Replacing Water Heater Tank in Attic

[97JeepXJ]

In trying to make sure I’m not regurgitating misinformation I’ve come to the conclusion that what I’ve been told may not be correct. Some articles I’ve seen say to face the handle in the direction of flow which after looking at several pictures seems to be the opposite of what I said. The main thing I’ve come across going against what I’ve said would be a valve with a drain port. Which again making assumptions that you want it to be on the “off” side of the valve so you’re able to drain the system after the valve is closed. Of course one of the main deciding factors is making sure the valve can actually be opened and closed without anything in the way of the handle. In conclusion I do believe I was wrong

In this picture the handle would be the opposite of the flow if the drain port is on the “off” side. I’m just confusing myself now

 

[Sybertiger]

In trying to make sure I’m not regurgitating misinformation I’ve come to the conclusion that what I’ve been told may not be correct. Some articles I’ve seen say to face the handle in the direction of flow which after looking at several pictures seems to be the opposite of what I said. The main thing I’ve come across going against what I’ve said would be a valve with a drain port. Which again making assumptions that you want it to be on the “off” side of the valve so you’re able to drain the system after the valve is closed. Of course one of the main deciding factors is making sure the valve can actually be opened and closed without anything in the way of the handle. In conclusion I do believe I was wrong
View attachment 187454
In this picture the handle would be the opposite of the flow if the drain port is on the “off” side. I’m just confusing myself now

Mine doesn't have a bleed valve like the one you posted. It does make sense as you said when you have the bleed valve to have it on the outgoing side. You can see that mine has the handle pointing in the direction that water enters the valve rather than exits. I know that I had put mine this way originally because it was going to interfere with the pressure relief value which was going to be on top. But, you can see I changed my mind and found that the valve could be mounted below and I simply did not change the direction of the valve handle. With those SharkBite connectors it would take me about five minutes to flip it around.

 

[biggen]

11 years in the harsh Aussie sun.
Still looks good.

I can't believe that still works. Tank heaters aren't designed to be out in the elements.

 

[biggen]

In trying to make sure I’m not regurgitating misinformation I’ve come to the conclusion that what I’ve been told may not be correct. Some articles I’ve seen say to face the handle in the direction of flow which after looking at several pictures seems to be the opposite of what I said. The main thing I’ve come across going against what I’ve said would be a valve with a drain port. Which again making assumptions that you want it to be on the “off” side of the valve so you’re able to drain the system after the valve is closed. Of course one of the main deciding factors is making sure the valve can actually be opened and closed without anything in the way of the handle. In conclusion I do believe I was wrong
View attachment 187454
In this picture the handle would be the opposite of the flow if the drain port is on the “off” side. I’m just confusing myself now

If the handle is "inline" it's on. So in your picture above, that flow is going through. If the handle is at a 90 degree angle, then it's closed. At least, that is how every ball valve I've ever seen worked.

 

[Starglow]

I can't believe that still works. Tank heaters aren't designed to be out in the elements.

When I lived in South Florida it was quite common to see water heaters outside either directly exposed to the elements or inside small outdoor enclosures just big enough for the water heater. I'm sure their life expectancy was probably shorter but they were sitting outside none the less.

 

[looktall]

I can't believe that still works. Tank heaters aren't designed to be out in the elements.

They are in Australia.

 

[SJGUSMC21]

Australia is a wonderful place. I was in Fremantle and Perth. EVERYONE was fantastic and super friendly. HOWEVER, if it has wings, no legs, or more then two, RUN!

 

[johnfitz]

@Mike A. - Does that dial phone in the picture, actually work? One of the few that still work in a power outage.

It works... fun to actually "dial" a number once in a while... but it won't work in a power outage as it's not a real land line... its connected to Verizon VOIP.

 

[Oldtechguy66]

I'm in the NC mountains, so NO water lines of any kind in attics here! ... but I have seen them only an hour south of me in SC. NOT fun working in a broiler hot attic in summer.
One thing I've found over the years working in the southern US Appalachian mtns is avoid the use of galvanized pipe like the plague! Whether connecting H20 heaters, or especially around well pump switches and pressure tanks... it WILL accelerate corrosion in the rest of the plumbing wherever there is metal (galvanic reaction), and it occurs rapidly when the H2O pH is below 7 (neutral), and with iron present in the water (it builds plugs pipe fittings). Might get away with it on treated municipal H20, but here in the mtns, well water is usually acidic and has at least some iron. Spring fed sources are often even lower pH and high levels of dissolved iron. Galvanized pipe, even short sections or fittings, will cause problems here in short order. Also, I started using electronic anode rod (cathodic protection) because old style zinc and even aluminum anode rods rapidly degrade, often producing nasty amounts of H2S in the water. Electronic anodes are a bit pricey, but extend the life of the tank substantially in harsh water environments. Where we are, it's common to have extensive H20 filtration systems, & softeners. Don't neglect maintenance if you have them, else you'll be replacing that new H20 heater much sooner than planned. Also, don't forget to check your line pressure frequently, especially on municipal H2O systems. Here in the mtns, it's not uncommon to see city water supply pressure to residences hit 300+ psi at night. Your H20 heater cannot handle that for long. So, most codes require use of a PRV (pressure reducing valve) at the water line entrance to the residence. Our code also now mandates use of pressure relief valves to dump excess pressure in event (when, not if) the PRV fails (and the do fail).
So, got that new H2O heater installed.. but don't forget, there are other items to check in the supply chain. Those often neglected items are the ones usually repsonsible for water heater failures.
Just my 2 cents, YMMV...

 

[SJGUSMC21]

I'm in the NC mountains, so NO water lines of any kind in attics here! ... but I have seen them only an hour south of me in SC. NOT fun working in a broiler hot attic in summer.
One thing I've found over the years working in the southern US Appalachian mtns is avoid the use of galvanized pipe like the plague! Whether connecting H20 heaters, or especially around well pump switches and pressure tanks... it WILL accelerate corrosion in the rest of the plumbing wherever there is metal (galvanic reaction), and it occurs rapidly when the H2O pH is below 7 (neutral), and with iron present in the water (it builds plugs pipe fittings). Might get away with it on treated municipal H20, but here in the mtns, well water is usually acidic and has at least some iron. Spring fed sources are often even lower pH and high levels of dissolved iron. Galvanized pipe, even short sections or fittings, will cause problems here in short order. Also, I started using electronic anode rod (cathodic protection) because old style zinc and even aluminum anode rods rapidly degrade, often producing nasty amounts of H2S in the water. Electronic anodes are a bit pricey, but extend the life of the tank substantially in harsh water environments. Where we are, it's common to have extensive H20 filtration systems, & softeners. Don't neglect maintenance if you have them, else you'll be replacing that new H20 heater much sooner than planned. Also, don't forget to check your line pressure frequently, especially on municipal H2O systems. Here in the mtns, it's not uncommon to see city water supply pressure to residences hit 300+ psi at night. Your H20 heater cannot handle that for long. So, most codes require use of a PRV (pressure reducing valve) at the water line entrance to the residence. Our code also now mandates use of pressure relief valves to dump excess pressure in event (when, not if) the PRV fails (and the do fail).
So, got that new H2O heater installed.. but don't forget, there are other items to check in the supply chain. Those often neglected items are the ones usually repsonsible for water heater failures.
Just my 2 cents, YMMV...

I am ALWAYS willing to listen and learn. First, thank you. Will answer a few items. First, my water pressure is 75. How do I know? I used a water test pressure gauge, mainly to make sure the pressure in my expansion tank was set right. Also, I use a whole house water softener, so the water heater is getting that as well. After I was done, I had our family friend (a certified housing inspector) look at it and passed it with flying colors. I have been up there twice a day to check for leaks and any natural gas smells (also using soapy liquid water) and so far, I am good. I will keep an eye on the galvanized pipe and have started doing a lot of reading on it now. It may get replaced, but not right now. Still physically recovering from it. Thank you very much for posting.

 

[wpiman]

So if you get a water heater that has a 6 year warranty versus a twelve year one, the difference is the 12 has two sacrificial anodes. If you turn off the tank and replace it every 5 years, there is no reason that tank won't last 25 years.

The electronic anodes might even be better, but not sure how long those last... I know they have an LED to show they are working...

 

[juliand]

That's one crazy attic framing job up there.
I guess if you want to save living space for living, you put a.c. units, heaters, out of the way. and, good luck later.

 

[juliand]

So if you get a water heater that has a 6 year warranty versus a twelve year one, the difference is the 12 has two sacrificial anodes. If you turn off the tank and replace it every 5 years, there is no reason that tank won't last 25 years.

The electronic anodes might even be better, but not sure how long those last... I know they have an LED to show they are working...

I put in one of those electric rods "Blue Rod" it's doing its thing pretty good, no more smell either
I have well water and those anodes of old rot away quickly.

Now, if I were Joe, I would sample the water going in to the heater, test for salt, and other impurities. salt and iron kills.
Flushing out your tank is a good thing to do every year or so, its easy to do.

 

[Oldtechguy66]

Conventional anode rods are fine for most, especially on municipal water (treated, pH balanced)... but sometimes well (or spring) water can be high in "clear iron", or even bacterial iron. Elevated magnesium levels will also cause problems. Electronic anode rods use a titanium or other non reactive metal to impart a small electrical charge to protect the metal tank (cathodic protection)... same thing happens using a sacrificial metal such as magnesium, aluminum or similar. The sacrificial metal dissolves, as the name implies, sacrificing itself to protect the metal plumbing components with lower reactivity than the sacrificial metal. The same principle is used on ships. It's an old tried and true technology. The electronic anode protection concept isn't new; been used in industrial applications for a long time - but it's a relative newcomer in the residential plumbing applications. I had to replace the anode rod in one of my new H20 heaters recently after suddenly having high levels of H2S (rotten egg smell) turn up in the water. I was shocked to find how fast the anode rod had degraded after only a year. Installed an electronic anode (titanium electrode), and so far so good. No more black Mg & Mn goo in the water or rotten egg smell... How long will it last? No idea. My guess is the anode power supply will die after a few years, but it has a status LED - so at least I will know if it's off. Without some type of cathodic protection on well water in my area, water heater lifespan is a few years at best. Good idea to check your anode rod periodically if on well water, but few do so.. and with good reason. Those things are TOUGH to remove without a high torque impact gun.

As to the water pressure, I try to keep my water water pressure under 60 psi at all times. Typical residential nominal pressure is 40-50 psi, though well pressure switches can vary much. Most people don't realize PRVs installed on city water supplies to houses eventually fail, and they always fail open. That leaves the house plumbing to see unrestricted street pressures, which can quickly damage water heater tanks & plumbing. Sometimes the glass lining will crack, which isn't noticeable until later... when the glass lining cracks, water contacts the bare steel tank, and rust rapidly eats it away. I believe newer tanks use a polymer coating inside, which will greatly improve on the tank's life span. Expansion tanks are now required by code in most areas in the US, and they are a good idea. Water expands as it heats, and the excess pressure has to go somewhere. The expansion tanks allows that, without undue stress on other plumbing components.

Agree 100% with Juliand, previous post. Test your water, at least to get a baseline. If on city water, it should theoretically be treated/balanced - but there is a huge variation in what is considered acceptable in municipal water quality. Even if the water from treatment plant is great and clean, the transport pipes may be made of cast iron - which degrades, leaving nasty rust particles and dissolved iron to contaminate your plumbing fixtures. That's aggravated by chlorination, which is common.
The 3 biggest things that I find help extend water heater tank life is (1) check and maintain correct water pressure (not too high) and (2) DRAIN and flush the tank as mentioned by Juliand. You would be amazed what collects in the bottom of your tank (it's not pretty!!). (3) install a simple cartridge filter on the main supply line coming into the house. It will preserve the life of all your plumbing devices.
Not a plumber, just my observations in the last 40 yrs of residential construction and maintenance. YMMV

 

[TonyR]

My 15 year old 50 gal. electric water heater went out in '22, I swear it weighed over twice much as it did when new, even after all the water was drained out....it was chock full of various mineral deposits that were so big they would not come out.

 

[Starglow]

My 15 year old 50 gal. electric water heater went out in '22, I swear it weighed over twice much as it did when new, even after all the water was drained out....it was chock full of various mineral deposits that were so big they would not come out.

My city water tap for my home is located at the very end of the water main so I get all of the crap that ends up at the end of the main. A fire hydrant is there that the city uses to flush the main every so often but I have to filter my water and the city does not reimburse any of those costs.

 

[TonyR]

My city water tap for my home is located at the very end of the water main so I get all of the crap that ends up at the end of the main. A fire hydrant is there that the city uses to flush the main every so often but I have to filter my water and the city does not reimburse any of those costs.

Takes me back to '73 and my first new house, a year after I'm out of the service and back in the U.S. of A.

I had tilled the front yard, folded in a soil amendment, seeded, strawed, water and petted it for 2 weeks, had some grass started.

Along comes the county fire, opens the hydrant and instead of uncapping the hydrant on the side to have it hit the street, which was paved and had curb/gutter and storm drains, they uncapped the YARD side...it ran for a few minutes, digging a 2 foot wide by 10 ft. long trench, a foot deep at the start, in my newly planted front yard. I've also seen local fire use a short hose to re-direct the output parallel to the curb and gutter.

To say I was pissed would have been the understatement of the year....I had some words for the chief....it was a VERY one-sided conversation.

 

[Oldtechguy66]

My 15 year old 50 gal. electric water heater went out in '22, I swear it weighed over twice much as it did when new, even after all the water was drained out....it was chock full of various mineral deposits that were so big they would not come out.

I've run into old H2O heaters that wouldn't even flush out the bottom drain while under pressure; so loaded up with mineral deposits & calcified goo. Yep, they weigh a lot more than the new tank... And seems the more full of gunk & heavy they are, the more narrow steep steps there are to the basement where the tank is invariably buried under a ton of junk

 

[johnfitz]

A fire hydrant is there that the city uses to flush the main every so often

The city does that here once in a blue moon... I open that bad boy up every 6 months or so and watch the rust pore out... I don't know if it helps water quality or not though.

 

[Oldtechguy66]

The city does that here once in a blue moon... I open that bad boy up every 6 months or so and watch the rust pore out... I don't know if it helps water quality or not though.

The city water dept does that here too, allegedly on annual basis. First time I saw it, the FD was blocking to the road with nasty brown chunky water gushing into the street. At first I thought they were closing the road for a sewer line break. Nope. They had opened a tap on the large water main to flush it. I realized that when the chlorine odor hit me like a ton of bricks. Made me glad I have my own water system, even with its problems and maintenance. Pay the city for chlorinated rust and sediment from constant breaks in the ancient cast iron pipes. Ehhh, no thanks - I'll keep my well and spring.