Newbie with the most basic installation set-up questions

zz28zz

n3wb
May 5, 2025
7
2
Austin
Hey everybody. Name here is John.

I'm preparing to install my first security camera sys. Have a 16ch NVR on the way and trying to imagine how I'm going to bring 16 cables thru the interior wall in my media room and make it look right.

Wondering if I can install a PoE switch in the attic and just run 1 cable down thru the interior wall. Attic gets pretty hot and A/C power isn't near-by.

Thx!
 
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Some ideas to consider.

1) Many POE switches have either a brick or a power wart for power. Consider cutting the output wire (48 VDC line) and adding an extension of the proper gauge wire to handle the load. Thus the 110 VAC input part of the system can be kept out of the attic.

Have used this system for running CAT-5 to power remote POE switches located under the eaves. Generally use CAT-5 by combining the brown/orange pairs for the plus side and the blue/green pairs for the negative side. Another option is to use a single 18 gauge pair for the 48 VDC line to the remote POE switch.

2) Commercial electronics usually have a maximum 70 C temperature operating limit. It is best to keep any unit well below the max for longer device life.

The cover could be removed for extra ventilation plus adding a muffin fan is another option. These fans are available in 48 VDC from a number of sources and could be run from the same line that powers the POE switch. Fan power requirements are in the 3 to 7 watt range depending on fan choice.

If the POE switch is a directly connected 110 VAC unit then the above suggestions will not be applicable.
 
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Thx guys. My main concern is, that part of the attic isn't really accessible by me. I'm getting a bit old for that type of activity. I was planning on hiring someone to run the cables so if the muffin fan or switch failed, it would be a pain to replace them. Attic temp is still a concern. Pretty sure it hits 60C (140F), maybe more in the hottest parts of summer.

Is there a way to run 16 cables into the media room and have it look decent? I've seen where a ~1 inch wire loom was attached to a wall plate in a video. Suppose another option would be a plate in the wall that has 16 network ports. Not sure how important it is for network cables to not have extra connections. I'm estimating that some of the cable runs will be close to 200ft.
 
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Thx guys. My main concern is, that part of the attic isn't really accessible by me. I'm getting a bit old for that type of activity. I was planning on hiring someone to run the cables so if the muffin fan or switch failed, it would be a pain to replace them. Attic temp is still a concern. Pretty sure it hits 60C (140F), maybe more in the hottest parts of summer.

Is there a way to run 16 cables into the media room and have it look decent? I've seen where a ~1 inch wire loom was attached to a wall plate in a video. Suppose another option would be a plate in the wall that has 16 network ports. Not sure how important it is for network cables to not have extra connections. I'm estimating that some of the cable runs will be close to 200ft.

I prefer to have a patch panel in a basement or closet for a small data center or networking closet.
 
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I have easy attic access in the main hallway where the A/C units are and in the garage. Distance from my media room to the 2 attic access points areas are abt the same distance (~125ft). The garage is un-insulated so the attic may be slightly cooler above the garage? Thinking of trying a cheaper PoE switch (with a fan?) above the garage and if it dies after a year or 2, just replace it. The attic above the garage also has 120V avail. I'm liking this idea more and more.

Need to get some ethernet cabling ordered ASAP. Any suggestions on brand/type? Should I use Cat5 to cameras and Cat6 between switch and NVR or does it matter?
 
Glad you found a solution.

Cat-5e is fine for the POE cameras. Most only use about 10 megs per camera so it would take a lot of cameras to exceed the bandwidth of Cat-5e. Some like to future proof with Cat-6, but the choice is yours.

Make sure that whatever you purchase is pure copper. NO CCA!!!!

For my setup with 29 Dahua cameras the bandwidth from the switch to Blue Iris is 324 Mpbs.

When running cable it is advisable to use run some extra runs for future needs and as spares in case something goes wrong.
 
Lots of great replies! I really appreciate the help.

The ethernet cabling is something I really don't want to do again so I'm willing to splurge on that a bit. Found some Belden Cat6 UTP Plunum-type cable that looks promising, but not cheap at all at 35 cents/ft. May need more than 1000 ft?? I love Belden cables in general, but is this overkill or future-proofing? What ever I go with, I know to leave a lot of extra in case I want to move a camera or repair a cable end.

With my internet, I have a modem that connects to a wifi router with 3 ethernet ports. Using 2 already, (TV and Xbox) only 1 open port left. NVR only has one LAN port. Does this mean I need to run 2 cables from the media room to the switch in the attic (1 from router and 1 from NVR) OR can I use another splitter to put the TV and Xbox onto one router port and then connect the switch and NVR to the router?

At some point , when I'm at home, I'd like to be able to get push notifications to my phone from NVR without the cameras connected to the net. while still having internet to the TV's / wifi thermostats, etc.. . At the same time, I want to be able to easily switch so cameras can be monitored remotely when I'm away. Still scratching my head over that one..
 
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True Cable out of Kansas City is another option for cable. Good call on Belden and it is a great cable, but costly.

Plenum is not needed unless the cable run is part of a ceiling or other space that is being used as part of your air return or supply system. What is generally required is riser if going between floors, etc.

Here use Blue Iris with a 24 port POE switch. The Window's computer runs two NIC's. One for the local LAN and the other on a different subnet for the cameras. That way the cameras have no internet access. Plus some go an additional step of also restricting internet access on the BI computer LAN to stop all MS Window's updates.

Then for camera access, on a tablet or cell, many use TailScale to view their feeds from any world wide location. With an NVR other options are available.
 
Need to get some ethernet cabling ordered ASAP. Any suggestions on brand/type?

Look at Monoprice, as mentioned pure copper.

 
It is listed as unshielded in the product description.

If buying direct from True Cable it is $10 less than Amazon for 1000 feet and includes free same day shipping.
 
From what I've gathered so far, I don't really need shielded in a "normal" house. Just wanted to confirm.

Ordered the cable off the big A and will be here tomorrow. Wanting to get things moving before it starts getting hot.

Looks like I'll need a pair of cutter/stripper/crimpers. Abt to pull the trigger on the Klein version. Here it is:

I see it comes with 50 connectors but no idea if I should try using them.

Sounds like I really need 3-point-touch /gold plated /for 23ga wiring. Any particular brand??

Thx again..
 
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For sure should use the Kline connectors that comes with the Kline tool.. If they provide you some pass though connectors that is because they want the End user to have best connection to start out with.. When you buy something from different company there is no way to know for sure that will work well with your Kline Crimper.. Want to use Kline or a Quality pass through connector. That can be hard if you don't buy their brand.. I made the mistake of buying a Generic pass through and while they worked fine for the most part everyone of them have tab issues where the clear plastic part is brittle and I might be able to make a connection to the switch 2 to 3 times before the tab breaks off.. I have some Kline that I made 10 years ago and I can still use the tabs without any issue.. If you got real Kline then you will want to stick with the Kline ends until you can find a quality back up brand that will work seamless with your tool..

They are not cheap.. Kline Ends Amazon
 
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Also use the Kline tool but a different model number (VDV226-011) which works well.

Have not used the pass through type of RJ-45 connectors. Be sure to use T-568B as the wiring guide. And as an extra, crimp three times to make sure it is making a good connection.

The other device that works well is a cable tester. Just a cheap continuity tester for around $40 will let you know if the wires are in the correct order. Using a NF-488 but they come in a number of different brands. This will NOT check the cable for bandwidth or look for impedance mismatches. Only continuity and will display if any wires are cross wired.

tester.png

Buying RJ-45 connectors on Amazon is sort of a crap shoot. Some work and other will not for a variety of reasons. Tried some but they fit too loose and would not connect well. The price is right, but the quality was questionable.

Instead bought a jar of 100 from Home Depot and so far no failures. Make sure it is a RJ-45 for CAT-6 and NOT CAT-5.


 
Also use the Kline tool but a different model number (VDV226-011) which works well.

Have not used the pass through type of RJ-45 connectors. Be sure to use T-568B as the wiring guide. And as an extra, crimp three times to make sure it is making a good connection.

The other device that works well is a cable tester. Just a cheap continuity tester for around $40 will let you know if the wires are in the correct order. Using a NF-488 but they come in a number of different brands. This will NOT check the cable for bandwidth or look for impedance mismatches. Only continuity and will display if any wires are cross wired.

View attachment 220712

Buying RJ-45 connectors on Amazon is sort of a crap shoot. Some work and other will not for a variety of reasons. Tried some but they fit too loose and would not connect well. The price is right, but the quality was questionable.

Instead bought a jar of 100 from Home Depot and so far no failures. Make sure it is a RJ-45 for CAT-6 and NOT CAT-5.


I have used a lot of the IDEAL connectors from Lowes, but got connectors from TrueCable when I made my last order. Both work well.

Also, a continuity tester is a must when making your own cables, especially when using a patch panel. It's saved my butt so many times.

Terminating CAT cable is easy.
  1. Strip back the sheathing .75-1 inch. I use a coax type, rotary stripper.
  2. Spread the twisted pairs into the approximate order they need to be in (Orange, Green, Blue, Brown).
  3. Untwist the pairs down to where they enter the sheathing.
  4. Put the conductors in the correct order (T-568B standard). At this point they are still splayed out, just in the correct order.
  5. I then use something small and round to drag against the conductor to straighten it out (typically one of the wrenches supplied with an Empiretech cam).
  6. I put the conductors flat against each other and into the correct order.
  7. I hold the conductors flat (between my thumb and the side of my index finger) and then use my flush cuts to trim them straight and flush at about .5" from the sheathing (I use my thumb to set this distance when I hold them flat).
  8. While still holding the conductors flat and against each other I slide them into the RJ45 connector and press firmly until they are fully inserted.
  9. I do a check to make sure they are in the correct order and are all pressed completely to the end of the inside of the connector.
  10. I crimp the connector.
  11. I terminate the other end with a connector or punch it down to the patch panel.
  12. I check with my continuity tester.
  13. If all's good, Bob's your uncle.
 
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I was looking at the economical ethernet cable testers. Seems like a good idea especially for someone new to making up ethernet cables.

After more thought, I'm starting to think maybe running 16 cables into my media room isn't such a bad idea after all. I think I could get all the wires thru a 1" hole that could be easily covered or patched when I move in 2-3 years. This method would put everything together behind the TV in the media room and everything would run off the same UPS. . It would also give me the option to use a switch or connect cameras directly into the NVR in case the switch goes bad. Also when I connect a computer for BI later, having the switch right there would make connections much easier.

In regards to my prev question abt having notifications sent to my phone when motion is detected but cameras are not connected to the outside world, wonder it I could get another wifi router and have it dedicated to viewing cameras with my phone and getting motion notifications. Then when I leave the house, I could disconnect LAN cable from that wifi router and connect to my internet wifi router? The only downside to this I see is I wouldn't be able to receive phone calls/texts when connected to the camera wifi. My current cell phone is abt due for replacement anyway so guess I could have 2 phones. One stays at the house and connected to camera wifi and a new phone for normal use.

I never envisioned this being soo complicated..:facepalm:
 
Don't waste your money on the tester lol. All it checks is continuity and not the ability to pass POE.

We have lots of threads here were people tested the cable and connection showed fine and after much convincing by us, they snipped off the connector and added a new one and it worked lol.

You would need to spend thousands on a tester capable of giving you real results as it relates to POE.

My tester is does the camera power up lol.