kc8tmv
Getting the hang of it
Is it documented in Blue Iris for this situation? Or would someone be kind enough to provide a quick screen shot of it's settings in BI? If nothing else to ease my fears!
Review-Dahua/EmpireTech Dual lens IPC-HDBW5441F-AS-E2 (The Boobie Cam Upgrade)
- Thread starter looney2ns
- Start date
Is it documented in Blue Iris for this situation? Or would someone be kind enough to provide a quick screen shot of it's settings in BI? If nothing else to ease my fears!
I have two of these cameras (the old version) and it is simple.
You simply add the camera like you would any other camera. Type in IP address, user and password and find/inspect and let BI do it's thing.
Then about half way down under the main/sub stream drop downs is the Camera number option. It defaults as camera 1, so when you add it a second time change to camera #2. Then you have both in BI.
You simply add the camera like you would any other camera. Type in IP address, user and password and find/inspect and let BI do it's thing.
Then about half way down under the main/sub stream drop downs is the Camera number option. It defaults as camera 1, so when you add it a second time change to camera #2. Then you have both in BI.
Hey guys This model will be replace the 2mp one from Dec, the 2mp is end of life because of the chips run out.
Hey Guys, I just picked up this cam from Andy's Amazon store and having trouble viewing both channels on a NVR5208-8P. I can see both channels listed in my Camera/Remote top box however, it shows channel 1 in port 3 but 2 is 37777. All 8 channels are used, do I need to have a open channel? Appreciate any help, thanks!
@slowhand23 - the NVR can only accept as many cameras as it is rated for. Since you have an 8 port NVR, if all 8 ports are taken, then you cannot see 9 cameras. This cameras counts as two cameras even though it is only "one" camera.
kc8tmv
Getting the hang of it
Just an FYI / Update, the new "Boobie-Cam" came a few days back and finally got a chance to get it configured and put up. So far I am loving it! Can't wait to see that it looks like in low light this evening!
Anyone have any tips, tricks or suggested settings for night low light?
Anyone have any tips, tricks or suggested settings for night low light?
Awesome - you will love it!
You need to dial the camera in to your field of view. Staying on auto/default will never result in acceptable performance, especially at night. Ghost and blur is common with auto/default settings.
In my opinion, shutter (exposure) and gain are the two most important and then base the others off of it. Shutter is more important than FPS. It is the shutter speed that prevents motion blur, not FPS. 15 FPS is more than enough for surveillance cameras as we are not producing Hollywood movies. Match iframes to FPS. 15FPS is all that is usually needed.
Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.
But first, run H264, smart codec off, CBR, and 8192 bitrate to start.
Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-30 (day)for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared.
Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night image results in Casper during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?
So if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 16.67ms (but certainly not above 30ms) as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter.
You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image.
You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.
But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.
Do not use backlight features until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. And if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible.
After every setting adjustment, have someone walk around outside and see if you can freeze-frame to get a clean image. If not, keep changing until you do. Clean motion pictures are what we are after, not a clean static image.
You need to dial the camera in to your field of view. Staying on auto/default will never result in acceptable performance, especially at night. Ghost and blur is common with auto/default settings.
In my opinion, shutter (exposure) and gain are the two most important and then base the others off of it. Shutter is more important than FPS. It is the shutter speed that prevents motion blur, not FPS. 15 FPS is more than enough for surveillance cameras as we are not producing Hollywood movies. Match iframes to FPS. 15FPS is all that is usually needed.
Many people do not realize there is manual shutter that lets you adjust shutter and gain and a shutter priority that only lets you adjust shutter speed but not gain. The higher the gain, the bigger the noise and see-through ghosting start to appear because the noise is amplified. Most people select shutter priority and run a faster shutter than they should because it is likely being done at 100 gain, so it is actually defeating their purpose of a faster shutter.
But first, run H264, smart codec off, CBR, and 8192 bitrate to start.
Go into shutter settings and change to manual shutter and start with custom shutter as ms and change to 0-8.3ms and gain 0-50 (night) and 0-30 (day)for starters. Auto could have a shutter speed of 100ms or more with a gain at 100 and shutter priority could result in gain up at 100 which will contribute to significant ghosting and that blinding white you will get from the infrared.
Now what you will notice immediately at night is that your image gets A LOT darker. That faster the shutter, the more light that is needed. But it is a balance. The nice bright night image results in Casper during motion LOL. What do we want, a nice static image or a clean image when there is motion introduced to the scene?
So if it is too dark, then start adding ms to the time. Go to 10ms, 12ms, etc. until you find what you feel is acceptable as an image. Then have someone walk around and see if you can get a clean shot. Try not to go above 16.67ms (but certainly not above 30ms) as that tends to be the point where blur starts to occur. Conversely, if it is still bright, then drop down in time to get a faster shutter.
You can also adjust brightness and contrast to improve the image.
You can also add some gain to brighten the image - but the higher the gain, the more ghosting you get. Some cameras can go to 70 or so before it is an issue and some can't go over 50.
But adjusting those two settings will have the biggest impact. The next one is noise reduction. Want to keep that as low as possible. Depending on the amount of light you have, you might be able to get down to 40 or so at night (again camera dependent) and 20-30 during the day, but take it as low as you can before it gets too noisy. Again this one is a balance as well. Too smooth and no noise can result in soft images and contribute to blur.
Do not use backlight features until you have exhausted every other parameter setting. And if you do have to use backlight, take it down as low as possible.
After every setting adjustment, have someone walk around outside and see if you can freeze-frame to get a clean image. If not, keep changing until you do. Clean motion pictures are what we are after, not a clean static image.
dok0619
Getting comfortable
From the spec on page 1:
Need to supply own mic and speaker but appears to be supported.
dok0619
Getting comfortable
Supports...but not included....would like to see this model with it already integrated like some other cams....
I am looking to get this camera but thinking will the dual cams work on a single feed? I am using Milestone Essental that has a max cam recording limit of 8 and i only have 1 spot left. Had anyone worked with this? Thanks!
It is considered two cameras for purposes of VMS whether it is an NVR, Blue Iris, or some other platform.
Got it thank you; by any chance do you know if a cam where it can be treated as a single cam but it can have a wide angle?
I am trying to knock both these sections off with a single instead of having 1
Thanks, can a be mounted on a ceiling and be able to capture the front driveway and porch like this? Also would a fisheye be 1 VMS feed?
Slightly off topic but somewhat related; I read some comments earlier in the thread that have me wondering, is Dahua discontinuing ALL 2MP cams, or just this "boobie" cam?
I ask because after a long hiatus and a need/desire to finally install the new 2MP cams I bought from Andy in Jan. 2020, I have them up and initialized/prelim. setup locations, and the nighttime performance is unbelievable, I'm astounded with the Starlights. I read that 4MP require more light than 2MP, and I'm already borderline in some areas...one area I had to force night color.
Please tell me the 2MP eyeballs aren't going extinct (that is, if they haven't already).
Thanks.
I ask because after a long hiatus and a need/desire to finally install the new 2MP cams I bought from Andy in Jan. 2020, I have them up and initialized/prelim. setup locations, and the nighttime performance is unbelievable, I'm astounded with the Starlights. I read that 4MP require more light than 2MP, and I'm already borderline in some areas...one area I had to force night color.
Please tell me the 2MP eyeballs aren't going extinct (that is, if they haven't already).
Thanks.
YES, the 2mp boobie is end of life beause of the Chips lack off. Those 2mp you bought still working bit good for most of our customers.
For 2mp you still can refer to the IPC-T2231T-ZS and IPC-T3241T-ZAS, these 2 models are still working good.