I bought a few Linovision PoE extenders and they work fine. However, I really would like to put them behind the wall. That way I only have one CAT5e/6 cable coming out for the second camera. Otherwise I have two cable going into the existing cam (one for the original cable, one for the existing cam but there is only a cut-off for one cable, not two and a third cable for the 2nd cam). I could create a bigger hole to stick this thing up but are there other smaller solutions that don't require two PoE ports on my switch?
PoE Extenders
- Thread starter rfj
- Start date
For clarity, could you provide a sketch of what it is you're wanting to accomplish?
From your description, it's not clear to this old fart.
From your description, it's not clear to this old fart.
^+1
If your junction box is big enough, it should only have one cable coming in from switch and then another cable out to the second camera. And then just a short few inch long cable within the box from the adapter to the 1st camera.
If your junction box is big enough, it should only have one cable coming in from switch and then another cable out to the second camera. And then just a short few inch long cable within the box from the adapter to the 1st camera.
That device isn't in wall rated much less weather rated to endure the extreme temperatures in a attic. As such, should not, and can not, be installed into an enclosed space in the home. Anything electrical that involves the building wall / structure envelope must be accessible and contained in a properly outdoor rated (junction box).
From a practical stand point it would be much harder to access and diagnose future issues given its not visible / accessible. I've installed quite a few of these devices in (none commercial installs) and placed them inside of the camera junction box for the specific cameras. In some instances the entire outside casing was removed to make room and to increase the heat dissipation using 15 (W / mk) thermal pads.
Lastly, should there ever be an electrical fire due to this device. Your home owners insurance will not offer any coverage as this most definitely isn't code compliant or UL / cUL approved equipment.
Attached is an image of my first dual-cam setup. The original cam (which I am going to replace) it the one to the upper right (the dome cam. The Ethernet cable comes is behind the camera (a small hole in the wall). Hence, in the original setup you couldn't see any cable at all. But now that original Ethernet cable is going into the white box. Then another Ethernet cable is going back into the cam. Hence there is one cable coming out from the cam and one going back. Then there is a third cable going to the new cam which you can see in the lower part.
Attachments
That gray box is an AC outlet which I am using for my X-mas display. I am not using the for the cams unless you thing it could be useful. I only have them at a few places, though and those places are not really ideal of cams except for this one particular image.
+1 to posts above by @Teken and @wittaj ;
Those Linovision extenders are purposely sized to go inside a circular electrical box or a camera junction box.
Have you considered which boxes would work with your cam(s) and if the extender would fit inside?
Your existing cams appear to be under a soffit out of direct sun and rain but as mentioned, internal box max temps in the heat of summer should be considered also.
Those Linovision extenders are purposely sized to go inside a circular electrical box or a camera junction box.
Have you considered which boxes would work with your cam(s) and if the extender would fit inside?
Your existing cams appear to be under a soffit out of direct sun and rain but as mentioned, internal box max temps in the heat of summer should be considered also.
tigerwillow1
Known around here
Could you clarify? Does the non-coverage apply only to the device itself, or anything damaged by the fire started by the device? Does it apply to all home insurance policies?
I have not considered junction boxes for my cams but I do use them for lights, Thinking about it, that might be the way to go. Then I can hide the splitter in the junction box and only have one cable coming out for the second cam. I am just not sure if this splitter will really fit into that junction box. I will try it. ..
Huh, did you get spammed... This seems completely off topic...
I'll over generalize as elements are specific to where you live and the building codes that apply. Let's first start off with the basics which is suitability of application. I'll use something people are very familiar with and build up from there to offer more insight and guidance.
Outlet: The average person would think any kind of 120 VAC outlet could be installed outside - wrong. Everyone knows any outside outlet must be GFCI protected either by a breaker / GFCI outlet. Next, said outlet must be Weather Rated (WR) it can't be a regular outlet. While other locations also mandate said outlet be Tamper Proof.
Any outlet that see's extended use must also employ a In Use cover and not the typical spring loaded swinging side door type.
All of the above also mandates the equipment be UL / cUL approved / certified. Obviously, it also calls out said equipment is installed per local building codes such as height, depth, and distance etc.
As it relates to the installing any electrical in a wall anytime there is a break in line. Said break / connection point must be accessible to the end user. Said access must be enclosed in a properly rated enclosure for the environment its intended for say metal vs plastic. Add to this many cities mandate said enclosure use a water proof & weather rated gasket as seen in many outside outlets.
Again, the enclosure is properly UL / cUL rated for the intended purpose . . .
Some may wonder why I called out this one element because people have literally installed cardboard boxes as an Enclosure
So now if a person installed a properly rated enclosure, made it accessible, on paper and by code are we fine to stick that POE Extender up into the attic?!?
No . . .
Why???
Because the literature clearly states the device is Intended to be installed indoors.
Everyone knows when dealing with any insurance company is they will find any reason to deny a claim. The first thing they do is identify root cause for said fire. If they find that POE Extender tucked up and inside of the attic space regardless of the properly rated enclosure. They can quickly Google that device has no safety markings along with the fact its clearly stated by the maker as indoor use.
So, that would be the main driver for any insurance company to deny coverage.
Lastly, depending upon where you live the use of fire retardant foam / blocking is required. Mainly seen separately floors / walls etc.
I don't know about all the electrical stuff but we are in CA, we did a complete remodel, we wanted to have exterior AC outlets and we did go through a complete inspection including the exterior outlets. All of this should be up to code unless both our electrician and inspector failed. I will be looking for those electrical boxes to put the splitters in, though.,
Apologies, my reply was to the other member who asked about why the insurance co would deny a claim. It had nothing to do with your outlet which you presented here. Regardless, if that outlet wasn't there I would have suggested you mount both cameras to a board enclosed in the same soffit material so it would match.
But, in your case the cameras are mounted to the wall and its stucco.
tigerwillow1
Known around here
I guess this is meant for me. I'm not the one who brought it up. A broad claim was made and I'm asking for substantiation. It's widely recommended on IPCT to build one's own cables for connecting cameras. They will not be UL approved, meaning most of us would be not insured for any fire traced to such cables. A pretty important detail IMO.
sebastiantombs
Known around here
Presumably the cable would be UL listed which would satisfy the insurance requirement as long as it was used for its' intended purpose as a signal and low voltage (PoE) cable only. Termination of the cable does not enter into the equation from the insurance viewpoint
+1^^.
CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum) CAT cable is not UL-listed nor is it recommend for any network use but especially not POE.
Use only solid (not stranded) pure copper CAT cable with the jacket rated for its intended use: CMX for outdoor but if needed also insure UV-rated, direct burial or flooded burial for underground or in conduit underground; CMR (Riser) in wall, attics, crawl spaces, ceilings, in-between floors. The more expensive CMP (Plenum) is for just that purpose but can be used in place of CMR if CMR is not available but not vice versa....no CMR where CMP is called for.
CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum) CAT cable is not UL-listed nor is it recommend for any network use but especially not POE.
Use only solid (not stranded) pure copper CAT cable with the jacket rated for its intended use: CMX for outdoor but if needed also insure UV-rated, direct burial or flooded burial for underground or in conduit underground; CMR (Riser) in wall, attics, crawl spaces, ceilings, in-between floors. The more expensive CMP (Plenum) is for just that purpose but can be used in place of CMR if CMR is not available but not vice versa....no CMR where CMP is called for.
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Maybe they are more stringent in Canada LOL.
I am not a fan of insurance and agree with above that they do tend to nickel and dime you and find fault elsewhere, but some things they do cover. If you burn your house down due to careless smoking, they will cover it. If you drive away from the gas pump with the gas nozzle still in your car and pull the pump off, they will cover you (my friend works for Progressive and they said it happens at least once per day in the USA). If your house burns down due to grow lamps for pot, they will cover you. If you finished your basement without permits and the house burns down, they will cover you.
Let's not give insurance companies any more ammo on how/why to deny claims LOL.
I think it would have to be serious, serious infractions before they wouldn't cover it.
I am not a fan of insurance and agree with above that they do tend to nickel and dime you and find fault elsewhere, but some things they do cover. If you burn your house down due to careless smoking, they will cover it. If you drive away from the gas pump with the gas nozzle still in your car and pull the pump off, they will cover you (my friend works for Progressive and they said it happens at least once per day in the USA). If your house burns down due to grow lamps for pot, they will cover you. If you finished your basement without permits and the house burns down, they will cover you.
Let's not give insurance companies any more ammo on how/why to deny claims LOL.
I think it would have to be serious, serious infractions before they wouldn't cover it.
Every location has some kind of standard / code they follow. Whether that standard is current varies with the State / Province. As TonyR noted something as simple as Ethernet cable can impact a pass vs fail as it relates to inspection.
Literally everyday someone is using and installing CCA cable in a wall.
Why?!?
Because they only scratched the surface in terms of asking questions and getting educated.
Take the polar opposite where a person buys all the right material say direct burial cable. Only to turn around and install the same with a 120 VAC line?? Or worse only dropping it into a 4” deep trench???
Just because you have all the correct hardware doesn’t mean there isn’t a fail just around the corner!
All my CAT6 cables behind walls are solid copper cables (23 AWG). Audio cables are 12AWG stranded. Cables for shades are 14/4 stranded plus CAT 6 cables. All are CMR rated. They are made be Belden, i.e. a brand I trust (though kind of expensive). I am not too much worried about those cables. So based on all the input I think I will get some round junction boxes. Then I will put that splitter into the junction box and mount the main camera on that junction box. The second camera will be mounted directly on the soffit. The issue I have is what junction box to get. My wife picked up a couple from HD today but they are 4" but even if they were 4.5" the holes wouldn't match up. Note that I have both HikVision cams and Dahua cams. They have a different screw pattern/size.