Here are some things to consider which assumes a lot which I call BASE 1.
POE: If you are using a name brand POE Switch the output will be reflective of the written specifications. If however this is just some 3rd tier AliExpress special YMMV!
Ethernet: If you’re using real certified CAT-6 23 AWG solid pure copper wiring instead of 24, 26, CCA etc. This Ethernet drop should be dedicated to a single hardware device and the wire should have been tested for throughput, bandwidth, voltage drop / resistance. Never mind the correct CAT-6 RJ45 connector which is properly sealed and lubed with dielectric grease.
Splitters: Is this splitter using a minimum of 16 / 18 AWG wiring instead of the common 24 / 26 AWG?!? As this will increase the voltage drop and resistance.
Active Splitter: Again what type of wire is in use never mind the electronics inside. Which surely is causing a voltage drop due to higher resistance.
IR / Camera: You won’t know the REAL power consumption until you measure each one on a short run! It doesn’t matter what the manual says because it’s made to a dollar value that isn’t going to solid in meeting a energy consumption target.
All of the things stated up top is BASE 1. Now if I was there the first thing I would do is measure everything so you know what the BASE lines are in that specific environment. Go to the POE switch and measure the output on that port is it in fact providing X volts?!? If not that port is damaged assuming all others show a different voltage reading. Keep in mind just because you measure the correct voltage doesn’t mean it’s fine. As every rookie will fall prey to not measuring the actual current (amperage) that port can actually provide!
This is exactly like anyone who measured a car battery and sees the expected voltage. Guess what happens when you place a real load on the battery?!? The battery fails to provide the correct amount of current / ampacity to do any work!
Next, let’s assume you have no clue or don’t have the
tools to measure current on the line. No worries just move to another port and see what happens assuming the PSU isn’t damaged.
Moving down grab the longest 100 - 200 FT (REAL 23 AWG solid copper) cable and connect one single item like the camera. Let it run for an hour than cover the IR so it comes on if it runs fine - move on.
Disconnect the camera and wire up only the Active splitter let it run for an hour. If the camera runs fine connect the IR.
Dollars to donuts you will see a massive voltage drop at the end that is no where close to 12 VDC. Which still means nothing because the current is probably nil.
In the industry we are not allowed to use any type of splitter or active splitter in a commercial installation. As the vast majority do not conform to any UL / cUL testing of conformity. It also introduces another failure point and fire hazard in a enclosed space! Regardless of that if you see a POE splitter that indicates GB support and costs at least $25.XX and above you’re more likely to receive a piece of hardware that has the BASE 1 of wiring size, efficiency, and throughput.
Anything else it’s a gamble because there’s no such thing as a $4.XX active splitter that isn’t using the cheapest materials and ultra thin wiring inside causing all kinds of voltage drop!
Take some measurements with a known length of wire and note the voltage drop with each part added one at a time. Then repeat the same with the current installation in place. This is why when people use 24 AWG instead of 23 AWG solid copper wire adding low quality parts causes endless headaches because the BASE 1 isn’t even present to start with.
Or famously the wire is there but everything else is a cascade of low quality parts with endless high resistance (thin cable) low efficiency, to splitting a single Ethernet cable into 2-3-4-6?!?
I see and read this everyday and just mark the calendar as to when a failure will appear or a fire will ensue!
Good Luck . . .
