, the video doorbell will then be receiving pretty much the full AC voltage of the power transformer. The oscilloscope measurements in the earlier post confirm that (40vpp measured across the video doorbell, only 3vpp across the mechanical chime).

Without the shunt resistor, the available voltage will be split between the video doorbell and the mechanical chime, with the ratio driven by the load each device has. It won't necessarily be evenly split. It seems safe to say that not all mechanical chime coils are wound exactly the same, and the load from the video doorbell will vary - especially with IR lighting and audio speaking. Add in the variable of what any given transformer will output for that series load and you have quite a mix involved.

 

[klunkerbus]

Gotta say, I think you guys are on to something. Thanks.
I do have a question, there have been several DB owners here who could not get their Digital/Electronic Chime to work without using the power kit, at least a half of dozen or so. Since there is no hum issue on a Digital Chime why is the power kit needed?
Just curious you guys take on that.

I've made a pass at searching through the thread for the history with electronic chimes. Can you answer a question? Is there any kind of setting on the video doorbell where you choose the type of chime that you have? Mabye a selection between none/mechanical/electronic? I've seen posts mention how some firmware's had a duration setting. I didn't run across anyone mentioning any other setting. Knowing that might help me understand how to answer your question.

 

[pete_c]

I personally liked the way that the Ring doorbell uses a rechargable / stand alone set up / removable battery in their doorbell. Wishing Hikvision would do the same thing.

Some fellow automation peers are using multiple Ring Doorbells for CCTV these days and change the batteries every couple of months paying their monthly cloud storage fees.

The issues of different transformers, chimes et al keep coming up here.

My chime / AC Transformer here was 10VAC. I went to a 16VAC transformer and my chine today is much louder than it used to be. When using the Ring Doorbell I made no changes here. No new transformer, no new chime. Everything worked as it was configured for years. (well too here had added two doorbell circuits for the alarm panel in the early 2000's).

I do believe that Hikvision is listening a bit changing the video doorbell base OS to allow for use without the cloud, RTSP, ONVIF and JPG. Adding CGI / Web interface would be icing on the cake here.

Unrelated to the OP and doing an automated thermostat in the early 2000's I had many issues with the supply voltage and surges relating to power sucking from the thermostat. The thermostat had standard thermostat wires going to the HVAC motherboard and serial wires going to the automation / security panel. The solution that worked for me was investing in a same company aux power supply / aux thermostat board mounted in side and over the HVAC motherboard (which totalled around $300 at the time plus the cost of the automated thermostat). This was a band aid / mickey mouse solution that has worked now for close to 20 years.

 

[klunkerbus]

Digital chime most likely use a dry contact circuity which closes when it detect a voltage allowing the voltage travel to the chime circuity to active it. When the contact is open, there is no power going to the DB1. It still will need the powerkit to bypass the chime circuity completely to keep the DB1 powered on.

There might be some electronic chimes that use the doorbell button in a dry contact way, but that's not my understanding of how most work. With electronic chimes, the chime needs to be receiving power even when the doorbell button isn't pressed. Why? Because the chime may be playing some melody or MP3 tune that continues well past when the doorbell button has been released.

The "typical" way electronic chimes work without requiring any wiring change for any installation is to use one polarity of the AC sine wave as a means to power the electronic chime continuously. This is accomplished by connecting a diode across the mechanical doorbell button. When the doorbell button is pressed, the other polarity of the sine wave is also supplied to the chime unit as a way to trigger the melody/tune play action. When the button is released, the electronic chime can continue playing since the chime continues to get power from the one remaining polarity of the sine wave. In my signature, I've added a path to a doorbell wiring summary I put together a while back that has a section explaining this in more detail.

 

[gnuB]

Newb question or two. I am using Eero Pro mesh setup with Google Fiber but unfortunately it doesn’t support vlan tagging so I am trying to decide which way to go (pfsense box, or Edgerouter). Anyway, I just installed Nelly’s db cam but I connected it to my guest network to isolate it from any shenanigans using the Guarding Vision app. I want to use the camera with my Synology but because the db is on different network Synology can’t see it. I would appreciate any helpful advice.

I have been reading through this long (useful) thread and I see that people have the ability to tweak camera quality settings but not how they are actually doing this. Is that functionality only available if you use something like BlueIris? I’m a Mac user so I have not picked up that software.

 

[David L]

Digital chime most likely use a dry contact circuity which closes when it detect a voltage allowing the voltage travel to the chime circuity to active it. When the contact is open, there is no power going to the DB1. It still will need the powerkit to bypass the chime circuity completely to keep the DB1 powered on.

If the DB Cam manufacturer want to eliminate the powerkit or diode completely, then they need to add a third terminal on their DB which mean homeowner will have to run one more wire to the Doorbell location. The third terminal would send the voltage to the chime while the the first two terminal will keep the DB powered.

Same with today digital thermostats, there are no power going to the thermostats wiring since thermostats are a simple open and closed contact switch and now with digital thermostat it will either need the extra wire to power it or use batteries to keep it powered.

Nicely explained. Yeah, one of my first Smart Thermostats had to have a C wire (24 volts) to keep it powered up. I think this is a very simple explanation of why we, those with Chimes, need the power kit.

Will include this and klunkerbus in the 101.

Thank You Guys

 

[David L]

I personally liked the way that the Ring doorbell uses a rechargable / stand alone set up / removable battery in their doorbell. Wishing Hikvision would do the same thing.

Some fellow automation peers are using multiple Ring Doorbells for CCTV these days and change the batteries every couple of months paying their monthly cloud storage fees.

The issues of different transformers, chimes et al keep coming up here.

My chime / AC Transformer here was 10VAC. I went to a 16VAC transformer and my chine today is much louder than it used to be. When using the Ring Doorbell I made no changes here. No new transformer, no new chime. Everything worked as it was configured for years. (well too here had added two doorbell circuits for the alarm panel in the early 2000's).

I do believe that Hikvision is listening a bit changing the video doorbell base OS to allow for use without the cloud, RTSP, ONVIF and JPG. Adding CGI / Web interface would be icing on the cake here.

Unrelated to the OP and doing an automated thermostat in the early 2000's I had many issues with the supply voltage and surges relating to power sucking from the thermostat. The thermostat had standard thermostat wires going to the HVAC motherboard and serial wires going to the automation / security panel. The solution that worked for me was investing in a same company aux power supply / aux thermostat board mounted in side and over the HVAC motherboard (which totalled around $300 at the time plus the cost of the automated thermostat). This was a band aid / mickey mouse solution that has worked now for close to 20 years.

On my first Smart Thermostat I had to replace the 4 wire to 6 wire running down to my Thermostat Controller. I to connected to a 24 volt terminal on my furnace unit to create a C wire. A transformer would of worked to.

With the Nest, in our new house (which has 6 wires), did not need a C wire even though a terminal in the Nest Controller is available if required. I have to say the install on the Nest was great, the App shows pics of the wiring needed by entering in your present wired Controller. It said I did not need to use a C Wire and continues to run today without one. I got the Nest for free with a Electrical plan I signed up a few years back. Had I had a choice I would of liked a Ecobee. Of course this is off topic, sorry.

 

[pete_c]

That is the issue (s) yesterday and today with any sort of automation (well like CCTV automation / installation).

Most homeowners that I know are not electricians or up on low voltage wiring or have a granular knowledge base relating to wireless / wired networks or computers in general. The knowledgebase relating to security / CCTV was mostly privatized with security vendors and montly reoccurring costs and automation never entered the picture of security and CCTV. Today it is difficult but the same. Many folks do not mind paying a monthly fee to an ISP for security monitoring / CCTV.

In general many are familiar with the operation of their home computer and / or their smart phone.

So we have a new Wireless Doorbell here that only utilizes your doorbell wires (a commonly installed option in any home here in the US in the last 50 years), your smartphone and your wireless access point. Easy peasey stuff for just about anyone.


I write that but generally many folks do not touch any wires in their home (even low voltage wires) or thermostat wires or doorbell wires.

It should not be that the average homeowner needs to learn about their doorbell, power supply or chimes.

The above said most home owners do not mind using iOT devices today because it is easey peasey. They do not look at the grey areas and are mostly not familiar and really do not care.

It is nice that maybe Hikvision is listening and giving us the best of both worlds of CCTV today. But as always and personally I want more.

 

[David L]

@TechBill , @klunkerbus , How would you connect a second Chime to our Doorbell? Run them in series or could they be connected in parallel. Trying to help out @Pliable Pixels

Parallel New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera
Series New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

Thanks Guys...

 

[David L]

@TechBill , @klunkerbus , Is it safe to say when connecting a second Chime to our DBs to run them in series or could they be connected in parallel. Trying to help out Pliable Pixels.

Finally had the chance to get this installed, the improvement over the Skybell the alarm company installed is unbelievable. Now I just need to figure out how to add the cam to my Synology. While setup I opted to connect to my guest network because I’m not keen on putting my main network password out there on some app. Also, I’m hoping there is a way to lower the external volume on the camera itself, it’s terribly loud but I do not see any way to adjust it in the Guarding Vision app.

Yeah, we hear that a lot from ex Nest and Ring owners. I looked at the Skybell awhile back but held off, glad I did this DB is great for me, I am sure we will see more generations of this DB. So which one did you go with? Nelly's? I looked back and saw you were leaning that direction and one time, if so you have ONVIF support which should make it much easier to connect to your Synology (I assume Synology has an ONVIF discover option like Blue Iris).

Be sure and check out the Batch Configuration Tool you can adjust volume there, but not DB ring volume. Only EZVIZ firmware is able to do that with EZVIZ App, at this time.

 

[David L]

I've made a pass at searching through the thread for the history with electronic chimes. Can you answer a question? Is there any kind of setting on the video doorbell where you choose the type of chime that you have? Mabye a selection between none/mechanical/electronic? I've seen posts mention how some firmware's had a duration setting. I didn't run across anyone mentioning any other setting. Knowing that might help me understand how to answer your question.

So yes, only the recent EZVIZ App removed this option. none/mechanical/electronic? Guarding Vision App, I am told, still has the option as with Hik-Connect & LaView ONE App. I am guessing they removed it to cut down on support calls. I got a message about a fuse being blown for picking the wrong option:


Hope this answers your question. I am not aware of a firmware that eliminates this option, only the EZVIZ App. Just recently Marty McFly had his Chime stop working from his EZVIZ DB1, we found that his EZVIZ App (update?) must of changed it to None. He loaded Hik-Connect App and changed it back.

 

[gnuB]

@TechBill , @klunkerbus , Is it safe to say when connecting a second Chime to our DBs to run them in series or could they be connected in parallel. Trying to help out Pliable Pixels.

Yeah, we hear that a lot from ex Nest and Ring owners. I looked at the Skybell awhile back but held off, glad I did this DB is great for me, I am sure we will see more generations of this DB. So which one did you go with? Nelly's? I looked back and saw you were leaning that direction and one time, if so you have ONVIF support which should make it much easier to connect to your Synology (I assume Synology has an ONVIF discover option like Blue Iris).

Be sure and check out the Batch Configuration Tool you can adjust volume there, but not DB ring volume. Only EZVIZ firmware is able to do that with EZVIZ App, at this time.

I did go with the Nelly’s version. Unfortunately the Skybell is the only db cam compatible with Honeywell Total Connect 2.0. Ideally I’d like to get the Nelly’s off the cloud using my Synology and/or incorporate it into Hubitat Elevation Hub. I was looking at the Batch Configuration tool but unfortunately I’m a Mac user (I didn’t see any Mac version).

 

[klunkerbus]

@TechBill , @klunkerbus , How would you connect a second Chime to our Doorbell? Run them in series or could they be connected in parallel. Trying to help out @Pliable Pixels

Parallel New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera
Series New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

Thanks Guys...

I'm not sure I have an answer. I don't have one of these video doorbells, so any suggestion from me would be of questionable value. I would think, however, that only trial and error would determine a) how well the transformer and doorbell can drive two chimes in parallel, or b) whether the chimes ring too weak when they are wired in series.

One comment though - both of your diagrams show the two chimes wired in parallel. I've attached a corrected drawing showing what the series connected chimes would look like.

 

[David L]

Newb question or two. I am using Eero Pro mesh setup with Google Fiber but unfortunately it doesn’t support vlan tagging so I am trying to decide which way to go (pfsense box, or Edgerouter). Anyway, I just installed Nelly’s db cam but I connected it to my guest network to isolate it from any shenanigans using the Guarding Vision app. I want to use the camera with my Synology but because the db is on different network Synology can’t see it. I would appreciate any helpful advice.

I have been reading through this long (useful) thread and I see that people have the ability to tweak camera quality settings but not how they are actually doing this. Is that functionality only available if you use something like BlueIris? I’m a Mac user so I have not picked up that software.

Funny you mentioned pfSense, this is the Big project I mentioned earlier. I love my new pfSense Router. So, So many options now. Got an Asus AC3200 for sale Also went with TP-Link for managed switches (My network is so much faster now), only 2 more left to install , Got a 24 port for my Main off the pfSense Box, one 16 port of my Office and four 8 ports for the rooms. My pfSense box is running on a fanless Qotom i5 Mini PC. Check out Qotom. All of this thanks to @pete_c (Thanks Pete, I am now broke ), no actually very reasonably priced for a home Enterprise Network...You don't have to go 4 port like I did, I plan to have our home Website hang off of one of the extra OPT ports.
List of my Switches:

T1600G-28TS 24 port
TL-SG1016PE 16 port
TL-SG108PE 8 port (Very popular switch for VLANs)

I did buy some managed TP-Link Access Points too:

EAP245
EAP225

You can have 16 SSIDs on each of these, 8 per band. So far I like their Guest SSID, quick way to separate traffic, they also support VLAN. So far the EAP245 that is installed has a very good range. I have not tested it fully though. If these do not work out I can always go with a better AP.

I have to add TP-Link support, both phone and Chat has been outstanding. I have asked many questions during my install.

Doorbell 101 should help you with some of your config questions.

 

[David L]

I'm not sure I have an answer. I don't have one of these video doorbells, so any suggestion from me would be of questionable value. I would think, however, that only trial and error would determine a) how well the transformer and doorbell can drive two chimes in parallel, or b) whether the chimes ring too weak when they are wired in series.

One comment though - both of your diagrams show the two chimes wired in parallel. I've attached a corrected drawing showing what the series connected chimes would look like.

View attachment 59175

Haha, I actually drew that same/similar diagram and I don't know why I changed it. Yes, too funny the one I posted was wrong. Thank you for catching that. Been preoccupied lately. So have you thought about going with a Hik DB? When they are on sale you can get one for $90.

@Pliable Pixels please make note...

 

[David L]

No problem.
Okay, so I now have:
a) A 24V 30VA transformer
b) EZViz DB1 fuse connected to the one of the wires that lead to the DB1 (connected to transformer side, not bell side, due to space)
c) One chime bypassed (wires connected together)
d) One chime active, with the EZViz power kit and no additional resistor

Chime works, Bell works.

Now lets see what happens in 24 hrs (when I first set it up, buzzing started the next day)

Thank you for your patient help.

FYI:

New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

By looking at the picture of circuit, it seems to me that the powerkit is a voltage regulator to allow continuing voltage to the DB1... I actually had another paragraph in my post that I removed in a meager attempt to reduce the long post length. An advantage of shunting across the mechanical...

ipcamtalk.com

 

[David L]

I did go with the Nelly’s version. Unfortunately the Skybell is the only db cam compatible with Honeywell Total Connect 2.0. Ideally I’d like to get the Nelly’s off the cloud using my Synology and/or incorporate it into Hubitat Elevation Hub. I was looking at the Batch Configuration tool but unfortunately I’m a Mac user (I didn’t see any Mac version).

Here is the MAC version of iVMS-4200 which is similar to Batch Config Tool.

I just got my Hubitat hub about a month ago, have not installed it. Plan on replacing my SmartThings hub with it.

 

[David L]

That is the issue (s) yesterday and today with any sort of automation (well like CCTV automation / installation).

Most homeowners that I know are not electricians or up on low voltage wiring or have a granular knowledge base relating to wireless / wired networks or computers in general. The knowledgebase relating to security / CCTV was mostly privatized with security vendors and montly reoccurring costs and automation never entered the picture of security and CCTV. Today it is difficult but the same. Many folks do not mind paying a monthly fee to an ISP for security monitoring / CCTV.

In general many are familiar with the operation of their home computer and / or their smart phone.

So we have a new Wireless Doorbell here that only utilizes your doorbell wires (a commonly installed option in any home here in the US in the last 50 years), your smartphone and your wireless access point. Easy peasey stuff for just about anyone.


I write that but generally many folks do not touch any wires in their home (even low voltage wires) or thermostat wires or doorbell wires.

It should not be that the average homeowner needs to learn about their doorbell, power supply or chimes.

The above said most home owners do not mind using iOT devices today because it is easey peasey. They do not look at the grey areas and are mostly not familiar and really do not care.

It is nice that maybe Hikvision is listening and giving us the best of both worlds of CCTV today. But as always and personally I want more.

Very true statement...

 

[David L]

I personally liked the way that the Ring doorbell uses a rechargable / stand alone set up / removable battery in their doorbell. Wishing Hikvision would do the same thing.

Some fellow automation peers are using multiple Ring Doorbells for CCTV these days and change the batteries every couple of months paying their monthly cloud storage fees.

The issues of different transformers, chimes et al keep coming up here.

My chime / AC Transformer here was 10VAC. I went to a 16VAC transformer and my chine today is much louder than it used to be. When using the Ring Doorbell I made no changes here. No new transformer, no new chime. Everything worked as it was configured for years. (well too here had added two doorbell circuits for the alarm panel in the early 2000's).

I do believe that Hikvision is listening a bit changing the video doorbell base OS to allow for use without the cloud, RTSP, ONVIF and JPG. Adding CGI / Web interface would be icing on the cake here.

Unrelated to the OP and doing an automated thermostat in the early 2000's I had many issues with the supply voltage and surges relating to power sucking from the thermostat. The thermostat had standard thermostat wires going to the HVAC motherboard and serial wires going to the automation / security panel. The solution that worked for me was investing in a same company aux power supply / aux thermostat board mounted in side and over the HVAC motherboard (which totalled around $300 at the time plus the cost of the automated thermostat). This was a band aid / mickey mouse solution that has worked now for close to 20 years.

Remember they have a battery operated version:

Jual EZVIZ DB2 Smart Door Bell H105°/V180Z 3MP 5m PIR Motion Detection 3D DNR / DWDR Dualband Two Way Talks IP65 MicroS upto 128GB M2 Store SM

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www.jd.id

 

[Pliable Pixels]

@Pliable Pixels please make note...

@David L thank you so much for the follow up. So it looks like based on the diagram, a single power kit can handle both chimes! Unfortunately, I don't think I can do that wiring as all the wiring runs inside our walls so I can't really rewire them to connect F to T between the chimes as shown. In my case, I have 3 sets of wires going out from my transformer, first one to Chime 1, second to Chime 2 and the third to the Doorbell.

The good news is so far the system with 1 chime on, fuse and power kit installed and my 30VA 34V trans, the system is working well and no buzz yet. I'm fine with not enabling chime 2 (it's in the basement and it doesn't matter as much if it doesn't ring). One of the side effects of the 24V 30VA trans is the first floor bell seems to be ringing louder, so we can hear it from everywhere :-D

Do you work for EZViz or Hikvision? I've noticed you mentioned "our bell" several times - not sure if you mean the bell you've installed, or the whether that means you work for Hik/EZViz?