New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

[David L]

Thanks David!

Just installed my RCA brand Doorbell (bought from ebay early this year with the stamp on the product box: SD C-10285 # 194211086 v1.1 ) + power kit for the mechanical chime and so far everything works. It came with the RCA firmware version 180809, which has been updated to the latest RCA version 190124 in RCA Security app. Later, upgraded to the LAVIEW firmware 190716 with Batch Tool to enable the ONVIF feature, which didn't brick the RCA brand Doorbell.
RCA Security app seems still to work with the RCA Doorbell with the LAVIEW firmware on, but what is the step if I want to switch to other compatible apps. Any recommendations?

Great news, thank you for sharing. It is important to give the detail you gave to help us with the RCA bricking issue. I will add you to our list of successful RCA owners who upgraded to LaView firmware. We had one recently upgrade to Hik firmware too. Really thinking our bricking problem was upgrading to Nelly's firmware. But I still do not want to remove the Warning in the Doorbell 101 just yet.

As for the Apps just have your QR Scan Code ready to change Apps. Each App is a little different so it will be your preference as to which one you like. The key to using some of these Apps is you have to remove (unregister) your device in your previous App, except for Guarding Vision, oh and I think Hik-Connect too, not sure there. There is no problem in changing Apps and it will not stop or reset your Doorbell, it is just how you talk remotely to your Doorbell. I would try Guarding first since you can switch back and forth between RCA App and it.

⦁ Available Apps (Allows Remote Access):
iO/S: Hik-Connect, RCA Security, EZVIZ, LaView One, Guarding Vision
Android: Hik-Connect, RCA Security, EZVIZ, LaView ONE, Guarding Vision

I do have a question. Did you upgrade straight from RCA build 180809 to LaView build 190716 or did you update your RCA firmware to 190124 first then upgrade to LaView?

Thanks,
David

 

[Pliable Pixels]

Thank you. Yes, I do think it's my wiring. I am going to disconnect the 3 sets of wires (chime 1 + chime 2 + doorbell) from the transformer and only start with the doorbell wire once I get my new transformer. And this time, I've ordered a 16V 30VA. I do have a question though - if it was an issue with my wiring, wouldn't my traditional old doorbell, or my older video doorbell (Home - Video doorbell for your home & office | dbell | dbell home) cause the same issue? To be safe, I've also ordered a replacement DB1. I'll be checking for doorbell side wire mess-ups as well, though it is unlikely - it's just a small amount of wire, wirenutted.

Just some observations:
The DB1 is in essence just a switch like your old doorbell. It should not and probably can not short out a transformer.
I don't know the situation in the US but in EU we use so called doorbell transformers. When the doorbell is pressed you practically short out the transformer. The transformer should be suitable for this.
As you shorted out 3 transformers already there has to be something else going on. I agree with Pete_c; disconnect the wires and start measuring and start checking your components.
As your basement TV has something to do with it, maybe you experiencing a ground loop?

 

[David L]

Thank you. Yes, I do think it's my wiring. I am going to disconnect the 3 sets of wires (chime 1 + chime 2 + doorbell) from the transformer and only start with the doorbell wire once I get my new transformer. And this time, I've ordered a 16V 30VA. I do have a question though - if it was an issue with my wiring, wouldn't my traditional old doorbell, or my older video doorbell (Home - Video doorbell for your home & office | dbell | dbell home) cause the same issue? To be safe, I've also ordered a replacement DB1. I'll be checking for doorbell side wire mess-ups as well, though it is unlikely - it's just a small amount of wire, wirenutted.

So am I reading this right, the dbell can not work on a 30va trans.? Also noticed they want you to not use your existing Chime, they wire the FRONT & TRANS. wires together. Eliminates the power kit and Chime too? Interesting. So did you have your Chime(s) connected to the dbell?

Setup - dbell

dbell app setup can be done in two ways: Wireless setup Network setup Wireless setup 1. Power-up dbell: Power-up dbell using supplied power adapter or Using supplied USB to DC power cable. Connect the USB end of the power cable to your smartphone charger and DC end to the dbell. After you...

www.dbell.ca

 

[Pliable Pixels]

No, sorry if my post was confusing. For the dbell:

1. I never replaced my 10 year old transformer - it worked out of the box (the dbell had other issues, unrelated to this topic, which is why I bought the ezviz)
2. No, the Dbell did not work with my old chimes - they asked me to short both and they provided their own wireless chime kit that worked well.

With EZViz, so far, chime shorted or not, my transformers keep blowing.

So am I reading this right, the dbell can not work on a 30va trans.? Also noticed they want you to not use your existing Chime, they wire the FRONT & TRANS. wires together. Eliminates the power kit and Chime too? Interesting. So did you have your Chime(s) connected to the dbell?

 

[David L]

No, sorry if my post was confusing. For the dbell:

1. I never replaced my 10 year old transformer - it worked out of the box (the dbell had other issues, unrelated to this topic, which is why I bought the ezviz)
2. No, the Dbell did not work with my old chimes - they asked me to short both and they provided their own wireless chime kit that worked well.

With EZViz, so far, chime shorted or not, my transformers keep blowing.

So question, you stated chime shorted or not on the EZViz, when you did the no chime wiring of your EZVIZ, you eliminated using the Chime wires right, in other words only connect the EZVIZ Doorbell wires to the transformer (no other wires connected).
If your transformer blew while only connected to your Doorbell (No Chime Wires connected), I would start there in checking those wires.

 

[Pliable Pixels]

So far, when I say "no chime wiring" I mean I connected the chime wires together of both chimes essentially bypassing the chimes. In this case, there were 3 sets of wires going from my transformers - one to the doorbell, one to chime 1 (but wires were shorted at the chime end), one to chime 2 (but wires were shorted at the chime end).

In this case, too, transformers blew.

What I plan to do now, once I get another new transformer (but this time 16V 30VA not 24V 30VA), is disconnect the chime wires from the transformer instead of shorting them and only keeping the doorbell wire. I also plan to install the fuse wire to the doorbell wire at the transformer end.

So question, you stated chime shorted or not on the EZViz, when you did the no chime wiring of your EZVIZ, you eliminated using the Chime wires right, in other words only connect the EZVIZ Doorbell wires to the transformer (no other wires connected).
If your transformer blew while only connected to your Doorbell (No Chime Wires connected), I would start there in checking those wires.

 

[David L]

So far, when I say "no chime wiring" I mean I connected the chime wires together of both chimes essentially bypassing the chimes. In this case, there were 3 sets of wires going from my transformers - one to the doorbell, one to chime 1 (but wires were shorted at the chime end), one to chime 2 (but wires were shorted at the chime end).

In this case, too, transformers blew.

What I plan to do now, once I get another new transformer (but this time 16V 30VA not 24V 30VA), is disconnect the chime wires from the transformer instead of shorting them and only keeping the doorbell wire. I also plan to install the fuse wire to the doorbell wire at the transformer end.

If you are leaving the Chime(s) wires (wired nutted together) on the transformer you are creating a consent direct short. This would explain why it only worked for a short time. All you need is 2 wires one cable (Doorbell to Trans.) and the fuse on one wire at trans. If this is what happened, your wires are probably ok.

On the dbell they wanted anyone with one Chime to wire the trans. and front together to continue the series wiring. With your EZVIZ you would only add the power kit at the Chime (which I remember you mentioning doing so at the transformer with no room at your chime), which probably should not matter as long as it is wired right.

When you connect your One Chime; Wire it like below:
(Notice only one wire nut at the transformer, 2 cables are going to the transformer, one from Doorbell and one from Chime, each cable has two wires). One wire from the Doorbell will wire into the transformer and one wire from the Chime will wire to the other terminal on the transformer, the remaining 2 wires (one from Doorbell and One from Chime) will wire nut together.


Hope this helps, please ask if you are unsure, no need to blow a forth transformer.

David

 

[David L]

So far, when I say "no chime wiring" I mean I connected the chime wires together of both chimes essentially bypassing the chimes. In this case, there were 3 sets of wires going from my transformers - one to the doorbell, one to chime 1 (but wires were shorted at the chime end), one to chime 2 (but wires were shorted at the chime end).

In this case, too, transformers blew.

What I plan to do now, once I get another new transformer (but this time 16V 30VA not 24V 30VA), is disconnect the chime wires from the transformer instead of shorting them and only keeping the doorbell wire. I also plan to install the fuse wire to the doorbell wire at the transformer end.

Please see my more detailed instructions:

New RCA HSDB2A 3MP Doorbell IP Camera

Thanks David! Just installed my RCA brand Doorbell (bought from ebay early this year with the stamp on the product box: SD C-10285 # 194211086 v1.1 ) + power kit for the mechanical chime and so far everything works. It came with the RCA firmware version 180809, which has been updated to the...

ipcamtalk.com

 

[David L]

Thanks David!

Just installed my RCA brand Doorbell (bought from ebay early this year with the stamp on the product box: SD C-10285 # 194211086 v1.1 ) + power kit for the mechanical chime and so far everything works. It came with the RCA firmware version 180809, which has been updated to the latest RCA version 190124 in RCA Security app. Later, upgraded to the LAVIEW firmware 190716 with Batch Tool to enable the ONVIF feature, which didn't brick the RCA brand Doorbell.
RCA Security app seems still to work with the RCA Doorbell with the LAVIEW firmware on, but what is the step if I want to switch to other compatible apps. Any recommendations?

Hey correction. I just loaded the Guarding Vision App and it too request me to unbind my previous account. Guess they (Apps) all require this. Which is a little hassle but no big deal.

 

[David L]

Happy Easter All...

 

[Pliable Pixels]

If you are leaving the Chime(s) wires (wired nutted together) on the transformer you are creating a consent direct short. This would explain why it only worked for a short time. All you need is 2 wires one cable (Doorbell to Trans.) and the fuse on one wire at trans. If this is what happened, your wires are probably ok.

No, the chime wires were nutted together at the chime end, not transformer end. Unless we did that, sufficient power was not provided to the door bell to operator. So I had to either connect the wires of each chime to "F" and "T" respectively (operational chime) or connect the two wires together at the chime end.

Are you saying this is wrong and was the reason why the transformer blew after a while?

When you connect your One Chime; Wire it like below:
(Notice only one wire nut at the transformer, 2 cables are going to the transformer, one from Doorbell and one from Chime, each cable has two wires). One wire from the Doorbell will wire into the transformer and one wire from the Chime will wire to the other terminal on the transformer, the remaining 2 wires (one from Doorbell and One from Chime) will wire nut together.

Hope this helps, please ask if you are unsure, no need to blow a forth transformer.

David

Thanks. To begin with, I plan to just start with the doorbell wire connected to the transformed. All chime wires will be removed from the transformer. So that means just one wire from the transformer going to the doorbell. Hope that is ok? Once that is stable for a few weeks, I'll stick in the other wire and only wire one chime as you show.

 

[David L]

No, the chime wires were nutted together at the chime end, not transformer end. Unless we did that, sufficient power was not provided to the door bell to operator. So I had to either connect the wires of each chime to "F" and "T" respectively (operational chime) or connect the two wires together at the chime end.

Are you saying this is wrong and was the reason why the transformer blew after a while?

If you had the Chime(s) wires on the transformer and they were shorted (wired together) at the Chime then yes, this is what blew your transformer. The transformer can handle short timed shorts (Like when a Doorbell button is pressed), but cannot handle a continuous short.

Thanks. To begin with, I plan to just start with the doorbell wire connected to the transformed. All chime wires will be removed from the transformer. So that means just one wire from the transformer going to the doorbell. Hope that is ok? Once that is stable for a few weeks, I'll stick in the other wire and only wire one chime as you show.

Yes you will be ok. Just Do Not connect the Chime any other way than what the diagram shows. Don't connect the two Chime wires on top of the Doorbell wires on the transformer.

When adding the Chime you will be removing one of the wires from the transformer and wire nutting it to one wire from the Chime, the one connected to the FRONT terminal on the Chime, then you would connect the other wire from the Chime, the one that is connected to the TRANS terminal on the Chime, to the terminal on the transformer that you removed the Doorbell wire from, doing all of this with Power Off Also don't forget to wire in the power kit too (see the diagram).

Identifying which Chime wire (TRANS or FRONT) going to your transformer is can be done usually by looking at a stripe/marking or color of the wire (jacket), most 2 wire cable comes this way, the same with twisted bell wire.

Hope this Helps,
David

 

[Emiks5]

Hey correction. I just loaded the Guarding Vision App and it too request me to unbind my previous account. Guess they (Apps) all require this. Which is a little hassle but no big deal.

This is odd. I use the EZViz and GV apps more ore less at the same time. No issues at all.

 

[David L]

This is odd. I use the EZViz and GV apps more ore less at the same time. No issues at all.

I thought so too but I was asked me to unbind my email address which is associated with my LaView...Weird.

 

[pete_c]

Happy Easter all!!!

 

[shoulih]

Here is a list of other RCA owners who have successfully upgraded to other brand firmware that you might want to reach out to, they may have your same stamp on their box.

Thanks David!

Just installed my RCA brand Doorbell (bought from ebay early this year with the stamp on the product box: SD C-10285 # 194211086 v1.1 ) + power kit for the mechanical chime and so far everything works. It came with firmware version

Hey correction. I just loaded the Guarding Vision App and it too request me to unbind my previous account. Guess they (Apps) all require this. Which is a little hassle but no big deal.

Got it, thanks David!

BTW, I upgraded the RCA firmware version 180809 to the latest RCA version 190124 in RCA Security app first, then upgraded from RCA version 190124 to the LAVIEW firmware 190716 with BatchTool .

 

[David L]

Thanks David!

Just installed my RCA brand Doorbell (bought from ebay early this year with the stamp on the product box: SD C-10285 # 194211086 v1.1 ) + power kit for the mechanical chime and so far everything works. It came with firmware version

Got it, thanks David!

BTW, I upgraded the RCA firmware version 180809 to the latest RCA version 190124 in RCA Security app first, then upgraded from RCA version 190124 to the LAVIEW firmware 190716 with BatchTool .

Thank you a million for this info. So I am going to drop from DEFCOM 1 on the 101 Warning to DEFCOM 3. I will point to your success but still with a Warning. I hate that some RCA owners might be missing out on ONVIF support.

 

[TechBill]

So far, when I say "no chime wiring" I mean I connected the chime wires together of both chimes essentially bypassing the chimes. In this case, there were 3 sets of wires going from my transformers - one to the doorbell, one to chime 1 (but wires were shorted at the chime end), one to chime 2 (but wires were shorted at the chime end).

In this case, too, transformers blew.

What I plan to do now, once I get another new transformer (but this time 16V 30VA not 24V 30VA), is disconnect the chime wires from the transformer instead of shorting them and only keeping the doorbell wire. I also plan to install the fuse wire to the doorbell wire at the transformer end.

No, the chime wires were nutted together at the chime end, not transformer end. Unless we did that, sufficient power was not provided to the door bell to operator. So I had to either connect the wires of each chime to "F" and "T" respectively (operational chime) or connect the two wires together at the chime end.

Are you saying this is wrong and was the reason why the transformer blew after a while?





Thanks. To begin with, I plan to just start with the doorbell wire connected to the transformed. All chime wires will be removed from the transformer. So that means just one wire from the transformer going to the doorbell. Hope that is ok? Once that is stable for a few weeks, I'll stick in the other wire and only wire one chime as you show.

If you had the Chime(s) wires on the transformer and they were shorted (wired together) at the Chime then yes, this is what blew your transformer. The transformer can handle short timed shorts (Like when a Doorbell button is pressed), but cannot handle a continuous short.

Yes you will be ok. Just Do Not connect the Chime any other way than what the diagram shows. Don't connect the two Chime wires on top of the Doorbell wires on the transformer.

When adding the Chime you will be removing one of the wires from the transformer and wire nutting it to one wire from the Chime, the one connected to the FRONT terminal on the Chime, then you would connect the other wire from the Chime, the one that is connected to the TRANS terminal on the Chime, to the terminal on the transformer that you removed the Doorbell wire from, doing all of this with Power Off Also don't forget to wire in the power kit too (see the diagram).

Identifying which Chime wire (TRANS or FRONT) going to your transformer is can be done usually by looking at a stripe/marking or color of the wire (jacket), most 2 wire cable comes this way, the same with twisted bell wire.

Hope this Helps,
David

If you are going to bypass the chime completely then you can disconnect both wired from chime but put that fuse linkage between the two wire and make sure your second chime is disconnected at well too.

Higher amperage the hotter the circuit will get so I would probably just stick with 10VA range rather than going to 30VA which can shorten the life of the circuity. If the DB wiring is a very long run then increase voltage from the previous voltage.

 

[shoulih]

Batch Configuration Tool crashes when trying to save WDR Mode setting with a RCA DBell on LAVIEW firmware 190716
Is anyone having the same issue?

 

[David L]

Batch Configuration Tool crashes when trying to save WDR Mode setting with a RCA DBell on LAVIEW firmware 190716
Is anyone having the same issue?

Have you tried iVMS-4200?