POE CAT6 Tests OK Yet No Camera Connectivity

It is obvious that one of two things is going wrong.

1 - The camera is failing intermittently.
2 - The cable is failing intermittently.

If you eliminate one, like the camera, it has to be the other, the cable. No one can diagnose what went wrong over the internet. Just the act of removing the camera could easily remove the intermittent cable problem. If you had a TDR and could actually "look" at the conductors it might be possible to figure out where the problem is physically, but a continuity tester has no way to determine that.

Re-terminating the camera end of the cable would be my first step, and I've done, easily, hundreds while on a ladder.

Here's a test I just did;

NO continuity tester receiver outdoors. Only the powered continuity tester indoors. I noticed that the little light for wire #4 barely illuminates with a quick "flash", ONLY when the RJ45 plug from this camera in question is connected. It's very difficult to see because it's so dim. What would this indicate? The flashing also doesn't seem to match the speed of the test light either which is weird.

I can't tell if #1, #2, or #3 are doing the same because unfortunately the light from the testeris somewhat visible. You wouldn't see it otherwise though because obviously when the tester and receiver are working together the signal light illuminates at full brightness.
 
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Deoxit will clean up any corrosion, even that you may not be able to see.
I have used it to solve many mysterious problems with electronic connections over the years.

 
Using a continuity tester with a device plugged into one end is an inconclusive test. The electronics in whatever is plugged in can cause all kinds of false readings as you're seeing.
 
Using a continuity tester with a device plugged into one end is an inconclusive test. The electronics in whatever is plugged in can cause all kinds of false readings as you're seeing.

I should have stated, there is nothing plugged in on the other end, not even a camera. I wouldn't run the tester with a device attached.

I noticed I didn't get a dim flicker on #4 when doing the same test on a 5 foot cable. Only when connected to the CAT6 that was normally connected to this troublesome camera in general.
 
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Then I would say you're seeing short on the cable. It may be "high resistance" but that's a relative term. Just for a laugh I'd re-terminate the far end, and if you have enough slack, cut off about a foot before re-terminating.
 
For cryin' out loud...I could re-terminated both ends of the non-working one plus about 10 more in this time frame! :headbang:
If it doesn't fix it at least you can move on to something else....
 
For cryin' out loud...I could re-terminated both ends of the non-working one plus about 10 more in this time frame! :headbang:
If it doesn't fix it at least you can move on to something else....

Well you're a pro and unfortunately I didn't buy pass-through connectors! Pass-through connectors would be a breeze for getting the right length of wire and cable sheathing!
 
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Well you're a pro and unfortunately I didn't buy pass-through connectors! Pass-through connectors would be a breeze for getting the right length of wire and cable sheathing!
No, I'm not a "pro." And even I have to re-do from time to time.
Can you use ONLY pass-thru's?
I'm just sayin'...time to re-terminate and if that don't fix it, then move on!
 
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There's a simple trick to a "dead front" connector. Strip about an inch of the outer jacket, separate the pairs and snip off the "X" separator. Grab the outer jacket and pull away from the stripped end. Separate the pairs and arrange them. Trim them square, flush cutters work best, to length by using the connector as a length guide. Insert the wires, work the outer jacket back down holding the connector tight against the wire ends until the jacket is under the crimp lug for it. Crimp the end.
 
There's a simple trick to a "dead front" connector. Strip about an inch of the outer jacket, separate the pairs and snip off the "X" separator. Grab the outer jacket and pull away from the stripped end. Separate the pairs and arrange them. Trim them square, flush cutters work best, to length by using the connector as a length guide. Insert the wires, work the outer jacket back down holding the connector tight against the wire ends until the jacket is under the crimp lug for it. Crimp the end.

That's what I do but then generally the outer jacket will slither its way back down like a rubber band. I also have issues with the wires being perfectly long enough so that all 8 hit the end of the plug. And remain in the correct order to boot. I'm a perfectionist as well so that doesn't help things along. With a pass through you'd have slightly more waste but verifying the correct length and order seems like it would be a breeze.
 
It does take practice, no doubt, but I've never had to use a pass through, even with CAT6.
 
OK, well my OCD wouldn't let it wait until tomorrow, I snipped back about 5" and crimped on a new connector at the OUTSIDE END only. Continuity tester still showing all 8 strands correct. Strange thing, when I first flipped the continuity tester on, even the "G" light was illuminating but very faintly, but that doesn't make sense as there are only 8 wires! I'm wondering what that is all about, perhaps a testing device glitch??

I'm conflicted on how to proceed. Do I leave my tester hooked up so I can check it periodically or do I reinstall the camera?
 
Does the camera work when you try it with the new connector?
Curious minds what to know.

I haven't put it up there yet. It's possible it will work for a short while and then cut out again like it did yesterday. Right now I have the continuity tester transmitter and receiver hooked up at both ends.

Don't forget that BOTH cameras were working. The old camera, the B800 was able to be rebooted and then it would work for a few hours before losing signal. The new camera wouldn't reboot, although I have a feeling it may have worked this morning if I would have tried it before removing it. I jumped straight on the roof this morning and took it off because testing continuity of the cable was my next logical step in testing, which also passed before putting on a new connector. I didn't see anything visually wrong with the old plug.

I also didn't replace the indoor plug, as nothing looks wrong inside either.
 
I just checked continuity with my tester before reinstalling the camera - all 8 strands are showing GOOD. Reinstalled the camera. Not even one flash out of the ethernet port's LED at the back of my NVR. Tried various ethernet ports. What gives??? We know yesterday as per my tests that the camera functions just fine when connected to a ~6 foot cable! I am very confused. I'm tempted to reinstall the old camera and see if I can get any signal out of it at all. I didn't ship it back yet for RMA.

I'm not sure what the total length is for this run of CAT6, but I know it's pretty long and it's the longest run I have. I know distance can be an issue with POE but then again I have had uninterrupted functionality with this camera in particular for a year with no issues until now.

I'm also assuming that if there was an internal short in this length of CAT6 that I'd see two LEDs illuminate simultaneously for two strands of wire??
 
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I just checked continuity with my tester before reinstalling the camera - all 8 strands are showing GOOD. Reinstalled the camera. Not even one flash out of the ethernet port's LED at the back of my NVR. Tried various ethernet ports. What gives??? We know yesterday as per my tests that the camera functions just fine when connected to a ~6 foot cable! I am very confused. I'm tempted to reinstall the old camera and see if I can get any signal out of it at all. I didn't ship it back yet for RMA.

I'm not sure what the total length is for this run of CAT6, but I know it's pretty long and it's the longest run I have. I know distance can be an issue with POE but then again I have had uninterrupted functionality with this camera in particular for a year with no issues until now.

I'm also assuming that if there was an internal short in this length of CAT6 that I'd see two LEDs illuminate simultaneously for two strands of wire??

Possible damaged run .. rodents sometimes enough eating cables .. if running outdoors cable sheath can be damaged ..

fwiw - this is why I like N+1+ for my runs ..
 
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Possible damaged run .. rodents sometimes enough eating cables .. if running outdoors cable sheath can be damaged ..

fwiw - this is why I like N+1+ for my runs ..
There's no way rodents could have damaged this cable. It's tucked under my soffit between fascia aluminum and soffit aluminum. Also hidden from UV rays. Where it comes down the siding from the second floor to the basement penetration all 6 wires are housed in PVC conduit.

I also put the older camera up there, nothing as well. What gives? Continuity but no working camera? I didn't mess with anything else with the exception of crimping on a new RJ45 plug at the outside end. Full continuity according to my tester on all 8 wires. Before installing the NEW replacement camera, the old camera would be "woken up" for a few hours by unplugging it.

I also went along the home and took a look at what was visible of the wire, I can't see anything out of the ordinary. I don't see any areas where chafing would be occurring.

Like I said I researched about a hack as not all 4 pairs of wire are utilized by REOLINK cameras. You can swap a damaged pair with a working pair and only use 3 out of the 4 pairs of wires. But I don't have the equipment to determine which pair is to be at fault.

Anyone with the sophisticated tool in Northwest Indiana care to stop by? :)
 
There's no way rodents could have damaged this cable. It's tucked under my soffit between fascia aluminum and soffit aluminum. Also hidden from UV rays. Where it comes down the siding from the second floor to the basement penetration all 6 wires are housed in PVC conduit.

I also put the older camera up there, nothing as well. What gives? Continuity but no working camera? I didn't mess with anything else with the exception of crimping on a new RJ45 plug at the outside end. Full continuity according to my tester on all 8 wires. Before installing the NEW replacement camera, the old camera would be "woken up" for a few hours by unplugging it.

I also went along the home and took a look at what was visible of the wire, I can't see anything out of the ordinary. I don't see any areas where chafing would be occurring.

Like I said I researched about a hack as not all 4 pairs of wire are utilized by REOLINK cameras. You can swap a damaged pair with a working pair and only use 3 out of the 4 pairs of wires. But I don't have the equipment to determine which pair is to be at fault.

Anyone in Northwest Indiana care to stop by? :)

hmmm .. well, looking forward to the answer to this mystery ..
 
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I believe there's a new tester arriving tomorrow for me that should provide a bit more data than just an illuminated series of lights. I'll report back after I connect it later.

s-l500[1].jpg
 
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