A family member has same situation. City water lines constantly breaking, depositing sediment and rust in the water all the time. Filter changes needed often. I installed dual filters for them, one sediment filter, the other activated charcoal to take out the chlorine. Prior to having filters, toilet and sink/shower valves constantly failed due to high levels of sediment eating the valves. But, other problem in this situation is excessive water pressure. There is a high end development several hundred feet higher elevation just down the road. Their water pressure was too low (complaints), so the city in its infinite wisdom simply cranked up the mainline booster pumps several miles before the high end development. So, the big fancy houses have adequate pressure, but everyone below them has faucets dribbling, toilet valves leaking, water heaters failing etc. I've seen the water pressure go over 400 PSI at night. Had to install TWO PRV's in series to knock the pressure down to 45 psi. It was too much drop for a single PRV. Even so, the constant stream of rust and sediment + chlorine in the water eats the valve seats out of the PRVs. They typically last 2-4 years, then it's another $200 a pop to replace them. Does the city reimburse people for the filters and damaged plumbing devices due to the extreme high pressure? Of course not. The problem is only getting worse with large numbers of new homes being tossed up on every square foot available, further straining the already overloaded water system. Replace the lines with larger and more frequent booster pumps with mainline PRVs for low lying areas? Nah, that's the customer's problem.
Replacing Water Heater Tank in Attic
- Thread starter SJGUSMC21
- Start date
A family member has same situation. City water lines constantly breaking, depositing sediment and rust in the water all the time. Filter changes needed often. I installed dual filters for them, one sediment filter, the other activated charcoal to take out the chlorine. Prior to having filters, toilet and sink/shower valves constantly failed due to high levels of sediment eating the valves. But, other problem in this situation is excessive water pressure. There is a high end development several hundred feet higher elevation just down the road. Their water pressure was too low (complaints), so the city in its infinite wisdom simply cranked up the mainline booster pumps several miles before the high end development. So, the big fancy houses have adequate pressure, but everyone below them has faucets dribbling, toilet valves leaking, water heaters failing etc. I've seen the water pressure go over 400 PSI at night. Had to install TWO PRV's in series to knock the pressure down to 45 psi. It was too much drop for a single PRV. Even so, the constant stream of rust and sediment + chlorine in the water eats the valve seats out of the PRVs. They typically last 2-4 years, then it's another $200 a pop to replace them. Does the city reimburse people for the filters and damaged plumbing devices due to the extreme high pressure? Of course not. The problem is only getting worse with large numbers of new homes being tossed up on every square foot available, further straining the already overloaded water system. Replace the lines with larger and more frequent booster pumps with mainline PRVs for low lying areas? Nah, that's the customer's problem.
From my subdivision's FB page tonight:
"Anyone else on XYZ Street have nasty smelling water tonight? Ours smells like old fish and poop! It’s disgusting!!!!!"
"Anyone else on XYZ Street have nasty smelling water tonight? Ours smells like old fish and poop! It’s disgusting!!!!!"
Starglow
Getting comfortable
It took me three years of fighting to get the city to replace the deteriorating galvanized pipe water main on my street which did help reduce the sediment and brown water issues but our main still gets crap from older galvanized pipe mains connected to it that have not been replaced. My water pressure is actually on the low side since every house upstream of mine gets their water supply before I do so two people could never take a shower at the same time because it would only be a trickle of water coming out of the shower heads. I've seen these new fancy multi-head showers in nice homes but there's no way that setup would ever work in mine.
Somebody in our neighborhood group chat asked about brown water coming out the other day. I said I haven’t noticed it but I’d recommend installing some filters
Starglow
Getting comfortable
That left side filter is pretty nasty depending on how long it was in service before it was changed. My unfiltered tap water was that color before the city replaced the old galvanized pipe water main on my street. Now I'm starting the have bad flashback memories of those days.
It was probably over a year, I think I managed to get them changed before 1.5 years when I would prefer to be in the 6-9 month range. At least before the charcoal filter shows any signs of sediment
Last edited:
As an Amazon Associate IPCamTalk earns from qualifying purchases.
Starglow
Getting comfortable
My whole house filter canister is see through so I can look at the filter condition without removing it and I replace it about every six months. I was using the white sediment filters there but upon the recommendation of my water treatment company changed over to a charcoal filter that also filters sediment so it's the best of both worlds. The whole house filter is the first line of defense and then it feeds into a much larger filtering medium tank similar to a water softener and it self cleans after so many gallons of water pass through. Then under the kitchen sink I have a reverse osmosis system and it has five filters on it, so the water we drink has been filtered seven times before we drink it. The city would test my water taken from an outside spigot whenever they came out to flush the main and I had to tell them it's filtered so they probably won't detect any chlorine in the water sample and will do a double take. The EPA requires the city filter out the chlorine when they flush the main, but I can wash my car and the water ends up in the same place. 
The EPA requires the city filter out the chlorine when they flush the main, but I can wash my car and the water ends up in the same place. Funny, they crank up the chlorination levels in our area when flushing lines... presumably anticipating dislodging some nasties, and wanting to ensure no bacteria survive to make it into homes. The FD here just opens the hydrants onto the streets, where the water drains into storm drains, which of course go straight into waterways (stormwater not allowed in sewers here). Guess the assumption is most of the Cl evaporates before it makes it into the rivers.
Also have a R/O system for drinking water. Love it. Same deal, 5 filters on the R/O system, plus primary and secondary sediment filters, but also air injection/settling (Fe/Mn/H2S redux), pH mitigation, and softener system. Lot to keep up, but if you want clean water, it's going to cost money or time - or both. Just happy to be somewhere that has abundant water, not in arid areas where it costs a fortune for very small amounts.
Also have a R/O system for drinking water. Love it. Same deal, 5 filters on the R/O system, plus primary and secondary sediment filters, but also air injection/settling (Fe/Mn/H2S redux), pH mitigation, and softener system. Lot to keep up, but if you want clean water, it's going to cost money or time - or both. Just happy to be somewhere that has abundant water, not in arid areas where it costs a fortune for very small amounts.
mat200
IPCT Contributor
- Jan 17, 2017
- 15,389
- 25,938
Broachoski
Getting comfortable
Very creative installation...at least it's not a natural gas water heater.
I’ve seen quite a few water heaters laying on their side and a few that look like they may have been dropped too. Not a single one was still in service by that point
Wow, at least it has a clever wood chock block at top to keep it from rolling away. Looks like 2x6 rafter framing, 24" OC... wonder how well it held up a 400+ lb tank? Wonder how well the UPPER and LOWER thermostats worked, in horizontal position... and heat tapes on CPVC. Hmmm
Very creative installation...at least it's not a natural gas water heater.
That picture makes me feel 100% confident on my job!
Starglow
Getting comfortable
I wouldn't be able to sleep at night if that was in my house. What could possibly go wrong....let me count the ways.
My stepson was in the process of buying a decent, 20 year old single-story, 3 BR house that was on a slab, all pipes in the attic, during Nov. '22.I wouldn't be able to sleep at night if that was in my house. What could possibly go wrong....let me count the ways.
House was vacant, no power or heat, temps dropped to 4.8° F on Dec. 23 and 5.2° F on the 24th.
Pipes in attic froze and busted, flooded attic and was 2 foot deep at floor level in entire house.
Not sure why the water was not turned off like the power was.
It took 4 months to replace all the ceiling and wall sheetrock, cabinets, carpet and padding that was affected.
It was all done at the owner's expense (the realtor was handling for an out-of-state client and dropped the ball big time, IMO ).
He got moved in June of '23, all OK but some folks learned a big lesson.
looney2ns
IPCT Contributor
I have 3 family members, in 3 different house's that has the HVAC and Water Heater in the attic.
Each one of them has had water disasters from such arrangements.
1-was the HVAC condensate drain was stopped up, resulted in the entire ceiling falling in from water, damaged laminate floors and furniture below.
2-Water heaters started leaking, and the catch pan drain was plugged up with dirt, more ceiling, furniture and wood floors damaged.
Moral of the story, if you MUST have mechanical equipment in the attic. Do not neglect proper normal regular maintenance on a routine basis.
Each one of them has had water disasters from such arrangements.
1-was the HVAC condensate drain was stopped up, resulted in the entire ceiling falling in from water, damaged laminate floors and furniture below.
2-Water heaters started leaking, and the catch pan drain was plugged up with dirt, more ceiling, furniture and wood floors damaged.
Moral of the story, if you MUST have mechanical equipment in the attic. Do not neglect proper normal regular maintenance on a routine basis.
Over here, years ago, the HVAC condensate drain in the attic clogged up... not major damage but had to redo a bit of sheetrock downstairs... been careful since then
We moved in our house 15 years ago, wife’s grandparents farm. House was built in the early 1900’s. The water heater was electric, my wife’s grandpa said it was the first water heater that was installed in our county. It still worked when we bought the place.
Before we moved in I updated the heater. When I went to pull the old one out I quickly determined that it wasn’t coming “out.” Just getting relocated. It is still sitting in my basement. The only way that thing will be “coming out, is by digging a hole alongside our foundation, knocking a wall out and a bunch of rigging. (In the north, our water heaters are in the basement.)
Before we moved in I updated the heater. When I went to pull the old one out I quickly determined that it wasn’t coming “out.” Just getting relocated. It is still sitting in my basement. The only way that thing will be “coming out, is by digging a hole alongside our foundation, knocking a wall out and a bunch of rigging. (In the north, our water heaters are in the basement.)
Seen that happen many times. Usually it's mice dragging insulation into the drip pan, which flows into the drain, plugging it.. or the condensate pump fails for whatever reason. What amazes me is how many drip pan float switches that are not connected, and somehow the inspector misses it. Often, the switch wiring is just hanging loose; not connected. In our area, code requires the float switch to act as a kill switch to the AC if the pan fills up. Sometimes the float switch or wiring fails (critters chewing or corrosion), but most I've seen were never connected. The inspectors here will fail an AC air handler for not having 2 AC condensor pan drain lines, but seem to ignore the drip/overflow pan float switch being disconnected.Over here, years ago, the HVAC condensate drain in the attic clogged up... not major damage but had to redo a bit of sheetrock downstairs... been careful since then
Most common issue I see with AC air handler condensate drains is the condensor drain pipe trap plugging with mold during summer. Usually, there is a short section of PVC pipe stuck but not glued to a Tee at the "P trap". That's there so the short stub piece can be popped loose, inspected and any clog cleared. I pour a few ounces of bleach water solution down the trap a couple times each summer to kill any mold accumulating in the condensate drain.