One of my camera's is disconnected...

Just making sure I understand these power line adapters.

Do I:

1) connect a powerline adapter in an outlet next to the NVR.
2) connect an ethernet cable to a port on the NVR and power line adapter.
3) connect the remote powerline adapter in an outlet next to the camera.
4) connect an ethernet cable to a the power line adapter and camera.

Is that it?

Do I need to set anything up on the NVR?

Thanks you!
 
That is correct and nothing you have to do in the NVR - all it cares about is the IP address and the signal and doesn't care how it gets it.
 
123abc said:
Oh, does the camera need to be connected to an outlet as well, or will the power line adapter handle that? Thanks
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I've had good luck with TP-LINK ==>> TP-Link AV1000 Powerline Ethernet Adapter(TL-PA7017P KIT)- Gigabit Port, Plug and Play, Extra Power Socket for Additional Devices, Ideal for Smart TV

You'll need to power the cam with either a POE injector if it's POE-capable OR with a 12VDC wall wart.
 
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Funny you should suggest the TP-Link AV1000 Powerline Ethernet Adapter. That's what I purchased. Getting it today from Amazon. I'll be able to connect a 12v adapter for the camera. Thanks again for the help.
 
Ok, so I got the TP-Link AV1000 Powerline Ethernet Adapters. Connected and paired them. Everything worked, but after 10 minutes I got the attached messages. Any suggestions? Every time they get knocked off, I re-pair both adapters, but the same thing occurs after a few minutes. Thanks
 

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Insure that the circuit breakers that feed the 2 circuits where the PLA's are plugged in (1 at the NVR, the other at the cam) are on the same side of the breaker panel, either both on the left or both on the right...that means they are on the same phase of a 120/240V split phase, 3 wire residential service which they need to be for optimal operation.

Also insure neither PLA is on a surge suppressor strip or UPS (battery back up)
 
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Hey Tony,

I'll look into that. How does one check whether they're on the same side of the breaker panel? On the plus side, the adapter is connected directly in the wall.

Thanks!
 
If you don't know which breaker controls which outlet, you can pop all the breakers on one side and see if both ends of the nanostation go off.

Howver I have made it work with it on opposite sides of the breaker box.
 
123abc said:
Hey Tony,

I'll look into that. How does one check whether they're on the same side of the breaker panel? On the plus side, the adapter is connected directly in the wall.

Thanks!
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As stated in my post #49.

Or you find the breaker for each by turning it off and note if both are on the same physical side of the panel...both left or both right
If they are on the same side, the "OFF" direction will be the same for both.

I'm not sure what you mean by "the adapter is connected directly in the wall" but it still is powered by a circuit breaker in the panel.
 
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Hey guys, as soon as it stops raining, I'll check the panel. In the meantime, I am getting live view, but it comes and goes. Either I get Unstable connection or Failed to play video.

My question is, if the 2 power line adapters were not on the same circuit, would it still work, even though it's sporadic?

@Tony, regarding "the adapter is connected directly in the wall", I meant the power line adapter is connected directly in the outlet. The manual says to do so.

Thanks!
 
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123abc said:
My question is, if the 2 power line adapters were not on the same circuit, would it still work, even though it's sporadic?
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It may, @wittaj says he had some work that way, mine didn't like it. It all depends how well the 2 lines are coupled capacitively, sometimes better when a 240VAC appliance, like a clothes dryer or water heater, is operating.

There's newer tech for the PLA's called G.hn that works better when the 2 PLA's are on different 120VAC legs (opposite sides of the panel).

Similarly, the old BSR/X-10 stuff from the 80's actually had a device to place between the 2 legs to "couple" them somewhat so the devices could communicate over the wiring better.
 
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I guess anything is possible, but I would think that either it works or doesn't. The intermittent has me questioning if a unit is defective or if you have a fault somewhere, which would be tough to find.

I have tested mine in a variety of scenarios as I helped friends with their system and all were successful.
  • Mine is on two different sides of the breaker box.
  • I tried it with an old house that only had two wiring outlets.
  • A friends house that had two panels and the breaker for each were one in each panel.
  • One that went thru like 3 GFCI to get to a shed in a backyard.
In every attempt I tried, it either worked or didn't. The times it didn't was when we had on a surge protector.


I would first try it with them both on the same breaker like in the same room or even the same outlet - make sure it isn't a defective unit.

I had an issue once where my one POE Switch started cutting out. Turned out to be too many LEDs on a circuit with a timer switch that didn't have a ground. I could either drop down to 3 LEDs and it would be fine, but add a 4th and the POE went nuts. So I took off every outlet and on/off switch on that circuit until I found that timer switch. Once I replaced it, all was good.
 
Not sure about G.hn, just on my old PLA they would either work or not, so your intermittent leads me to believe either PLA defect or something like mine where a combination of LED and no ground wire on a wall switch caused the issue.
 
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