...there have been several DB owners here who could not get their Digital/Electronic Chime to work without using the power kit, at least a half of dozen or so. Since there is no hum issue on a Digital Chime why is the power kit needed?
After reading the thread to better understand the experiences people have had with electronic chimes, I now believe you pretty much HAVE to use the power kit with both a mechanical or electronic/digital chime. I'm tweaking my earlier theory about the chime kit. I now agree with
@TechBill that the primary purpose of the chime kit is to keep as much voltage applied to the video doorbell as possible when the circuit is in standby/quiescent mode, regardless of the type of chime used. The fact that a chime kit also reduces the buzzing or chatter from a mechanical chime is a secondary benefit. Those interested in hearing more can read on. Others can skip the long read that follows.
Let me start with a minimal configuration with a mechanical chime. The transformer, video doorbell and chime are all in a series loop. In a series loop, the same current is flowing through each item. The voltage seen across the video doorbell and the voltage seen across the chime will depend on the output voltage of the transformer and the nature of the loads presented by the chime solenoid coil and the video doorbell - the voltages may very likely differ. That's the way it works in a series circuit. Will this lead to enough voltage at the video doorbell to adequately power it? The current draw of the video doorbell will vary; how extensively will the varying current flowing through the chime lead to buzzing & chatter? Will everything work as expected? There's no fixed answer to these questions. There's many reasons why this might not work out very well.
An initial "basic" fix that at least used to help ensure success was to add a fixed resistor across the chime. In our series loop in standby mode, this would reduce the voltage across the chime and apply more voltage to the video doorbell. On the good side, this would keep the video doorbell more effectively powered and reduce the buzz/chatter from the mechanical chime. On the bad side, the effectiveness of the mechanical chime will be reduced by the shunt resistor. It might only ring one tone instead of ringing two tones like it used to, and might not chime as loud.
My guess is that newer generation video doorbells draw considerably more current in order to handle faster and more complex processing. Without some sort of shunt across the chime, there would be even less voltage across these higher load video doorbells in our series loop. Again. that's just the way the science works. Getting back to the idea of a fixed resistor across the chime, reducing the value of the resistor would help redistribute the voltage between the chime and video doorbell, but you'd soon get to a point where the chime won't effectively work when the video doorbell tries to ring the chime because the transformer just can't drive the heavy load presented by the shunt resistor & chime.
So, what the chime kit does is act like a smart shunt or smart resistor that effectively shorts out the chime when the circuit is in standby/quiescent mode, but then goes to significantly higher resistance when the chime is supposed to ring. It does this by monitoring (and effectively limiting) the current flowing in the series loop. The net effect of all this is that when the circuit is in standby, most of the transformer voltage is applied across the video doorbell, ensuring how well it functions. When the video doorbell temporarily shorts out in order to ring the chime, the transformer has no problem driving the chime - much as it would in a dumb circuit with a mechanical button instead of a video doorbell.
Now let's transition to an electronic chime. As I described in an earlier post, these NORMALLY function by being continuously powered by one polarity in the low voltage AC power waveform. This is accomplished by wiring a diode across the mechanical button (and even some video doorbells like Ring). The electronic chimes are then triggered to play when the other polarity in the AC waveform is also applied. This happens when the mechanical button or the Ring-like video doorbell effectively shorts out the diode and the entire AC waveform is passed onto the chime.
Based on the oscilloscope waveforms earlier in the thread and chime observations that people have posted, that scheme gets thrown out when the HIK chime kit is used with an electronic chime. In standby/quiescent state, the chime kit is applying a low shunt resistance across the chime, basically keeping the chime powered off. When the video doorbell wants to ring the chime, the chime kit removes or increases the shunt resistance and the full low voltage waveform is applied to the chime. This a) powers up the chime and b) subsequently triggers playing the tune or what ever the chime is programmed to do. The powering-up explains why there might be a delay before the chime starts ringing, as some have noted. If the delay is long enough, some electronic chimes might not even start to ring before power is removed - especially if the video doorbell is set to a short chime duration. I didn't run across anyone stating so, but I would think that if the chime is programmed to a play a long tune, only a portion of it will actually play. If the video doorbell is set to a long chime duration and the chime is set to something short like a single tone, I would also think the chime would ring multiple times.
Anyway, that's my thinking.